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I’m not all that happy with the temp difference in liquid cooling.

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#1
Hi guys I recently just got my liquid cooling up and running and I’m not all that impressed with my results so far. I’m using all swiftech parts except for the reservoir, here are a list of the parts I am using for my liquid cooling.

MCR120 "Quiet Power" series Radiators with 120mm fan.
MCP350 Pump.
APOGEE Extreme duty universal water block.
Primo chill reservoir and 3/8 tubing
Redline water wetter mixed with distilled water.

My currant temps are 45c idle and 53c max load, with my Zelman CNPS9500 I was at about 48c idle and about 57 to 58 max load,my AMD San Diego core is running at 2.71 Ghz sadly I can’t do any better on liquid. When I touch the rad it’s barely luke warm, I have all the tubing routed as it should be just like swiftech recommends. I was just hoping for a much better drop in temps then what I’m getting, do these temps sound rite? I have tried just about everything the water is flowing really strong.

There is only one other thing I can think of. I have my radiator mounted at the back of my case with the barbs at the bottom, on swiftechs site it says that these rads have a Patent-pending Self purging plenum chambers design when installed upright or on its side. So I’m wondering if maybe the rad is trapping air in it because I have it mounted upside down. I called swiftech and they said it should work fine the way I have it but I still wonder if air is getting trapped in it.
 
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Wile E

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#2
It should drop a few more degrees when the paste cures. What type of fan are you using, what's it's specs? Is it the stock fan in the H2O 120 Premium kit? This rad responds better to higher flow fans.

And just to make sure, your loop should go pump>cpu block>rad>res>pump.

One other thing to check, make 100% sure that the block is laying perfectly flat. I had mine tightened more on one side than the other once, and my temps were way up, because it wasn't making good contact.

I have my X2 6000+ hitting 49c under load @ 3.5Ghz 1.65v with the same exact kit(except the res), and my AS5 isn't near cured yet.
 
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#3
The fan I’m using is really beefy, it’s a 120 mm dual ball bearing 85 CFM fan. I should also let you guys know that I did remove HIS from my CPU which did help temps when I was on air cooling. I checked the contact on the block to CPU and it’s a good as it can get.

And just to make sure, your loop should go pump>cpu block>rad>res>pump.
That’s how I have it.
 
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#4
(Wile E) Seeing as you have the same kit minus the reservoir you’re the perfect one to answer this, how warm is your radiator? Mine is only luke warm and the air coming from it is barely warm at all :wtf:.
 

Wile E

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#5
Yeah, they don't get all that warm to the touch.

Maybe your block needs lapping?
 
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#6
as good as you can get, but is it good enuff? I had to alter my retention bracked when fitting my pelt water block to my naked opty. otherwise the temps were WAY high, now at around 3ghz im sitting a nice -14C idle :)

Have you considered the possiblility of either another rad in the loop or slowing the flow rate down? do you have a controller on your pump?
 
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#7
you may need to shave some plastic off the retention bracked to make the best contact you can, just "looking" like its making contact aint good enuff
 

Wile E

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#8
as good as you can get, but is it good enuff? I had to alter my retention bracked when fitting my pelt water block to my naked opty. otherwise the temps were WAY high, now at around 3ghz im sitting a nice -14C idle :)

Have you considered the possiblility of either another rad in the loop or slowing the flow rate down? do you have a controller on your pump?
After I got my 2900, I couldn't use my chipset block, but out of sheer laziness, I left it in the loop. :roll: After I removed it, my temps dropped a degree or 2, so I don't think flow is an issue.
 
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#9
you may need to shave some plastic off the retention bracked to make the best contact you can, just "looking" like its making contact aint good enuff
AH you may be on to something :D, are you talking about the white plastic retainer that holds the CPU? If so I can see your point, my Apogee water block is touching it however when I take the water block off there is a perfect square of thermal paste.
 

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#10
AH you may be on to something :D, are you talking about the white plastic retainer that holds the CPU? If so I can see your point, my Apogee water block is touching it however when I take the water block off there is a perfect square of thermal paste.
You got pics of the mobo and brackets you're using?
 
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#11
You got pics of the mobo and brackets you're using?
Yep here is a pick of the block, for 939 pin CPU’s only two screws are used to screw into the plate behind the mobo.



I have both side panels off and the wiring is a bit messy I’m still not done with it.
 
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#12
AH you may be on to something :D, are you talking about the white plastic retainer that holds the CPU? If so I can see your point, my Apogee water block is touching it however when I take the water block off there is a perfect square of thermal paste.
yes, im talking about the plastic retainer/retention mechanism, you will need to remove around 3mm worth of plastic from the inner plastic lips or from any waterblock spacers u may be using, thats wot i had to do to get a solid connection between the waterblock and the cpu die
 
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#13
are there plastic "tube" spacers on those retention screws? or does the base of the block sit on the inner plastic lips of the retention bracket? if so, the equivalent of 3mm will need to be removed for a naked die, if removing fromt he retention bracket you can either:

1) remove the lips entirely (not reccomended) tho ive also done this

2) shave 3mm off the base of the bracket (easier and safer depending on whether any mobo components may be effected by the lower bracket)

3)cut 3mm from the plastic waterblock spacers to allow a tighter screwing down and better contact (works only of the base of the waterblock DOES NOT sit on the inner retention lips)

i suspect that only the thermal paste (possibly) is making enuff contact, coz 3mm is alot of space to fill, and 3mm is the thickness of your original IHS that sat on the die, you may have tightened to over 2mm more, but theres still a possibility that theres space between the die and block
 
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#14
yes, im talking about the plastic retainer/retention mechanism, you will need to remove around 3mm worth of plastic from the inner plastic lips or from any waterblock spacers u may be using, thats wot i had to do to get a solid connection between the waterblock and the cpu die
No sh!t :eek: What did you use to remove 3mm of the plastic with? Or did you just remove some material off the water block? Wow using a dermal on that would be a bit scary lol I would definitely take my mobo out for that.
 
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#15
No sh!t :eek: What did you use to remove 3mm of the plastic with? Or did you just remove some material off the water block? Wow using a dermal on that would be a bit scary lol I would definitely take my mobo out for that.
i used a file to shave it off, and also used a cutting drill bit to take the inner lip away (i did order a replacement bracket "just in case" )

a flamed hot stanly knife also works
 
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#16
are there plastic "tube" spacers on those retention screws?
The kit came with plastic "tube" spacers but seeing as I removed the HIS I couldn’t use them. :confused:
 
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#17
The kit came with plastic "tube" spacers but seeing as I removed the HIS I couldn’t use them. :confused:
ahh, kk. well they were just there to ensure that only a specific amount of pressure was applied to the ihs of a proc, so probs ok that u didnt use them, just be careful if u shave off 3mm from the bracket incase u overtighten, but you can reapply the spacers just have them 3mm shorter,

also, soz if you are totally aware of this but, once u have the ability for correct contact, be very very slow, and tighten tach side alternatly with the same turn etc, till you feel it tight, but not too tight, just so u have even pressure applied while tightening onto the naked die, would be a horror to hear a "crack" as you chip one side :(
 
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#18
ahh, kk. well they were just there to ensure that only a specific amount of pressure was applied to the ihs of a proc, so probs ok that u didnt use them, just be careful if u shave off 3mm from the bracket incase u overtighten, but you can reapply the spacers just have them 3mm shorter
Ok I think I’m seeing the light now lol, I see what you mean about the tube spacers needing 3mm cut off them OR the base plate tabs needing 3mm cut off them. I also realize that these are used basically so that even pressure is applied over the CPU. I did do my best to tighten the screws evenly counting the number of turns.

The only other thing I can think of is that the 939 pin white bracket is keeping the water block from making good enough contact (even though there is a perfect square of thermal paste).
So how much material would I need to shave off the white bracket? It looks like just the one lip might in the way.
 
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#19
Her is a picture of the spot that is touching the water block, can these retainers be removed?



Thanks for the help guys, this site RULES :rockout:
 
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#20
wait..... is that the cpu socket you are showing???
 
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#21
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#22
dont touch the white socket, i was on about the retention bracket used on the mobo for fixing heatsinks, that needs to be modified, but are you even using one? coz the cpu cant possibly b lower than the socket, so you should have no problems making correct contact??
 
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#23
Hmm, having a rad inside your case usually doesn't do well with lowering temps. This is because it's either sucking in air from the inside your case through the fins and out the back or is trying to suck cooler air in from the fins which is constricted by the perforated holes on the case itself. I also see that your video card's HSF is designed to blow hot air inside your case. If your fan is sucking air from inside your case with hot air from your video card (and other hot components) your fan may not be cooling the liquid as it passes through the fins. Is it possible for you to remove the rad/fan set up and lay it to the side (outside the case) and see if you notice any difference in temps?
 
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#24
2003CRF450GUY,
Your temps are almost 20ºC too high for a 2.7GHz single core A64.
Something is definately wrong in your loop. Better pull it apart again and rebuild.
 
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Cooling CM v10
Memory Corsair 3 x 2GB TR3X6G1866C9DF
Video Card(s) Nvidia XFX 8800GT Stock
Storage Seagate ST3500320AS, 2 x Samsung HD103UJ
Display(s) 2408WFP
Case Corsair 800D
Power Supply Corsair HX750W
#25
I have an 3700+ San Diego, which usually tops 35 under load =/. Im using a TT Bigwater 745 kit with only one radiator. My cpu is OC to 2.8ghz. I have also noticed that your rams are on one side are they dual channel?