IF 1800+3600CL15 or IF 1900+3800CL1x ?

[Deleted member 205776]

So my awesome +300$-super-duper-board decided to wipe ram changes i did (timings for 3800),
and i had to redo everything.

Gigabyte?

You're lucky. My Gigabyte board wiped the entire BIOS requiring a RMA after a DRAM timing change. Never again.

 

[Zach_01]

That’s why BIOS flashback buttons exist. With that you can flash it even if BIOS is corrupted.
Also, after any significant BIOS settings changes it’s better to save the configuration profile to a usb drive and not on BIOS profile slots. In case you have to reflash it (with same version).

 

[Deleted member 205776]

That’s why BIOS flashback buttons exist. With that you can flash it even if BIOS is corrupted.
Also, after any significant BIOS settings changes it’s better to save the configuration profile to a usb drive and not on BIOS profile slots. In case you have to reflash it (with same version).

Except it didn't work in my case. The board was done for. I did it correctly.

 

[Waldorf]

@Zach_01
i can only speak for the x570 i have now (i never cared about Gb, since they never matched specs/features of asus or msi at same price level), never again.
When you have qvl ram (tried 2 different kits) that doesnt even post at jedec settings/voltage on a +300$ board, while it works on all other boards i tried incl a 150$ msi, or wfi/bt turned off when you enable Erp, is a joke.

On 50 (personal) builds in the past 20y, never had issues with ram not even doing post.

So while this is no "proof" compared to planet wide sales, when others do a decent job at half the cost, im done with Gb.

 

[Zach_01]

Except it didn't work in my case. The board was done for. I did it correctly.

I think I remember your case. You did tried to reflash it with GB Q-Flash Plus button, but you forgot to rename the BIOS file to the proper format?

@Zach_01
i can only speak for the x570 i have now (i never cared about Gb, since they never matched specs/features of asus or msi at same price level), never again.
When you have qvl ram (tried 2 different kits) that doesnt even post at jedec settings/voltage on a +300$ board, while it works on all other boards i tried incl a 150$ msi, or wfi/bt turned off when you enable Erp, is a joke.

On 50 (personal) builds in the past 20y, never had issues with ram not even doing post.

So while this no "proof" compared to planet wide sales, when others do a decent job at half the cost, im done with Gb.

I have X570 AorusPro and on first months I had to reflash it a few times with QFlash Plus after messing around with DRAM, UCLK, FCLK speeds and settings.
The last 12+months though it’s been pretty solid and never had to use Q-Flash again, no matter how damp or crazy me settings were.
Does your board have dual BIOS? I guess it does since it’s right above my Pro in the GB X570 stack. So having dual BIOS with out switches (like mine) to be able to control which one the board loads things can get tricky. Probably your settings wasn’t stable enough and on a cold boot(?) the board decided to load the secondary BIOS, the unconfigured one.
Does that even had the same BIOS version?

 

[Waldorf]

never had issues on flashing/updates/dual chip. its Gb that messed up basically most of those without the switch.
aside that, things like ErP is disabling wifi, no waking up possible, until you clear cmos, and not the only issue.
just not acceptable for 300$, nor when i see that sub 200$ i used for others do fine and bios is nicer as well.

 

[oobymach]

Whats the best way to check IF/Bus stability?
Been messing with "tweaking/ocing" for years, but that was mainly cpu/gpu/ram clocks..

IF is optimal when it's half your ram speed, don't know much more about it, best way to see if it's stable imo is P95, I only ever run it for like 2-20 minutes, and you should underclock your cpu to test IF with P95 so it won't get as hot. You can crank IF up independently of your ram speed in bios and when it stops booting that's your limit.

I love that my mobo has a bios reset button on the back, when I can't boot because of my settings I hit a button and I can boot again. Never had any issues saving oc profiles or messing with timings or voltages. It should be you get what you pay for but a lot of new tech is untested *cough ryzen 5000* and sometimes it takes time for a bios that works properly.

Have you done bios update on your board?

 

[Waldorf]

sorry, but just because it boots with a certain if clock, doesn't mean much.
i can boot 2100, yet 1900 is barely stable

 

[freeagent]

Many different people have many different ideas of what is stable. Interesting.

I think mine is fully stable at 1900. That's ok..

Edit:

1833 with 4 sticks..

 

[phanbuey]

stable is 1) it passes a ton of stress testing and
2) it's smooth

Some ram settings will net the best 'numbers' in benchmarks but feel like crap and stutter in games. Anyone who has geeked out into ram tuning for an unreasonably long amount of time knows what I'm talking about.

 

[oobymach]

sorry, but just because it boots with a certain if clock, doesn't mean much.
i can boot 2100, yet 1900 is barely stable

It is a 5000 series so 1900-2000 should be possible with a current bios but are not guaranteed. If 1900 is "barely" stable try for 1866. I'm running at 1800, 1866 is barely stable because I get a weird audio pop every once in a while while listening to music or video and doing other things like browsing which is unacceptable. Is your bios the 1.2.0.0 or newer? The 1.2 fixes the cache issue on the 5000 chips.

 

[Waldorf]

thanks, but might want to read title/question again.
only want to use 1800 AND 1900 IF/ram, as i have timings for those clocks, and unless someone does it for me, wont go thru ram testing again.
and just because its a 5xxx series doesn't mean it will go above 1800.
out of four 5800, only one did, no matter board or bios or clocks it can reach (or voltage used).

outside that recommending down volting without having looked at actual cpu "data" is not a good idea.
the worst clocking one was already getting whea on -20, and would bsod with - 25, so yeah...