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I'm a stupid . Bent CPU pins

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Well I've decided to change my thermal paste with a better one so I tried to remove the heatsink carefully (in my opinion), by turning slightly right and left couple of times after which time I pull the heatsink completely. Then I immediately realized that my 3900x came with its cooler without turning off the cpu lock.

After fixing with a blade, here is what I see from bottom:

It is thankfully working now, but how can I trust it now? I really don't think AMD will ever RMA this but what do you suggest to me? Change the cpu?
 

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95Viper

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You are not stupid... that has happened to a lot of people, even those who are *so-called professionals.
After a quick look at the pics, I don't see anything wrong with the pins.
 
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I think it would wrong to try and RMA it.

That said, maybe just my tired old eyes, but, like 95Viper, I don't see anything alarming in your pics. If none of the pins broke when bent or when straightening, AND if you took due care to prevent zapping the CPU with static while handling it, it should be fine.

I wonder why you tried to replace the TIM (thermal interface material) in the first place? Typically, there is no good reason to replace it, unless the cured bond was broken. And that does not happen except through abuse (computer was bounced around during shipping) or if the user twists the cooler.

By far, in the vast majority of cases, replacing the TIM only yields a few degrees improvement in cooling. And if the temps are so high the CPU "needs" those few degrees to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, there are other much more urgent cooling issues to deal with first - like case cooling or a failing fan or improper clocking. There is no need to replace TIM just because it is X number of years old, or even if dried out. The solids that are left behind are still there doing their job.

It is important the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal to metal contact of the mating surfaces. And to remember the purpose of TIM is to fill only the microscopic pits and valleys in those mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that may get trapped within. And the only reason TIM comes in a liquified form is so it can be squeezed out of the tube and spread around - as thin as possible.
how can I trust it now?
Only one way that I know of - try and see.

Oh, and making a stupid mistake does not mean someone is stupid. Now if you do again, that's another story! ;)
 
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I bent some pins on the second-hand 5800X I bought the other day, while cleaning it prior to installing it - one of the cotton buds I was using snagged on a couple of pins and I pulled without thinking. I cursed at my idiocy, then shrugged, bent the pins back and installed the CPU, which is powering the machine I'm typing this on. I don't expect I'll ever have any trouble with it, and likely neither will you. As long as the pin isn't broken right off, it's good (and if it's a ground pin you might still be good).

This, BTW, is why I prefer PGA over LGA. Bending pins on a PGA CPU is a non-event because you can easily bend them back; bending those bloody contacts in an LGA socket is generally a death sentence for a motherboard because it's well-nigh impossible for the average user to correct them. When you are a clumsy sod like me who knows you're going to fuck something up, the thought of LGA is a terrifying one.
 
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wish i had a quid every time ive bent a pin id be a rich cat :) . but it dont help i havnt any thumbs.
 
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words to text :).
 
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As long as they're all there after being straightened out you should be fine.

I do hate that AMD uses PGA instead of LGA on Ryzen
 

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Well I've decided to change my thermal paste with a better one so I tried to remove the heatsink carefully (in my opinion), by turning slightly right and left couple of times after which time I pull the heatsink completely. Then I immediately realized that my 3900x came with its cooler without turning off the cpu lock.

After fixing with a blade, here is what I see from bottom:

It is thankfully working now, but how can I trust it now? I really don't think AMD will ever RMA this but what do you suggest to me? Change the cpu?
Use a mechanical pencil to straighten pins, been doing this Since Skt 423.

Just use it.
 
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I bent some pins on the second-hand 5800X I bought the other day, while cleaning it prior to installing it - one of the cotton buds I was using snagged on a couple of pins and I pulled without thinking. I cursed at my idiocy, then shrugged, bent the pins back and installed the CPU, which is powering the machine I'm typing this on. I don't expect I'll ever have any trouble with it, and likely neither will you. As long as the pin isn't broken right off, it's good (and if it's a ground pin you might still be good).

This, BTW, is why I prefer PGA over LGA. Bending pins on a PGA CPU is a non-event because you can easily bend them back; bending those bloody contacts in an LGA socket is generally a death sentence for a motherboard because it's well-nigh impossible for the average user to correct them. When you are a clumsy sod like me who knows you're going to fuck something up, the thought of LGA is a terrifying one.
I still prefer LGA because the retention bracket does a much better job at keeping the CPU in the socket than the weird magic on PGA. There's a minimal chance you're gonna bend your LGA legs if you're careful enough, while bent PGA pins are quite common.

As for OP @mclaren85 Don't worry about it. As long as it's working, it's fine. :)
 

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I still prefer LGA because the retention bracket does a much better job at keeping the CPU in the socket than the weird magic on PGA. There's a minimal chance you're gonna bend your LGA legs if you're careful enough, while bent PGA pins are quite common.

As for OP @mclaren85 Don't worry about it. As long as it's working, it's fine. :)
Issue is most don't turn the rig on, let it run 30 minutes, turn it off and then immediately remove the hsf. I didn't figure this out until after the 2nd skt 478 cpu I tried removing years ago.

Haven't had an issue since.
 
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Issue is most don't turn the rig on, let it run 30 minutes, turn it off and then immediately remove the hsf. I didn't figure this out until after the 2nd skt 478 cpu I tried removing years ago.

Haven't had an issue since.
Smart trick. I'll store that one away for my next maintenance window.
 

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Smart trick. I'll store that one away for my next maintenance window.
With twisting motion ofc to break the bond
 
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With twisting motion ofc to break the bond
Always. That one I already knew (as does anyone who has played very long with PGA boards, I'd hope)
 
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I bent some pins on the second-hand 5800X I bought the other day, while cleaning it prior to installing it - one of the cotton buds I was using snagged on a couple of pins and I pulled without thinking. I cursed at my idiocy, then shrugged, bent the pins back and installed the CPU, which is powering the machine I'm typing this on. I don't expect I'll ever have any trouble with it, and likely neither will you. As long as the pin isn't broken right off, it's good (and if it's a ground pin you might still be good).

This, BTW, is why I prefer PGA over LGA. Bending pins on a PGA CPU is a non-event because you can easily bend them back; bending those bloody contacts in an LGA socket is generally a death sentence for a motherboard because it's well-nigh impossible for the average user to correct them. When you are a clumsy sod like me who knows you're going to fuck something up, the thought of LGA is a terrifying one.
well, I haven't EVER bent any LGA moob socket, but have several times bent poor AMD cpus:p:D
so I don't know why all this mess about LGA about unless you DROP the cpu right onto socket. well, I've even dropped once, but, as I said, without any bending. But, taking AMD coolers off the cpus ALWAYS sticks TIM onto cpus.:rolleyes:

Use a mechanical pencil to straighten pins, been doing this Since Skt 423.

Just use it.
well, I always use needle. yeah, I'm that stupid non-physics guy who don't believe in static. if I don't wear synthetic dress, that's me who receive static charge frome someone or something:) just before touching some electronic components I touch (sometimes) radiator or steel parts of the furniture lol

I think it would wrong to try and RMA it.

That said, maybe just my tired old eyes, but, like 95Viper, I don't see anything alarming in your pics. If none of the pins broke when bent or when straightening, AND if you took due care to prevent zapping the CPU with static while handling it, it should be fine.

I wonder why you tried to replace the TIM (thermal interface material) in the first place? Typically, there is no good reason to replace it, unless the cured bond was broken. And that does not happen except through abuse (computer was bounced around during shipping) or if the user twists the cooler.

By far, in the vast majority of cases, replacing the TIM only yields a few degrees improvement in cooling. And if the temps are so high the CPU "needs" those few degrees to prevent crossing thermal protection thresholds, there are other much more urgent cooling issues to deal with first - like case cooling or a failing fan or improper clocking. There is no need to replace TIM just because it is X number of years old, or even if dried out. The solids that are left behind are still there doing their job.

It is important the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal to metal contact of the mating surfaces. And to remember the purpose of TIM is to fill only the microscopic pits and valleys in those mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that may get trapped within. And the only reason TIM comes in a liquified form is so it can be squeezed out of the tube and spread around - as thin as possible.

Only one way that I know of - try and see.

Oh, and making a stupid mistake does not mean someone is stupid. Now if you do again, that's another story! ;)
it's a good rule to change the TIM. I always try to replace it when I'm looking to improve temps especially on hot stuff like performance laptops, gpus or cpus. I don't care about 2 core cpus or non-performance gpus at all tho :D
 
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I thought TIM did tend to dry out and become less effective over time? Or is that only on high power GPU's?
 
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I thought TIM did tend to dry out and become less effective over time? Or is that only on high power GPU's?
I mean, sort of. It does dry out some but should still perform acceptably if the cured bond is not broken. It's a bigtime "diminishing returns" kind of thing.

You'll get more temp improvements from dusting and keeping a clean case really (which I need to do, btw)...
 
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Look on the bright side, at least it's not LGA. With that you'd most likely be f'd.
 
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Stupid no, shet happens but as long as it still works then its lesson learned at least.
Its thanks to such topics like this that now I'm really careful when handling AMD CPUs or dealing with Intel mobo sockets like my life depends on it. :laugh:

So far I'm yet to bend pins on any CPU/socket but I did almost bent a RGB connector pin on my current mobo. 'I actually use those in my current build'

If it makes you feel better, I did accidentally break a 1 TB NVMe SSD like 1 year ago and I had to buy a new one, that one stung for sure and made me feel stupid. 'cost me a month worth of saved up money..:shadedshu:'
 

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I've done the same exact thing not that long ago. It is a PITA to remove the CPU from the heatsink with all that paste acting as a glue. Thankfully I very carefully bent the pins back in place and have not touched it since :laugh:
 
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While its helpful to run the rig for a few min to warm up everything,
there are enough times where its not helpful (LM) or possible (not running/partially taken apart),
i havent had any trouble when twisting the block (without any lifting force) until its off the HS.
 
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While its helpful to run the rig for a few min to warm up everything,
there are enough times where its not helpful (LM) or possible (not running/partially taken apart),
i havent had any trouble when twisting the block (without any lifting force) until its off the HS.
Never considered pre warming, that’s a good idea I’ll remember.

Got an OG Xbox I need to do this too, I’ll try it on that as they can be a realPITA to remove the heat sink.
 

Tigger

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I once used a big spanner to twist the CPU off the HSF it was stuck on, with no risk of damaging the pins.
 
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Issue is most don't turn the rig on, let it run 30 minutes, turn it off and then immediately remove the hsf.
Excellent advice but I note it doesn't even have to be 30 minutes. Since a CPU can go from cold to over-heated in just a few clock cycles (and there are billions of clock cycles per second), just a few minutes is all that is needed to get it up to "normal" operating temps.

Regardless your valuable tip/point is the same - the cooler is much easier to remove when you can easily break the cured bond when the old TIM is warm. And if the motherboard will not boot or cannot be powered up for some reason, a couple minutes with a hair dryer/heat gun (on low) carefully pointed at the heatsink will sufficiently warm it up.

And NEVER pull the cooler straight up off the processor. Always use a little "twist and pull" motion.

I thought TIM did tend to dry out and become less effective over time?
True but the importance of this is WAY WAY overblown. What is important to understand is if your processor actually "needs" those 5° to keep from crossing over thermal protection thresholds, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first.

TIM can dry out and it will lose a few (~5° is typical) degrees of efficiency over time. But that's no big deal.

As noted above in post #4 above, it is only in liquid form to make it easier to squeeze out of the tube and spread around. It is the solids that are left behind that are doing the heat transfer/air blocking work, not the liquid component of the TIM. Again if your processor actually "needs" those 5°, you have more urgent cooling needs to deal with first. See The Heatsink Guide - old but still applicable and valid).

The only time dried TIM really matters is if it dries out in the tube. Then you may end up with grainy chunks of TIM that would prevent a proper, smooth, thin layer during application.

TIM will easily last 10, 15 years or longer AS LONG AS that cured bond is not broken. Consider this, there is not a single TIM maker, motherboard or computer maker, CPU or GPU maker, or cooler maker who recommends or even suggests replacing the TIM after X number of years.

Or is that only on high power GPU's?
Nope. It does not matter the component - whether CPU, GPU, memory, VRM, or whatever heat sensitive component you are trying to keep adequately cooled; AS LONG AS the cured bond is not broken, there is no need to replace the TIM (and risk damage from mishandling :() just because it has dried or because X number of years have passed.
 
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