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Intel I51035G1 92~C on load, and it's a 15W TDP CPU??

equiler

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My laptop is suffering because of the heat and it causes thermal throttling. I'm talking about 0,3 Ghz, even the base clock is 1.2 Ghz for this thing. When i'm trying to play a normal game temps just goes sky high. I tried repasting thermal paste, cleaned the fans. Even if i lock the ghz at 1.2 or 0,9 ghz it still thermal throttling and drops to 0,3 ghz again. (0,3 ghz is NOT acceptable since i can't even move my cursor.)
Screenshot 2022-01-08 164545.png

[I can't take screenshots when it drops to 0,3, not happening]
I ended up buying 2 cooling pads, one of them was cheap so i took the fan inside of it and put the fan below the laptop (i throught it might help) and kept using other cooling pad (which has 2 fans inside working at 2000 RPM). It didn't work. The heatsink in this thing is small, only one fan is operating the whole cooling and it works at 769~ RPM (unlocked the bios and checked it since the OEM doesn't even let me to see fan temps on this thing, i cant edit the fan speed).
vhng.PNG


I'm looking for advanced cooling solutions. Don't waste your time to tell me "clean your laptop", or "repaste thermal paste". I'm really looking for crazy sh*t.

OFFTOPIC: I managed to reach out the OEM (Acer) and made a post in their forum and they told me that these temps are "normal". (bullshit)
It didn't worked out for me so i reached out Acer's twitter and they did actually respond.
But it didn't help as well since they wanted me to ship laptop and its just impossible. (It's not just a product error i've seen people who has this laptop and had same problem)
PS: I used quickcpu, throttlestop, coretemp to measure the temps. All of them are the similar or same temps.
 
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It almost sounds like the cooler isn't attaching properly and there's a gap between it and the processor. Temperatures fluctuating very quickly often means there's little to no transfer of heat. If the increase is more gradual, there's a problem with dissipation. It's not clear from your post which occurs (rapid spikes or gradual heat up with throttling).

What is the laptop model number?
Is it possible that you've bent the heat pipes on the cooler? Kinks can negatively affect dissipation of heat in copper pipes, especially in lower cost models since often these are hollow and very thin to save on cost.

Can you inspect the assembly carefully for any signs of damage or misalignment? It would be good to post photos of how it's configured. I might even disassemble and attempt to run outside of case to verify that the cooler is seated properly depending on how difficult that is to accomplish or how easily accessible the assembly is while installed inside the laptop case.

Not knowing any more of the details, it's difficult to provide a clear fix but I would recommend a very simple trick for ensuring good connection between the cooler and the cpu (assuming the cooler uses 4 screws to attach to the board). Tighten the screws a cross-over fashion (1,3,2,4) rather than to 1,2,3,4. This is a good habit to be in on any kind of hub assembly in general.
 

equiler

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What is the laptop model number?

It's Acer Extensa 215-53G.

I found a video that i recorded while disassembling laptop.

Screenshot 2022-01-09 164144.png


The heatsink is including only one pipe for the GPU and CPU.
Fan is held by 2 regular screws. Doesn't feel like its loose.

If you can solve my problem i'd be so grateful.
 
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1.use a thicker grade thermal paste like arctic silver 5 or noctua nt h1.....it would fill any gaps between the chips and the heatsink plates much better, and prevents 'pump out' of the thermal paste..

2.use a copper shim under the cpu and gpu heatsink plates..
Screenshot_20220110-092128_Chrome.jpg
 

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What is the laptop model number?

It's Acer Extensa 215-53G.

I found a video that i recorded while disassembling laptop.

View attachment 231766

The heatsink is including only one pipe for the GPU and CPU.
Fan is held by 2 regular screws. Doesn't feel like its loose.

If you can solve my problem i'd be so grateful.
No fans?

1.use a thicker grade thermal paste like arctic silver 5 or noctua nt h1.....it would fill any gaps between the chips and the heatsink plates much better, and prevents 'pump out' of the thermal paste..

2.use a copper shim under the cpu and gpu heatsink plates..
View attachment 231830
Those plates id be using AS5 with ASEpoxy 50/50mix to ensure they stay locked to the heatsink and not creep around.

I did that to some tweak monster ramsinks on my Dell Inspiron XPS Gen 1(Inspiron 9100) Laptop for the Radeon 9800 256, then i used akasa shinetsu pads on the gpu die and chipset die.
 
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Is it attached by 3 screws? You mention 2 but it looks like there are three positions around the CPU that are the same (it would make sense that 3 would be the minimum, usually they use 4 positions).

And one test i'd run would be thermal paste only on the processor die, not the gpu / northbridge die. I recently ran into some heat issues with a latitude e7250 and the 'official' fix for them from dell was to introduce a new heat sink that didn't encompass the secondary chip since the way the heat pipes were positioned meant that the heat was transferring from the northbridge to the cpu - i doubt that's the case here judging by the temperatures, but it might be worth exploring, especially since you probably care more about CPU temp than gpu / NB temps.

Please let us know if the temperature spikes rapidly or if it's gradual. (how long from cool to throttling, what happens to temp at idle etc.
 
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In the image you attached above are both the dies on the CPU of same height? Also could you share an image of your heatsink?
On my 8th Gen ThinkPad, Lenovo's repasting instructions were to not put any thermal paste on the PCH it as its a component that doesn't get too hot. I remember putting thermal paste on mine during my re-paste application and saw that my CPU package temperature was in the 90'ies. I was intentionally heating a component that wasn't supposed to have a heatsink contact on it. Double check on your side.
1641843024019.png
 

equiler

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In the image you attached above are both the dies on the CPU of same height? Also could you share an image of your heatsink?
On my 8th Gen ThinkPad, Lenovo's repasting instructions were to not put any thermal paste on the PCH it as its a component that doesn't get too hot. I remember putting thermal paste on mine during my re-paste application and saw that my CPU package temperature was in the 90'ies. I was intentionally heating a component that wasn't supposed to have a heatsink contact on it. Double check on your side.
View attachment 231880
Thermal application is fine. I used Arctic MK4. Both of the dies has been thermal pasted. The heatsink covers whole cpu. Thanks for reminding.

Is it attached by 3 screws? You mention 2 but it looks like there are three positions around the CPU that are the same (it would make sense that 3 would be the minimum, usually they use 4 positions).

And one test i'd run would be thermal paste only on the processor die, not the gpu / northbridge die. I recently ran into some heat issues with a latitude e7250 and the 'official' fix for them from dell was to introduce a new heat sink that didn't encompass the secondary chip since the way the heat pipes were positioned meant that the heat was transferring from the northbridge to the cpu - i doubt that's the case here judging by the temperatures, but it might be worth exploring, especially since you probably care more about CPU temp than gpu / NB temps.

Please let us know if the temperature spikes rapidly or if it's gradual. (how long from cool to throttling, what happens to temp at idle etc.
CPU fan attached by 2 screws, CPU attached to motherboard by 3 screws.
I don't have any thermal issues with GPU. My CPU spikes up to 50 to 85C when i try to open chrome. Then it drops back to 70~
I need to fix this problem ASAP.
Also the heatsink is probably fine. The fan spins around 769~ RPM which sounds not really fast. Can i switch this fan with another fan that has more speed? Apologies if it sounds dumb but its the only thing comes to my mind.

For fan control you might try this:
Didn't work. Thanks for suggestion.
 

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Thermal application is fine. I used Arctic MK4. Both of the dies has been thermal pasted. The heatsink covers whole cpu. Thanks for reminding.


CPU fan attached by 2 screws, CPU attached to motherboard by 3 screws.
I don't have any thermal issues with GPU. My CPU spikes up to 50 to 85C when i try to open chrome. Then it drops back to 70~
I need to fix this problem ASAP.
Also the heatsink is probably fine. The fan spins around 769~ RPM which sounds not really fast. Can i switch this fan with another fan that has more speed? Apologies if it sounds dumb but its the only thing comes to my mind.


Didn't work. Thanks for suggestion.
Reading comprehension please
do not put thermal paste on the PCH
2.
its a cheap acer the cooler is woefuly undersized and not engineered to prevent throttling quiet the opposite its engineered to throttle because this is one way of limiting performance on cheap sku's

a copper shim Might help as I don't expect the cooler to mount very flatly on such a cheap laptop but other then that you are SOL baring any damage to the heatpipe there is nothing to be fixed here
 

equiler

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Reading comprehension please
do not put thermal paste on the PCH
2.
its a cheap acer the cooler is woefuly undersized and not engineered to prevent throttling quiet the opposite its engineered to throttle because this is one way of limiting performance on cheap sku's

a copper shim Might help as I don't expect the cooler to mount very flatly on such a cheap laptop but other then that you are SOL baring any damage to the heatpipe there is nothing to be fixed here
I can't play basic games or edit a 1080p video, what do you mean "there's nothing to be fixed"? I don't care if its designed to throttle.
Looking for help here, not discussion.
 

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I can't play basic games or edit a 1080p video, what do you mean "there's nothing to be fixed"? I don't care if its designed to throttle.
Looking for help here, not discussion
and I am telling you that 85-90c is considered normal operating range on that laptop if acer has decided to throttle it to 900mhz when it gets to 90c then talk to them you can try throttle stop but considering you are already pushing the thermal limits and the cheapness of the board its likely to just meltdown if you try

there is no solution that doesn't involve hardware modifications (copper ships or trying to add extra mass to the cooler in the form of copper heatsinks and thermal epoxy)
edit: reviews confirm laptop highest sustained clock speeds in thermal constrained scenarios are 900-1000Mhz
F
 

equiler

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i'd take 900 mhz (0,9) ghz. But it drops to 0,3 (300 mhz) which is impossible to use. Like i can't even move cursor properly, don't ever think about launching a app.
and I am telling you that 85-90c is considered normal operating range on that laptop if acer has decided to throttle it to 900mhz when it gets to 90c then talk to them you can try throttle stop but considering you are already pushing the thermal limits and the cheapness of the board its likely to just meltdown if you try

there is no solution that doesn't involve hardware modifications (copper ships or trying to add extra mass to the cooler in the form of copper heatsinks and thermal epoxy)
edit: reviews confirm laptop highest sustained clock speeds in thermal constrained scenarios are 900-1000Mhz
F
 
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Couple of further points
  • Just checking, you have already updated to latest BIOS?
  • You can try to disable turbo-boost by setting the CPU % to 99% under Power Settings, or best create a custom power plan.
    More here Link
  • You can also try Intel XTU to under-volt by a tiny offset (50-90mV), however not sure if PlunderVolt applies to all laptops with 10th Gen Intel chips. Probably worth checking out.
    Link
Its a common problem with shared heatsinks with single fan where the temperature controller is essentially playing ping-pong with the dissipation of heat from CPU and GPU. If the heatsink gets hot, it has to throttle either to maintain that thermal envelope.
By forcing one item (CPU to 99%) you are essentially giving the GPU more headroom to hold its clocks longer and higher hopefully allowing you to game/edit videos etc. for longer periods of time albeit with lower FPS. But this way you don't annoyingly throttle to 0.3MHz. It used to happen a lot with my ThinkPad P43s with i7 8550u and Quadro P520.
Give it a try and let us know.
 

equiler

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Couple of further points
  • Just checking, you have already updated to latest BIOS?
  • You can try to disable turbo-boost by setting the CPU % to 99% under Power Settings, or best create a custom power plan.
    More here Link
  • You can also try Intel XTU to under-volt by a tiny offset (50-90mV), however not sure if PlunderVolt applies to all laptops with 10th Gen Intel chips. Probably worth checking out.
    Link
Its a common problem with shared heatsinks with single fan where the temperature controller is essentially playing ping-pong with the dissipation of heat from CPU and GPU. If the heatsink gets hot, it has to throttle either to maintain that thermal envelope.
By forcing one item (CPU to 99%) you are essentially giving the GPU more headroom to hold its clocks longer and higher hopefully allowing you to game/edit videos etc. for longer periods of time albeit with lower FPS. But this way you don't annoyingly throttle to 0.3MHz. It used to happen a lot with my ThinkPad P43s with i7 8550u and Quadro P520.
Give it a try and let us know.
BIOS is up-to-date.
Disabling turbo boost drops speed down to 0,9 Ghz (900 mhz) and it throttles again.
Intel XTU is not supported.
Can't undervolt. OEM locked the feature. (Cannot change in BIOS also.)
 
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The chip that salvo circled in the image above: don't apply any thermal compound to it and only apply to the cpu die as in that example. r

Reassemble and test temperature that way with core temp or hwinfo64 or something that shows all the thermistor reports.

As mentioned earlier, I resolved a similar issue on a a latitude E7250 this way - this appears to be a standard recommended fix at least for my model from DELL - i would imagine it's the same for many of these light weight / ultra books.

The obvius downside is that you'll no longer get efficient cooling on that chip but you probably care more about cpu temp anyway.

1641937215170.png


Also it seems that 1ghz is what it should be running at, that's not the throttle. Yes it boosts to 3.6 but that's only if temps are good and likely very short bursts- standard operating clock appears to be 1ghz for this model. 900mhz is a mild throttle, but it might simply be 1ghz misreported depending on what you're relying on.
 

equiler

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The chip that salvo circled in the image above: don't apply any thermal compound to it and only apply to the cpu die as in that example. r

Reassemble and test temperature that way with core temp or hwinfo64 or something that shows all the thermistor reports.

As mentioned earlier, I resolved a similar issue on a a latitude E7250 this way - this appears to be a standard recommended fix at least for my model from DELL - i would imagine it's the same for many of these light weight / ultra books.

The obvius downside is that you'll no longer get efficient cooling on that chip but you probably care more about cpu temp anyway.

View attachment 232054

Also it seems that 1ghz is what it should be running at, that's not the throttle. Yes it boosts to 3.6 but that's only if temps are good and likely very short bursts- standard operating clock appears to be 1ghz for this model. 900mhz is a mild throttle, but it might simply be 1ghz misreported depending on what you're relying on.
I'm okay with 1Ghz but it drops to 0,3 when i'm trying to edit a video or play a basic game. How do i avoid that?
I'll repaste thermal paste when i get a new one, do you think liquid metal cooling worth it?
If i switch my cpu's fan with another spare part (like acer nitro 5) would it be compatible with that?
Also i'll clear the thermal paste from this part of cpu as you mentioned.
Screenshot 2022-01-12 005724.png
 

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don't use liquid metal unless you know what you are doing it requires a lot of prep to be done safely
MX5 or MX4

if you can get anouther cooler to mount correctly why not
 

equiler

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don't use liquid metal unless you know what you are doing it requires a lot of prep to be done safely
MX5 or MX4

if you can get anouther cooler to mount correctly why not
I watched a lot of videos about liquid metal, i'll keep it as a option if my plans don't go well.
Probably mk4 cuz better value.
Do you think i can hook a cpu fan to motherboard that has same amount of pins like my currently fan does?
 

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more fan is not likely to help your problem is that cooler is just too small/crappy mount

adding anouther fan runs the risk of burning out the fan controller on the board

you might be-able to get some of these https://www.amazon.com/icepc-DIY-Heatsink-Silicone-Thermal-70x20x2mm/dp/B083FK6RPL/r
and cut them up and attach them to the cooler (with thermal expoxy) to increase the surface area somewhat

but again its a cheap acer anything done here is likely a exercise in futility
 

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liquid metal is going to kill your laptop if parts are at different heights.
trust me, i use it in my systems and my own laptop - it's dangerous and WILL NOT help if mounting pressure is an issue.

Are you using thick thermal paste on CPU/GPU dies, and thermal pads where required?
Paste on a pads location will simply not work
 

equiler

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liquid metal is going to kill your laptop if parts are at different heights.
trust me, i use it in my systems and my own laptop - it's dangerous and WILL NOT help if mounting pressure is an issue.

Are you using thick thermal paste on CPU/GPU dies, and thermal pads where required?
Paste on a pads location will simply not work
I don't think cpu and gpu at different height.
there's no thermal pads just thermal paste (i put a decent amount of thermal paste idk if its thick or not)
mounting seems fine, the screws are tight and it doesn't feel loose
 

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Memory 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3800 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V, SoC 1.15V Hynix MJR)
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Often underclocked to 1500Mhz 0.737v
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + WD AN1500 1TB + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s) Gigabyte G32QC (4k80Hz, 1440p 165Hz) + Phillips 328m6fjrmb (4K 60Hz, 1440p 144Hz)
Case Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s) Logitech G560 |Razer Leviathan | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply Corsair HX 750i (Platinum, fan off til 300W)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE (custom white and steel keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS)
Benchmark Scores I don't quite know how i managed to get such a top tier PC, I am not rich.
I don't think cpu and gpu at different height.
there's no thermal pads just thermal paste (i put a decent amount of thermal paste idk if its thick or not)
mounting seems fine, the screws are tight and it doesn't feel loose
VRAM, VRM, etc nearby - they'll need pads. If they're too thin they'll overheat, too thick they'll push CPU and GPU further out. If that happens with LM, bad times ahead.
 

OneMoar

There is Always Moar
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
8,339 (1.89/day)
Location
Rochester area
System Name RPC MK2.5
Processor Ryzen 5800x
Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Pro V2
Cooling Enermax ets-t50
Memory CL16 BL2K16G36C16U4RL 3600 1:1 micron e-die
Video Card(s) GIGABYTE RTX 3070 Ti GAMING OC
Storage ADATA SX8200PRO NVME \512GB Intel 545s ssd \500GB ADATA SU800 ssd 3TB Spinner
Display(s) 1440p Dell
Case Phanteks P300 /w 300A front panel conversion
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply HX 750i
Mouse Kone burst Pro
Keyboard redragon k580 vata /w QMK-ORGB
Software Windows 11 +startisallback
VRAM, VRM, etc nearby - they'll need pads. If they're too thin they'll overheat, too thick they'll push CPU and GPU further out. If that happens with LM, bad times ahead.
in his case the cooler doesn't touch any of that anyway
more concerned about pumpout and the aforementioned heigh differences if he goes lquid metal that shims will probly be involved which ... leads to more pumpout ...
 

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
53,483 (8.31/day)
Location
Oystralia
System Name Rainbow Sparkles
Processor Ryzen R7 5800X (PBO tweaked, 4.4-5.05GHz)
Motherboard Asus x570 Gaming-F
Cooling EK Quantum Velocity AM4 + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate. Dual rad.
Memory 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3800 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V, SoC 1.15V Hynix MJR)
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Often underclocked to 1500Mhz 0.737v
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + WD AN1500 1TB + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s) Gigabyte G32QC (4k80Hz, 1440p 165Hz) + Phillips 328m6fjrmb (4K 60Hz, 1440p 144Hz)
Case Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s) Logitech G560 |Razer Leviathan | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply Corsair HX 750i (Platinum, fan off til 300W)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE (custom white and steel keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS)
Benchmark Scores I don't quite know how i managed to get such a top tier PC, I am not rich.
I'm gunna guess it's something like these metal legs got bent, and screwed with the pressure/mounting

1642037041681.png
 
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