Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by natr0n, Jul 29, 2014.
Indeed. below 40 idle and mid 60's gaming. IBT core 1 maxed 85. 2,3,4, 78-81. 212 evo.
I can't believe anyone would recommend taking a HAMMER and a block of wood to a 300.00 Proc
and if the hammer wasn't enough you are to put up a sheet to catch the proc when it flys off the vice
I don't even
I don't get it either. I used a razor blade and while that method requires some focus and caution, it's nowhere near as "abusive" as using brute force to literally tear the IHS off. WTF.
i have seen a lot of people say it works for them. and i have seen a lot of people say that you have to hit it a Lot harder than you think for it to come off and you leave marks on the cpu itself, as well as the ihs..
Personaly id use the razor method. but use the fattest blade that will work and be slow and methodical about it..
theres being quick, and theres being carefull. and then there is just being lazy..
I used the hammer and vice method, and I would use it again. There may have been marks on the ihs but the chip itself looked fine, no signs of damage or hitting.
As far as force, I did a few hits to the cpu and nothing budged, but when I gave it a good whack, it popped right off; I think initially I was trying to be careful.
Obviously delidding isn't for everyone, regardless of method used
Brought a razor blade home from work last night and was prepping my alcohol and anti static band and for the life of me I have no clue where my blade went........... I was pumped to. The same thing hapend to my tim spreader I got with my (cm) fusion 400 awhile back. Fricken gnomes!
I have delidded 6 cpus and the hammer method is the best way to do it. Celerons are about $5 a piece off ebay, I went through 5 of them before I did my old i5. I did a few with razor blades and a few with a block of wood and a mallet and the mallet did it faster and cleaner with no visible damage. You aren't really hitting it very hard either. The silicon adhesive (rtv?) that intel uses shears off with a small amount of force when you hit it at the correct angle. Its barely more than a tap.
As far as the i5 it didn't really make a difference on the overclock, voltage was about the same even if temperatures came down by 15-20*C. I think it was a waste. I believe that voltage kills these chips anyway, not temperature. Theres no point unless you are are on the bleeding edge of benchmarking.
Also Ivy TJmax is 105*C.
i an only find tcase temps from intel which were around the 65c range. im not sure where the 105c tjmax comes from
From the cpuid table on the chip
A little research and/or real temp will tell you your tj max or as Vario said, Aida.
Also similar chips might have very different Tjmaxes as well and different chips might have similar values. You can't assume anything about what it is really.
i thought these apps just guessed the tjmax from a bunch of other values
I just want to find a way to tie my braking to a motor/generator to provide a boost to take off at a red light.
I am kinda confused by the title, Sandy-Bridge-E - Ivy-Bridge-E all had a soldered Heat spreader?
you can solder it your self http://www.rotometals.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=LowMeltingPoint158190
get some of that slice it THIN ( its soft so its easy to work out a sheet with a hammer) amount off and place under the IHS install cpu without heatsink and turn it on untill the proc hits 90c
it melts and fuses at about 90c
If it fuses at 90*C you will have some serious problems if your cpu gets that hot.
IDK if he ever succeeded
Could always try indigo extreme under the lid.
isnt it really an epoxy rather than solder though. i think indego would go every where unless it was specifically packaged for a particular die.
90c isn't a problem for intel chips ?
indigo is the SAME type of alloy I linked also posted links to indium foil in another thread foil is the better solution the problem is getting it I can't find any store the sells the right type of alloy in a small quantity you want it to have a melting point of about 90c so long as you keep it below that it will remain solid like solder
if the temperature ever hits 90 it will unfuse. If you are benchmarking you will hit 90.
depends on the cooling also depending on the alloy once it fuses once the melting point goes up
id really rather go heat sink to dye without the ihs rather than try to solder the ihs back on.
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