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Is 1.271 V too high for stock i7 2600?

Jikex

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#1
Hi, I have Core i7 2600 along with Gigabyte GA-H67MA-UD2H B3 and Thermalright True Spirit 120. Currently my CPU voltage jumps to 1.271 V under full load (Prime95) and temps reach ~63C. I think it's a little too high. The case is decently cooled.
Here's screenshot from HWINFO: http://imgur.com/KnKz0CE
I've read, that stock voltage for i7 2600 is 1.2 V. Is that true, should I try to lower it? Also, here's how it looks in BIOS: http://imgur.com/7bI8kNl,GSatPuv
 
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#2
That may be a little high for a non-overclocked 2600, but it's nothing to worry about. Prime95 loads the CPU more than any game or program you're likely to run. Your CPU isn't in any danger, it's designed to throttle down if it gets past 100c. For high heat to degrade the chip, it would have to be running 85c+, 24/7, and even then it would take years. But if it seems higher than normal, it may be time to blow everything out with compressed air, and make sure the CPU cooler is still tight at all 4 corners. Your voltage isn't really that high, but your motherboard is probably setting it too high (on auto) to ensure stability. You could try under-volting the CPU a little, see if that improves temps, but you have to check the system for stability after every change you make in the BIOS (by running Prime95 for at least 20 minutes). If no errors show and no programs crash, you're good, and can maybe go a little lower. Don't be afraid to try things, if it crashes just reset defaults in BIOS and go back to last stable setting, or sometimes you have to reset the CMOS by jumping the CLR_RTC jumber with the system powered down, or removing the little battery on the motherboard. Hope this helps...
 

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#3
1.25v is considered stock voltage.
 
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#4
Its a high stock voltage but its not a problem, anywhere from 1.1 to 1.28 is probably the normal range for most chips.

I see the VID on the hwinfo picture but not the voltage. The VID is just the amount the processor asks for as set by Intel at the factory, its a rough gauge of silicon quality, lower chips have a lower vid, but it doesn't mean the motherboard actually supplies that much voltage.
 
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Jikex

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#5
I actually installed the cooler two days ago (it's brand new). It seems to be really tight, no way you could move it even a bit. I also cleared whole CPU from dust not long ago, so that shouldn't be an issue. I have hard time finding software that would give me actual voltage, and not just VID. This is what CPU-Z shows:
Idle:
http://i.imgur.com/oKc9pfW.png
Load:
http://i.imgur.com/pXUiLPG.png
As for undervolting, how exactly do I do this properly? I want my CPU to still reduce voltage while in Idle and not to sit on one value all the time. I think I need to set CPU VCORE to normal, and then do something with Dynamic Vcore (DVID), but what value should I put there?
 
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#6
I thought H67 was integrated video but no overclocking and P67 was no integrated video but could OC....

Oh, nevermind, just talking about voltages! Yes, you'd need to use the offset mode, which adds votage to the stock CPU.

For reducing the voltage it should auto downlcock the CPU and also at the same time the voltage needed.

I know my 2600k would downclock to 1.6 GHz @0.somethingorother volts with load.
 
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Jikex

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#7
So, if I understand correctly, it works this way:
CPU Vcore + DVID = Load Voltage
So if I want to check, whether my CPU will be stable at 1.25 V or not, I should set DVID to 0.05 V?
 
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#8
So, if I understand correctly, it works this way:
CPU Vcore + DVID = Load Voltage
So if I want to check, whether my CPU will be stable at 1.25 V or not, I should set DVID to 0.05 V?
I believe so, yes. The terminology is a bit different than my Asus board, but the concepts are the same.
I know on my Asus you could either add or subtract voltages depending on what you wanted to do, should be something similar on the Gigabyte board of yours.
 

Jikex

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#9
It doesn't seem like i'm capable of getting any software to accurately show current voltage :(.
Here's what HW Monitor shows:
DVID +0.03 http://i.imgur.com/0lg9zTx.png
DVID Normal http://i.imgur.com/AehmjpJ.png
DVID Auto http://i.imgur.com/q7K2Lau.png
I hoped that "CPU" in voltages tab might be current CPU voltage, but it seems too low. Also the "max" value jumps to 1.200 V after ending P95 stress test. Maximum temperetaure is 65C and is not affected by changes to voltage...
I wonder if updating BIOS for my motherboard would help, but I'd rather not do it. Gigabyte advises not to if you don't have any issues, as it is potentially risky. My motherboard obviously isn't on warranty anymore.
I also tried EasyTune 6, as it's said to work with B3 Gigabyte motherboards, but readings from different tabs seem to contradict themselves:
http://imgur.com/CqsMbp2,yS68Ozt,SIPJjEC
 
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#10
The risk they're talking about is mainly losing power to the PC while updating the BIOS. Your board also has 2 BIOS chips, selectable by user, so if one becomes corrupt, you can boot from the other, and copy one to the other to recover it. The danger warning is just a disclaimer. The latest BIOS for your board is F8 (3-27-2012), and you currently have F1, the original one for this board (the release BIOS often has several bugs). Several improvements have been made, such as better USB 3.0 support and HDMI support. I would not hesitate to do it, just don't update BIOS in the middle of a thunderstorm, ice storm, or tornado! I have updated the BIOS on all my boards many times without any issues. This might not solve your temp problems, but could improve overall performance anyway - you should never keep the release BIOS version after a new one becomes available, and in your case that's happened 7 times since 2-11-2011. Read your motherboard manual, and go to this page on Gigabyte's website to get the new one - http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3768&dl=1#bios
 
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#12
Try using a thumb drive to update the bios.
 
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#13
1,27 Volt is all within range for normal use. Temps in the range off 63 are normal under heavy load.

Consider this: when doing massive Overclocks voltages are cranked way up! Even with air cooled solutions.

Concerning voltages: the only way to get accurate voltage read outs is by using a multimeter and measuring the components on the motherboard itself.

Don't confuse VID and CPU Voltage !

CPU Voltage is the amount off volts measured by the sensor for the cpu. There can be a difference in the voltage you have set in the BIOS and that what is reported by tools like HWINFO and CPU-Z. The voltages that you see there are the Voltages that are actually available underload, the difference is caused by "voltage droop". This can be compensated by using different levels of Load Line Calibration. The fact that the voltages change after starting or stopping prime or any other stress test are a clear sign of droop (wich initself is not bad at all).
 

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#14
Thanks for clarification (yeah, i confused VID with voltage, but). I think that with auto voltages my CPU gets maximum of 1.224 V with HT and 1.212 V without HT. I tried lowering it but it didn't really affect the temps. I'm starting to think that two other factors may be the cause of problem:
1) Not great thermal paste. I think I applied it properly but it's just the paste added to Cooler Master coolers (Zalman STG-1 was even worse). I ordered Gelid GC Extreme and will try using it. I laso bought isopropyl alcohol to clean my CPU and cooler properly.
2) I've read that Noiseblocker XL1 is not designed to apply pressure so it doesn't work great with coolers. I'll try swapping it for my old Nexus to see if it will make a difference.
By the way, when applying Gelid GC Extreme should I just put an even amount of it on the surface of the CPU or also put a bit of it on the surface of the cooler like instruction suggests? According to Tom's Hardware:
In the case of Thermalright’s True Spirit line, it makes sense to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and apply thermal paste on both the CPU and cooler base for optimum results. Without enough thermal paste, you'll lose contact surface area between the processor's heat spreader and the cooler’s base plate. That's typically more problematic than too much.
 
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#15
1,27 Volt is all within range for normal use. Temps in the range off 63 are normal under heavy load.

Consider this: when doing massive Overclocks voltages are cranked way up! Even with air cooled solutions.

Concerning voltages: the only way to get accurate voltage read outs is by using a multimeter and measuring the components on the motherboard itself.

Don't confuse VID and CPU Voltage !

CPU Voltage is the amount off volts measured by the sensor for the cpu. There can be a difference in the voltage you have set in the BIOS and that what is reported by tools like HWINFO and CPU-Z. The voltages that you see there are the Voltages that are actually available underload, the difference is caused by "voltage droop". This can be compensated by using different levels of Load Line Calibration. The fact that the voltages change after starting or stopping prime or any other stress test are a clear sign of droop (wich initself is not bad at all).
I totally agree LLC will change your auto load voltage and how voltage compensateswith CPU load .

Check his pic in #9 post, top link shows max vcore of 1.896v while I have never seen this high of max , I have seen higher values than the VID , I think these are some kind of software issue giving a very high spike but it not real , similar how GPU power levels can show 300% when driver is not stable .
 
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#16
1.27 volt is 100% fine, you could lower it for sure. My 2600k at stock was around 1.323 volts. I have since overclocked it to 4.0GHz and undervolted it to 1.212 volts and it loves it. My board is a Gigabyte also. Every chips stock voltage is different but most ive seen for the k and non k are around 1.25 as erocker stated.
 

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#17
I even lowered it to 1,176V (if i can trust BIOS readings) and it was stable during Prime95, but temperatures remained unaffected, so unless my motherboard just rises voltage to usual level without me knowing (even with auto settings turned off), I think it might be something else than voltage.
With HT and Turbo turned on VID was 1.271, and CPU voltage was 1.212 - 1.224 under load (if I can trust readings from HWMonitor but they match what's in BIOS so I guess they're fine). Now I have both HT and Turbo turned off and VID is 1.246 V while CPU voltage is 1.176 V under load. The temperatures however remain the same.
 
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#18
I would maybe leave it as its ok at default settings. As long as you don't go over 72.6'C for lengthy periods of time then you should be ok, but if you can tinker and get it lower then why the hell not? good luck my friend :)
 

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#19
I brought it back to AUTO settings since there was no difference. The voltages I spoke about is what AUTO settings give depending on whether HT+Turbo is on or not (however it was fine with HT+Turbo on with 1.176 as well but it required setting it customly, and it didn't affect the temps anyway). I guess I'll try different fan/new paste and see if it helps.
 
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#20
@Jikex,
You could also try AIDA64, they have a free trial version. This is what I am always using (I am doing lots of over clocking/benching). Normally if I don't trust reading I set AIDA64 to create an continues log file of the sensor readings. I pull them into excel and analyze.

You can set which sensors you want to be read and logged.

Mind you: Never set more than one program polling for sensor info, this gives errors/misreads (so don't use HWINFO and AIDA64 or any other program like that at the same time).

I enclosed an example of an analysis i did (not the cpu but gpu temps, buts its just to give you an idea how to gain insight).
 

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#21
Your voltage is fine as others have said. You could set it lower for sure. My 2600k is overclocked to 4Ghz and happily running along at 1.229v, although every chip is different. But you are within specs and I don't see anything to worry about.
 
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#22
Yes, voltage is fine and I would leave it on default (auto) even if you OC a bit Auto should be fine as long as other settings are left on auto but if you go higher on OC with LLC raised don't use auto , use manual or offset mode as that will help with high spikes from auto+high LLC .
 
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#23
Ok I think I solved the problem. Noiseblocker XL1 realy doesn't cool that well. I swapped NB on the heatsink for Nexus Real Silent and the NB in the back of the case as well. Now these are the temps after 15 minutes of Prime95 maximum heat/power consumption test (they should be pretty close to maximum temperature the CPU can reach right?):
http://i.imgur.com/dPvDwAp.png
This looks completely fine so I guess I won't even bother with new paste. Current case (Fractal Define Mini) ventilation is 2x Nexus@700 RPM in the front, Nexus@800RPM on the True Spirit and Nexus@800RPM in the back. Seems like voltage wasn't an issue at all and I just mistaken VID for actual voltage. Thanks for help everyone.
Also, one more question. i noticed in the BIOS, that I can change the CPU multiplier from x34 to x38 even though the H67 motherboards theoretically shouldn't support ovrclocking, and my CPU isn't unlocked model either. Does it mean, I can do a little OC anyway?
 
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#24
Thats good temps , even before was not that bad for prime95 .

My 3570k would run 57c in prime with a 212evo and custom fan profile so it cools better than standard PWM profile .
Your on Sandy but not that much different (Sandy runs slightly cooler at stock clocks ) .
 
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