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just bought a corsair h50

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#1
i just went to best buy and bought a corsair h50 and it will not fit in my case. now i am going to get the cooler master storm scout case from newegg.
 
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#2
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#3
i dont realy want to mod the old case and it is ugly anyways so a new case will be good.
 

Binge

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#4
i just went to best buy and bought a corsair h50 and it will not fit in my case. now i am going to get the cooler master storm scout case from newegg.
my condolences, you're one of the many many fools that have been hooked by water cooling made easy.
 
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#5
my condolences, you're one of the many many fools that have been hooked by water cooling made easy.
:shadedshu

You're still stubborn about the H50 being meant to compete with real water cooling. :slap:
 
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#6
eh, personally I wouldn't touch the H50 with a ten foot pole, but then again I kind of operate on a different standard :p
 
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#7
my condolences, you're one of the many many fools that have been hooked by water cooling made easy.
lawl
don't we have a clubhouse for this thing here?? lol
 
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#8
Binge is harsh on the H50 as usual lol.

I tried one out cooling my PII 955 and it did and excellent job with push/pull configuration. I think it's totally worth the money in comparison to the extreme air coolers out there.

Comparing it to custom water I think is just unfair/pointless. It costs much less (brand new parts not used stuff), takes up almost no, and brainwork is not required to set it up.

It's great for anyone who wants the cooling ability of the massive super air coolers (or better), but doesn't want to have the size limitations and noise that come with those. Also for those who don't want to work out what it'll take to make a full on custom system nor spend the extra money needed.

Great cooler I think, for sure we'll see many more like it and they'll just keep getting better and better...

Kei
 

Binge

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#9
Binge is harsh on the H50 as usual lol.

I tried one out cooling my PII 955 and it did and excellent job with push/pull configuration. I think it's totally worth the money in comparison to the extreme air coolers out there.

Comparing it to custom water I think is just unfair/pointless. It costs much less (brand new parts not used stuff), takes up almost no, and brainwork is not required to set it up.

It's great for anyone who wants the cooling ability of the massive super air coolers (or better), but doesn't want to have the size limitations and noise that come with those. Also for those who don't want to work out what it'll take to make a full on custom system nor spend the extra money needed.

Great cooler I think, for sure we'll see many more like it and they'll just keep getting better and better...

Kei
I have to make this abundantly clear or people might get the same idea a number of folks have about this nightmare of a cooler.

Let's make a list of reasons why the H50 should be in the same bracket as Custom WC as it's so wrongfully called.

  • The H50 uses water to transfer heat from a block to a radiator.
  • The H50 has a pump that can burn out like any water cooling loop.
  • There is no way to tell the fluid levels of the H50. The user runs the risk of the water evaporating over time. Yes water evaporates from the H50.
  • The user must find a place in his/her machine where the radiator does not have to manage with ambient system exhaust.
  • To repeat myself, but for the sake of clarity. The H50 uses a radiator, pump, cooling block, and water.

What's the point you ask of comparing water cooling to water cooling? I can tell you right now that if you made a custom setup with a single radiator it would suck just as much. This cooler is not meant to be used for more than 2 years tops. Sure, the TRUE may not perform as well as some people might like, but it will continue to perform 1C ahead or behind the H50 for much much longer. ROAR!!!! H50s are a terrible idea, Asetek is a horrid company, and the H50 is riding on Corsair's good name. This solution was available well before Corsair bought a bunch of these as an OEM to rebrand... ROAR!!! :rockout:
 
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#10
lol, Binge you are awesome! ROAR!!!!!!

I totally understand where you're coming from, I just see it as a different type of product than you is all. Funny you mention that a single rad setup will 'suck' just as much. I'm building one pretty soon just for cpu cooling only, I only want a single rad setup and nothing elaborate really. I like how small it can be and still beat air cooling without a problem, while being quieter and having more effecient space use.

I don't think that single rad setups are made to set any world records, just to cool a single component and fit into space requirements. They do a great job in that I believe. :) I don't need to cool anything more than my cpu in the loop right now so a dual/triple rad setup for me would just be wasted equipment. Especially since while I can hit 4Ghz I'm not one that runs it 24/7 because I like power savings much more. :toast:

Btw, I don't remember if I've seen your setup yet.....can I? You may convince me to build more than I actually need like a fast food place selling me a 'medium' drink! :D :roll:

Kei
 
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#11
A H50 is the same price as a Swiffy Apogee XT
 

Binge

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#12
I went back to air cooling.

Before:



After:

 

Paulieg

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#13
lol, Binge you are awesome! ROAR!!!!!!

I totally understand where you're coming from, I just see it as a different type of product than you is all. Funny you mention that a single rad setup will 'suck' just as much. I'm building one pretty soon just for cpu cooling only, I only want a single rad setup and nothing elaborate really. I like how small it can be and still beat air cooling without a problem, while being quieter and having more effecient space use.

I don't think that single rad setups are made to set any world records, just to cool a single component and fit into space requirements. They do a great job in that I believe. :) I don't need to cool anything more than my cpu in the loop right now so a dual/triple rad setup for me would just be wasted equipment. Especially since while I can hit 4Ghz I'm not one that runs it 24/7 because I like power savings much more. :toast:

Btw, I don't remember if I've seen your setup yet.....can I? You may convince me to build more than I actually need like a fast food place selling me a 'medium' drink! :D :roll:

Kei
Please keep in mind a couple of the more important things that Binge mentioned. Since it is a sealed loop, you cannot check water levels as it evaporates. This can and will be a problem after a year or so. There is also serious concern with the quality of the pump, since it is made by Asetek. There is a good chance that it WILL fail much sooner than a quality pump. For these reasons, I will NEVER run the H50 in my rig. I will stick with high end air or a quality loop.
 
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#14
I thought about that, and I didn't like the idea of not being able to check without modifying the thing either. Same idea with the pump depending on usage we don't know how long it will last.

I'm building a single loop for myself pretty soon so that I know every single component because I put it there lol. I don't remember what liquid they used in the H50, but I remember reading in the documentation something about it not evaporating.
=================================================================

@ Binge

........wow I could perform an operation in that case! Gorgeous cable management! :toast:

Kei
 

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#15
I thought about that, and I didn't like the idea of not being able to check without modifying the thing either. Same idea with the pump depending on usage we don't know how long it will last.

I'm building a single loop for myself pretty soon so that I know every single component because I put it there lol. I don't remember what liquid they used in the H50, but I remember reading in the documentation something about it not evaporating.

Kei
I don't think it is possible for it to not evaporate. I'm not trying to be argumentative. Just trying to steer you in a better direction. ;)
 
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#16
dont let them discourage you dude. my H50 is cooling my E8500 at 4.1GHZ 1.4v with max temps on IBT of 72c

because of the wierd stock NB cooler the H50 was pretty much the only thing that i could fit in on my MB that would give me decent cooling, and i have not been disappointed
 
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Binge

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#17
There's no contesting the results a compact single rad loop can create, but just read what we have to point out. If you can rest easy with your PC on, or leave the PC on while you step out to the corner store then I admit you have more balls than me when it comes to liquid cooling.
 
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#18
I don't think it is possible for it to not evaporate. I'm not trying to be argumentative. Just trying to steer you in a better direction. ;)
dont let them discourage you dude. my H50 is cooling my E8500 at 4.1GHZ 1.4v with max temps on IBT of 72c

because of the wierd stock NB cooler the H50 was pretty much the only thing that i could fit in on my MB that would give me decent cooling, and i have not been disappointed
Guys....I'm not buying and H50, I set one up and had some fun testing with one, but i'm not buying one to keep. I said I'm building a single rad single loop system pretty soon.

I know the H50 has awesome temp ability when you have it setup right (waterblock needed some lapping as well though I didn't test with that), I just want to build something else to have a bit of fun. To each his own, I don't condemn the H50 even though I do still think they should've made it possible to monitor fluid levels no matter what liquid they use inside it.

Kei
 

slugzkea

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#19
dont let them discourage you dude. my H50 is cooling my E8500 at 4.1GHZ 1.4v with max temps on IBT of 72c
That is a TERRIBLE result. I'm assuming your temps are that horrid because you fallowed the instructions on that useless, flawed manual that came with the device.

I own the H50, and I love it. It is a great cooler but the installation instructions are purely flawed. hear me out:

Other than the manual being very cloudy on installing the cpu bracket, the manual also clearly states that you're suppose to install that cpu bracket FIRST, and then screw the water block in after. What the hell is that? first of all, you're smeering the paste. That's a guarantee in high temps, or huge differentials in core temps. 2nd, if you're able to screw the water block into place, there obviously isn't enough pressure applied to properly transfer HEAT.

Now if you use the default thermal pad that came with the H50, heck there's enough paste on that you won't need any pressure to make any sort of contact. What I'm saying is, THERE'S WAY TOO MUCH PASTE!!! it took about 4 paper towels and a crap load of alcohol to remove all that paste. I used AS5 and the proper amount at that.

If you want the device to perform optimally, DO THIS:

CPU BLOCK INSTALL
1. install the back plate and the cpu bracket on the motherboard. Place the motherboard in the case, screw it all in. REMOVE THE CPU BRACKET. The back plate will stay in place by itself now that the motherboard is secured in the case.

2. REMOVE THAT CRAPPY THERMAL PAD!!! and use your own paste, a good one...like AS5. Paste your CPU.

3. Mount the cpu bracket to the cpu block, then position it on top of the CPU. Hold it firmly while you screw in the 4 holes evenly, as how you would with any other logical heatstink/block installation. No smearing paste, no uneven contact. This way, you know you're applying the right amount of pressure.

RAD INSTALL

1. Use the fresh air intake, do not use as an exhaust. Add a 2nd fan to the other side of the rad to assist in air intake (push pull). I use a antec tricool, which is rated 78CFM and 24 static pressure. Not bad, but good enough.

2. Screw everything tightly so there's no air leakage through the static pressure.

3. Make sure there is an exhaust near by since the rad will be pushing hot air into the case. My cosmos has the 20cm side fan for exhaust, so that works quite well.

And finally, disable any smart fan features so your pump and your rad will be at 100% at all times.

Results?

e8400 one of the first batches. my cpu is a crappy one. The default voltage OC Walled at 3.4ghz.

Final OC: 4ghz 1.55v, 1.52 LOAD (LLC OFF).

OCCT 3.1 infinite CPU burn 10 hours MAX TEMP 66c. Awesome.

The thermal paste hasn't even settled in yet cuz i just installed this about a week ago.

Use my method, and you're guaranteed lower temps since i'm using such high voltage.

I'll post a pic when i get home, at work now,

Enjoy.
 
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#20
Except use better fans, antec tricools are some of the worst out there.

If your on a budget use yate loon d12sm-12; if youve got some cash scythe S-flex
 
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#21
That is a TERRIBLE result. I'm assuming your temps are that horrid because you fallowed the instructions on that useless, flawed manual that came with the device.

I own the H50, and I love it. It is a great cooler but the installation instructions are purely flawed. hear me out:

Other than the manual being very cloudy on installing the cpu bracket, the manual also clearly states that you're suppose to install that cpu bracket FIRST, and then screw the water block in after. What the hell is that? first of all, you're smeering the paste. That's a guarantee in high temps, or huge differentials in core temps. 2nd, if you're able to screw the water block into place, there obviously isn't enough pressure applied to properly transfer HEAT.

Now if you use the default thermal pad that came with the H50, heck there's enough paste on that you won't need any pressure to make any sort of contact. What I'm saying is, THERE'S WAY TOO MUCH PASTE!!! it took about 4 paper towels and a crap load of alcohol to remove all that paste. I used AS5 and the proper amount at that.

If you want the device to perform optimally, DO THIS:

CPU BLOCK INSTALL
1. install the back plate and the cpu bracket on the motherboard. Place the motherboard in the case, screw it all in. REMOVE THE CPU BRACKET. The back plate will stay in place by itself now that the motherboard is secured in the case.

2. REMOVE THAT CRAPPY THERMAL PAD!!! and use your own paste, a good one...like AS5. Paste your CPU.

3. Mount the cpu bracket to the cpu block, then position it on top of the CPU. Hold it firmly while you screw in the 4 holes evenly, as how you would with any other logical heatstink/block installation. No smearing paste, no uneven contact. This way, you know you're applying the right amount of pressure.

RAD INSTALL

1. Use the fresh air intake, do not use as an exhaust. Add a 2nd fan to the other side of the rad to assist in air intake (push pull). I use a antec tricool, which is rated 78CFM and 24 static pressure. Not bad, but good enough.

2. Screw everything tightly so there's no air leakage through the static pressure.

3. Make sure there is an exhaust near by since the rad will be pushing hot air into the case. My cosmos has the 20cm side fan for exhaust, so that works quite well.

And finally, disable any smart fan features so your pump and your rad will be at 100% at all times.

Results?

e8400 one of the first batches. my cpu is a crappy one. The default voltage OC Walled at 3.4ghz.

Final OC: 4ghz 1.55v, 1.52 LOAD (LLC OFF).

OCCT 3.1 infinite CPU burn 10 hours MAX TEMP 66c. Awesome.

The thermal paste hasn't even settled in yet cuz i just installed this about a week ago.

Use my method, and you're guaranteed lower temps since i'm using such high voltage.

I'll post a pic when i get home, at work now,

Enjoy.
i like your idea on installing the waterblock/pump assy to maintain proper pressure and "settle" the paste evenly. i might have to do that this weekend.

but, i cant mount my h50 to an instake fan without reversing the airflow of my entire case. and, while doable...i am loathe do to it, as reversing my 200mm top fan to blow in would just rain all kinds of crap on all my components :p not to mentin blowing hot air directly on my NB
 
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#22
ROAR!!!! H50s are a terrible idea, Asetek is a horrid company, and the H50 is riding on Corsair's good name. This solution was available well before Corsair bought a bunch of these as an OEM to rebrand... ROAR!!! :rockout:
Asetek being a horrid company.........ehhh ....I have had Asetek Lightspeed previous and was very pleased with it...is´nt that statement a bit harsh?? I know that the lightspeed is´nt exactly the H50...but anyways
 
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#23
my condolences, you're one of the many many fools that have been hooked by water cooling made easy.

What are you talking about for the price they're amazing you crazy geezer :laugh:


50 quid here, comes with fan.

True 120 ex costs 50 quid here comes with no fan.


Considering they've pretty evenly matched in terms of performance surely its better to get one of these " water cooling made easy" solutions.

Price performance ratio is very important to binge!
 

Naekuh

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#24
my condolences, you're one of the many many fools that have been hooked by water cooling made easy.
:laugh:

:shadedshu

You're still stubborn about the H50 being meant to compete with real water cooling. :slap:
so how is it suposed to compete?


Yeah... the top is a LOT more expensive... but ur trying to class the H5O against a real H2O setup?
I even got corsair rep on AT to admit the H5O wasnt a REAL H2O setup.

OH how about it compete against this.. if you have a FRYS near ya...


That DD kit will STOMP the H5O... IF u can find it at frys.
 
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#25