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just bought a corsair h50

Binge

Overclocking Surrealism
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well I made sure I searched for thread titles with H50 in them. There are the two biggest threads "Disappointing H50 performance," and now this "just bought a corsair h50." Then all of the smaller threads are pretty much OMGWTFBBQ. Most of them end once someone shows the OP to the H50 club thread.
 
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Sounds like people having crazy expectations then, they see a watercooler and regardless of its size think " MUST BE GREAT" only to see its only as good as an decent air cooler must be disapointing for a lot of people I guess.


All solved with searching for reviews before you buy things though XD

They're own silly bugger faults.
 
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well I made sure I searched for thread titles with H50 in them. There are the two biggest threads "Disappointing H50 performance," and now this "just bought a corsair h50." Then all of the smaller threads are pretty much OMGWTFBBQ. Most of them end once someone shows the OP to the H50 club thread.
Make sure you plug in the Corsair H50's CPU fan pump to a continuous power source so it can run in maximum speed. I’ve noticed many people don’t plug in the pump in the proper location and there temps go up.

Most of the time the pump is the problem by beig plugged into the wrong place. It needs to run high speed all the time to get the best performance. You have to into the bios to set the fan speed to high. Also many people are not installing dual fans the right way. They need to be at least the same brand of fan or close enough.:p
 

poldo

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It's different with water because water can be more or less efficient depending on how much thermal mass is collected in the water. The further it is from room temperature when the water leaves the radiator then the worse the cooling becomes. You don't even want your radiator to feel warm. With good water cooling that rarely happens. There's so much surface area and air movement that the TDP never forces the water to radiate it's heat. The lower you try and keep the water temperature to ambient temp the more surface area/active cooling you need to catch what little heat is in the water and get it into the air. This is difficult, but that is the model behind WCing.

This and this one I bookmarked several months back is an interesting read (I read it several times just to understand what you meant, though. Once again, thanks.) Its a review about Danamic's initiative to use liquid metal and Nordic Hardware gave an interesting introduction to the principles of using liquid in cooling.

http://www.nordichardware.com/Reviews/?skrivelse=549&page=2

As with all kinds of cooling there are numerous variables to consider. Thermal conductivity and heat capacity of the materials are usually considered the two most important. The latter is referred to as specific heat capacity, or just ‘specific heat’ in physical and chemical terms. Among laymen it is simply referred to as heat capacity. Specific heat capacity is the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of a unit quantity by one degree. We will use the term ‘heat capacity’ to keep things simple even though it may not be the most scientifically correct.

Thermal conductivity is a materials ability to conduct heat, usually measured in Watts per meter and Kelvin. Both air and water have poor thermal conductivity, while water has good heat capacity. This is partly why water cooling works so well for computer cooling. It may not always lower your temperatures that much compared to good air cooling, but the amount of heat that can be absorbed by the water is so massive that it will give you more headroom and even allow you to overclock your gear and still stay in about the same temperature range.

With water cooling you need keep the liquid moving since the heat transfers poorly through medium. As long as you have a good flow it will compensate for the lower conductivity. In theory you can actually use a medium that has both poor capacity and poor conductivity if the flow rate is sufficient and the contact surface between the medium and the heat exchanger is great enough. Another great thing about water is that is dirt cheap and easily accessible, while the kit can often be upgraded when needed.

There's a table that shows thermal conductivity and thermal capacity of water, copper and aluminum in case you're interested. I hope this isn't derailing the topic as I just wanted to share this with everyone. :toast:
 

Binge

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Not at all, it's part of the reason I am adamant about "go big or go home" water cooling because that's what really taught me why a 9x120mm radiator is so fantastic. It also taught me how someone could use a 500 gallon drum as a reservoir and never used a radiator. I pretty much think the OP got his share of tons of info from this thread :D
 

Kei

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Not at all, it's part of the reason I am adamant about "go big or go home" water cooling because that's what really taught me why a 9x120mm radiator is so fantastic. It also taught me how someone could use a 500 gallon drum as a reservoir and never used a radiator. I pretty much think the OP got his share of tons of info from this thread :D

You have officially hurt my head with thoughts like those... :twitch:

Kei
 

Binge

Overclocking Surrealism
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You have officially hurt my head with thoughts like those... :twitch:

Kei

Just for you I'll post it again.



That's my setup in November.
 
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