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laptop dc jack solder

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#1
How difficult is it to solder on a new one? I have the laptop all apart with the new jack I've just never soldered anything this fragile before. Any tips would be welcomed or personal experience.
 
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#2
Just use as much soldering flux as possible and be very careful and don't panic while doing the job. After finishing the process, clean the flux with Iso-Propyl Alcohol and make it good as new. :)
 
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#3
I've done this on a dell with a successful outcome. You need to watch videos and get the correct tools to disassemble the laptop first. Also get a replacement jack, some quality lead solder, some flux (or solder with flux core) and one of those tools to remove excess solder.

Having said that, more solder is probably better than less as long as you are neat and don't short anything by accident. We literally had to rip the old socket off the board on our dell and I didn't expect it to work again but it did. Do your research - good luck!
 

de.das.dude

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#4
First of all you need a steady hand and experience.
thats a must for any soldering.

and if you are doing the latops female connector make sure you use the pointed tip. preheat and apply a bit of solder on the leads of the jack. this will make it easy for you. use flux if necessary.

it will be helpful if someone is there to hold the jack in place while you are soldering it. if you are *forever alone.jpg* then use some sort of clip.
 
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#5
I've done this on a dell with a successful outcome. You need to watch videos and get the correct tools to disassemble the laptop first. Also get a replacement jack, some quality lead solder, some flux (or solder with flux core) and one of those tools to remove excess solder.

Having said that, more solder is probably better than less as long as you are neat and don't short anything by accident. We literally had to rip the old socket off the board on our dell and I didn't expect it to work again but it did. Do your research - good luck!
Good luck finding lead solder in the store.
 

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#6
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#7
Most solder is lead free now.

On July 1, 2006 the European Union Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive (WEEE) and Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive (RoHS) came into effect prohibiting the intentional addition of lead to most consumer electronics produced in the EU. Manufacturers in the U.S. may receive tax benefits by reducing the use of lead-based solder. Lead-free solders in commercial use may contain tin, copper, silver, bismuth, indium, zinc, antimony, and traces of other metals. Most lead-free replacements for conventional Sn60/Pb40 and Sn63/Pb37 solder have melting points from 5 to 20 °C higher,[9] though solders with much lower melting points are available.

Drop-in replacements for silkscreen with solder paste soldering operations are available. Minor modification to the solder pots (e.g. titanium liners or impellers) used in wave-soldering operations may be desired to reduce maintenance costs associated with the increased tin-scavenging effects of high tin solders. Since the properties of lead-free solders are not as thoroughly known, they may therefore be considered less desirable for critical applications, like certain aerospace or medical projects. "Tin whiskers" were a problem with early electronic solders, and lead was initially added to the alloy in part to eliminate them.

Sn-Ag-Cu (Tin-Silver-Copper) solders are used by two thirds of Japanese manufacturers for reflow and wave soldering, and by about 75% of companies for hand soldering. The widespread use of this popular lead-free solder alloy family is based on the reduced melting point of the Sn-Ag-Cu ternary eutectic behavior (217 ˚C), which is below the Sn-3.5Ag (wt.%) eutectic of 221 °C and the Sn-0.7Cu eutectic of 227 °C (recently revised by P. Snugovsky to Sn-0.9Cu). The ternary eutectic behavior of Sn-Ag-Cu and its application for electronics assembly was discovered (and patented) by a team of researchers from Ames Laboratory, Iowa State University, and from Sandia National Laboratories-Albuquerque.

Much recent research has focused on selection of 4th element additions to Sn-Ag-Cu to provide compatibility for the reduced cooling rate of solder sphere reflow for assembly of ball grid arrays, e.g., Sn-3.5Ag-0.74Cu-0.21Zn (melting range of 217–220 ˚C) and Sn-3.5Ag-0.85Cu-0.10Mn (melting range of 211–215 ˚C).

Tin-based solders readily dissolve gold, forming brittle intermetallics; for Sn-Pb alloys the critical concentration of gold to embrittle the joint is about 4%. Indium-rich solders (usually indium-lead) are more suitable for soldering thicker gold layer as the dissolution rate of gold in indium is much slower. Tin-rich solders also readily dissolve silver; for soldering silver metallization or surfaces, alloys with addition of silvers are suitable; tin-free alloys are also a choice, though their wettability is poorer. If the soldering time is long enough to form the intermetallics, the tin surface of a joint soldered to gold is very dull.[10]
 
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#8
I'm hoping I can still source some in the UK when I next need to do a decent job, but yes, tricky!
 
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#9
I'm hoping I can still source some in the UK when I next need to do a decent job, but yes, tricky!
Good luck man. I found out first hand how much more pliable lead solder is then lead free solder about a year ago. Thankfully my old man still had some reels left over I could use. I ended up replacing the PCB in the end but the lead held out FAR better then the lead free did until the replacement came in.
 
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#10
Also, not all DC jacks are soldered in place. Around six months ago I replaced the jack in my uncle's laptop and all I had to do was plug it in.
 
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#11
Well the laptop is already apart with the motherboard out, also it is SOLDERED in place. I guess this is a good time to buy a good soldering station. Anyone have recommendations for all the equipment i will need for this project.
 
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#12
If you are looking for a station, the Hakko 936 is a solid choice, but a cheap Radioshack iron will get the job done.

Iron
Solder w/ flux
Desoldering braid

Pretty much all you need.
 

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#13
i would advice you again, to try your hands on something else.

soldering can be a bit tricky in itself and everyone has their own way.


i myself have been soldering for 8 years now and have finally perfected it :)
 
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#15

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#16

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