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Laser Printer With High (Initial) Current Draw - Any Way To Buffer?

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Hey Guys. I have a small laser printer (Brother HL-2270DW) which has an uncomfortable amount of initial current draw when first powered on. My wall meter only shows a max of 950 watts (8 amps), but apparently it's enough of a sudden jolt to momentarily set off multiple UPS's in my apartment and cause a change in the lights. It's also very likely that my wall meter isn't refreshing fast enough to show the true momentary max draw (the spec sheet says it updates only once per second). Separately, a Dyson vacuum measuring 10 amps at the wall does NOT cause the same problem, though it appears to take a few seconds to ramp up to full draw.

I'm in a 50-60 year old building, but I expect the wiring is fairly decent. The breaker panels look brand new (though they were changed before I got here 10 years ago), so some amount of updating has been done relatively recently. I have a 100 amp main to my unit, and a mixture of 15 and 20 amp circuits. The printer will cause this behavior even when there is near-zero load elsewhere.

In any case, in-wall wiring is beyond my control, so please don't suggest nonsense like telling the landlord to gut and re-wire the whole building. Barring that, is there any sort of relatively cheap/easy method to buffer the brief initial current draw??
 

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Plug it in to a different circuit?

You can use the breakers and a light to isolate outlets to circuits. If power fluctuations on one circuit cause problems on another circuit...then the current coming into the panel might not be as strong as it needs to be.
 
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That can't be normal, I have had multiple laser printers over the years and none have ever done anything like that. It might be because of a faulty power supply in it, or something else that's wrong.
 
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A ups or a good line conditioner maybe? Any circuit with a big capacitor (see capacitive power supplies) would probably work.
 
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At first i thought it must be a big printer, but then i googled and was like, something like that cant consume initially like 8 amps on 110/220V. Something else is up.
 

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Laser printers have an insane initial power draw, but it isn't going to hurt anything because it happens so quickly. The only thing I've ever heard it hurting was UPSes if the printer was plugged into the UPS. The high initial current flowing through the UPS can damage them.

I had it happen when I moved into my home that was built in the 1960s. All my UPSes would go off when I printed something on either of my two laser printers(one Samsung and one Brother). Putting both printers on a good surge protector actually helped a lot. The USPes no longer go alert when I printer most of the time, but the lights still flicker a little.

If the laser printer turning on is causing lights to flicker throughout your entire house, then even putting the printer on its own circuit isn't really going to help. The issue is likely the feed coming into the house can't adapt to the sudden current spike from the printer. I think most draw 1100-1200w(10-11A) when they first turn on. This will cause a voltage dip until the transformer outside the house can adjust. This is also why your vacuum doesn't cause the same issue even though it is drawing 10A as well. It doesn't go from 0 to 10A instantly like a laser printer does, so the voltage has time to adjust to the power draw.

That can't be normal, I have had multiple laser printers over the years and none have ever done anything like that. It might be because of a faulty power supply in it, or something else that's wrong.
It's pretty normal in countries with 110v power. And it's become way more noticeable now that we live in a world of LED lights.
 
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It's pretty normal in countries with 110v power. And it's become way more noticeable now that we live in a world of LED lights.
I live in a 115V country (110V isn't really used anywhere anymore, just like 220V) and only have LED lights, not having this issue when I fire up my Samsung laser printer.
 
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Plug it in to a different circuit? ........ If power fluctuations on one circuit cause problems on another circuit...then the current coming into the panel might not be as strong as it needs to be.
The circuits aren't labeled at the breaker box, but I do know that the outlet for the A/C is isolated on its own circuit. Powering up the printer on the A/C outlet does NOT cause issues on other circuits, so at least it's not crossing over. Unfortunately the only two circuits which are reasonably accessible to the printer are also powering PCs, UPS's, and plenty of electronics. Relocating the printer to a yet-further circuit isn't possible, and I'm also not going to run a 25ft+ extension cord. At least not as a permanent solution.

A ups or a good line conditioner maybe? Any circuit with a big capacitor (see capacitive power supplies) would probably work.
Please explain further. Googling "capacitive power supply" quickly got deep into electrical design discussion (over my head), and didn't really net any useful products.
 
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Laser printers have an insane initial power draw, but it isn't going to hurt anything because it happens so quickly.
^^^This^^^

If you look at your user guide on page 126, it says the instantaneous peak power consumption for your printer is 1,056W! So you are actually under. :)

My wall meter only shows a max of 950 watts (8 amps), but apparently it's enough of a sudden jolt to momentarily set off multiple UPS's in my apartment and cause a change in the lights.
Setting off your other UPS and causing the lights to flicker would give me some concern (though not panic). You may just have the sensitivity on your UPS set too low.

I recommend you make sure your apartment wiring is correct. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, report it to your apartment manager to have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

If all your outlets are properly wired, then I would not worry about it (and consider an ink jet next time if concerned).

BTW, almost every UPS I've seen says do NOT connect a laser printer to it - and that is just because of that initial power demand. Remember, toner is set by heat. And to keep owners from complaining about the excessive times needed to print the first page of print jobs, designers make sure they heat up quickly - and that takes a lot of power.
 
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^ I do have an outlet tester, and checked everything shortly after moving in. Aside from one of the outlets having hot & neutral reversed (now corrected), everything is good. I have a long-standing disdain for inkjet printers, so that isn't happening.

It does seem like some sort of capacitor could be a solution (much like what you see in cars which have sound systems), but I don't know if such a thing exists for 120v AC, much less at any decent price. The easiest hack solution is to plug into the A/C outlet with an extension cord and then unplug when not in use, but that's alot of screwing around.
 
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But you are suggesting solutions for a problem that really does not exist. As noted by your manual and your wall outlet meter, that printer is not drawing too much current.

Did you check the sensitivity settings for your other UPSs? I note on the APC UPS connected to this machine, I can easily adjust the sensitivity from its PowerChute monitoring program. For my older APC, there are DIP (tiny toggle) switches on the back I can easily change.

You said you had one outlet that was wired with reversed polarity. I note such a configuration would automatically flip a circuit breaker, unless the ground wire was disconnected too. I am assuming that was corrected when the outlet was repaired, but I wonder if you other outlets have a proper path the Earth ground?
 

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The circuits aren't labeled at the breaker box, but I do know that the outlet for the A/C is isolated on its own circuit. Powering up the printer on the A/C outlet does NOT cause issues on other circuits, so at least it's not crossing over. Unfortunately the only two circuits which are reasonably accessible to the printer are also powering PCs, UPS's, and plenty of electronics. Relocating the printer to a yet-further circuit isn't possible, and I'm also not going to run a 25ft+ extension cord. At least not as a permanent solution.
You're overloading the circuit. You need to reduce the load on it one way or another.
 
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Relocating the printer to a yet-further circuit isn't possible
The 2270DW is a wireless device. Moving it to a different, less loaded circuit may be your own option.
 
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But you are suggesting solutions for a problem that really does not exist. As noted by your manual and your wall outlet meter, that printer is not drawing too much current.

Did you check the sensitivity settings for your other UPSs? I note on the APC UPS connected to this machine, I can easily adjust the sensitivity from its PowerChute monitoring program. For my older APC, there are DIP (tiny toggle) switches on the back I can easily change.

You said you had one outlet that was wired with reversed polarity. I note such a configuration would automatically flip a circuit breaker, unless the ground wire was disconnected too. I am assuming that was corrected when the outlet was repaired, but I wonder if you other outlets have a proper path the Earth ground?
Yeah, but I don't really care whether it falls within the manual's spec. I'm seeing undesired operation, and therefore it's a problem. I have a significant amount of high-value electronics including audio equipment connected, and I don't want to add even the smallest risk of problems due to a printer. All outlets have proper ground.
You're overloading the circuit. You need to reduce the load on it one way or another.
As noted above, I've tested with virtually zero load, and still saw the same behavior. It's not the overall load, otherwise the breaker would be popping.
The 2270DW is a wireless device.
Indeed, but the other options are the bathroom or my bedroom. I'd like to explore my other options and hear possible suggestions first.
 

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It's not the overall load, otherwise the breaker would be popping.
Breaker could be defective but I doubt it because the problem isn't too much power, it's not enough.

I wonder if the breaker is actually too high for the cables installed in the wall. If it is, that's a potential fire hazard.

Regardless, the easiest solution is to move it to a different circuit. There might be two circuits in that room. Like I said, use the breakers and a lamp to figure out which are wired to which.
 
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I wonder if the breaker is actually too high for the cables installed in the wall.
He's only pulling 8A. Even if his apartment is 50 years old, the code back then stated they all should handle 15A.

This is just an annoyance. It is NOT a technical problem or safety issue.
I have a significant amount of high-value electronics including audio equipment connected,
I understand. I live in Tornado Alley so I am very conscience about protecting my equipment from power anomalies too. That's why I have an UPS on all my computer and my home theater and big screen TV too.

I'll ask again - did you check the sensitivity settings of your UPSs?

As far as other options, I don't see any other than (1) Locating the printer in your bedroom or (2) getting your landlord to add more outlets on new circuits, or (3) moving.
 

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Good point. How many outlets are on that one circuit and what is plugged into them?
 

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I'll ask again - did you check the sensitivity settings of your UPSs?
Some (like the UPS for my home theater) aren't connected to a PC to allow for the adjustment. In any case, my issue isn't so much that the UPS's are switching, but rather that they're detecting enough of a power anomaly to trigger them. Loosening the sensitivty doesn't solve anything, it just masks it.

Anyhow, it feels like we keep going around in circles here. I figured someone might have something to suggest, but if it's just going to be me trying to argue the merits of my concern, maybe this thread is done.
 
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an apartment 50 years old or so could have been remodeled at some point and had wiring updated. ONE way is to check is to pull an outlet and see what the wiring is wrapped with, if its 3 wire and wrapped in a white plastic, thats good to go. after that talk to your landlord about this as there could problems farther up the line and a potential fire hazard
 
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Storage C:\SSD (240GB), D:\Seagate (2TB), E:\Western Digital (1TB)
Display(s) 1x Nixeus NX_EDG27, 2x Dell S2440L (16:9)
Case Phanteks Enthoo Primo w/8 140mm SP Fans
Audio Device(s) onboard (realtek?) SPKRS:Logitech Z623 200w 2.1
Power Supply Corsair HX1000i
Mouse Logitech G700s
Keyboard Logitech G910 Orion Spark
Software windows 10
Benchmark Scores https://i.imgur.com/aoz3vWY.jpg?2
that explains the lights dimming. :banghead:
 
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