• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

Logitech G5 restoration and tweaks

Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
3,291 (1.74/day)
Likes
3,260
Location
Kiev, Ukraine
System Name Evil Midget
Processor i3-6100
Motherboard MSI B150I PRO AC
Cooling Noctua NH-L9i
Memory 2x8GB Kinkston HyperX DDR4-2133 CL14
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX1060 SC 6G
Storage Samsung XP941, Sandisk X400 512GB
Display(s) Samsung U24E590D (4K/UHD)
Case LianLi Q11B
Audio Device(s) Int.
Power Supply SeaSonic 450W 80+ GOLD
Mouse Logitech G503
Keyboard Zalman K500 modded (Gateron brown)
Software Windows 10
#1
Greetings, fellow TPUers!

In celebration of upcoming summer, and as a preliminary preparation for Quake Champions release, I have decided to restore the most legendary best gaming super-mouse ever (besides an old-school MS Intellimouse): Logitech G5.

This is what it looked like an hour ago:

IMAG1336.jpg IMAG1337.jpg IMAG1338.jpg

It's a 9y.o. mouse with the last maintenance done about 2 years ago. USB cable have been previously replaced to a sturdier one, generously donated by a semi-decent chinese gaming mouse. The rest is 100% original (including switches).

As you can see, there is some wear on the top surface, lots of dirt, grime and besides obvious visual defects it also suffers from a non-working MB4/MB5, malfunctioning scroll wheel and jumpy laser. Also, there are no teflon sliders on the bottom. Instead, those placement pads are also filled with dirt :banghead:

The main goal of this thread is to fix the damn thing, and give you some insight if you want to attempt a similar project on the same or maybe even a totally different mouse. It's all easy, cheap and takes very little time.

Let's start.

DISASSEMBLY

First, we need to remove all bottom screws and take off the top part. With G5 it's a bit tricky and counterintuitive: you need to pry it from the very front of the housing, right where the USB cable latches between two parts.
IMAG1339.jpg

For over 2 years this mouse was without maintenance, so just try to imagine what's going on inside :shadedshu:
I was expecting it to be bad, but I did not expect it to be that bad!
IMAG1340.jpg IMAG1341.jpg IMAG1342.jpg
Next, we remove a couple of screws and detach the weight cartridge. Also, we can take that nasty scrollwheel out by removing the front screw.
Two more screws (Top right and bottom middle), and the mainboard pops out with a cable, lens assy and a tiny spring.

IMAG1344.jpg IMAG1346.jpg
Now, we can finally clean the bottom housing. I'm using dish soap and warm water, followed by a thorough isopropyl cleaning.
IMAG1345.jpg

....to be continued in the next post...
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
3,291 (1.74/day)
Likes
3,260
Location
Kiev, Ukraine
System Name Evil Midget
Processor i3-6100
Motherboard MSI B150I PRO AC
Cooling Noctua NH-L9i
Memory 2x8GB Kinkston HyperX DDR4-2133 CL14
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX1060 SC 6G
Storage Samsung XP941, Sandisk X400 512GB
Display(s) Samsung U24E590D (4K/UHD)
Case LianLi Q11B
Audio Device(s) Int.
Power Supply SeaSonic 450W 80+ GOLD
Mouse Logitech G503
Keyboard Zalman K500 modded (Gateron brown)
Software Windows 10
#2
Next, we disassemble the top part
IMAG1351.jpg IMAG1352.jpg
All parts definitely have to undergo the same cleaning process: soap+water, then isopropyl.

PREPARATIONS, INSPECTION AND TWEAKS

This part relates only to this particular mouse, but anyway.... let's look at the mainboard again:
IMAG1346_ed.jpg

- If your backlight is broken, or you want to remove the backlight, those LEDs on the right are the ones to mess with. There is no easy way to stick RGB backlight, or even replace them with a different color, because the transparent plastic on the bottom is orange. The only exception for G5 is if you put blue LEDs, it will make the backlight "something between magenta and purple".
- If you have faulty LMB/RMB or the side button, you can replace those, but it will take some labor and effort.
All three of those are Omron D2FC-F-7N. In order to replace those you will need to detach both PCBs from each other, which means you'll need a soldering iron, flux, solder pump, desoldering wick and lots of patience. Before you attempt this, try simply washing those switches with lots of isopropyl and click a few dozen times before it evaporates. All of my broken switches came back to life almost immediately.
- Four other switches are also Omron-made (B3FS series). Those are SMD mounted and can be replaced without separating two mainboard PCBs.
- The middle switch is the trickiest one. It's very hard to find replacement, and it is hard to de-solder in case of failure. However, if you have a hot air rework station, you can remove it without separating two PCBs, and you can replace it with a taller switch (like those generic buttons some of you buy for Arduino projects). The only modifications you'll need to perform is flatten all four feet of the switch, solder it in place and remove(clip) the push pin from the scroll wheel.

Links to proper replacement parts:

Omron D3F
Omron B3FS

Just remember - buy from a trusted electronics parts retailer. E.g. go to DigiKey or Arrow, not eBay or Amazon. There are tons of fake Omron switches, or no-name compatible switches which break after 2-3 sessions of Dota or worse.

In regards to tweaks... There is at least one very useful thing you can do right away. Both PCBs of the mainboard are only connected on one side, so over time the LMB starts to feel a bit loose and wobbly due to PCB flexing. All you need is to put a rubber pad on the loose side and it's good for a few more years.
IMAG1347.jpg

Now it's time to clean the scroll wheel assembly.
First, we pop the wheel out of the frame and carefully disassemble it. The scroll wheel in this mouse is optical, so we need to make sure that all sensor holes are 100% clear for smooth operation.
Also remember, that there is a single ball bearing inside the wheel. Don't lose it, cause that is a part of a mechanism that makes it "click" and keeps it in place.
I would also like to say that if you want to go all-in on cleaning, do not under any circumstances remove the rubber "tire" from the wheel. I did it, and f%$ed it up badly (definitely needs a replacement). :banghead:

IMAG1350.jpg

After a nice isopropyl bath you can put it together. Just don't forget the lube :laugh: (preferably non-liquid type)
Now we can assemble the bottom part and all of the electronics back together and put it aside for awhile...
IMAG1349.jpg

LET'S TALK 'BOUT PRETTY THINGS

All we have left, is to do something about that cleaned up, but still ugly top part.
IMAG1354.jpg IMAG1355.jpg

First, I did smooth it out with some fine sandpaper (had a leftover 1000 grit piece)
Second, you need to give it another cleaning and let it dry for a few minutes.

And now, the most interesting part!
IMAG1363.jpg
... in the next post... :laugh:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
3,291 (1.74/day)
Likes
3,260
Location
Kiev, Ukraine
System Name Evil Midget
Processor i3-6100
Motherboard MSI B150I PRO AC
Cooling Noctua NH-L9i
Memory 2x8GB Kinkston HyperX DDR4-2133 CL14
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX1060 SC 6G
Storage Samsung XP941, Sandisk X400 512GB
Display(s) Samsung U24E590D (4K/UHD)
Case LianLi Q11B
Audio Device(s) Int.
Power Supply SeaSonic 450W 80+ GOLD
Mouse Logitech G503
Keyboard Zalman K500 modded (Gateron brown)
Software Windows 10
#3
That orange thing above is a piece of vinyl sticker. You can buy this crap for mere pennies in any hobby shop, on ebay (yep, this is relatively safe to buy on eBay, unlike "genuine" Omron switches). I know, orange looks ugly on its own, but I had a plan!!! Just in case I bought an extra piece of black vinyl, but the way it looks now is much better than I expected.

For this procedure you'll need a pair of hands and a hot air gun (or your wife's hair dryer, if you are short on tools).

First, we start applying vinyl to the topmost piece of the mouse housing and start stretching the vinyl, while periodically applying heat to it. It won't be perfect the first time, but if you mess it up, you can either heat up that area, peel and stretch it again. If you have small air bubbles - just puncture it with a needle and apply some heat: it will disappear in front of your eyes.

The final touch: cut the leftovers with a scalpel, paper knife or a box cutter.

The end result should look like this:
IMAG1356.jpg

And when we put it all together, it looks even more awesome:
IMAG1357.jpg

Now, we can put it all together, and add a final touch: a pair of brand-new mouse shoes!
IMAG1358.jpg IMAG1359.jpg

Now, I'm totally ready for another round of Quake Champions beta, and my G5 does not look like it just came out of the dumpster.

IMAG1361.jpg IMAG1360.jpg

Thank you for your attention!
 
Last edited:

infrared

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
4,570 (0.92/day)
Likes
2,362
Location
Southampton, UK
System Name Raisin
Processor Ryzen 7 1800X
Motherboard Asus prime B350 (Crosshair VI Hero swapped out temporarily)
Cooling 2x 240mm rads, Corsair ML fans, EKWB pump/res and GPU block. XSPC Raystorm pro CPU block
Memory G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-4266 16GB @ 3333MHz CL14 1T
Video Card(s) EVGA 1080Ti FE. WC'd & TDP limit increased to 360W. 2076mhz/6200mhz
Storage Samsung 960 Evo 500GB + Corsair 120GB ssd (linux) + WD Black 2TB storage drive.
Display(s) Asus ROG Swift PG278QR 27" 1440P 165hz Gsync
Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
Audio Device(s) Phillips Fidelio X2 headphones / basic Bose speakers
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 750W G3
Mouse Logitech G602
Keyboard Cherry MX Board 6.0
Software Win 10 & Linux Mint 18.3
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/infrared
#4
The reserved posts are ok, you can also beat it by uploading everything via http://www.techpowerup.org/ and then inserting them into your post.

I'll be watching with interest, if you do a rubbish job I might have to abuse my mod powers to punish you! :nutkick: :laugh: No pressure!
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
3,291 (1.74/day)
Likes
3,260
Location
Kiev, Ukraine
System Name Evil Midget
Processor i3-6100
Motherboard MSI B150I PRO AC
Cooling Noctua NH-L9i
Memory 2x8GB Kinkston HyperX DDR4-2133 CL14
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX1060 SC 6G
Storage Samsung XP941, Sandisk X400 512GB
Display(s) Samsung U24E590D (4K/UHD)
Case LianLi Q11B
Audio Device(s) Int.
Power Supply SeaSonic 450W 80+ GOLD
Mouse Logitech G503
Keyboard Zalman K500 modded (Gateron brown)
Software Windows 10
#5
Phew... it took me more time to write the damn thing than to fix the mouse itself!
I'm gonna go get some coffee. :toast:
 

infrared

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
4,570 (0.92/day)
Likes
2,362
Location
Southampton, UK
System Name Raisin
Processor Ryzen 7 1800X
Motherboard Asus prime B350 (Crosshair VI Hero swapped out temporarily)
Cooling 2x 240mm rads, Corsair ML fans, EKWB pump/res and GPU block. XSPC Raystorm pro CPU block
Memory G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-4266 16GB @ 3333MHz CL14 1T
Video Card(s) EVGA 1080Ti FE. WC'd & TDP limit increased to 360W. 2076mhz/6200mhz
Storage Samsung 960 Evo 500GB + Corsair 120GB ssd (linux) + WD Black 2TB storage drive.
Display(s) Asus ROG Swift PG278QR 27" 1440P 165hz Gsync
Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
Audio Device(s) Phillips Fidelio X2 headphones / basic Bose speakers
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 750W G3
Mouse Logitech G602
Keyboard Cherry MX Board 6.0
Software Win 10 & Linux Mint 18.3
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/infrared
#6
Nice job, vinyl is a good idea, should be pretty hard wearing.

Next job: kick ass in Quake! :rockout:
 
Top