Looking for a replacement water-pump

[ShadowXP]

I'm the happy owner of a Thermaltake Kandalf LCS-case, but there is one detail on it that I don't like: The water-pump. True, it moves coolant well enough (rated at 500l/h, no idea if that's real or not), but it also loud as hell. And although sound doesn't bother me much, it's getting annoying.

So here's my question: What would be a good replacement-pump? For now, that's the only thing I'll swap out. Which also mean that I'm looking for a pump with 3/8" connectors since I can't be arsed to swap the CPU-block and radiator. I also realize that in doing this I need to get a water-tank as well since the stock set is pump and tank combined. Both the tank and the pump should be able to handle future expansion (Chipset/GPU etc).

So, any tips?

 

[Grings]

Laing DDC would be your best bet, you can get custom tops that take any sized barbs (though the standard connectors are already 3/8) plus you can get resevoir/top combo's

Pump
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=40_101&products_id=44

tops:
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=40_102

sorry about the uk shops, i dont know any in norway

 

[Wile E]

For a pump, get a Laing DDC-1 or DDC-3. Now, if you want to keep the tank and pump together, get a replacement top w/built in res, to go along with it. If you go seperate, I like the Swiftech MicroRes.

These links are just for reference. I'm not sure where you could buy them in your country.
Pumps: http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddc1mcin12.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html

Replacement tops w/reservoir: I just bought this one--->http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=22629

or

These 2 together
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=4506
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=4507

or

Just go with a separate res:

I use this on my second loop--->http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmchire.html

But the res is down to personal preference. There are tons to choose from.

 

[ShadowXP]

Thanks for the answers

I can get both a DDC-1T and the MCRES-MICRO from one of the stores here in Norway for about $160, so that's no biggie. Might get them from shops outside of Norway, since computer parts (like everything else) is hideously expensive here).

Was also thinking about creating a secondary loop for the vidcard/chipset through two Y-splits but retaining a single intake/outtake for the coolant for the res/rad. Any thoughts about creating a secondary loop for the vidcard/chipset vs. bridging those into the primary loop in terms of cooling-efficiency and other pro's/con's? Not sure if this would be a good idea at all, but if done right it could look somewhat cool.

 

[Wile E]

Thanks for the answers

I can get both a DDC-1T and the MCRES-MICRO from one of the stores here in Norway for about $160, so that's no biggie. Might get them from shops outside of Norway, since computer parts (like everything else) is hideously expensive here).

Was also thinking about creating a secondary loop for the vidcard/chipset through two Y-splits but retaining a single intake/outtake for the coolant for the res/rad. Any thoughts about creating a secondary loop for the vidcard/chipset vs. bridging those into the primary loop in terms of cooling-efficiency and other pro's/con's? Not sure if this would be a good idea at all, but if done right it could look somewhat cool.

Unless you run 2 rads, it's not worth the effort. It will hamper flow.

 

[ShadowXP]

Thanks

Last question (maybe): Ethylene Glycol vs distilled water? Heard good and bad things about both.

 

[largon]

Use pure distilled water with no additives. Nothing grows out of nothing.
Ethylene glycol has no use whatsoever unless one was going to chill the liquid below freezing.

 

[intel igent]

Use pure distilled water with no additives. Nothing grows out of nothing.
Ethylene glycol has no use whatsoever unless one was going to chill the liquid below freezing.

i use glycol in my mix for its anti-corrosive properties.

i mix 90% distilled water with 10% glycol

 

[ShadowXP]

Currently my system is running on the stuff that came with the case (Thermaltake Kandalf LCS). What I've noticed, though, is what looks like mist in the coolant-pipes. Not sure what it is, or if it's affecting cooling-performance. So far it haven't seemed to.

Could it be something as silly as the coolant attacking the pvc coolant-lines? And are there any special precautions I should take when switching to a different type of coolant (rinsing the system etc)?

 

[largon]

intel igent,
Pure glycol (ethylene or propylene) feature no properties that inhibit corrosion. Automotive antifreeze-products have other anticorrosive agents in them though.
Anyways, isn't your loop all-copper (and brass rad)?

 

[intel igent]

intel igent,
Pure glycol (ethylene or propylene) feature no properties that inhibit corrosion. Automotive antifreeze-products have other anticorrosive agents in them though.
Anyways, isn't your loop all-copper (and brass rad)?

excuse me for confusing you, i use a mix of 90% distilled water and 10% automotive antifreeze.

you still get corrosion and organic growth (however minimum) when running a loop for extended amounts of time (2.5yrs for me) regardless of the metals being similar or not.

 

[ShadowXP]

Well, had a rather nasty suprise happen to me today. Was doing some work in Corel Painter, and noticed a funny smell in the room where I keep my geektoys. I glance down at CoreTemp (which I always keep running in the background, just to satisfy my own curiosity) and saw temps fluctuating between their normal 18 to 22c. There was also a strange sound coming from my comp, but I didn't pay attention to it. Until it stopped, that is, and I got the same feeling parents get when the house suddenly goes silent. You just KNOW something bad is happening.

Well, my plans to get a new pump and tank has just been put into immediate effect. Luckily there were no leaks, but the pump has gone over to the eternal pumping-grounds (aka tagged-on-the-toe dead). Good thing I have a spare fan-cooler lying around. Going to rip the guts out of my gamebox tomorrow and pull out the old pump and tank, the waterblock and the tubes, plus disassemble the front door to get the radiator out. Much easier to drain the system that way. Sad fact is that I can't get new parts until next week, though, since that's when my paycheck comes in. Whee, I hate norwegian computer-parts prices, and the fact that there's only one shop that has the gear that I'm after (DDC-1T and a Swifttec Microres).

Starting to not like Thermaltake right now, since the system isn't even a full year old (bought it about 10 months ago). Returning it under warranty is a no-go, since it came as part of the Kandalf LCS-set. Getting an RMA on the pump alone won't be possible from my parts-pusher, as they will only RMA the complete case.

Not sure if I've asked this question before (here's a chocolate muffin for reading through my usual long-winded and rather meaningless post), but should I run distilled water through the system before refilling, in order to get any residue from the old coolant out?

 

[Wile E]

Well, had a rather nasty suprise happen to me today. Was doing some work in Corel Painter, and noticed a funny smell in the room where I keep my geektoys. I glance down at CoreTemp (which I always keep running in the background, just to satisfy my own curiosity) and saw temps fluctuating between their normal 18 to 22c. There was also a strange sound coming from my comp, but I didn't pay attention to it. Until it stopped, that is, and I got the same feeling parents get when the house suddenly goes silent. You just KNOW something bad is happening.

Well, my plans to get a new pump and tank has just been put into immediate effect. Luckily there were no leaks, but the pump has gone over to the eternal pumping-grounds (aka tagged-on-the-toe dead). Good thing I have a spare fan-cooler lying around. Going to rip the guts out of my gamebox tomorrow and pull out the old pump and tank, the waterblock and the tubes, plus disassemble the front door to get the radiator out. Much easier to drain the system that way. Sad fact is that I can't get new parts until next week, though, since that's when my paycheck comes in. Whee, I hate norwegian computer-parts prices, and the fact that there's only one shop that has the gear that I'm after (DDC-1T and a Swifttec Microres).

Starting to not like Thermaltake right now, since the system isn't even a full year old (bought it about 10 months ago). Returning it under warranty is a no-go, since it came as part of the Kandalf LCS-set. Getting an RMA on the pump alone won't be possible from my parts-pusher, as they will only RMA the complete case.

Not sure if I've asked this question before (here's a chocolate muffin for reading through my usual long-winded and rather meaningless post), but should I run distilled water through the system before refilling, in order to get any residue from the old coolant out?

Sorry to hear it. The pump is one of the most common complaints about Thermaltake h20 systems. Cheap bastards. :shadedshu They could've at least used DDC's or something.

Anyway, yeah, it's always a good idea to flush your parts before you reassemble them.

 

[philbrown23]

yeah a good pump makes no soundd (or very little).and you could split you loop if you go a liang D5 wich pushes more fluid and has a little more head pressure, I'm running 2 liang D5's for my huge loop but it ran quite well with just 1

 

[ShadowXP]

Going to order a new fan-based cooler today to have something until I can dish out the money for new parts. Pump, tank and coolant will set me back close to $150 if not above that, and my better half will quite frankly kill me in a very violent and highly unfriendly way if I do that right now

The upside of all this is that I can once and for all sort out some cable-management and such things in the case, plus swap out the fans on the radiator (going for Noctua 120mm's) since I'm taking the whole waterloop out of the case anyway. Never so bad that it isn't good for naught

 

[ShadowXP]

Paycheck is in-house, so my hands are hovering above the phone ready to dial my parts-pusher and order some new watercooling-gear. And thus questions arise, and thus I turn to the gurus (yep, that's you).

Question 1: Coolant! Been looking at the Feser F1-coolant. Mostly since it's nonconductive, but also because it's scored pretty well in tests and isn't all too expensive. Does anyone have any experience in using it, especially in terms of coolant lifetime, performance and such things?

Question 2: Is there an easy way of implementing a drainpoint in the waterloop? When I drained the system this time I ripped the entire thing out in one piece (waterblock, pump/tank and radiator all pulled out in one piece, then taken outside for draining). While it worked quite nicely, I'd rather not do that every time I have to drain things because of the risk of damage to the hoses, waterblock and other components. Was thinking about putting in a T-junction in the loop and then hooking up a valve or something to a piece of hose, but not sure if that's a good idea. I also don't really want to have to yoink the hose off one of the connectors to drain the system due to the risk of spilling (My cats will drink just about anything. They're cute, but won't win any awards for high IQ anytime soon. Plus the fact that my better half will staple me upside-down butt naked on the wall outside if there's any spilling )

Question 3: Fill-point in the system. Keep the fillpoint on the MicroRes, or use a DangerDen Fillport in the top of the case (and how to tie that into the loop)? Looking for something that will look good as well as having a good function

Question 4: Anyone know of a waterblock that'll fit onto an ATI r3850, and that covers both the GPU and the RAMchips?

 

[X800]

I have an AlphaCool AGB-Eheim 600 Station II 230V and its very quiet they come in 12v too
AlphaCool AGB-Eheim 600 Station II 12V.But i have no experience in a Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V Pro AGB but what i have read on the net they are very god.

 

[Wile E]

Paycheck is in-house, so my hands are hovering above the phone ready to dial my parts-pusher and order some new watercooling-gear. And thus questions arise, and thus I turn to the gurus (yep, that's you).

Question 1: Coolant! Been looking at the Feser F1-coolant. Mostly since it's nonconductive, but also because it's scored pretty well in tests and isn't all too expensive. Does anyone have any experience in using it, especially in terms of coolant lifetime, performance and such things?

Question 2: Is there an easy way of implementing a drainpoint in the waterloop? When I drained the system this time I ripped the entire thing out in one piece (waterblock, pump/tank and radiator all pulled out in one piece, then taken outside for draining). While it worked quite nicely, I'd rather not do that every time I have to drain things because of the risk of damage to the hoses, waterblock and other components. Was thinking about putting in a T-junction in the loop and then hooking up a valve or something to a piece of hose, but not sure if that's a good idea. I also don't really want to have to yoink the hose off one of the connectors to drain the system due to the risk of spilling (My cats will drink just about anything. They're cute, but won't win any awards for high IQ anytime soon. Plus the fact that my better half will staple me upside-down butt naked on the wall outside if there's any spilling )

Question 3: Fill-point in the system. Keep the fillpoint on the MicroRes, or use a DangerDen Fillport in the top of the case (and how to tie that into the loop)? Looking for something that will look good as well as having a good function

Question 4: Anyone know of a waterblock that'll fit onto an ATI r3850, and that covers both the GPU and the RAMchips?

I'm fairly sure Koolance makes a full coverage block for the 3850.

As for draining and filling, you can use a t-line for both. Put the draining T at the pump exit, and you can use the pump to drain your loop in a hurry. But I would just use the res for filling.

 

[ShadowXP]

Thanks, Wile =) I'll see if I can't get the MicroRes mounted so that it's easy to fill without having to run the risk of spilling. Think I'll go for a DD Fillport mounted in the back of the case for the purpose of draining the system.

The main task will be to get the system to not only function well, but also look well. Been toying with the thought of doing some modding to it, although I have no clue as to what just yet.