many times when i restart my PC.. my motherboard won’t detect or boot from my HDD

IBRAHIM_007 · Dec 9, 2016

hello ladies and gentlemens

can you help me please

the problem is when i (( restart )) my pc ... many times not just sometimes its like 70% my motherboard won’t boot or detect my main hard drive .. and its very annoying

and the only way to make it boot is to force it to shut down by pressing power button ( front case )
and this is my last option after trying to restart again
because i don’t like to turn off my pc suddenly , i think it can damage hard drives on " long term"

do you think the problem in the hard drive ? or motherboard ? or what ?
and the weird thing i think this only happen when i (restart)

i appreciate any suggestions or info

specs :

Asrock FATAL1TY Z170 PROFESSIONAL GAMING I7 motherboard
WD Black 2TB Performance 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache - WD2003FZEX hard drive .. connected to (SATA3_0) which is recommended in owner manual
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W power supply ( more than enough for my pc )

also i have other hard drives , but they have nothing to do with boot problems i think ( they don’t have system , only for files storage )

1TB WD blue 7200 RPM - WD10EZEX connected to (SATA3_1)

and 2.5 inch hard drive connected to (SATA3_2)

if you need more info about my pc , click on (System Specs)

i have this problem for long time , but i was lazy and busy to write about it

best regards ❤ :toast:

Komshija · Dec 9, 2016

It's hard to tell what it is. Maybe cable connectors aren't seated correctly. Try using different SATA port.

basco · Dec 9, 2016

sometimes disabling fast boot in bios helps

Ebo · Dec 9, 2016

1. update your bios to the latest

2. check your ram with memtest 1 stick at the time

3. check in bios that your ram settings are online with specs.

4. change your battery on your MB, its a CR 2032

Bill_Bright · Dec 9, 2016

IBRAHIM_007 said:
because i don’t like to turn off my pc suddenly , i think it can damage hard drives on " long term"

It is smart to avoid suddenly turning off your computer, but not for the reason you mention. It does not "damage" the hard drives. They don't care. The problem is data corruption. When a computer suddenly looses power, it can leave many critical system files in an "open" status, or there can be incomplete saves/writes, and it can leave many orphaned files on your disk, causing it to fill up with clutter. This can certainly damage/corrupt the operating system, user files and programs on the disk, but not damage the disk itself.

I would start by swapping in a known good power supply. A BIOS does not suddenly go bad on its own, or work some time but not another. But having your computer suddenly power down while updating the BIOS can sure turn a motherboard into a brick. I would hold off on that until your system is stable.

Resetting the BIOS is probably a good idea and that will happen automatically if you replace your CMOS battery. These batteries are only a couple dollars and can be found at just about any battery, camera or watch camera at your local discount or home improvement store. Just make sure you unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in. Do NOT touch the new battery with your bare fingers as skin oils can promote corrosion and attract dust. Once the battery is back in, boot directly into the BIOS Setup Menu, set the date and time and make sure your drive boot order is correct then Save and Exit to [hopefully] boot normally.

EarthDog · Dec 9, 2016

What is the error? It just says cannot find boot device?
Did you install windows with UEFI boot?

I find it difficult to believe its a hardware issue outside of the HDD/cable/port/bad bios chip/battery. Memory isn't even touched/used in the bios outside of a quick test so I highly doubt memory has anything to do with boot order in the bios. PSU has nothing to do with booting either, at least in a capacity to remember/not remember boot order. Its also a Tier 1 unit. And while those most certainly can fail, I wouldn't be looking there first.

I would also look into replacing the BIOS battery, and for giggles, updating the BIOS.

Bill_Bright · Dec 9, 2016

EarthDog said:
Its also a Tier 1 unit. And while those most certainly can fail, I wouldn't be looking there first.

I missed where the OP said it was an EVGA SuperNOVA G2. Yes, definitely a top tier unit (and my recommended brand and model line of late too). That said, until Man can create perfection 100% of the time, even the best models from the best makers will have units that are not up to snuff.

I don't agree it with it being a bad BIOS chip only because everything does seem to work fine 30% of the time. If the chip was bad, I think it would fail every time. Plus, a bad chip would mean new motherboard time and we don't want to go there (yet).

EarthDog · Dec 9, 2016

Bill_Bright said:
I missed where the OP said it was an EVGA SuperNOVA G2. Yes, definitely a top tier unit (and my recommended brand and model line of late too). That said, until Man can create perfection 100% of the time, even the best models from the best makers will have units that are not up to snuff.

I don't agree it with it being a bad BIOS chip only because everything does seem to work fine 30% of the time. If the chip was bad, I think it would fail every time. Plus, a bad chip would mean new motherboard time and we don't want to go there (yet).

I appreciate your affirmation of my previous assertion!

Bad chips don't fail absolutely all the time. I have had to RMA two (ASUS) boards with a 'semi' borked bios in the past (Z97 and X79). I was able to get to access the BIOS, even boot to windows, but some settings wouldn't 'save'. After an arduous back and forth with ASUS, in the end, both had replaced BIOS chips and a fresh flash (tried the fresh flash) which resolved that specific issue. Not saying this is the case, but, its worth a flash at least. This happened with extreme overclocking, particularly, memory overclocking.

eidairaman1 · Dec 9, 2016

Id pull every drive other than the boot drive for testing, along with a new cable

redeye · Dec 9, 2016

I always connect my boot drive to to the first sata port, so when i reset the bios, the boot drive is found at the default location.
Bit of a pain because the "zero" sata port is not always clearly labeled.

Bill_Bright · Dec 9, 2016

EarthDog said:
Bad chips don't fail absolutely all the time.

When there are only two states (1 or 0, on or off, high or low) as there are with digital electronics then yeah, they typically do fail absolutely, at least when subjected to the exact same task - such as a boot. Of course, in electronics, there are always exceptions, but they are much less common in binary systems.

My fear with attempting a BIOS flash now is a boot failure and corruption during the next boot should that be one of the 70% of boots that fail. I would go for a CMOS reset first. And in spite of the reputation of the EVGA Supernova G2 series, I would still swap in a different PSU if for no other reason than to eliminate the PSU from the equation.

redeye said:
Bit of a pain because the "zero" sata port is not always clearly labeled.

I've never seen them not labeled, but that does not mean my 64 year old eye can clearly see the tiny text (or determine which side is up or down). Especially true once the motherboard is mounted deep in the abyss of a dark, cavernous case. This is where RTFM is a good tactic. Beyond that, I too always put my primary drive on the first "0" SATA port.

EarthDog · Dec 9, 2016

You are correct Bill on both fronts. Particularly the fact there are always exceptions... indeed I had two of them.

I also agree with resetting the CMOS then trying a flash.

yogurt_21 · Dec 9, 2016

if you had a raid card that would make sense. I have a Perc 6 (~2008-2009) raid card which boots like molasses. My 2014 mainboard boots like lightning. The two don't mix very well.

So 3 out of 4 times it will boot right past the raid card and then complain there isn't an OS.

ctrl + alt + del 2 more times and it works. A bit annoying I'll admit, but I know exactly why so it's not too terrible. Getting a newer raid card and having to reinstall everything...that sounds more terrible to me.

IBRAHIM_007 · Dec 10, 2016

Komshija said:
It's hard to tell what it is. Maybe cable connectors aren't seated correctly. Try using different SATA port.

indeed it’s hard

i took the graphics card off to be able to access the sata ports and sata cables.
and the sata cable was not very snug , i replaced all the sata cables with new ones .
and i hope this will fix the problem

if it didn’t fix the problem
my next step will be to change the power sata cable with another one ( power supply come with more than 1 cable . each cable can be connected to 3 hard drives , and im using 1 cable for 3 hard drives .. for better cable management and less cables )
and if this not work i will connect it to sata port number 2 in the power supply
or maybe use 2 cables instead of 1 cable to feed power to 3 hard drives

and if this didn’t work , i will try to leave and skip SATA3_0 port even though the owner manual recommend using it for faster boot
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

basco said:
sometimes disabling fast boot in bios helps

i didn’t even enable it

thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

Ebo said:
1. update your bios to the latest

2. check your ram with memtest 1 stick at the time

3. check in bios that your ram settings are online with specs.

4. change your battery on your MB, its a CR 2032

i will take all these into consideration
but for now i don’t trust my motherboard or whatever is the problem

also im confused with Asrock

my MB come with P2.10 bios 06/30/2016 . and the latest bios 2.00 7/20/2016 in thier site , the release date is newer but im not sure why its not 2.20 for example
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7/?cat=Download&os=BIOS
and i can’t find my current bios ( if i want to go back to my original bios )

there is a beta bios
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7/?cat=Beta
but im worried to use it because its beta , maybe its not stable

i will keep updating bios my last option for the reason above
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

Bill_Bright said:
It is smart to avoid suddenly turning off your computer, but not for the reason you mention. It does not "damage" the hard drives. They don't care. The problem is data corruption. When a computer suddenly looses power, it can leave many critical system files in an "open" status, or there can be incomplete saves/writes, and it can leave many orphaned files on your disk, causing it to fill up with clutter. This can certainly damage/corrupt the operating system, user files and programs on the disk, but not damage the disk itself.

I would start by swapping in a known good power supply. A BIOS does not suddenly go bad on its own, or work some time but not another. But having your computer suddenly power down while updating the BIOS can sure turn a motherboard into a brick. I would hold off on that until your system is stable.

Resetting the BIOS is probably a good idea and that will happen automatically if you replace your CMOS battery. These batteries are only a couple dollars and can be found at just about any battery, camera or watch camera at your local discount or home improvement store. Just make sure you unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in. Do NOT touch the new battery with your bare fingers as skin oils can promote corrosion and attract dust. Once the battery is back in, boot directly into the BIOS Setup Menu, set the date and time and make sure your drive boot order is correct then Save and Exit to [hopefully] boot normally.

lot of helpful info , i didn’t know about that
i was thinking it will only damage the hard drive ( maybe it will scratch the platter or something lol )
i never thought about data corruption

the problem is i can’t find a good power supply to spare from someone for testing , and i don’t want to buy another one because i spend lot of money on this ( i bought this from amazon , if it have problem i will ask amazon for the best solution to solve this problem to return or refund " even though im not from USA " )

and for battery i will try to search to find a good one , because most of them here are cheap
thank you very much for taking long time to write all of this to help me , i really appreciate :toast:

i changed my sata cables with new ones , and im taking all your suggestions guys into consideration

i will start from the easiest and safest to the harder things to do .

update :

changing sata cables didn’t fix the problem

now im testing plugging the current sata power cable in the port number 2 in power supply (instead of port number 1)
if this didn’t work .. i will change the power sata cable with another one ( included in power supply box )

and if this didn’t work , i will connect the HDD to another port ( im still using port SATA 3_0 because its recommended for faster boot )
and if this fix the problem .. it mean the port is bad
and if it didn’t fix it .. i think the problem in HDD ( hard disk drive )

EarthDog said:
What is the error? It just says cannot find boot device?
Did you install windows with UEFI boot?

I find it difficult to believe its a hardware issue outside of the HDD/cable/port/bad bios chip/battery. Memory isn't even touched/used in the bios outside of a quick test so I highly doubt memory has anything to do with boot order in the bios. PSU has nothing to do with booting either, at least in a capacity to remember/not remember boot order. Its also a Tier 1 unit. And while those most certainly can fail, I wouldn't be looking there first.

I would also look into replacing the BIOS battery, and for giggles, updating the BIOS.

i changed all the sata cables with new ones - didn’t fix the problem

i will check all the things you said

after i finish testing different port in the power supply and changing sata power cable

and also i will try to skip leave the first port (sata 3_0)

note : i always avoid messing with bios settings even in boot options , when i installed windows before month or more , i think i pressed F11 to choose device to boot ( i didn’t change orders in the bios ) or entered bios

i tried before many time to use default settings but it didn't fix the problem
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

eidairaman1 · Dec 10, 2016

Time to grab a new drive

IBRAHIM_007 · Dec 10, 2016

eidairaman1 said:
Id pull every drive other than the boot drive for testing, along with a new cable

i changed all the sata cables and it didn’t fix the problem

why would you remove the other drives ?
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

redeye said:
I always connect my boot drive to to the first sata port, so when i reset the bios, the boot drive is found at the default location.
Bit of a pain because the "zero" sata port is not always clearly labeled.

its connected to the first sata port ( SATA3_0 )
my other drives connected to (SATA3_1) and (SATA3_2)
when i was installing my pc parts , i did read the owner manual to make sure to install everything correctly
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

Bill_Bright said:
When there are only two states (1 or 0, on or off, high or low) as there are with digital electronics then yeah, they typically do fail absolutely, at least when subjected to the exact same task - such as a boot. Of course, in electronics, there are always exceptions, but they are much less common in binary systems.

My fear with attempting a BIOS flash now is a boot failure and corruption during the next boot should that be one of the 70% of boots that fail. I would go for a CMOS reset first. And in spite of the reputation of the EVGA Supernova G2 series, I would still swap in a different PSU if for no other reason than to eliminate the PSU from the equation.

I've never seen them not labeled, but that does not mean my 64 year old eye can clearly see the tiny text (or determine which side is up or down). Especially true once the motherboard is mounted deep in the abyss of a dark, cavernous case. This is where RTFM is a good tactic. Beyond that, I too always put my primary drive on the first "0" SATA port.

i have the same fear

i will try to find a good new battery today

the problem is i can’t find another power supply to test
many stores here have s*** power supplies ( not good as EVGA SuperNova G2 )

and i don’t want to waste my money on another power supply , i already spend lot of money on EVGA G2 750W
thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

yogurt_21 said:
if you had a raid card that would make sense. I have a Perc 6 (~2008-2009) raid card which boots like molasses. My 2014 mainboard boots like lightning. The two don't mix very well.

So 3 out of 4 times it will boot right past the raid card and then complain there isn't an OS.

ctrl + alt + del 2 more times and it works. A bit annoying I'll admit, but I know exactly why so it's not too terrible. Getting a newer raid card and having to reinstall everything...that sounds more terrible to me.

im not using raid , or raid card

im just using z170 sata port

but thank you very much , i appreciate :toast:

i think the problem in the power supply ( SATA Port number 1 ) .. but im not sure yet i will keep testing restarting every once in a while to make sure

because i took the cable off that port and connect it to port ( number 2 ) and i restarted my pc for like 10 times and it boot normally

the power supply have 3 SATA ports .. and each port have cable to connect to 3 drives

again im not sure yet .. i will let you know guys
thank you so much to all of you :toast:

i really appreciate ! and i hope this will fix the problem

if thats true , i will be shocked about EVGA but to be honest nothing in this life perfect 100%
i mean any company can have some problems in some units

revin · Dec 10, 2016

IBRAHIM_007 said:
why would you remove the other drives ?

One reason for only having the one OS drive connected it that sometimes the BCD store can be corrupted so it eliminates other drives from the issue

IBRAHIM_007 · Dec 10, 2016

IBRAHIM_007 said:
i think the problem in the power supply ( SATA Port number 1 ) .. but im not sure yet i will keep testing restarting every once in a while to make sure

because i took the cable off that port and connect it to port ( number 2 ) and i restarted my pc for like 10 times and it boot normally

the power supply have 3 SATA ports .. and each port have cable to connect to 3 drives

again im not sure yet .. i will let you know guys
thank you so much to all of you
i really appreciate ! and i hope this will fix the problem

if thats true , i will be shocked about EVGA but to be honest nothing in this life perfect 100%
i mean any company can have some problems in some units

after testing
sadly this didn’t fix the problem

revin said:
One reason for only having the one OS drive connected it that sometimes the BCD store can be corrupted so it eliminates other drives from the issue

thank you very much for explaining :toast:

eidairaman1 · Dec 10, 2016

Chuck the drive or motherboard at this point

redeye · Dec 11, 2016

At this point, i would remove your boot drive, keep everything the same, get a spare/blank hdd and install windows to see if you can get a working system... (might remove the other drives )

Or if that is not possible install linux, on a blank drive just to check if the system will boot...

I am not suggesting a reinstall just a test on a blank drive, a new install of the OS.
If you can not get a new OS running, you might me SOL.

Mr.Scott · Dec 11, 2016

IBRAHIM_007 said:
also im confused with Asrock my MB come with P2.10 bios 06/30/2016 . and the latest bios 2.00 7/20/2016 in thier site , the release date is newer but im not sure why its not 2.20 for example
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7/?cat=Download&os=BIOS
and i can’t find my current bios ( if i want to go back to my original bios )

there is a beta bios
http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7/?cat=Beta
but im worried to use it because its beta , maybe its not stable

i will keep updating bios my last option for the reason above

If your current bios isn't listed on their site anymore, it was taken down for a reason. I would immediately flash the newest bios.

Processor	Intel Core i7-6700K @ Stock
Motherboard	ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Professional Gaming i7
Cooling	Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO + Undervolting + NT-H1 Thermal Paste
Memory	Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB @ XMP 3200MHz C16
Video Card(s)	MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G @ Stock
Storage	2TB WD Black WD2003FZEX + 1 TB WD blue WD10EZEX
Case	Cooler Master HAF 912 Advanced
Power Supply	EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W
Mouse	Razer DeathAdder Elite
Keyboard	Corsair Gaming K70 LUX Mechanical Keyboard (Cherry MX Red)
Software	Windows 10 Home 64 bit

System Name	1.21 gigawatts!
Processor	Intel Core i7 6700K
Motherboard	MSI Z170A Krait Gaming 3X
Cooling	Be Quiet! Shadow Rock Slim with Arctic MX-4
Memory	16GB G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4 3000 MHz
Video Card(s)	Palit GTX 1080 Game Rock
Storage	Mushkin Triactor 240GB + Toshiba X300 4TB + Team L3 EVO 480GB
Display(s)	Philips 237E7QDSB/00 23" FHD AH-IPS
Case	Aerocool Aero-1000 white + 4 Arctic F12 PWM Rev.2 fans
Audio Device(s)	Onboard Audio Boost 3 with Nahimic Audio Enhancer
Power Supply	FSP Hydro G 650W
Mouse	Cougar 700M eSports white
Keyboard	E-Blue Cobra II
Software	Windows 8.1 Pro x64
Benchmark Scores	Cinebench R15: 948 (stock) / 1044 (4,7 GHz) FarCry 5 1080p Ultra: min 100, avg 116, max 133 FPS

System Name	ibuytheusedstuff
Processor	5960x
Motherboard	x99 sabertooth
Cooling	old socket775 cooler
Memory	32 Viper
Video Card(s)	1080ti on morpheus 1
Storage	raptors+ssd
Display(s)	acer 120hz
Case	open bench
Audio Device(s)	onb
Power Supply	antec 1200 moar power
Mouse	mx 518
Keyboard	roccat arvo

System Name	the little fart
Processor	AMD Ryzen 2600X
Motherboard	MSI x470 gaming plus
Cooling	Noctua NH-C14S
Memory	16 GB G.Skill Ripjaw 2400Mhz DDR 4
Video Card(s)	Sapphire RX Vega 56 Pulse
Storage	1 Crucial MX100 512GB SSD,1 Crucial MX500 2TB SSD, 1 1,5TB WD Black Caviar, 1 4TB WD RED HD
Display(s)	IIyama XUB2792QSU IPS 2560x1440
Case	White Lian-Li PC-011 Dynamic
Audio Device(s)	Asus Xonar SE pci-e card
Power Supply	Thermaltake DPS G 1050 watt Digital PSU
Mouse	Steelseries Sensei
Keyboard	Corsair K70
Software	windows 10 64 pro bit

System Name	Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor	Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard	Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling	Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory	32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s)	EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage	Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s)	Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case	Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply	EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse	Logitech M190
Keyboard	Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software	W10 Pro 64-bit

many times when i restart my PC.. my motherboard won’t detect or boot from my HDD

IBRAHIM_007

Komshija

basco

Ebo

Bill_Bright

EarthDog

Bill_Bright

EarthDog

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman

redeye

Bill_Bright

EarthDog

yogurt_21

IBRAHIM_007

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman

IBRAHIM_007

revin

IBRAHIM_007

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman

redeye

Mr.Scott

System Name	PCGOD
Processor	AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard	Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling	Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory	16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s)	AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage	Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s)	NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case	AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s)	Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply	Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse	Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard	Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software	Windows 7 Pro 64

System Name	YACS amd.
Processor	5800x, 5700g, i9-9900k
Motherboard	gigabyte x570 aorus gaming elite. or msi x570 gaming plus
Cooling	bykski GPU, CPU. syscooling p93x, or sc-67f in series, or aquacomputer cpu
Memory	corsair vengeance pro rgb, 3600 ddr4 16,16,16, 36, or gskill
Video Card(s)	xfx merc 310 7900xtx, or 6750xt watercooled. (alphacool)
Storage	kingston kc3000 2TB, amongst others. Fanxiang s770 2TB
Display(s)	benq ew3270u, or acer XB270hu, acer XB280hk, asus VG 278H,
Case	lian li LANCOOL III
Audio Device(s)	obs,
Power Supply	FSP Hydro Ti pro 1000w
Mouse	logitech g703
Keyboard	durogod keyboard. (cherry brown switches)
Software	win 11, win10pro.

System Name	Thought I'd be done with this by now
Processor	i7 11700k 8/16
Motherboard	MSI Z590 Pro Wifi
Cooling	Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4, 9x aigo AR12
Memory	32GB GSkill TridentZ Neo DDR4-4000 CL18-22-22-42
Video Card(s)	MSI Ventus 2x Geforce RTX 3070
Storage	1TB MX300 M.2 OS + Games, + cloud mostly
Display(s)	Samsung 40" 4k (TV)
Case	Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic EVO Black
Audio Device(s)	onboard HD -> Yamaha 5.1
Power Supply	EVGA 850 GQ
Mouse	Logitech wireless
Keyboard	same
VR HMD	nah
Software	Windows 10
Benchmark Scores	no one cares anymore lols

System Name	Firebird
Processor	Intel i7 2600K @5.0'ish 24/7 stock core Voltage {5.2 w/102 bCLK}
Motherboard	Intel Extreme DZ68BC SkullTrail Z68 Cougerpoint, Excellent MCH !
Cooling	Scythe NINJA PLUS Rev.B[skt478] Modded to 1155 Scythe SH12 fan
Memory	Samsung 32nm 16Gb 4x4 (@19xxmhz} low profile[ better than 2133 banwidth]
Video Card(s)	Gigabyte Aurosus 1080Ti
Storage	Intel 512 SSD,Samsung 9701Tb, Toshiba 3Tbx2,Hitachi 320,1TBx2,'Cuda 400 7200.10, WD1TBUSB,to SATA
Display(s)	Acer K272HUL 1440 27" WQHD, Samsung 226W, Vizio M60C3 4K 60",Vizio XVT3D554SV
Case	CoolerMaster HAF 932
Audio Device(s)	Intel 10ch[9+1] HD Audio X540> Pioneer VSX39TX[copper chasis,Rosewood sides 5x6LCD remote
Power Supply	Seasonic X750 @ 24/7
Mouse	Logictech G300s
Keyboard	Saitek Cyborg v7
Software	Windows 7 ROG E3 X64 by Neuropass/tweakscene
Benchmark Scores	4642@665/1600 220/GAT F1 4544 220/667strap 2.5/3/2/6 Bliss 650/1500 6490 Q6700 Bliss 690/1500

System Name	Master
Processor	Pair of Xeon X5675's @ 4.3
Motherboard	SR-2 Classified
Memory	12 GB of Corsair Dominator GT's @ 2000 7-7-7-21
Video Card(s)	EVGA GTX680
Power Supply	EVGA Supernova 750