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My Gigabit Switch II

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#1
I registered in order to say thank you.

This is in response to an outdated thread:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1682495#post1682495

The issue is a D-Link DGS-1008D gigabit switch which fails with a row of eternal flashing lights.

I would have thrown it away if not for this forum and the cited thread.

I replaced the 1000uf 16v capacitor in the power supply for the switch and it works fine again. Yes, the 1A P/S reads 11.5V in open-circuit - but mine reads 8.25V under load.

Incidentally, when I tested the (4) 50V 2A RL201 rectifier diodes, they failed a continuity test. However, they read 18 Ohms forward. This is aparently within spec - and the P/S works fine. I am posting this via my working DGS-1008D.

Thank you again for the helpful discussion.

--pestisnart

[keywords: D-Link Dlink gigabit switch DGS-1008D DGS1008D DGS 1008 1008D flashing ]

Just wanted to say thanks to @ddcruz and @freetvuser! I ran into exactly the same problem today - all of the sudden my DGS-1008D Rev. C4, which had been operating flawlessly 24/7/365 for three years, stopped working and blinked the LEDs in exactly the same way as you described here. I searched for "d-link dgs1008d led error codes" and that led me right to this thread.

I followed @freetvuser's suggestion and replaced the bad capacitor in the power supply and now my DGS-1008D is up and running again!

Some additions:

1. To open the power supply, you can use a thin saw to saw in the crack on one of the long sides. Once you're through, put a big screwdriver in the sawed crack and twist it to crack the other three sides open. This method allowed me to keep the casing mostly intact and tape it together after replacing the capacitor.

2. After replacing the capacitor, I measured the output voltage again, and found it was still close to 12 volts (nominal output is 7.5V 1A DC) - yet now the switch is happily initializing and working...

3. The power supply is as simple as it gets: Transformer, 4 diodes, capacitor. You can't build a DC power supply cheaper than that. The upside is that the parts are so standard that you can easily replace them.

Again, thanks for this thread, guys - it helped me fix a broken switch today!
 
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#2
ALSO fixed: D-Link Broadband Router DI-704UP

As a result of the success in repairing the P/S for the (above) DGS-1008D, I dredged up from the bottom of the parts-box a D-Link Broadband Router DI-704UP that had failed years ago. (This was mostly out of curiosity as routers are cheap these days.) I had to wonder if the DI-704UP had not suffered a similar failure - the P/S. Anyway, here's what I found:

The DI-704PS uses a smaller-sized switching P/S (model: M1-10S05). I opened it up in the tradidional way (dremel-with-cutting-wheel around the seam). It is quite different inside than the DGS-1008D P/S. However, there was a distinct similarity which I was looking for: a capacitor OF THE SAME BRAND that failed in the DGS-1008D. This P/S had a 330uF 25V cap bulging (but not split) at the top. It was the same brand as the failed 1000uF cap in the other P/S. The brand is "TEAPO". It is green plastic wrapped with gold/bronze-colored lettering.

I did not have any 330uF caps on hand - just 220s and 470s. So I used a 470uF 35V cap in place of the green TEAPO 330uF 25V. Now the P/S works fine and it powers up the router nicely.

Before the cap replacement, the 5V rated P/S read 5V o/c and 3V under load. After replacing the cap the P/S reads 5V o/c and 5V under load - just as you would expect from a switching supply.

Evidently TEAPO brand caps are part of "the capacitor plague".

Thank you again for putting me on to this idea, PowerUp!

--pestisnart

[keywords: M1-10S05 M1 10S05 DI 704 704UP]