Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Heldelance, Nov 26, 2012.
CD??? Keeps condensation off board..LOL
CD, who makes you Pot?
I know...? That's why it was there keep board from freezing up ie getting frost on it.
N3RO made it a couple years back.
Will be curious to revisit this chip with my CHVF when it gets back from RMA land. Not to shabby for 4 dimms installed and still running full speed.
What's "water suicide"?
Dangit, the Koolance waterblock for the AMDs are sold out. Unfortunately it's bloody hard to find a good online store for Australia...
How's this CPU waterblock?
Swiftech Apogee Drive II CPU Waterblock & Pump For AMD APD2-AMD
It's apparently also got a pump on it as well.
Umart is online and have a few actual stores around Australia. Give them a try if you want, www.umart.com.au . I've had great after sales service and quick delivery. PCcasegear is supposed to be good too but I haven't used them. Same goes for scorptec.
Try international: there's maybe some shops shipping from america or europe to you?
Now about coolant:
I'll try to be as clear as possible here: nothing (short of some gas) can beat the pure distillated water when it comes to store/transport heat (4,2 J/kgK is just way over anything available).
Distillated water (not deionized, not anything else, simply that word), which cost less than 1$/L, is the best thing to put in a watercooling loop. It is easy to pump (less strain on the pump than the propylene glycol (Prestone and the likes)), is available at any grocery or supermarket near you, cost almost nothing, and will not cause erosion (when you use distillated water, there's in fact some ions from the manufacturing process (the deionized water exists because of that), so it will not induce metal corrosion, nor will it protect from it if you mix different metal in the same loop (good way to destroy a waterblock from inside btw)).
Propylene glycol is added to water in cars and trucks because it lower the temperature at which water freezes. Cars running in non-tropical climate need that, while someone living in mexico could run it's radiator with only water and not see any problem. There's a lot of water additive/color, but all in all they just can do 3 things: 1-color the water 2-kill any living thing in your solution and 3-lower your freezing point (only for those containing any glycol).
Reality: 1- Any coloring molecule will, over time (think in many months), precipitate and, little by little, clog and/or stain your block; 2-Many chemicals and ions can do this, and you don't need any specific formula to do a clean job. Native silver is one of the best ions to use, as it is easy to put into water solution (a stripe of pure silver can provide enough ions to kill a small aquarium), does not cost that much (the real weight of the wire/coil is minimal) and did keep my clear tubing-open case and sun exposed loop from turning green; 3- Not necessary in this case.
In short, buy colored tubing and fittings to your like, some pure silver coil (readily available on ebay for like 10$), and use distillated water. Not ANYTHING else. And don't mix metal: stick to copper for blocks and to good brand for rads, you will not be disappointed.
Yeah PCcase gear is out, you can try http://www.gammods.com.au/store/
I don't know if that block comes with the pump, It has support for a pump though. Then again, this may be the edition that comes with the pump.
Thanks mate, I managed to track down the Koolance one by going to their website and going through the resellers. Got it from The Kool Room. All the parts are ordered and should be on their way soon enough.
I'll probably start popping everything together come christmas time (I've got a week or so off)
Ah yes, should have recommended The kool room, I know them through singularity computers.
The car coolant seems to only come in pre-mixed. Is 33% coolant fine?
I don't know why the thread is stuck on car coolant. It will not cool any better than water. For your first setup, run distilled water with silvercoil and biocide. Thats all you need.
For all I know the car coolant is too thick as well, probably won't run properly.
I know that I can't use pure coolant and the coolant just acts as a biocide / anti-freeze / anti-boil. I just figured that as the coolant is also anti-corrosion, it'd be a fair bit better than plane biocide and kill coil.
Don't waste your time buddy, just go with proper watercooling coolant. Some things are just a no. Car coolant is meant for a car, its for a practical purpose, and its dirty, its not the same grade as computer coolant.
It is it works great probably. I never had issues with algae build up running biocide alone but that loop was only together a few months. I rather like the several year between tear downs on my coolant loop.
Your kidding right most pc coolants clog the check out of the loop.
Actually, It has a high probability of burning the pump out.
If you run it pure sure but we are talking a 25% mixture which makes it barely thicker than water if any thicker and plenty thinner than what is sold by feser and many other companies.
I have a watercooling buddy that does extensive testing with flow rates/waterblocks and rads and he says it is not a good idea. It is thicker and these pumps are not designed to run anything but water. Will it work? yes but thicker can burn a pump out. 99.99% of the community does not use this mixture. If your not putting the rad in sub freezing conditions, there is NO reason to use anti freeze.
Actually back in the day when Asetek was still doing real water cooling loops they used to ship them with Red Line Water Wetter. Used to sell it in little syringes that were the perfect "dose" for the system. I don't even wanna think how many of those syringes I went thru messing around with "My First Water Loop"
If that's the case people need to stop using high restriction blocks and rads as well.
According to manufacturer specs both DDC and D5 are designed to be used with with/water-glycol mixes.
D5 : http://www.lowara.com/lowdata/doc/EN/ecocircd5vario-ed-en.pdf
DDC : http://www.lowara.com/lowdata/doc/EN/ddc-ed-en.pdf
When I first set up the loop, to flush it, should I link up everything but have the return feed to the reservoir in the sink, or would it be best to flush the parts out one at a time?
For the flushing, should I be using distilled water or is filtered (like those brita water filters) water fine?
Only ever use Distilled Water. The only other thing you can "safely" add is vinegar(some may disagree with me on that one tho) But NEVER run anything but pure Distilled Water thru it anything else will have contaminants. At least where I live I can buy it buy the litre at any Gas Station as Battery Water. Very cheap and plentiful.
Did you read what i posted? I did try to explain it to you...
Separate names with a comma.