Discussion in 'TechPowerUp Club Forum' started by EastCoasthandle, Feb 8, 2008.
Please read post 229 for an explanation, thanks!
Whats up guys, just surfing through the forums as usual figured Id post a link to my setup...
All specs are in the gallery page!
Nice setup, thanks for sharing
hi can any one advise me on a good external water cooling kit?
whats the budget?
£100 to £150???
Sorry for the late reply, I am not familiar with pricing in your area however here is what I can offer:
-Thermalright LGA775 RM Retension Bracket
-D-Tek FuZion CPU WB
-D5 Pump or MSP655
-Swiftech MCR220 or MCR320 (if you can find a place for it)
-applicable tube clamps
You have to decide on what size tubing your want. Be it 7/16" ID or smaller (for example). Also, you have to decide on a T-line or Reservoir. Personally I would go with a reservoir. Do you plan on water cooling the GPU as well?
Has anyone tried the fatboy barbs yet?
havent tried them myself but i heard they are the flow kings of barbs
Here is a review using a reducer
Man, I really want to get a Thermochill PA rad.
I have had good and bad experiences with bay reservoirs, I have a solid plastic single bay rez from sidewindercomputers now and it works great, before this I had a CrazyPC dual bay clear acrylic bay rez that worked good for about a month, and one day just lost its seal and spilt all its water along the front of my case. The front bezel that was glued on failed and released all the water. I have temps monitors in bios running, so it was ok, but I have to pull the CPU to reset he board to get it to work. And a hell of a mess to clean in my p180!
So I have mixed feeling about them. I would love to get another clear acrylic, I think they look awesome. Im just really scared of it leaking again, and maybe taking other components with it.
Thanks for the link,some good info there.Seems to be little difference in the two barbs used,only when you get over 3.5GPM, and in a typical PC set up I dont think there should be any really determinable difference.
Will be getting a Thermochill-PA-120_3 for my new set up when I can find a D-Tek FuZion for sale in the UK,they are like hen's teeth to find at the moment.
should be some interesting stuff in the RAD world weve got the new fesser rads and the BI GTX's seem to be giving thermochill some competition
cant wait to see some reviews
I like the GTX rads, but they're just so damn expensive here, it's £65 for a 3x120mm as opposed to £55 for a thermochill 3x, and the coloured ones cost even more (£84 for a chrome one) though they do look awesome, and the 4x120mm ones look mental (wheres the uberstacker coolermaster?)
any links to the feser ones?
Whats a good coolant thats lasts long and prevents corosion and algee the best for the switchtech h20-220 ultra?
hydrX and distilled
@ grings : just google "fesser rads"
What is everyone's preferred method of cleaning their rads before installing?
I thought I had rinsed it pretty thoroughly with hot tap water, shaken like a madman, repeat 10X. Rinse 5x with distilled to remove and minerals from tap water flush.
I think I tried to get a little "fancy" with my flush and tried some Scrubbing Bubbles because I saw someone use it on XS. I was not about to use any vinegar, but Scrubbing Bubbles seemed to be a nice alternative. (Potentially some anti-algae properties.)
Maybe I didn't rinse well enough, but my Primoflex tubes are completely coated internally with a white (and when dry, powdery) substance.
Could it be flux or something. Only other thing I did was added a couple extra drops of PT Nuke to the distilled. My copper is a little blackened now as well.
It's all apart awaiting my new mobo so thought I'd take the opportunity to clean it proper.
i use hot water, vinegar and CLR.
works for me
i start with a soak in CLR, then flush with vinegar, then with hot water
Are those heater cores copper?
Never thought of CLR (Calcium, Rust, Lime)! Great idea!
Ever had any clouding? My water was pretty milky when I dumped it.
yep, ma H/C is copper/brass and the swiftech is the same
i just make shure that i flush everything out REALLY well before re-assembling my loop
i use a vinegar bath for my blocks.
people say not to use CLR or vinegar for rads but its never hurt me so
my tubes get the same milky build up on the inside but my loop was up for quite a long time (2+yrs), i was running 90% distilled with 10% antifreeze
i threw one of the tubes in a bucket with warm soapy water and it seems to take the stuff off, with help from an old toothbrush
Right on! Thanks for all the help!
Mine started to build up the scale about 2 months in. I must not have been very thorough in my rinse!
Ae you saying that primoflex hose has white stuff, or that was after you cleaned it? And its recommended to clean the radiator before installing?
It developed a white scale (like around faucets in the shower) from something leaching into the coolant (in my case-distilled water w/PT Nuke). I have yet to clean it out.
It is a generally accepted proceedure to flush your radiator thoroughly before installing since there is a lot of flux residue left from the manufacturing process. This is ONE of the reasons for cloudy tubes/water.
My old thermaltake bigwater system with a external radiator never had that problem. I ran it for months on end and it was always clear with no white or milky residue. Possibly the type of fluid is doing that?
Also i was reading through and i couldnt find a real sure answer on what to use to clean the new radiator if necessary that wont leave a milky residue. Hot water wont work?
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