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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

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Wile E

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I knew the first ones leaked and they were reworking it. Two things....couldnt find it at PPC (still OOS), also I dont think I want a bay res, no real reason I guess. I was thinking along the lines of a POM80/100 for a res in the optical bays with the pump, I think I can control the tubing better.

Lots of thinking going on...feel free to interject some reality;)
I was thinking less about tubing, and more about pump efficiency. I'm just wondering how much the 655 might struggle with all that in series. Then again, it might not.

If you want to go with simplified tubing, did you see teh new Koolance reservoir tops for the D5/655's? http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=934

Just add the Koolance res tube of your choice from the TNK-BDxxx series. http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=57_112
 

sneekypeet

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Oh snap, I got Cold Storms old EK pump top. Thinking 3/8 tubing too if it matters.

Do like the idea of the other top and screw in res though, that is the first I have see it for the 655.
 

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Oh snap, I got Cold Storms old EK pump top. Thinking 3/8 tubing too if it matters.

Do like the idea of the other top and screw in res though, that is the first I have see it for the 655.
With that much stuff on a single pump, I'd stick with 1/2" or 7/16" tubing, just to be safe.
 

sneekypeet

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seriously? 1/2" is not what I wanted to hear, since the GB chipset block has 3/8" barbs, I was going to clamp there, and likely stretch the rest on 1/2" DD barbs.
 

Wile E

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From what I understand, the GB chipset block isn't very effective. It just bolts on top of a heatsink, doesn't it? Maybe your loop would be better off without it?
 

sneekypeet

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Card is heating the Cool Pipe air cooler or whatever they call it:(
 

Wile E

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But once the card is on water, do you think it will bleed as much heat to the chipset?
 

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check that pic on the last page...its like 1-2mm over the PCB of the grahics, granted it wont be as much heat dump, but.....
Damn it Wile_e now Im thinking of going back the the original plan of two loops....grumbles about shelling out more loot.
 

Wile E

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check that pic on the last page...its like 1-2mm over the PCB of the grahics, granted it wont be as much heat dump, but.....
Damn it Wile_e now Im thinking of going back the the original plan of two loops....grumbles about shelling out more loot.
Honestly, with that much hardware, 2 loops is the better choice, imo. Run cpu and chipset together on 3/8", no probs, then cards on their own loop.
 
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Need some advice on CPU blocks. Whats the one or the top 3 to look at these days?
Swiftech XT, Heatkiller 3.0, Koolance 360. The only order to these three is in increasing price. They are all good.
 
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I think this should sum it up nicely:

 
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Can the large lugs on the bottom of my 5870 block be removed and swapped with the fittings, to allow different tube routing? I'm thinking probably "yes." As you can see, the tubing has slipped back from the barbs, just a tad. I don't think it's going anywhere with the clamps, but bottom route would take most of the bends and stess out of the tube.

 
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Can the large lugs on the bottom of my 5870 block be removed and swapped with the fittings, to allow different tube routing? I'm thinking probably "yes." As you can see, the tubing has slipped back from the barbs, just a tad. I don't think it's going anywhere with the clamps, but bottom route would take most of the bends and stess out of the tube.

http://img.techpowerup.org/100605/007.jpg
Yeah, it can be removed and placed. It's just a normal G1/4 fitting. All blocks now a day are built for SLI/Crossfire.
 
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I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator. Any input? I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now. For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.
 

Wile E

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I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator. Any input? I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now. For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.
Push works better for me. But, every setup could be different. Try both ways.
 
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I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator. Any input? I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now. For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.
I've seen all combinations of push, pull, and push/pull combo and the results are very close for the push vs pull. Push/Pull is the best, even with cheap 800rpm fans on one side and good 1600rpm's on the other.

My new Thermochill rad says to mount fans with a shroud in a pull fashion. My 120.2 is pull right now, but no shroud.
 
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It's me again, Margaret:D

Have any of you used alloy fittings on a Swiftech Micro Res? I got tired of looking at the black acrylic fittings, so when I drained my loop I replaced them with some extra DD wide mouths. Seems to be working fine, but the turbulence has really changed, now it's hard to tell if any water is moving at all. I'm thinking this is because of the shorter backsides of the metal fittings. The plastic ones are quite extended.

Anyhow, just looking for any heads ups before trouble arises.
 
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It's me again, Margaret:D

Have any of you used alloy fittings on a Swiftech Micro Res? I got tired of looking at the black acrylic fittings, so when I drained my loop I replaced them with some extra DD wide mouths. Seems to be working fine, but the turbulence has really changed, now it's hard to tell if any water is moving at all. I'm thinking this is because of the shorter backsides of the metal fittings. The plastic ones are quite extended.

Anyhow, just looking for any heads ups before trouble arises.
I am running black Bitspower fittings on my MCRES, both on the inlet and the outlet. No problems whatsoever.
 
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Groovy. I assumed there would be no troubles, but was a little trepidatious about deviating from the stock fittings and mixing acrylic with metal.
 
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Got my loop all put back together. I changed out the Scythe Kaze for some Panflows, what a difference. They move a lot of air, and are really quiet. Nice to find out that they really are worth the money. I also changed the fittings on my VGA, which cleaned up the unusual bends in my loop.

Lastly, I was damn disappointed that I couldn't fit my new Bitspower 150 Water Tank anywhere. I tried turning the PSU on its side, everything I could think of, to no avail. I even considered piggybacking it to my 3.120. I'm open to any suggestions. Oh well, to tell you the truth, I really like the layout I have, I just wanted more capacity.

 

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Inside the drive bays.
 
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How does pump speed relate to temperatures? Does higher flow always equate to lower temperatures?

The reason I ask is I have my 655 at about 3.5 out of 5 for noise purposes. As summer gets warmer, is there much benefit to increasing my pump as well as the fans? I know I could monkey around with things and answer my own question, but I'm sure you people already know.
 
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for single loops(CPU/GPU only) i would say low pump speed(2/3 + for d5) as otherwise the flow would be too high(personal experience) i dont touch my fan's much they always sit at 5/7volt.

if i had your loop i would run it at full whack (4+ at least)

just experiment with the pump and fan speed's, all the WC systems i have built seem to all be different

good luck.
 
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Nice thread. Thinking of joining up..... Only looking to cool my CPU at the moment. Any recomendations for someone on a very tight budget?
 
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