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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

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For a Tight budget, I suggest, if you can get it second hand, grab a Corsair h50 or Coolit Eco.. I am more towards ECO due to reviews edging it out over the h50..
 
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for single loops(CPU/GPU only) i would say low pump speed(2/3 + for d5) as otherwise the flow would be too high(personal experience) i dont touch my fan's much they always sit at 5/7volt.

if i had your loop i would run it at full whack (4+ at least)

just experiment with the pump and fan speed's, all the WC systems i have built seem to all be different

good luck.
I'm pretty sure it's been proven time and time again that lower flow rates never result in lower temps, mainly because the higher the flow rate the more "thermal cycles" the liquid does in a period of time.
 
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Nice thread. Thinking of joining up..... Only looking to cool my CPU at the moment. Any recomendations for someone on a very tight budget?
I'm not sure, being that you're down under. From what people post on here, it seems like everything costs a bundle in Australia.

From what melee49 has found, a good dual radiator system will cool about anything, and can be put together relatively cheap.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128424
 
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I'm not sure, being that you're down under. From what people post on here, it seems like everything costs a bundle in Australia.

From what melee49 has found, a good dual radiator system will cool about anything, and can be put together relatively cheap.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128424


Yeah I checked out that thread when melee49 done.:laugh: What size tubing is the best and what fittings should I use to go with it? Thats the main thing I want to know. Already have a H50. I think its time I done a "Real" Water loop.
So far my list contains
Swiftech Apogee XT
EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240
EK-DCP 4.0
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced

Just need to know what fittings and tube to get.
 
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t_ski

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I just found this. Subscribed so I can remember to look at all the pretty pics and then post my own rig up. :pimp:
 
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I just found this. Subscribed so I can remember to look at all the pretty pics and then post my own rig up. :pimp:
Why wait? I wanna see pics now:p
 

t_ski

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OK, here's an old one:



Going out with the wife now. Maybe tomorrow I'll post some newer shots.
 
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Very nice, t_ski. Is there a res hidden up top? Looks like maybe pump>rad>mobo>cpu>gpu>pump?
 
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ill probably get into trouble for this but just an FYI im selling all my WC gear cheap in my FS thread.
 
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t_ski

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Very nice, t_ski. Is there a res hidden up top? Looks like maybe pump>rad>mobo>cpu>gpu>pump?
Actually, it's pump > CPU > GPU (will be GPU 1 & 2) > mobo > rad > res > pump. This is the best way to keep the tubing to a minimum for what I wanted to do. Below are some more pics. Please ignore the dust, as I am doing some remodeling. I need to take the case up to the garage and blow it out good :(

Quad rad:



Rad and res setup:





And how I mounted the rad:



I bought some right-angle brackets and cut them down. I used some small aluminum tubes to help left everything off the back of the case, and some nuts and bolts to hold it all together. There are four brackets that are used to hold the rad, and the bolts go through the fans on the back of the case to the brackets. Turns out the thickness of the rad plus a 25mm fan is exactly the same thickness as the gap between the brackets, so everything worked out perfectly. I have four San Ace 38mm thick fans on one side, and three Yate Loon 25mm UV blue M's on the other side. I need to make another cable so I can run the San Ace's at 5V, 12V or off, and the Yates at 5V, 12V or off, or any combination of the two together (off my Zalman MFC1).

I have a bunch of compression fittings I need to install to get rid of all the worm clamps. I also have another EK block for my second 5970, and I will be using parallel flow between the cards so I can keep the rest of the loop the same.
 
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I see. I actually had guessed the order correctly, and then edited my post because I thought I had grown a brain:laugh:

Do you find keeping the length of tubing shorter has more advantages than component order? The reason I ask is: I know that total absorption of heat into the water will happen no matter what the order, so I could save about 18" of tube travel if I went pump>rad>cpu>gpu>rad>res>pump as opposed to pump>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>res>pump. That's a long sentence:eek: Despite the notion of equilibrium, I just like having one of my two rads before each major component. Perhaps shorter tubing could be a valid reason to override my OCD concerning rad placement?
 

Wile E

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Shorter tubing only has benefits when you are nearing the limits of your pumps' head pressure abilities.

With 2 rads and 2 blocks on a single loop, it might be worth your while to shorten your runs. Then again, it could be a total wash.

If your system is performing up to your standards, I'd say do what you prefer.
 

t_ski

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On top of that, I think it looks clean. I just don't link to see 14 feet of tubing inside a case.
 

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I use all of this crap, bunch of 90 degree fitting included with a MCP355 and have plenty of head pressure.

 
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Well I made the order... will be back in a few days with pics. For a first time water cool adventure should I fit it out and then pull it apart again and run it on the table for 24 hours to make sure there are no leaks? Also I notice a lot of people just using distilled water. Any reason why? I ordered some swiftech green stuff to add to my distilled water. Should I just run distilled by itself?
 
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t_ski

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I don't pull it out unless necessary. That goes for my watercooling loops, too.
 
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I don't pull it out unless necessary. That goes for my watercooling loops, too.
:laugh: So fit it fill it and then run it from a seperate power source to check for leaks?
 

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Coolants, additives, etc. just muck up the loop after a while and have no real cooling benefits.
 
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Yes, bleed the line by allowing water to fill the tubing, blocks, and radiator. Be prepared to add more water to your res/fill line. You may even need to pick up your case and gently rock it back and forth to get all those bubbles out.

By the way, the best(hands down) review for 480 waterblocks has been published by Skinee:

http://skinneelabs.com/gtx480-fc.html

DD's block preforms well, Evga's block does well on the core but Sucks balls on the VRM's(90C load), but the Aquagrafx stands at the top of the charts every time.
 
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Yes, bleed the line by allowing water to fill the tubing, blocks, and radiator. Be prepared to add more water to your res/fill line. You may even need to pick up your case and gently rock it back and forth to get all those bubbles out.

By the way, the best(hands down) review for 480 waterblocks has been published by Skinee:

http://skinneelabs.com/gtx480-fc.html

DD's block preforms well, Evga's block does well on the core but Sucks balls on the VRM's(90C load), but the Aquagrafx stands at the top of the charts every time.
Thanks. I am just worried about it leaking is all. I ordered brass 1/2" fittings and worm drive hose clamps so hopefully it will be safe.:(
 
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Clamps will do fine, just check the connections while it's pumping water through the system. Even if you get water on something just plug a fan in or point a hair dryer at it for a while.

Once I had to briefly resecure a fitting with a full loop, spilled water on the mobo and gpu but I let it bleed again for an hour with fans running and everything dried up really quick. :)
 
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Thanks for you help. I am sure if I get stuck someone here will help me out. I ended up with this stuff plus fittings of course
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2 ID
EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Waterblock
EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced
 
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You're gonna love it, Craigleberry. I can't see myself every going back to air. I think that's the way everyone except crazyeyes feels once everything is up and running:laugh:

Probably seen this before, but this is how I did mine. It seems like a pain to mount everything, then take it out and leak test it on a table.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128783&p=1992663


On another note, it's nice to see this thread get some love, for a change.
 

Wile E

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I just leak test mine fully assembled. It's pointless to do it any other way. Just moving the loop after an external leak test can make it spring a leak, so you need to test it in your case anyway.

And I only leaks test for like 15min, tops. Usually closer to 10 minutes. lol.