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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

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Ha!

I'm looking at that thinking, that looks familiar - You've got a Raven case? Same internals as the Fortress I have. Did you know the plastic brackets the noctua fans are attached to is actually intended to mount the 180mm fans to the radiator directly?

I couldn't because of my gfx card length - had to get that Stealth GT rad but it worked out well.
 
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Ha!

I'm looking at that thinking, that looks familiar - You've got a Raven case? Same internals as the Fortress I have. Did you know the plastic brackets the noctua fans are attached to is actually intended to mount the 180mm fans to the radiator directly?

I couldn't because of my gfx card length - had to get that Stealth GT rad but it worked out well.

Yes this is my Raven RV02, you can mount 120mm fans to the original brackets.

Can mount only 3x120mm rads or 2x140mm rads directly on the 180mm stock fans but do not have the right efficiency and the air does not pass well through the radiator ... it is better to have the right size fan mounted on radiator

You have to install a SLIM radiator if you want to keep the two 180mm silverstone fan.

The best thing is to remove the original fan and do like I did in the picture, is also better to have fans that blow air to the radiator rather than aspiring.
 
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Ah, right. I thought with a standard gfx card you could get a proper thickness rad but it seems we're both in the same boat. Works really well though with the slim rad and the fans under (blowing).

I'm tempted to stick with my case when i next upgrade for Ivy Bridge. Though I might get me a Temjin TJ07 while they're still around and keep it safe.....
 

JrRacinFan

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This is my quick sketch-up of a potential layout for my upcoming loop in a Rocketfish case. Anyone see any kinks or problems i may come about? It will be either 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. Uncertain if I will be switching out the res from a cylindrical to a swifty micro or a dual bay.

Airflow: fans will push from the lower bottom towards the back and it will have intake in the lower portion in the front.
 

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That looks interesting.
 
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This is my quick sketch-up of a potential layout for my upcoming loop in a Rocketfish case. Anyone see any kinks or problems i may come about? It will be either 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. Uncertain if I will be switching out the res from a cylindrical to a swifty micro or a dual bay.

Airflow: fans will push from the lower bottom towards the back and it will have intake in the lower portion in the front.
How big is your radiator? It looks small but i'm guessing the drawing isn't to scale.

This the same case? Googled some images.

 

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That looks great!
 

JrRacinFan

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How big is your radiator? It looks small but i'm guessing the drawing isn't to scale.

This the same case? Googled some images.

http://hondaswap.com/gallery/data/589/medium/DSC01201.JPG
Same case and not to scale, mine's also going to look even cleaner. It's going to be a BIX II to start out and not adding the GPU to the loop just yet. May add a second rad in the not so near future but soon. Tomorrow is D-Day will post pics of the 'ware.:rockout:
 

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I get my WC stuff tomorrow too! :rockout:
 

JrRacinFan

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Chicken Patty

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Once I have the stuff I'm going to figure out the layout. But yeah, I'll be posting here and in the log. :toast: I'm going to be doing a little side project first. Going to put my GTX295 on the tech bench rig and watercool it. But no log for that though.

I really need to start folding again, that's why I am giving priority to that.
 

JrRacinFan

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Watercooled GTX295? Mmmm beefy, completely forgot you had that. Whats the PPD output of that, never asked you before. You ever get a new card replacement from that 8800GT?
 

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About 14-15k ppd stock clocks.
 

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My 2nd cruncher/folder. Nothing pretty, just effective :laugh:

 

JrRacinFan

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There's mine until I can situate a case mod and get a few needed parts. There's going to be some work needed.
 

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Little by little JR, glad to see you back into water cooling. :toast:
 
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Quick Disconnects

A question for the guru's.

I'm building a new rig and installing w/c (of course). Well my 3930 will need some cooling when i thrash it's arse off!!

Anyhoo, I fully plan to get a new gfx card when the new series come out and w/c it as well. To keep my loop hassle free i've bought a couple of 'Y' splitters which i plan to attach to the inlet on my reservoir and the outlet on my radiator.

Each 'Y' will have a redundant leg on it with a Phobya quick disconnect (one half). When i buy my gfx card in (?) months time, I'll be able to easily swap it in (by attaching the other halves of the disconnects) and have a parallel cpu and gfx loop, without having to take anything apart.

Does this make sense to anyone? I've spent hours trying to figure out the fool proof way of upgrading the loop to a full loop without messing around with tube re-attaching and draining etc.
 

t_ski

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Just put the quick-disconnects before and after the video card. That way, you can just power down the system, pull out the part of the loop with the video card in it, swap in the card with the new waterblock, and you're good to go. No need for any Y connectors that I'm aware of.
 
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The initial set up wont have a w/c gfx card (I have a GTX 580 lightning which serves me well).

I don't see another way without a second loop. I've checked a few forum posts and although serial is the preferred choice I have come across a few parallel loops.

My other option is to not be lazy and make a suitable drain port and just rework it when i get round to adding in the gfx w/c.
 

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Or....take your disconnects and put them before and after the CPU block in the loop for just the CPU. Then when you get a card block, break the connections and pull the board. Build the board up and prep all the tubing and such on the table. Then its pretty much adaptive to any loop that has the other halves of the quick disconnect.

Let me draw in the dirt and see if I can explain it.
In the image the red blocks are the disconnects, and the blue curved lines are the CPU loop. As you can see the top line stays as it was originally. What changes its the out going tube from the CPU. When you add the block, you pull that chunk of tube once everything is on the table and you can set it around a bowl or a sink to catch what is in the board side of the loop. Then just go from the CPU to the GPU as the green curves denote. Then you clip it back into the loop, add some fluid as you re-bleed the loop, and presto!

 
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Thanks Sneeky.

Found this pic and although it isn't exactly what I'll do, it reassures me it's ok to do it. Disconnect on cpu outlet and on reservoir inlet. So similar to your idea I can take out one length of tubing and then reroute from cpu to gfx to res. And i saved a bit by buying Phobya disconnects, the Koolance ones were almost twice the cost.

 

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yeah as far as I know they can go anywhere in the line, just a matter of hiding it while making sure its easy to get to;)
 
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Santa came early.

If that is, you buy your own stuff....

IMG_0069.jpg


and it all goes inside here...

IMG_0072.JPG


Going to spray paint the interior black and take some time deciding the best way to set it up (not modding by any means). For the record, whats the best method for getting a nice matt coat? I've kept the box so i'll be using that as a 'paint studio'.
Bought an entire new set up (minus gfx) so i can keep using my current one while i get this going. I'm not a very patient hobbyist but it's time I learned! First step, nothing goes in until it's all black....
 

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lol.

I've bought the same Lian Li panels, I've been looking at a Lamptron 6 fan controller, I've got the same D5 pump and top and Blue is my choice of colour for lightning, to go with the black innards.

I don't have the patience to tinker with the sleeves.

But yeah, it will be similar (but not quite as good as yours). I need a USB 3 front panel as well.

I'm assuming any metal paint is okay as long as it's used with a primer and multiple even layers?