Discussion in 'TechPowerUp Club Forum' started by EastCoasthandle, Feb 8, 2008.
my water cooling system
After wating liquid cooling parts for long time.Here it is.
more pics here
I can almost guarantee all that watercooling wont fit in this HAF XB.Id eliminate the 80mm rad and go with the dual rads up top
oooh! Triplet Watercooling Fun! let us see the benches when youre finished, CDA
Motherboard is labeled out for delivery so it should be here soon so I can finish this up.
Motherboard was DOA, but I wanted to test fit the setup to get all the tubing cut.
Rest of the thread
I'm putting the paddles on this thread to resessitate it. Can you guys give [Ion] some advice?
Will new tubing and clamps get him up and going? This is for a Thermaltake Bigwater 760 kit BTW.
Actually it's not--this is for the custom loop I've but on my 3930k (the TT Bigwater kit is doing great).
XSPC X20 750 Dual 5.25" Pump / Reservoir Combo
I've tossed the old tubing--will buying new tubing and clamps be sufficient?
The Bigwater is a pre-assembled factory unit? I had a look just there at a review of one. The barbs are 3/8" so i don't see why you couldn't just add new tubing and clamps to be safe. As long as the cpu block is there too. Or indeed, i guess this could be used to cool a gpu?
It is noisy at load though (says the review).
EDIT: too late .....
Yes, it would. I'd go for tubing that is one size narrower than the barbs you use. And on that front - remember your fittings.... (barbs or compression)
my guess is that the fittings are what leaked. You must wrench in those fittings to keep them from leaking, because just a slight twist in the tube is enough to back the fitting out when installed finger tight like you can with say a BitsPower fitting. Clamps aren't such a big deal, I mean I have used zip-ties, or those Herby clips that come with the kits.
That's why i like rotary fittings. Freedom to move the tubing.
[Ion] was looking at some 7/16" Primochill tubing. 1/2" clamps are OK with this, right?
I used 3/8" and there was no need for clamps as you have to heat and stretch the tubing. 7/16" isn't enough of a jump to warrant clamps in my opinion as I would guess that needs stretched as well.
1/2" clamps wont close enough and may make them be out of round or in the case of the Herby style clamps, may not close with any pressure.
to go with this tubing;
Let me find one of mine, squeeze it all the way closed, and get the calipers out to find the minimum ID of the clip (also those are what I was calling Herby clamps).
I figured out what I missed. My clamps are 3/4" OD clamps, and when the clip is all the way closed I get a measurement of 47/64" (just less than 3/4") or 18.5mm. From what I am seeing, the 1/2" clamp may tighten enough for pressure on the hose, but since he has to stretch the tubing, essentially he is thinning the OD of the tubing as well. Also with that same clamp just locked on one click, it is 15/16" wide, so maybe using 3/8" clamps and not closing them all the way is a better way to look at the clamps needed.
I'm running the TT Bigwater on a 3.8GHz E8500--it's doing great. Last night I robbed off the fan and forgot to put on a new one, and the system remained fully stable (albeit at 80C)
It's not the fittings. I didn't have enough of the factory tubing to reassemble it, so I tried to use some tubing left over from a fountain project one of my friends did last semester. The tubing is too big for the barbs--that's what leaked. The kit came with some of these--they do a good job, but I don't have enough. I think that if I buy half a dozen of them and then seven feet of this I should be good to go. I think
Thank you! Would cable ties work? The only ones I Have here are tiny ones, but I have some real ones at home (I'm moving home again in a week, anyways)
I have had great success with zip ties and a pair of pliers to make sure it is tight, then just clip off the excess.
OK. In that case should I just order the tubing? Would that be sufficient to last a few days until I can cable-tie it as well?
well the 750 pump isn't that powerful, so I am guessing that the 7/16" tubing should stay in place just with the pressure of the barb on the fitting. I use 3/8" without any clamping on 1/2" barbs and you have to cut it off the fitting.
To tell if you are going to be okay without anything, put the hose on a fitting attached to say the CPU block, then pull on the tubing while holding the block. If it pops right off, you need something to clamp it, if it stays in place, you are good to go.
With the tubing that came with the kit, I can't remove the tubing from the fitting unless the fitting is screwed into a block or something and I can grip it better. Even then, it helps enormously to heat it up a bit. So I assume for a few days I'd be OK?
And the 750 pump is sufficient for a single block and two radiators, right?
I saw this thread earlier--would it be worth my while to bleach all of the components of the loop as well? I'm not sure that I can get those tiny rocks, but bleach I'm sure is at the grocery store.
And how do I avoid this happening again? I'm not exactly thrilled with this, surprisingly enough
the stock tubing is very loose on the fittings, so it should easily come off. Since you are going to a smaller tubing anyways, why not get 3/8" tubing, heat and stretch the tubing, and have no need for any clamps at all.
As far as cleaning the loop, I don't know that I would go to bleach, maybe vinegar and baking soda, but I think bleach is a little harsh, and if you leave some residue, I have no idea how it will effect the tubing if pumped through it.
The pump is fine for that loop, but not as powerful as say a 655/35x that may blow those hoses off the fittings (and why I mentioned it not being so powerful).
If the rad is green, it was either a chemical reaction to the copper (oxidation) or you had natural light shining on something to grow algae. They do make additives to keep this from happening in the future too.
Also to add, your link shows to me, bits of copper stuck in the pores of the tubing. Every time I have used clear tubing they look like that, and is why I no longer use it.
This is exactly what I have. The stock tubing didn't feel loose at all. I'm worried about possibly getting tubing that's too small--I have about 15ft of blue tubing here that I simply cannot force over the barbs. It just doesn't fit. It's Feser 3/8" x 1/2".
And the rad wasn't green--just the tubing.
Get a microwave safe cup/bowl, heat until it starts to boil. Dunk the end of the tube in the water for 10-20 seconds, then quickly stretch it over the 1/2" barb. It is tougher to do, but gives a slick finished result.
Quite frankly that looks amazing. The tubing certainly is stretched remarkably tight
I'll try again tonight to see what I can accomplish. And this can just be stretched like that by hand?
Let me give you the rundown....
Try dunking it and pressing it over, thicker walled tubing is somewhat easier to do this with.
I use thinner walled tubing, and I do have to heat them as usual, but I do also stick a pair of needle-nose pliers about an inch into the hose and open them backwards to help stretch the end. Usually a couple of times to really loosen it up. You do have to be fast though, because once the heat is gone from the tubing, it will be normal sized by then, and you need to start the process over again.
I also suggest the barbs are in the blocks, rads, whatever, as it gives you much better purchase to push against rather than trying to weasel it over the barb only.
Sometimes it may get tight on the fittings, but you just have to keep working it past the sticky spots until the hose hits the back of the barb. I have thought of using a bit of soap in the water to help it slide, but have always been able to work past it without an additive. (not sure if soap residue will end up in the loop and making bubbles) I have been known to use some good old fashioned spit to help them slide easier though
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