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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

[Ion]

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Let me give you the rundown....

Try dunking it and pressing it over, thicker walled tubing is somewhat easier to do this with.
I use thinner walled tubing, and I do have to heat them as usual, but I do also stick a pair of needle-nose pliers about an inch into the hose and open them backwards to help stretch the end. Usually a couple of times to really loosen it up. You do have to be fast though, because once the heat is gone from the tubing, it will be normal sized by then, and you need to start the process over again.

I also suggest the barbs are in the blocks, rads, whatever, as it gives you much better purchase to push against rather than trying to weasel it over the barb only.
I just tried it with one of the spare barbs that came with the kit, and, yes, it did seem to go on. It's slow and painful and I burned myself a couple times, but it did work. I can try using the pliers on my knife to see if that helps any. And I boiled water on the stove that might work better as well. Thank you! :)

What I'm confused about though--how would I do this once the parts are mounted in the case? Pushing things together with the reservoir in the drive bays would be the hardest, IMO. Given that the reservoir/pump has to in through the front of the case and everything else is inside, I can't assemble the loop outside and then install it.
 

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I just tried it with one of the spare barbs that came with the kit, and, yes, it did seem to go on. It's slow and painful and I burned myself a couple times, but it did work. I can try using the pliers on my knife to see if that helps any. And I boiled water on the stove that might work better as well. Thank you! :)

What I'm confused about though--how would I do this once the parts are mounted in the case? Pushing things together with the reservoir in the drive bays would be the hardest, IMO. Given that the reservoir/pump has to in through the front of the case and everything else is inside, I can't assemble the loop outside and then install it.
I never said it was easy;)
I just hold the cup closer and soak the short tubes too, and then you just have to contort yourself to be able to press them on.

Edit: misread the loop run part. I have always been able to work the tubing on in pretty much any chassis, it just takes time, lots of measuring and trimming, and the finished product is well worth the time IMHO.
 

[Ion]

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I never said it was easy;)
I just hold the cup closer and soak the short tubes too, and then you just have to contort yourself to be able to press them on.

Edit: misread the loop run part. I have always been able to work the tubing on in pretty much any chassis, it just takes time, lots of measuring and trimming, and the finished product is well worth the time IMHO.
Excellent. I'll see what I can do tonight! I still need to figure out how to get things clean. Should I do more boiling? Or search for bleach? Or both? I don't want to have to do things again :p
 

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I would try using boiling water for the rad and just do it a few times. see what happens for free first. If that doesn't work, and you do want to use the bleach, use like a cap of bleach for every gallon of water. This way you should be able to rinse it all out, and if it is algae or something living, it will die and rinse out.

If you are looking to clean the tubing, you are pretty screwed. It is porous,and the bits are near impossible to remove from it. I have tried with various chemicals and a bottle brush with absolutely no success.
 

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If you decide to go with zip ties on the fittings, loop them around a second time before you put them through the clamp end. The way zip ties work, there's usually a 90-degree angle between the two ends, so the second loop takes the pressure and spreads it out a little more. That's one thing I've read, but have never done. I've used worm clamps before and then went to compression fittings.

You might be able to find some vinyl tubing at your local hardware store. Typically it's thin-wall stuff though.
 

[Ion]

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I think that if I use the 3/8" tubing I have that I won't need anything to keep it in place--that stuff holds on ferociously well :p

And am I OK to just use distilled water + biocide again, or should I use distilled mixed with the Thermaltake coolant from you or something special?
 

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I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.
 

[Ion]

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I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.
Sounds good. Direct sunshine isn't typically an issue--and I expect it to be less of one when I go home.

Any particular reason you shy away from them? Price only, or something else?
 

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Sounds good. Direct sunshine isn't typically an issue--and I expect it to be less of one when I go home.

Any particular reason you shy away from them? Price only, or something else?
usually they dye everything, build up in the blocks, and ends up more of a maintenance issue, where you can buy colored tubing, get the same effect, and less BS to deal with.
 

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I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.
^ This

usually they dye everything, build up in the blocks, and ends up more of a maintenance issue, where you can buy colored tubing, get the same effect, and less BS to deal with.
sneeky knows his stuff after all the parts he's reviewed :pimp:
 
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I use a clear premixed from aquacomputer, DP ultra, has never given me problems.

I agree that dyes are to stay away from but a clear premixed is better than straight distilled imho, cost excluded.
 
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I've always been a fan of fuel injector hose clamps you can get at an auto supply store. They wrap completely around the hose with a solid metal loop. They're cheap, and you won't have to pay for shipping and wait.



Fuel injector clamp on the left, regular hose clamp on right.
 

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run strait peroxide though the loop to kill the algae bleach corrodes
 
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I've always been a fan of fuel injector hose clamps you can get at an auto supply store. They wrap completely around the hose with a solid metal loop. They're cheap, and you won't have to pay for shipping and wait.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fuel/FuelInjectedCJ01/clamp.jpg

Fuel injector clamp on the left, regular hose clamp on right.
Not the best solution, except that in your case there are high temperatures and pressures as well as meteorological changes which constitute a use of metal clamp like in a car race 24 Hours of LeMans...

But I understand if you like them for aesthetics.
 

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there actually called band-clamps you don't use rubber line on a fuel injected system
 

cdawall

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there actually called band-clamps you don't use rubber line on a fuel injected system
Depends how modern I have an FI XJ that begs to differ about rubber lines.
 

[Ion]

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My loop is up and going again now--all is doing well. I'll try to get pictures of the new-and-improved system later :toast:
 

cdawall

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My loop is up and going again now--all is doing well. I'll try to get pictures of the new-and-improved system later :toast:
Good I'm glad to hear. Temps improve any?
 

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Depends how modern I have an FI XJ that begs to differ about rubber lines.
steel braided or Kevlar reinforced Maby iv never seen a FI system with strait rubber and cord lines
 

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steel braided or Kevlar reinforced Maby iv never seen a FI system with strait rubber and cord lines
OE Jeep Cherokee lines on my 94 are straight non synthetic rubber and cord. I know this for a fact as I have replaced the line running to the injectors on mine and about half a dozen others because ethanol rots it outs.

The second radiator seems to have brought temps down about 5-6C.
Not to shabby how far above ambient are you
 

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OE Jeep Cherokee lines on my 94 are straight non synthetic rubber and cord. I know this for a fact as I have replaced the line running to the injectors on mine and about half a dozen others because ethanol rots it outs.



Not to shabby how far above ambient are you
Upper 60s C on the 3930k @ 4.48/1.368V--ambients ~70F or so.
 

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[Ion]

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Motherboard BIOSTAR H61M / HP Q77 / Supermicro H8QG7
Cooling Stock / Stock / 4x 1U G34
Memory 1x8GB / 2x4GB / 4x4GB
Video Card(s) GTX260 / Intel HD 4000 / nVidia GT310
Storage 80GB Intel SSD / 256GB Intel SSD / 2x 60GB SSD (RAID1)
Display(s) Dell 3007 + HP 2245w / 12.1" 1366x768 / None
Case Antec NSK3480 / HP / Supermicro 1U
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Enermax 500W / HP 130W / Supermicro Gold 1400W
Keyboard IBM Model M
Software Windows 7 (Niedersachsen/Ribe) / Linux Mint 17.2 (Minsk)
Still to high for me :slap:
Well, I'd say it's good enough. I'm going to see if I can pull 4.7GHz or so on it. With the Xigmatek Gaia it was running nearly at TJmax (~87C) even at 4.2GHz, so I think this is a huge improvement :toast:
 

cdawall

where the hell are my stars
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
26,569 (6.38/day)
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7,469
Location
Houston
System Name Team Blue
Processor 5960X@4.8 1.42v
Motherboard Asus X99M-WS
Cooling EK Supremecy EVO, MCR220-Stack+MCR220+MCR320, D5-PWM+EK X-RES 140
Memory 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200 CL16
Video Card(s) (2) EVGA SC BLACK 1080Ti's+ EVGA reference 1080Ti soon to be under water
Storage Samsung SM951 512GB, Samsung PM961 512GB
Display(s) Dell UP2414Q 3840X2160@60hz
Case Caselabs Mercury S5
Audio Device(s) Fischer HA-02->Fischer FA-002W High edition/FA-003/Jubilate/FA-011 depending on my mood
Power Supply Seasonic Prime 1200w
Mouse Thermaltake Theron
Keyboard Thermaltake Poseidon ZX
Software W10P
Benchmark Scores Zoom zoom mofo
Well, I'd say it's good enough. I'm going to see if I can pull 4.7GHz or so on it. With the Xigmatek Gaia it was running nearly at TJmax (~87C) even at 4.2GHz, so I think this is a huge improvement :toast:
I'm spoiled with my AMD stuff 28C load with three gtx 470s in the loop.