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New build not powering up...

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Just take a plain paper clip, straighten it out and connect the two wires in the diagram. If your PSU turns on, your PSU is fine. Make sure you disconnect the P4 connector from the mobo before doing this.

As long as the two wires are connected, the PSU is enabled. As soon as you break the circuit, the PSU will shut off (like shutting down your PC).
 
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What's a P4 connector =x

And FML I don't have any paper clips at home. Can you believe my luck? I'm gonna use a damn staple.
 
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What's a P4 connector =x

And FML I don't have any paper clips at home. Can you believe my luck? I'm gonna use a damn staple.

The 4 wire, +12v connector by the processor/mosfet heatsink.
 
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What's a P4 connector =x

And FML I don't have any paper clips at home. Can you believe my luck? I'm gonna use a damn staple.

would be your cpu power
 
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The fan is running with the staples!

So what's the issue? >_>
 
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The fan is running with the staples!

So what's the issue? >_>

Most likely would be the motherboard shorting out against the chassis, or a dead motherboard.
 
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i'd seriously consider it the psu more than the motherboard, id say try using another psu for testing to make sure it isnt the motherboard

also to eliminate any probloms with the board shorting take it out of the case and plug it up ontop of the motherboard box
 
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i'd seriously consider it the psu more than the motherboard, id say try using another psu for testing to make sure it isnt the motherboard

Even if the fans run with staples connecting the 13th and 14th pin?
 
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Even if the fans run with staples connecting the 13th and 14th pin?

yup, even if the 12v rail is fine that doesnt mean that the 3.3v is all and dandy wich powers the cpu
 
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yup, even if the 12v rail is fine that doesnt mean that the 3.3v is all and dandy wich powers the cpu

I'm going to try now, thanks. I did have issues getting my sister's P4 up using the new PSU.
 
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this is really were an lcd power supply tester really comes in handy
 
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yup, even if the 12v rail is fine that doesnt mean that the 3.3v is all and dandy wich powers the cpu

I've never seen a psu with a bad 3.3v. It's always been the 12v, and I've replaced 100 psu's in customers machines. Not to say it's impossible, just not likely.

this is really were an lcd power supply tester really comes in handy

Yup, one should be in every enthusiasts toolbox.
 
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The problem we seem to have right now is with the 5V Standby rail. That powers the lights and the standby devices on the board when it is shut down.
 
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Okay I hooked up the cheap 500W power supply I had spare to just the P4 (4pin), 24pin, and 1 fan. When I hooked connected the power cable, the power/reset lights no longer blinked but stayed on solid. I tried hitting power, but nothing happened BUTTT I don't have my HDD connected because I took it out a little while back to try taking the CMOS battery out. (whole cage was in the way so I yanked it out)
 
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Okay I hooked up the cheap 500W power supply I had spare to just the P4 (4pin), 24pin, and 1 fan. When I hooked connected the power cable, the power/reset lights no longer blinked but stayed on solid. I tried hitting power, but nothing happened BUTTT I don't have my HDD connected because I took it out a little while back to try taking the CMOS battery out. (whole cage was in the way so I yanked it out)

The hard drive doesn't matter at this point. It sounds like you do have a motherboard problem here. :(
 
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Wait so even if the power/reset switches do not blink anymore with a different power supply, it still doesn't make the psu the culprit?
 
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Okay I hooked up the cheap 500W power supply I had spare to just the P4 (4pin), 24pin, and 1 fan. When I hooked connected the power cable, the power/reset lights no longer blinked but stayed on solid. I tried hitting power, but nothing happened BUTTT I don't have my HDD connected because I took it out a little while back to try taking the CMOS battery out. (whole cage was in the way so I yanked it out)

We are making progress. Looks like the original PSU had a problematic +5VSB rail. You should be able to get the board to POST, unless the board's CPU power circuitry requires an 8 Pin power connector. If you don't have the 8 Pin power and the 4 pin isn't enough, the board may not turn on (so it doesn't damage itself).
 
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We are making progress. Looks like the original PSU had a problematic +5VSB rail. You should be able to get the board to POST, unless the board's CPU power circuitry requires an 8 Pin power connector. If you don't have the 8 Pin power and the 4 pin isn't enough, the board may not turn on (so it doesn't damage itself).

This 500W power supply only has a 4 pin power connector so I cannot be sure.

So would it be safe to assume that both the motherboard and power supply have issues?
 
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This 500W power supply only has a 4 pin power connector so I cannot be sure.

Since the Power/Reset buttons are glowing solid, it should indicate that there aren't any electrical issues currently, except for the lack of 8pin power.
 
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Since the Power/Reset buttons are glowing solid, it should indicate that there aren't any electrical issues currently, except for the lack of 8pin power.

This kind of irks me a little, the motherboard came with half the P4 header blocked out leaving just a 4pin header available so I'm not sure whether or not it's 100% necessary to have the 8pin connected.
 
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adds extra stability if plugged in but shouldnt be needed, would reccomend taking the heatsink off and making sure the cpu is mounted and seated properly
 
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This kind of irks me a little, the motherboard came with half the P4 header blocked out leaving just a 4pin header available so I'm not sure whether or not it's 100% necessary to have the 8pin connected.

You should have the 8 pin connected, whenever possible.
 
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adds extra stability if plugged in but shouldnt be needed, would reccomend taking the heatsink off and making sure the cpu is mounted and seated properly

One question, which way should the little arrow on the i7 be placed?
 
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I'm downloading the RIIG manual right now to see if it needs 8pin.
 
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twords the keyed area in the socket, the one that has a slanted edge not a 90 degree angle. really the cpu should only go in one way to begin with
 
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