Nice haul

[Deleted member 24505]

Its a I5 2320. Checked it over today, no post, had a couple of very slightly bent pins in socket, sorted them out and works fine with 2x2gb ddr3 and the 6670 video card i found.

Seems the AM3 board might be dead, using same PSU as for the GA-75M-D3V if i connect the PS on pins the led on the PSU goes off and nothing, same PSU runs the GA-75 fine

 

[Bones]

Possibly a dead CPU causing it to auto-shutdown due to it being bad but that could be the board causing it too.
You wanna toss the CPU?
Just send it here - I'll give it a shot.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Possibly a dead CPU causing it to auto-shutdown due to it being bad but that could be the board causing it too.
You wanna toss the CPU?
Just send it here - I'll give it a shot.

I got another AM3+ board today, a gigabyte ga-78lmt today with a FX8320E in it. it posts fine. With the 8320 in it, no post, if put the 8320E in the 990 board it does the same, PSU just goes off, board does nothing, no lights, nothing. With the 8320 in the GA-78LMT no post. Should the 8320 be supported in the 78LMT?

 

[eazen]

I got another AM3+ board today, a gigabyte ga-78lmt today with a FX8320E in it. it posts fine. With the 8320 in it, no post, if put the 8320E in the 990 board it does the same, PSU just goes off, board does nothing, no lights, nothing. With the 8320 in the GA-78LMT no post. Should the 8320 be supported in the 78LMT?

Are you sure the bios supports it? Last shot before I would know the cpu is dead which it probably is.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Are you sure the bios supports it? Last shot before I would know the cpu is dead which it probably is.

The 78LMT definitely does as a 8320E is in effect a 8320, and both are on the supported list, and i am pretty sure a 990fx does support a 8320/E

 

[eazen]

The 78LMT definitely does as a 8320E is in effect a 8320, and both are on the supported list, and i am pretty sure a 990fx does support a 8320/E

I think they go for under 50 bucks now though.

 

[mama]

If it's in a skip and you haven't trespassed to get access then you're in the clear.

 

[Bones]

I got another AM3+ board today, a gigabyte ga-78lmt today with a FX8320E in it. it posts fine. With the 8320 in it, no post, if put the 8320E in the 990 board it does the same, PSU just goes off, board does nothing, no lights, nothing. With the 8320 in the GA-78LMT no post. Should the 8320 be supported in the 78LMT?

Yep - The CPU is dead.
Basically any AM3+ board should support a 8320 chip.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Could something have taken out the 990 board and the CPU?
There is no damage to the 990 board that I can see.

 

[Chrispy_]

6000 series as well as 5000 series were both made to be efficient, that’s nothing exclusive to 6000 series. 6000 series introduced VLIW4 arch with 6970 and 6950 those have bigger chips and more transistors, so your memory is 100% wrong, go check old reviews if you want, the 6970 is 20% faster than the 5970 and eats more power as well. Generally there’s no point in regressing performance, the only way is forward, not backwards or standstill.

"no u."
Seriously though, I'm definitely not wrong, you are.

The 6970 was slower than the 5970, the 6870 was slower than the 5870, and the 6850 was slower than the 5850.

Here's Techpowerup but Tom's and Anand are also in agreement. Saying I'm wrong is literally denying the evidence of three top independent reviewers of the day.

Find a credible source that paints a 6970 as 20% faster than a 5970 please.

Edit:
Actually, you made me go back and look at the 6670 specifically, (as per @Tigger's dumpster find) and it's probably the best indication we have that the HD6000 series VLIW4 was a flop both in the market, and internally at AMD.

Anand compared two cards we're interested in:

20% more resources AND clocked higher? Sadly the 6670 is only 10-12% faster than it's smaller, cheaper, older sibling. VLIW4 is not looking good here at all and at the $100 market (oh man that feels so strange to think that $100 was a price point with half-decent GPUs back then - how times have changed), performance/$ was way more important than raw performance, too.

Thinking about it, AMD abandoned VLIW4 immediately after a single generation. Just to rub salt in the wound, GCN which lasted for about a decade (!) went straight back to VLIW5.

 

[Keullo-e]

On way home from cycle shop. Spotted a skip so had a look and found all this stuff in it, got to go back as there is a socket A board in there too with some athlon CPU in it.

Not sure what the PCIe video card is, the AM3 CPU is a 8320 black edition.
View attachment 253175View attachment 253176View attachment 253177View attachment 253178View attachment 253179View attachment 253180

Gimme! That SB Live! is also a nice touch, loved that soundcard (tho Audigy2 ZS is the best ever)

 

[Bones]

Could something have taken out the 990 board and the CPU?
There is no damage to the 990 board that I can s

You'd probrably have to remove the VRM heatsink on the board and check, there is a chance a bad MOSFET could have done the deed.

I also spotted something that doesn't look quite right from what I can tell, I've circled the area and the component to the left looks suspect.

 

[Valantar]

Could something have taken out the 990 board and the CPU?
There is no damage to the 990 board that I can see.

Have you got a multimeter? If so, I would go around the board (especially the VRMs) looking for short circuits with the meter in continuity mode. The PSU shutting off like that sounds like short circuit protection kicking in.

Failed VRMs aren't necessarily visible, and can often be bypassed by desoldering the dead mosfet/power stage and limping along with a reduced VRM (though stability might not be great, and OCing would obviously be out of the question). Not the simplest fix (desoldering SMD components on a heavy 12V power plane is a definite challenge, and might require a hot air station), but it might be salvageable. VRM failures often kill CPUs though, depending on whether it fails short to ground or whether it shorts 12V directly into VCORE.

 

[Deleted member 24505]

You'd probrably have to remove the VRM heatsink on the board and check, there is a chance a bad MOSFET could have done the deed.

I also spotted something that doesn't look quite right from what I can tell, I've circled the area and the component to the left looks suspect.

View attachment 253516

Looked at them, they are perfect, must be a glitch in the pic.


Got 2x256mb PC133 ram sticks to test the KT7A board off my bud, it powered up with no ram, so i can test it with ram in it now. Got a genuine win 98 disc too.

 

[Blaeza]

Looked at them, they are perfect, must be a glitch in the pic.


Got 2x256mb PC133 ram sticks to test the KT7A board off my bud, it powered up with no ram, so i can test it with ram in it now. Got a genuine win 98 disc too.

There's water on them, makes them look broken...

 

[Deleted member 24505]

Any more areas you want to see?

 

[Chrispy_]

There's a lot of dust and crap on that board - I wonder if it's worth doing an old Der8auer dishwasher rinse on it in case some crap from the skip is bridging stuff?

 

[Deleted member 24505]

There's a lot of dust and crap on that board - I wonder if it's worth doing an old Der8auer dishwasher rinse on it in case some crap from the skip is bridging stuff?

Tbh it is pretty clean, i can't see anything blown or obviously shorted.

 

[Shrek]

There's a lot of dust and crap on that board - I wonder if it's worth doing an old Der8auer dishwasher rinse on it in case some crap from the skip is bridging stuff?

Dishwasher is fine, but it won't remove flux; for that I use isopropyl alcohol but avoid acetone.

Most of my computers were picked up after being dumped.

 

[Valantar]

Tbh it is pretty clean, i can't see anything blown or obviously shorted.

As I said above, VRMs can fail without this being visible from the outside. You'd need a multimeter to test for this - probing for continuity across the source, drain and gate pins should be sufficient to see if there is a short in/around the VRMs.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Dishwashers are not a good idea. There are too many unknowns. Dishwashers splash so much water around, it is essentially the same as submerging the board and all its mounted components into a tub of "heated" water. It is important to remember, dishwashers use hot water only and then they heat the water even further!

And dishwashers use pumps to pressurize that hot water into "jets" forcing that water into every crack and crevice - over and over again.

Do you know for a fact, each and every "electrical" device mounted on the motherboard is sealed? Impervious to water? Do you know for a fact, all the edges of the layered motherboard (including the edges of the drilled mounting holes) are still properly sealed by the resins?

Do you know for a fact, all the components, metals, plastic materials, labeling, and the PCB itself is impervious to the highly caustic detergents - detergents that are known to interact with some metals, that can "etch" crystal?

Even if no detergent is used, there is still the pressurized "hot" water issue.

Then of course, what if you forget to set the dishwasher to air dry - and then the heating element for the dryer comes on? And even if you do remember that, what if you don't ensure, with 200% certainty, that there is absolutely no trace of water left - anywhere - before applying power again?

Are there anecdotal examples of people washing motherboards in dishwashers with good results? Yes. But that does not mean that is the best or proper way to clean electronics. If a simple wipe with a "damp" (not wet) cloth is not enough, I recommend the use electrical contact cleaner - which is specifically designed to be used on electronics. I recommend CRC QD Electronic Cleaner.

 

[Valantar]

Dishwashers are not a good idea. There are too many unknowns. Dishwashers splash so much water around, it is essentially the same as submerging the board and all its mounted components into a tub of "heated" water. It is important to remember, dishwashers use hot water only and then they heat the water even further!

And dishwashers use pumps to pressurize that hot water into "jets" forcing that water into every crack and crevice - over and over again.

Do you know for a fact, each and every "electrical" device mounted on the motherboard is sealed? Impervious to water? Do you know for a fact, all the edges of the layered motherboard (including the edges of the drilled mounting holes) are still properly sealed by the resins?

Do you know for a fact, all the components, metals, plastic materials, labeling, and the PCB itself is impervious to the highly caustic detergents - detergents that are known to interact with some metals, that can "etch" crystal?

Even if no detergent is used, there is still the pressurized "hot" water issue.

Then of course, what if you forget to set the dishwasher to air dry - and then the heating element for the dryer comes on? And even if you do remember that, what if you don't ensure, with 200% certainty, that there is absolutely no trace of water left - anywhere - before applying power again?

Are there anecdotal examples of people washing motherboards in dishwashers with good results? Yes. But that does not mean that is the best or proper way to clean electronics. If a simple wipe with a "damp" (not wet) cloth is not enough, I recommend the use electrical contact cleaner - which is specifically designed to be used on electronics. I recommend CRC QD Electronic Cleaner.

I don't know what it's like in the US, but dish washers use cold tap water here in Europe. Hot tap water is rather unpredictable in temperature, but generally hot tap water is above 65°C (the threshold for killing legionella, and the lower threshold for legal hot water installations in many places) and might be close to 90 (depending on your tank, pipes, etc.) - that's way too hot for use in a dish washer. My dishwasher has temperature settings from 45-70°C - there's literally no way that could be done with hot tap water unless it spent significant time cooling down after filling up. Which, to be clear, is not how dishwashers work - they're insulated to keep heat in, after all. Some plastics might not like even 70°C, but those aren't likely to be found on a motherboard - they need to handle indirect heat from nearby components being soldered on, after all. Still, your concerns about heat are unfounded.

You're sort of right about metals and detergents, but that mainly applies to aluminium heatsinks in the case of motherboards, and anodization protects quite well from this. Copper, brass, steel, nickel, gold and other commonly found surface materials in PC components are fine with harsh detergents, as is the glass and resin in the PCB - unless you're loading your dishwasher with acetone, I guess. But generally, you don't use (or need) detergent for this. It's the relatively gentle spraying with hot water over time that does the cleaning.

It's obvious that any paper labels will be destroyed though. Any that are worthy of preserving need to be removed first.

As for the rest: a long drying cycle is an absolute necessity for this - ideally aided by heat and some form of air pressure. Passive air drying is not necessarily sufficient, as moisture gets trapped beneath SMD components and BGA packages and doesn't evaporate easily from there. Still, nothing a hairdryer can't help with, and it is entirely safe to do this as long as you're not dumb enough to think "oh, this looks dry, so it must be fine to power up".

And, for the record, submerging a motherboard in hot water is equally fine - it's just more work and the scrubbing will necessarily be harsher than the water jets of a dishwasher.

 

[Shrek]

I should have added that if there is a dry cycle, it is to be avoided.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Interesting about dishwashers there - at least in Sweden. I do know when I lived in England, our dishwasher was indeed connected to the hot water only. But that was in the 80s.

Hot water connection is normal here in the US. Why? Because it takes a lot more energy to heat the water in a dishwasher than in the water heater - which typically are preset to 120 - 140°F (49 - 60°C). This is why most dishwasher manuals say to run the kitchen sink's hot water until hot water comes out the faucet. This helps ensure only hat water enters the dishwasher, minimizing the need for the electronic heating element to come on.

And, for the record, submerging a motherboard in hot water is equally fine

And again - no it is not - not unless you know for a fact, nothing on that specific board, and the PCB itself, can tolerate it.

 

[Shrek]

There is definitely a risk, especially if the board has a speaker.