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Old meets New [WIP]

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Hello all,

I just wanted to make this post so I won't spam the Your PC ATM thread all the time.

Anyway, I have a lot of spare parts and I just can't/won't get rid of it, therefor a new small project is in order.
It had to be water cooled as I no longer have the original cooler for the graphics card.

All, except the case, are spare parts.

Old parts
Mobo: MSI Z97i Gaming ACK
Cpu: i7-4790k
RAM: 2x 4GB G.Skill TridentX 2400MHz
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SC GAMING ACX 2.0
SSD: Kingston something -> will be replaced
PSU: Corsair SF600
---
Water cooling bits: EK, Bitspower, Alphacool, Koolance, and various others

New Part(s)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S

The build
20200504_062109.jpg

A lot of eye balling and searching the web for ideas.
20200504_062110.jpg

Finally use for the fan hub!

20200510_124105.jpg

So the tube from the cpu to the reservoir isn't horizontal. Yep, I know but I don't mind.

20200511_203433.jpg

Water & leak testing after I finished the air test. Frosty tubes? Ugh, too much work.

20200511_214438.jpg

After a couple of hours of testing.

20200512_143848.jpg

Added a drain. The ball valve will be straighten out and the fitting and tube will only be attached when it needs to drain.

20200512_143905.jpg

I did try to tie the tube to the chassis but OMG that was a PITA, so no.

20200512_143918.jpg

20200512_143929.jpg

I will also add a fill port, cause why not? I will, unfortunately, need to buy a stubby fitting.

20200512_144034.jpg
The res barely touches the gpu but thank tech jesus for gpu sag :laugh:

To do list
- Clean sh!t
- Flush stuff
- Buy a fitting
- Wait for cables
- Play games

Thanks for visiting!
 

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Currently in the process of cleaning and flushing. Took the cpu and gpu waterblock apart and found nothing noteworthy.
I also bought a fitting for the fillport, and some other things.

Things I need to address:
- the fan hub doesn't stick :mad: might will have to screw it in.
- still waiting for the cables..
100_2384.JPG

100_2387.JPG
:mad:

Solved the fan hub issue. I had to remove the sticky side on the foam, which was a wonderful easy thing /S
20200518_113421.jpg
 
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The cables have FINALLY arrived! I'm gonna wait a few days before reassembly cause of the heat.
IMG_0166.jpg
 
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Sorry for the long wait but health took a dive (not pandemic related). Anyways, more cables arrived. I'll soon be ready for full assembly.
June001.jpg

Cable test fit. Good on this side.
June003.jpg
Will have to do some work on this side.
 
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Well sh!t, 1 tube decided it was too long and now turns out too short. :mad:
Back to sifting through my rejected pile of tubes in the hope I have one that fits.
IMG_0189.jpg

I also noticed I need some additional fittings.
 

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Well sh!t, 1 tube decided it was too long and now turns out too short. :mad:
Back to sifting through my rejected pile of tubes in the hope I have one that fits.
View attachment 160784
I also noticed I need some additional fittings.
If you have an extension fitting you can use that on the pump, similar to the one on the base of the reservoir.
 

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Looking good as always. Any cable combs planned for that PCIe set?

On a side note, how much minimum Vcore does your 4790K need at 4.4GHz all core, specifically? Been playing with mine 5 years late to figure out what mine needs to be stable.
 
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I did, thank you anyway. Luckily my psu isn't in the affected range.

If you have an extension fitting you can use that on the pump, similar to the one on the base of the reservoir.
I could if I had another one (in that color), alas. Plus I have plenty of spare tubes. If possible I try to avoid extenders.
IMG_0192.JPG
Looking good as always. Any cable combs planned for that PCIe set?

On a side note, how much minimum Vcore does your 4790K need at 4.4GHz all core, specifically? Been playing with mine 5 years late to figure out what mine needs to be stable.
Thank you! I probably will use these for the gpu, the rest aren't necessary and too tight.

I honestly don't remember the OC I had, sorry.

---

So this is another update. And again still a work in progress.
I placed the FD pump bracket back so I could at least use the bottom filter again. Plus this will make things easier; I now only need to shorten the tube from res to pump.
Unfortunately I don't have a long enough tube for the front rad to gpu line cause that extension is an eye-sore to me. I just can't and won't allow it :D
Nor is the tube from the cpu back to the rad long enough.

On a positive note I finally got to use the Bitspower Five Rotary Snake-Style adapter!
IMG_0197.jpg
I apologize for the dark pic, still learning how to use the dslr.

So (sigh) I will need to buy some more things; extra tubes, a Bitspower 3-way rotary fitting, a sealing plug, and maybe another fan (just maybe).
 
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Update!

Took most things out to redo the tube from res to pump. This bit is finally done!
IMG_0198.jpg
Next up: must redo the line from pump to front rad. There's a 2mm difference in height so I must shape the bend a bit.
Looking forward to that :shadedshu:

Okay, I tried the easy way but it looked horrible.
IMG_0203.jpg
So I tried to bend a tube ever so slightly to get it sort of right.
And...
IMG_0211.jpg
Tada!

Still not perfect but good enough.

I'll do the air leak test either Sunday or Monday cause I'm waiting on a couple of products.
 
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Update!

Tomorrow I'll, hopefully, receive the new air test kit. And, if it pleases the gods, all goes well it will be finished!
IMG_0217.jpg
IMG_0213.jpg
 
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Update!

Yesterday I was baffled why the psu didn't start. It turned out the cheap power strip reached its eol, lol.

Anyway, I did some air tests and it failed every time. Baffled I looked for a leak but none was heard. Adding a bit of water in the loop and then air testing did show 1 fitting bubbling. So now I'm testing with pure water and after a couple of hours running, an hour turn-off, and running again (with no leaks or water drop) I'll fill it with the real deal.
IMG_0224.jpg

IMG_0225.jpg

IMG_0226.jpg
 
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A turn of events. I've decided that the old(er) 4790k & GTX 980 will go on the bench rather than in the cramped FD.
And so it will get soft tubing with most likely QDC's for ease of use.
20200807_122811.jpg


The Fractal Design Nano will get the Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mobo that was previously in another build (AMD Chopin). I updated the bios to the latest stable version (F50) but I don't have a cpu yet (help?). This system will be air cooled as it was a pita to work in.
20200807_122854.jpg


I'll update on both cases.

Things I'm not sure at:
- just one 240 rad on the bench for the 980 & i7? Or only wc the 980 and air cool the i7?
- What cpu for the B450?
- Buy a second hand gpu or brand new..
- Find a nice solution to hide the water cooling holes in the Fractal Design.

Cheers
 
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just a suggestion, use thumbnails instead of full images as it's taking an age to download all your images as you have numerous posts in the thread dating back to May with lots of full res pics in each, I'm also downloading a torrent but have QOS enabled in my router so it shouldnt take 5 minutes just to download every picture you have posted. Try imgur or www.techpowerup.org, otherwise great build log, suggest 3600/X for the CPU for your B450 :toast:
 

tabascosauz

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Things I'm not sure at:
- just one 240 rad on the bench for the 980 & i7? Or only wc the 980 and air cool the i7?
- What cpu for the B450?
- Buy a second hand gpu or brand new..
- Find a nice solution to hide the water cooling holes in the Fractal Design.

I think the B450I Aorus has an artificial current limiter that will prevent you from using 3900X or 3950X at full performance before the thermals actually become a problem. It will handle a 3700X somewhat okay at near-stock 3800X power draw and clocks, but I'm not confident in its ability to handle a 3800X. 6-core SKUs will be perfectly okay.

Use that rear fan to keep air flowing over the VRM heatsink; it's not got a lot of heatsink area as it's just a big L slab and the 4-phase Vcore will heat up under load. The IR3556s and IR35201 are very nice Infineon parts however, and will provide you with current monitoring visible in HWInfo, as well as (more importantly) MOSFET temperature in HWInfo.

If you are using a large air cooler (DRP4, D15, D15S, C14S, etc.) make sure you plug in what you need at the top of the board first. The socket is offset significantly to the north.

Last thing, the board underreports power draw significantly and comes in at roughly 76% at full load under HWInfo's Power Deviation metric. 100% reporting is standard and accurate power draw and current information with most boards including my current TUF coming in at 90-95%, so the ~25% deviation isn't good. This is true of the F50 BIOS that I was on, not sure if Gigabyte ever pulled it and reuploaded a different revision of F50. Doesn't really pose much of a thermal problem, however, as long as you're using a 3700X or lower.

The underreporting does mean that the boost pushes chips very hard, stock boost being equivalent to high PBO settings on other boards. Good if you want performance and have good cooling (or if you static overclock, in which case it'll be irrelevant), bad if you want lower temperatures and lower Vcore.
 
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just a suggestion, use thumbnails instead of full images as it's taking an age to download all your images as you have numerous posts in the thread dating back to May with lots of full res pics in each, I'm also downloading a torrent but have QOS enabled in my router so it shouldnt take 5 minutes just to download every picture you have posted. Try imgur or www.techpowerup.org, otherwise great build log, suggest 3600/X for the CPU for your B450 :toast:
Thank you for the reply. In the future I'll use both imgur for the big pix and thumbnails for the phone pix. The 3600 is indeed on my short list.

I think the B450I Aorus has an artificial current limiter that will prevent you from using 3900X or 3950X at full performance before the thermals actually become a problem. It will handle a 3700X somewhat okay at near-stock 3800X power draw and clocks, but I'm not confident in its ability to handle a 3800X. 6-core SKUs will be perfectly okay.

Use that rear fan to keep air flowing over the VRM heatsink; it's not got a lot of heatsink area as it's just a big L slab and the 4-phase Vcore will heat up under load. The IR3556s and IR35201 are very nice Infineon parts however, and will provide you with current monitoring visible in HWInfo, as well as (more importantly) MOSFET temperature in HWInfo.

If you are using a large air cooler (DRP4, D15, D15S, C14S, etc.) make sure you plug in what you need at the top of the board first. The socket is offset significantly to the north.

Last thing, the board underreports power draw significantly and comes in at roughly 76% at full load under HWInfo's Power Deviation metric. 100% reporting is standard and accurate power draw and current information with most boards including my current TUF coming in at 90-95%, so the ~25% deviation isn't good. This is true of the F50 BIOS that I was on, not sure if Gigabyte ever pulled it and reuploaded a different revision of F50. Doesn't really pose much of a thermal problem, however, as long as you're using a 3700X or lower.

The underreporting does mean that the boost pushes chips very hard, stock boost being equivalent to high PBO settings on other boards. Good if you want performance and have good cooling (or if you static overclock, in which case it'll be irrelevant), bad if you want lower temperatures and lower Vcore.

Thank you for your reply. The X versions of cpu's are a bit on the pricey side for me, and by your reply not really handy on this board, so I most likely will go for the 3600. It will be air cooled by the Noctua NH-U12S, maybe in push-pull.
So I guess setting everything manual in the bios is the way to go with this board?
 

tabascosauz

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So I guess setting everything manual in the bios is the way to go with this board?

No, not exactly. The U12S is plenty capable for a 6-core or 8-core and fairly quiet, don't think you'll have problems. The Aorus' aggressive firmware really just causes a lot of noise headaches for running smaller, whinier and faster spinning 92mm coolers like the D9L, U9S, C7 or L9x65. No reason to shy away from a 3600X or 3700X if they happen to be on sale, and you want them.

The old recommendation is to put voltages on Normal instead of Auto in Gigabyte BIOS (just type in "Normal" or "N" and Enter), but as of F50 I haven't noticed any substantive difference to temps and noise. Look at it this way: Gigabyte's aggressive approach also means that you automatically get all the CPU performance you're paying for, and you don't have to dig into Precision Boost Overdrive for it. :)

In my experience, all-core static overclock is just better noise/temps wise because you're no longer listening to the fans/temps ramping up and down all the time with load, and the absolute minimum voltage necessary for an overclock will always be lower than what the chip usually calls for at that speed. But being able to do that highly depends on the quality of your chip. If your chip can do say 4.3GHz or 4.4GHz completely stable all-core at 1.275V or lower, then it would be a no-brainer.

But if your chip ends up being like mine and barely does 4.2GHz at over 1.3V, it makes a lot more sense to leave the decisions to the CPU and get that higher single core boost. If you do decide to let it boost, go into BIOS fan control and set the CPU fans to an Interval of 3, might smooth over the fan speed spikes a bit. You can also bind your case fan speeds to VRM temp, chipset temp, or system sensor temp.

Yields have improved significantly since July 2019, however, and you now have a decent chance of getting a 3600/3600X/3800X that'll do that kind of excellent overclock. Stay below 1.3V at good temperatures on the overclock, and you shouldn't have to worry about CPU lifespan ever. Use the SVI2 TFN sensors in HWInfo for Vcore and VSOC, they are most accurate for overclocking purposes.
 
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Thank you very much, @tabascosauz.

I've decided to start a new thread cause it is taking forever to load all.

Again thank you all for watching.

Edit: The mods have told me that I shouldn't start a new thread and the next time use the spoiler insert.
So I'll continue, thank for sticking ;)
 
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Thank you very much, @tabascosauz.

I've decided to start a new thread cause it is taking forever to load all.

Again thank you all for watching.
Using thumbnails instead would help that issue.
 
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Software W11Pro
Joined
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System Name Merc v8
Processor Ryzen 7800X3D
Motherboard Gigabyte X670 Gaming X AX
Cooling Noctua NH-D15
Memory 2x16GB G.Skill Flare X F5-6000
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 3070 VENTUS 3X PLUS
Storage Solidigm P44 1TB, &2TB, Crucial MX500 2TB
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Case Caselabs Mercury S8
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Software W11Pro
The backup gaming rig is done for now. The gpu is not so great for 1440p gaming though and will be replaced in the near future.
Specs
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C
Mobo: MSI B450M Mortar
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
RAM: Corsair LPX-V 3200Mhz 2x 8GB
GPU: MSI GTX 1060 6GB (to be replaced)
SSD: Samsung 970 500GB & 850 500GB
Add. fans: Noiseblocker NB-Loop (4x)
PSU: Corsair RM550x

Tiny album on imgur
 
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Software W11Pro
I just wanted to share a bit of news.

Currently work is slow and money is very tight. Therefor it will take a bit longer before there will be an update on this build.
At this moment the GTX 980 and i7-4790k sit on the Streacom BC1 (test) bench.

I'll probably remove the rads, and opt for just one Alphacool UT60 240.

Cheers, and have a great day.
 

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Hi @SN2716057

Loving the thread :) I was wondering would you like this moved into the Projects Thread?? I feel it's a bit more of a project :D
 
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Noticed with the tubing as it is, the cpu block will not drain properly.
 
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Hi @SN2716057

Loving the thread :) I was wondering would you like this moved into the Projects Thread?? I feel it's a bit more of a project :D
Thank you and yeah, go for it. It's taking longer than expected. <sigh>

Noticed with the tubing as it is, the cpu block will not drain properly.
I'm not to worried about that. If and when it's time to drain I'll take the cpu block/pump off.

New proposed setup, this way will make the tubing shorter. The rad also has a drain port which will make life easier. I'll still buy qdc's for the gpu.
 
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