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Pc was off but wont turn on after switching off power outlet

Toothless

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If I have to turn off the breaker or anything relating to the wall I unplug or shut off my power strips to my hardware. I had something similar with one of my MSI boards that was straight to the wall after a breaker trip. Make sure you use good surge protectors since it's possible when the power came back it sent a tad too much.
 
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If I have to turn off the breaker or anything relating to the wall I unplug or shut off my power strips to my hardware. I had something similar with one of my MSI boards that was straight to the wall after a breaker trip. Make sure you use good surge protectors since it's possible when the power came back it sent a tad too much.
Sorry for my bad english . When i said about turning off the power outlet i mean the power strip. I turned off both power strips on both my pcs because i was waiting an electrician .
After turning the power strip on that happen with pc being off.
I got a power outage some time ago and the problem didn't occur .
Anyway mobo is like locked or damaged in some way can't test it .
So i got a new one . Next time gonna turn off the psu too before the power strip :(
 

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Sorry for my bad english . When i said about turning off the power outlet i mean the power strip. I turned off both power strips on both my pcs because i was waiting an electrician .
After turning the power strip on that happen with pc being off.
I got a power outage some time ago and the problem didn't occur .
Anyway mobo is like locked or damaged in some way can't test it .
So i got a new one . Next time gonna turn off the psu too before the power strip :(
Have you changed the cmos battery?
 
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bug

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Sorry for my bad english . When i said about turning off the power outlet i mean the power strip. I turned off both power strips on both my pcs because i was waiting an electrician .
After turning the power strip on that happen with pc being off.
I got a power outage some time ago and the problem didn't occur .
Anyway mobo is like locked or damaged in some way can't test it .
So i got a new one . Next time gonna turn off the psu too before the power strip :(
A PSU that's not junk should not care at which end you cut the power first :(
 
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A PSU that's not junk should not care at which end you cut the power first :(
I read a review on Jonnyguru before getting the Corsair Rm850 . Maybe i got bad luck with something because my Xeon pc is fine and i'm using it now.
 

bug

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I read a review on Jonnyguru before getting the Corsair Rm850 . Maybe i got bad luck with something because my Xeon pc is fine and i'm using it now.
Regardless of the actual cause, losing your mobo because you unplugged and replugged the PSU has to involve at least some dose of bad luck :(
 
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Two things come to mind. Test VRD mosfets with a multimeter. If they pass, BIOS may be corrupted. I recovered a P8Z77-V Deluxe (similar era & known failure mode) that had a corrupt EEPROM.
 
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Two things come to mind. Test VRD mosfets with a multimeter. If they pass, BIOS may be corrupted. I recovered a P8Z77-V Deluxe (similar era & known failure mode) that had a corrupt EEPROM.
If i get aroud to get a multimeter i will try. About the bios i did a bios flash too and reset of the cmos but they didn't work.
 
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Bios flashback might not update the boot block. An external programmer or hot flash using the Amibios Winflash util & selecting entire bios in the options might work. It's the cheap EEPROMs that fail.

Coincidentally, it's also the way to fix iGPU fields missing from the BIOS/UEFI. Classic issue of no POST/4 beeps without dGPU.

Edit: I forgot. To get to POST, press Mem OK/Test button with 1 stick RAM & let it cycle. You may need to do this a few times to get to POST. It may be enough to let you flash via UEFI &/or then fully via Win & Amibios. Much easier with external programmer.
 
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The mobo might have become grounded with the chassis. Strip everything out and put everything back in or just pull out all the expansion cards, loosen the mobo screws a little and just push it up a little to reposition it.

It might or might not work but theres is no harm in trying. Make sure your PC is unplugged from mains though.
 
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Thanks guys, i will try this suggestions while i wait for the other mobo XD .

Bios flashback might not update the boot block. An external programmer or hot flash using the Amibios Winflash util & selecting entire bios in the options might work. It's the cheap EEPROMs that fail.

Coincidentally, it's also the way to fix iGPU fields missing from the BIOS/UEFI. Classic issue of no POST/4 beeps without dGPU.

Edit: I forgot. To get to POST, press Mem OK/Test button with 1 stick RAM & let it cycle. You may need to do this a few times to get to POST. It may be enough to let you flash via UEFI &/or then fully via Win & Amibios. Much easier with external programmer.
I tried the mem test with 1 stick but nope , he doesn't even lit up the led near by the mem test button.
It tries to boot but the psu doesn't switch on and the cpu fan does a itch .

I retried the bios flash with the button on the back and the bios into a usb key and let me try to boot for 10 minutes but doesn't boot.
The mobo might have become grounded with the chassis. Strip everything out and put everything back in or just pull out all the expansion cards, loosen the mobo screws a little and just push it up a little to reposition it.

It might or might not work but theres is no harm in trying. Make sure your PC is unplugged from mains though.
I did that while doing the other suggestion and it was like the first thing i did while the mobo was in the case . Unplugged everything and so on but doesn't boot.
The thing is that the led on the mobo is green and if i connect stuff to the usb ports they lit up.
I'm open to suggestions .
I ordered already a motherboard but while i wait for that i will try any possible suggestion.
 

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Thanks guys, i will try this suggestions while i wait for the other mobo XD .


I tried the mem test with 1 stick but nope , he doesn't even lit up the led near by the mem test button.
It tries to boot but the psu doesn't switch on and the cpu fan does a itch .

I retried the bios flash with the button on the back and the bios into a usb key and let me try to boot for 10 minutes but doesn't boot.

I did that while doing the other suggestion and it was like the first thing i did while the mobo was in the case . Unplugged everything and so on but doesn't boot.
The thing is that the led on the mobo is green and if i connect stuff to the usb ports they lit up.
I'm open to suggestions .
I ordered already a motherboard but while i wait for that i will try any possible suggestion.
I really hope the psu is goid because a tester could say it is good when it is bad actually
 
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I really hope the psu is goid because a tester could say it is good when it is bad actually
It boot with a tester and a pin adaptor for water cooling .
If the voltages are wrong i can't tell without using something else other than the tester that have for each voltage rail green lights .
We will see .
The only thing that is absurd was the timing.
I turn off the pc the day before and turn it on that morning no problem .
I even got poweroutage some months ago and i did the same thing from 3 days ago .
Anyway the motherboard is being send .
Wish me luck .
 
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Guys i have an update and is very sad.
Today i got the new motherboard, did everything out of the case .
Used my xeon pc psu but nothing .
Not even this motherboard starts up.
Final comclusion is that my 4820k just died .
So i have to get a new cpu and than if my other motherboard works i'm gonna send back the new i got .
 
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The saddest thing that could have happen is real.
Today super happy i got the Xeon e5 1650 v2 .
Got the motherboard asus p9x79 that i was using on the i7 4820k that died :( .
The motherboard doesn't boot even with a new cpu so motherboard dies too with the cpu.
I got anyway a Msi x79a -gd 45 with another cpu ( Xeon e5 1620 ) as a backup and what i get even after updating the bios to the latest version that ram slot 3 and 4 if are populated i get error code 67.
If i connect all my hard drivers i get code A3 and i can boot only with my ssd .
I have no idea what is happening but i have so much bad luck that i don't know where to bang my head.
 

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The saddest thing that could have happen is real.
Today super happy i got the Xeon e5 1650 v2 .
Got the motherboard asus p9x79 that i was using on the i7 4820k that died :( .
The motherboard doesn't boot even with a new cpu so motherboard dies too with the cpu.
I got anyway a Msi x79a -gd 45 with another cpu ( Xeon e5 1620 ) as a backup and what i get even after updating the bios to the latest version that ram slot 3 and 4 if are populated i get error code 67.
If i connect all my hard drivers i get code A3 and i can boot only with my ssd .
I have no idea what is happening but i have so much bad luck that i don't know where to bang my head.
Isolate the psu, then cpu
 
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Isolate the psu, then cpu
The psu is fine and i done it outside the case .
If i have ram only in slot 1 and 2 and is connected only the ssd it boot.
The pins are fine and the psu works because with my other psu i get the same results .
I do everything with the psu off before touching the motherboard.
 

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Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
The psu is fine and i done it outside the case .
If i have ram only in slot 1 and 2 and is connected only the ssd it boot.
The pins are fine and the psu works because with my other psu i get the same results .
I do everything with the psu off before touching the motherboard.
Realize a psu can damage parts even if it claims to test good, at this rate id start fresh across the board
 
Joined
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System Name Xeon build / Main Rig
Processor Intel Xeon x5650 @ 4.2Ghz with HT / Xeon E5 1620 @4.3 Ghz
Motherboard Asus P6T Deluxe v2 socket 1366 / Asus P9X79 Pro socket 2011
Cooling Thermalright Archon +Ty 140mm|Fans : 2 front-1top-1rear-1bottom/ Swiftech H140x
Memory 16gb DDR3 1600mhz Kingstone Hyper x Quad Channel / 16gb DDR3 1600MHZ Patriot Viper 3
Video Card(s) Sapphire hd 7950 3gb Boost edition dual fan X / EVGA 1080 Ti iCX FTW3
Storage Kingstone AV400ssd 120gb + Seagate B 2Tb + WD green 1tb + WD green 3tb + WD red 3tb + Seagate B 4tb
Display(s) AOC E2460S 24" 1080p 60hz 1ms / LG 32UK550B 32" UHD 4K HDR 10 with Freesync (Wasabi Mango died )
Case Enermax Phoenix / Fractal Design Arc midi
Audio Device(s) SoundMaxHD+5.1 BHT1100 BLUESKY,Fiio E10 Olympus+SuperluxHD668b,Superlux E205 on an Mic Arm.
Power Supply Sharkoon WPM Gold Zero 650W semi modular / Thermaltake Toughpower xt 775W semi modular
Mouse Generic Mice / Corsair M90
Keyboard Generic Keyboard / Microsoft WK600
Software Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
Realize a psu can damage parts even if it claims to test good, at this rate id start fresh across the board
If i'm getting the same results with my other psu, your suggesting to buy a new one?
 
Joined
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MN
System Name Personal / HTPC
Processor i5-4670k @ 4.4 / i5-4460
Motherboard ASUS z97-AR /ASRock Z87 Extreme4
Cooling Corsair H100i / stock HSF
Memory 16GB DDR3 1600 / 8GB DDR3 1600
Video Card(s) Zotac GTX 980Ti AMP! Omega / Zotac GTX 980Ti AMP! Omega
Storage 250 GB Crucial SSD MX200, 1TB & 500GB Western Digital / 2x 4TB WD Red
Display(s) 3x 24" Asus Ve248H LED (5760x1080) / 50" LCD TV
Case CoolerMaster XB Evo / CM HAF XB Evo
Power Supply 850W SeaSonic X Series / 750W SeaSonic X Series
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Microsoft Natural Elite Keyboard
Software Windows 7 Home 64 / Windows 10 Home 64
If i'm getting the same results with my other psu, your suggesting to buy a new one?
If you used the original PSU first, it may have already damaged something and it won't matter what PSU you use with it. Starting over would be getting a known working PSU (doesn't have to be new) and using that with a new MB.

Last place I worked, the registers that customers used were very fragile when it came to power issues. If the power outlet was providing power to other things plugged in, but registers kept breaking (touch screen failures, port failures, NIC failures, flash card failures) then the problem was with the power. Customers would argue with me that the power wasn't the issue because lamps, printers and so on when plugged into the same outlet work just fine and they'd tell me I was stupid and blah, blah, blah. They'd request a new register shipped in and depending on their maintenance plan, it was usually covered on our end. We'd ship a register out, get it setup for them and generally within a day or two they'd call back with similar issues on the new register that the old one was doing. I'd have to end up flagging the store for no new replacement registers until they at the very minimum got a line conditioner....in a few rare instances an electrician was required to go in and service the problem outlet.

A faulty power source, even if it works when tested, can certainly be causing problems and damaging sensitive computer hardware.
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2012
Messages
1,169 (0.39/day)
Location
Arcadia
System Name Xeon build / Main Rig
Processor Intel Xeon x5650 @ 4.2Ghz with HT / Xeon E5 1620 @4.3 Ghz
Motherboard Asus P6T Deluxe v2 socket 1366 / Asus P9X79 Pro socket 2011
Cooling Thermalright Archon +Ty 140mm|Fans : 2 front-1top-1rear-1bottom/ Swiftech H140x
Memory 16gb DDR3 1600mhz Kingstone Hyper x Quad Channel / 16gb DDR3 1600MHZ Patriot Viper 3
Video Card(s) Sapphire hd 7950 3gb Boost edition dual fan X / EVGA 1080 Ti iCX FTW3
Storage Kingstone AV400ssd 120gb + Seagate B 2Tb + WD green 1tb + WD green 3tb + WD red 3tb + Seagate B 4tb
Display(s) AOC E2460S 24" 1080p 60hz 1ms / LG 32UK550B 32" UHD 4K HDR 10 with Freesync (Wasabi Mango died )
Case Enermax Phoenix / Fractal Design Arc midi
Audio Device(s) SoundMaxHD+5.1 BHT1100 BLUESKY,Fiio E10 Olympus+SuperluxHD668b,Superlux E205 on an Mic Arm.
Power Supply Sharkoon WPM Gold Zero 650W semi modular / Thermaltake Toughpower xt 775W semi modular
Mouse Generic Mice / Corsair M90
Keyboard Generic Keyboard / Microsoft WK600
Software Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
If you used the original PSU first, it may have already damaged something and it won't matter what PSU you use with it. Starting over would be getting a known working PSU (doesn't have to be new) and using that with a new MB.

Last place I worked, the registers that customers used were very fragile when it came to power issues. If the power outlet was providing power to other things plugged in, but registers kept breaking (touch screen failures, port failures, NIC failures, flash card failures) then the problem was with the power. Customers would argue with me that the power wasn't the issue because lamps, printers and so on when plugged into the same outlet work just fine and they'd tell me I was stupid and blah, blah, blah. They'd request a new register shipped in and depending on their maintenance plan, it was usually covered on our end. We'd ship a register out, get it setup for them and generally within a day or two they'd call back with similar issues on the new register that the old one was doing. I'd have to end up flagging the store for no new replacement registers until they at the very minimum got a line conditioner....in a few rare instances an electrician was required to go in and service the problem outlet.

A faulty power source, even if it works when tested, can certainly be causing problems and damaging sensitive computer hardware.
I see , welp tomorrow i'm sending back the motherboard and if they see it does have problem not related to my fault i will get a refund.
If i can manage to get a new one soon i will try to use my other psu first .
The corsair have 10 years warranty and i got it at the beginning on the year .
If i see no problem with the next motherboard i'm gonna send it to rma than.
Thanks again guys .
Edit:
Little update , i got another motherboard and today i'm going to get a multimeter so i'm gonna check the corsair psu if all the voltages and stuff are all right as the tester says .
Gonna update as soon as i do the testing.
 
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