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? PCI-E 2.0x16 ?

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#26
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#27
try some older driver!!! i had similar isue..,and new dirvers didnt even work....i instaled one witch came witm graphic card and it works fine !!
Didn't try. But doesn't matter now, unless I build a 2nd comp. for maybe a backup? :laugh:
Which BIOS are you running on it? Just looking thru the BIOS's the 2nd most recent one had this:
Now of course updating to the latest would/should still have that fix.

LINK
Did have last bios version.

all pcie 3.0 cards will run at 1.1 x16 in a 2.0 x16 slot ?

Edit: some scaling benches

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/6.html
No!


Thanks for the replies :)
But I need to close this thread as I just said F-it and went out and bought another MB. Big plus to that was more of the newer technology such as USB 3.0, now it still doesn't support PCIe 3.0 but handles 2.0 better (which I say better cause it can have up to 3 GPU cards). All and all I needed to do this just wanted to wait longer.

Thanks again all :)
 
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#28
Well it's a "solution" either way I guess. What MoBo did you end up picking up?
 
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#29
Well it's a "solution" either way I guess. What MoBo did you end up picking up?
ASRock 970 Extreme 4
It could still take my cpu, just had to get new RAM. Because it's DDR3, but that was cheap and I can always buy better RAM and cpu when I can afford better and more. But, my next upgrade will be a new HDD (I have 2 atm but the 1.5TB isn't functioning and 160GB isn't much for anything but OS). I figure I will get a SSD after that for OS and main gaming programs.
 
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#30
Well there ya go you "upgraded" nothing wrong with that. You now have alot more options available to you with that board not too mention the better performance.
 
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#31
Yes and only paid 100 bucks :D
 
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#32
Well I say what was in the "big picture" not a huge problem(tho it woulda have bugged me too) You ended up with a genuine upgrade and for a great price as well.:toast:

I would fork out for 4 more gig of RAM tho;) Or at least keep your eyes peeled for a cheap 8GB Kit:)
 

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#33
you picked up a really good board actually, have one here in my bros rig. just remember though read the manual on Graphic Card Configuration in the slots because those slots do a bandwidth share. Im guessing you have updated the bios to latest version because when i put the board in last year there was only 1 to update to, I havent touched it since and it runs just fine.
 
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#34
Thank You

Yes I will be looking to upgrade the RAM

I did update bios, too.\

:)
 

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#35
if you ever decide to upgrade- the board should be Piledriver ready after a bios update, but it is bulldozer ready. You can max the ram at 32GB in that board too.
 
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#36
Yea I will be doing that in the near future.

Any suggestions on which cpu to get? I was thinking the 6100 FX.

And which is the better of the two? Crucial or OCZ for ram? I was looking at the Vengence 8G w/CL10.

Thanks again :)
 

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#37
Yea I will be doing that in the near future.

Any suggestions on which cpu to get? I was thinking the 6100 FX.

And which is the better of the two? Crucial or OCZ for ram? I was looking at the Vengence 8G w/CL10.

Thanks again :)
Attempt to Unlock that 720 First before you upgrade the CPU. You should be able to run it at 3.2GHz even, Just look at the Specs of a 955 BE for voltage level to run at.

If You manage to unlock that 720s 4th core and full level of L3 cache and operate it at 3.2Ghz You will have a 955 BE technically (Will Show as a Business Series CPU though)

http://www.techenclave.com/cpu-mobo-corner/amd-phenom-ii-x3-720-a-70898/

At best the FX series are a side grade as even 960T, 970, 975, 980, 1090T, 1100T, whoop the FX at lower clock speeds.

For Ram Id recommend GSkill Ripjaws Blue Heat Spreader, Current Sweet Spot is 8GB (2X4 GB) 1600MHz Ram. You can get that ram with a CL of 7 and a Voltage of 1.5.
 
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#38
I have the 4th core unlocked, But am affraid to OC it without water cooling.

Thanks
 

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#39
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#40
Yes
 
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#41
Also want to make sure it is stable 1st. I read that article you posted and alot are having trouble with it being stable unlocked.
 
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#42
LOL!
I know this is the wrong place for this thread, BUT...... so far been getting good response to everything I ask or mention here :D

Thanks again everyone for their suggestions

I am now oc'ing my cpu and running whatever I can to test it. But, everything is going smooth so far. I got it to 3010Mhz @ 1.3625volts with no problems (even running better). The CPU temp. so far hasn't hit 40c. But I am not really pushing it to hard at first to make sure it won't crash on me.
I haven't messed with any other voltages yet. I did kick the cpu freq. up just a bit.
This I am achieving with the utility that came with the MB, AXTU.
 

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#43
I normally use bios/uefi for ocing but id try eventually at 3.1 Ghz then 3.2 ensureits apps n gaming stable and i mean run every app you use.

Iirc the cooler should be the same as thE 555 BE AND 955 BE
 
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#44
I normally use bios/uefi for ocing but id try eventually at 3.1 Ghz then 3.2 ensureits apps n gaming stable and i mean run every app you use.

Iirc the cooler should be the same as thE 555 BE AND 955 BE
Well I wanted to make sure it would be ok before I shut it down and not be able to get back on with oc'ing.
Was just on WoW and it runs great now. Still at 3010Mhz.
Still only running @ 37-38 core temp.
:cool:
 

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#45
just throwing it out their for the google spiders.


check windows power settings specifically

"link state power managment"

also check the PCI-E connector on the CARD for missing capacitors near the gold teeth. If their are some missing pencil over the pads.
 

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#46
Hey dude your talkin about his vid card right. Btw wouldnt it be better to use a conductor pen?

Ya that setting right there really isnt needed for desktop more so for laptops. I swear throttling slows a machine down.

just throwing it out their for the google spiders.


check windows power settings specifically

"link state power managment"

also check the PCI-E connector on the CARD for missing capacitors near the gold teeth. If their are some missing pencil over the pads.
 

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#47
Hey dude your talkin about his vid card right. Btw wouldnt it be better to use a conductor pen?

Ya that setting right there really isnt needed for desktop more so for laptops. I swear throttling slows a machine down.
actually in most cases on vista and 7 power saving is enabled. and ya you could iv done both it doesnt really matter pencil is easier. the resistance is small you just need to bridge the gap.
 

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#48
actually in most cases on vista and 7 power saving is enabled. and ya you could iv done both it doesnt really matter pencil is easier. the resistance is small you just need to bridge the gap.
i know bout the settings i disable them on any desktop i encountered. and set monitor to turn off after 10 min. so bridging a certain area does what exactly for the card? i recall it was done on k7 cpus to unlock multiplier
 

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#49
i know bout the settings i disable them on any desktop i encountered. and set monitor to turn off after 10 min. so bridging a certain area does what exactly for the card? i recall it was done on k7 cpus to unlock multiplier
the capacitors near the pci-e teeth




can come off cutting connectivity to that tooth. in some cases this will be a data tooth and when it is damaged the card will loose that connectivity level. for example each tooth is a tooth in a "set" of teeth and each "set" controls a diffirent "lane" each "lane" is a diffirent "speed" level such as x1 x4 x8 x16 so damaging a data tooth will make the card drop down to the next working level. all "sets" are required for full speed. and each set is represented from left to right. for example it you damage a tooth 4 in from the right the card will down scale to x8 (this is an example) however if you damage one say 6 in from the left it will drop to x1 skipping from full operation to slow because the set that was damaged was BEFORE the higher level sets. make sense?

so fixing this connectivity resistors function to the entire set bringing you up a link speed.
 
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Storage 256GB Samsung 840 PRO SSD for OS (1TB hdd internal + 2TB external)
Display(s) ASUS 27" LED
Case Corsair Vengence C70
Power Supply Tt Toughpower Grand 1050w
Software Windows7 Pro 64bit
#50
just throwing it out their for the google spiders.


check windows power settings specifically

"link state power managment"

also check the PCI-E connector on the CARD for missing capacitors near the gold teeth. If their are some missing pencil over the pads.
Well since I bought another MoBo it doesn't really matter since it is fine now.

Why I said this is the wrong thread for the extended talk on RAM and such ;)

"For Ram Id recommend GSkill Ripjaws Blue Heat Spreader, Current Sweet Spot is 8GB (2X4 GB) 1600MHz Ram. You can get that ram with a CL of 7 and a Voltage of 1.5."
I did replace the RAM because the other seem to be giving me problems. I couldn't remember the brand/type you suggested so I got Ballistix by Crucial (still cheap for me). But, did get 8G instead of 4. What I love about Micro Center, they are so helpful and good for returns if needed. BUT...... I have a problem that I thought was the RAM. Sometimes it won't boot, sometimes it does but windows don't start and the biggest issue I have is it doesn't shutdown normally. It will hang on the powering down phase and when the display is put to sleep (turned off to rest) it doesn't want to come back on (the comp seems to be running), but I have to physically shut it down and restart to get it back up. I am sure that it is a setting (either Bios or Windows) but I can't figure it out. My old MB and system was fine with this and I never had to worry about or even think about it.:banghead: Oh and this has been a problem from the beginning of installing the ASRock MB

Sorry for the long post :eek:

Any advice here would be helpful :)

Thanks again
 
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