Phanteks 719 build version 2.0

[thesmokingman]

My main rig is already running in a Phanteks 719. However I never took any pics of the build. As luck would have it I'm building a second 719. I'm going to make some changes with this 719 like the use of Barrow's Boxfish res and HWL's regular Nemesis GTS rads instead of the Nemesis L series low profile rads since they are out of stock. I could only get my hands on the Nemesis GTS "Primer" and I dislike HWL's crinkle finish so the GTS rads in primer finish was a perfect fit. A couple coats of flat black Krylon paint and we're in business. This new 719 will end up being my main build and my old case and loop will go to my kid. I figure it's easier to build the new rig then transfer what lil bits I need, then slap my kids cpu and gpu blocks over at the end. Rig as it currently as below.

 

[thesmokingman]

First up on the work list is the Barrow Boxfish. This thing is rather interesting but like most things coming from the East it's really noot well thought out. The Boxfish has channels on the side of the res about 9.4 inches long. That's where the smd strip resides but it only comes with one strip and a 6.3mm wide strip at that. The channel is actually nearly 13mm deep counting both halves of the res. Thus this 6.3mm strip will be hidden behind the acetal base I chose to go with. With the acrylic base you won't have this issue. I ordered some premade argb strips 10mm wide so the LEDs will at least hit some acrylic.

You can see here how I mounted the Boxfish. I used an ek vertical pump mount turned clockwise, then bent back slightly from its 90deg stock position. When the strips get here I'll remove the acrylic exposing the led channels. A 35x pump will be mounted underneath. I also chose to go with a monoblock cuz why the hell not. I should have enough pump all things considered with the 35x. The HWL rads are very very restrictive and the monoblock adds a bit of restriction as well so I'd be wary if you were running a D5 pump. More to come...



Btw the Boxfish is wired with a fan header meant to connect to Barrow's own controller. I don't that setup thus I'm doing it with a pair of custom strips for argb.

 

[thesmokingman]

I got the leds in today. I got the Alitove strip kit on Amazon, fairly cheap at 22 bux. In the earlier post I had picked a different set but learned that they were daisy chain only. Thus I chose Alitove kit for its wide strip at 13mm and it comes with a splitter instead of the usual daisy chain and four strips which I'll only need two of. As I wrote above the stock Barrow led won't work w/o their adapter so if you get one don't test it or it'll go poof. You can cut the connector and hard wire it in a pinch. However I said what the hell and went with a dual led strip setup instead. I think it looks pretty good even though I left the plexi rather streaky huh?


2nd strip

Reassembled.

 

[thesmokingman]

Here's how I connect the res to the loop, using an old school high flow SLI connector. I have a ton of these left over from when gasp SLI/CFX still worked and quad setups were a thing, lol. I still use these a lot for connecting ends together where a compression fit keeps things together.

 

[thesmokingman]

Here's the board with monoblock. I have to dig out a spare temp sensor that I'll then squeeze under the vrm pads for direct temps. The Strix-E has two temp sensor inputs, the first is for water temp from the res and the second for vrm. I'll be honest here I don't need a vrm block, I just wanted one lol.

 

[thesmokingman]

I had a bit of time today so I just cranked it out. It's basically done with just a few minor details to left to button up like as you can see in the pic gotta finish wiring the rad fans and other tidbits etc. Now that I look at it, it's a bit overkill on the rgb huh lol? After a few hours I'll remove the inline filter and flush a couple times before the final with with additives.