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Powerline Networking - secure?

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#1
Wireless networking is weak in my new bigger home. I wanted to wire the whole house with network cables but its going to be pain hiding those cables (the home is not so new so no built-in network outlets) or need to fish the cables thru the dry wall which I haven't done but I am guessing its a pain too.

So my option is to use Powerline Networking.

TRENDnet TPL-303E2K Powerline AV Adapter Kit Up to 200Mbps

TRENDnet TPL-303E2K Powerline AV Adapter Kit Up to...

seems to be a cheap effective solution.

Question is security and voltage spikes (if any). How secure is it? Since it is connected to the powerline is the data going accross only in my home line or my neighbour is also going to see and try to crack the password? (home is a condomonium, so not sure how the wiring is).

Wanted to try out powerline networking option but as always need the advice from my friends here.

My current Wireless router is old but trusty Linksys WRT54GL, no open-source or no custom firmware.

Should I just replace the router with a better newer router? This ASUS RT-N12 has good reviews, is it worth a try?

ASUS RT-N12 Wireless Broadband Router SuperSpeedN ...

:toast:
 

newtekie1

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#2
The connection between the power line units is encrypted with 128-bit AES encryption. So it is pretty much as secure as WPA2 on WiFi. So no need to worry about your neighbors getting on your network.
 
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#3
The connection between the power line units is encrypted with 128-bit AES encryption. So it is pretty much as secure as WPA2 on WiFi. So no need to worry about your neighbors getting on your network.
thats good. how many such devices i can connect before i start to see slowness?
 

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#4
The max I would recommend is 4 to 5, the ones you linked to limit you to 8 some limit you to 15, but with only a 200Mb/s bandwidth pool to share between them I'd stick to 5 or less. But it depends on what you are using them for. If you are just using them to connect to the net and browse and email and stuff, then I could see 8 working just fine. If you are doing heaving media streaming to the different devices on the network, or file sharing, or heavy downloading then 4-5 would be the maximum I would say.
 
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#5
The max I would recommend is 4 to 5, the ones you linked to limit you to 8 some limit you to 15, but with only a 200Mb/s bandwidth pool to share between them I'd stick to 5 or less. But it depends on what you are using them for. If you are just using them to connect to the net and browse and email and stuff, then I could see 8 working just fine. If you are doing heaving media streaming to the different devices on the network, or file sharing, or heavy downloading then 4-5 would be the maximum I would say.
main use - online class with good HD quality webcam, media streaming, netflix HD streaming, Backps and ofcourse general browsing.

I have ordered 2 sets. Should I connect one to the router and 1 in each room where I want internet?
 

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#6
you should read the directions. setting up PLC is quite easy depending on the kit. also note, performance varies immensely from house to house. the age of the wiring, electrical noise and distance between the units are major factors. you will want to spend some time playing around with them in different sockets to see which perform the best. if you got ones with IEEE 1901 then the odds are more favorable as they introduce some pretty sophisticated OFDM technology.
 

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#7
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#8

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#9
Should I connect one to the router and 1 in each room where I want internet?
Yes, you connect one to your router and the others where you want internet connectivity.

Had my Netgear kits for 2 years now and they work great. Have 2 heavy streamers (Xbox360 and HTPC) and the rest are casual browsing. House was built in 2005 so the wiring is still pretty good.
 

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#10
Can u explain how a range extender work?
Easiest way to explain what that does, it takes your existing WITHIN RANGE signal extends the wireless signal and provides network access to the 4 ports. Mind you it works best on an existing wireless N network.
 
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#11
what about power surge?
 

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#12
what about power surge?
What you mean? a spike in power? Just like any electronics a spike in power could be deadly for them.
 

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#13
what about power surge?
almost every model will say to avoid using it on a power strip as it may cause noise or garble the signal.
 
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#14
What you mean? a spike in power? Just like any electronics a spike in power could be deadly for them.
almost every model will say to avoid using it on a power strip as it may cause noise or garble the signal.
all my devices are connected either to a UPS or a power surge protector. If this little thing fries I am not that worried but will it send the power spike to the PC thru the network cable?
 
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#15
I'm probably going to repeat other people's advice but:

You'll be surprised by how greatly 802.11n improved over 802.11g.
You can get 2 or 3 APs to cover even huge house with reinforced-concrete walls, and get decent speed/latency.

Cheers,
 

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#16
all my devices are connected either to a UPS or a power surge protector. If this little thing fries I am not that worried but will it send the power spike to the PC thru the network cable?
anything is possible. you can always test it out on a powerstrip first to see if there is any interference you can or cannot deal with.
 
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#17
I ordered it to pickup from local MC, will try it out tonight and post my findings.
 
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#18
Not a mansion, but only a 3 bedroom 1425 sq ft condo.
Your existing router should be more than sufficient. Solve the problem. For example, from the computer, look at the router like Superman with X-ray vision. You will see right through wood and sheetrock. Items such as metal air ducts will block your vision. Your computer antenna and router antenna must be located so that Superman can look through walls and see the router.

Remember, the antenna does not direct signals in its pointed direction. All signals propagate perpendicular from an antenna. A vertical antenna means all signals are in a horizontal plane. And near zero signals directed upstairs.

Better computer manufacturers provide utilities to view signal strength in dBs. Five bars is a useless tool for measuring signal strength. If your computer manufacturer is not so helpful, then get 3rd party software such as Netstumbler. Displays dB numbers for all nearby Wifi access points. Use those numbers to orient the antenna and to 'see through walls like Superman'. You should have at least -60 dBs all through that condo. -80 dBs means something is obstructing 'Superman's vision'.
 
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#20
I hardly get 2 MB/s with powerline device and it freezes my keyboard and mouse when I transfer large files to and from the server. When I put the device on a different room and connect, I get around 3 MB/s and keyboard and mouse is working. Strange!

My wireless get me 2.5 MB/s transfer speed. hmm wireless is still good?
 

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#21
that's too bad. have you tried plugging directly into the wall. it is highly recommended you dont attach them to a powerstrip or surge protector. the ones i got work very well from opposite sides of the house.

TRENDnet TPL-401E2K Powerline AV Adapter Kit Up to...
 
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#22
that's too bad. have you tried plugging directly into the wall. it is highly recommended you dont attach them to a powerstrip or surge protector. the ones i got work very well from opposite sides of the house.

TRENDnet TPL-401E2K Powerline AV Adapter Kit Up to...
Its plugged directly to the wall power socket.

I get about 2 MB/s meaning 20 Mbps which is what a poor wireless connection can achieve.

The device that I got is rated for 200 Mbps (theoretical) but I hardly get 10% of it. That sucks.

Going to return all these and get a better router and wireless adapters.
 

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#23
Its plugged directly to the wall power socket.

I get about 2 MB/s meaning 20 Mbps which is what a poor wireless connection can achieve.

The device that I got is rated for 200 Mbps (theoretical) but I hardly get 10% of it. That sucks.

Going to return all these and get a better router and wireless adapters.
yea, the latest ones with IEEE 1901 do much better. 200mbps is on the physical layer, which means really it is 100mbps on the transport layer after all of the fancy OFDM stuff happens. and even that 100mbps only happens in a lab under the most perfect conditions. the same with wireless.
 
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#24
yea, the latest ones with IEEE 1901 do much better. 200mbps is on the physical layer, which means really it is 100mbps on the transport layer after all of the fancy OFDM stuff happens. and even that 100mbps only happens in a lab under the most perfect conditions. the same with wireless.
I am going to get this trusty Rosewill USB wireless adapter and be done with it for now.

Rosewill RNX-G1 Wireless Black Dongle w/ External ...

Already have 2 of these and they work great and good speed. Need one more for the problem pc and hopefully I can wire the whole home later.
 
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Video Card(s) Msi GTX 465 Golden (flashed to 470)
Storage OCZ 60GB agility
Display(s) Sony SDM-HS95P
Case just sitting ontop of my mobo box
Power Supply Corsair HX 650
Software Windows 7 x64
#25
when you were using those powerline adapters, was there any connection drops at all?

I am considering going with powerline, speed is not my biggest concern, since my internet connection is only 12 mbps. but sometimes my connections would be dropped and it irritates me a lot. granted its only 3-4 times a month, but its still a bother.