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PSU buying advice - Focus PX 750 vs Prime PX 750 vs Prime TX 750

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you can figure out the cost savings with the linked calculator going from 80+ to titanium and everything in between. For me, going from gold to titanium would save me less then $1.50 per year.
 
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Cost savings isn't the right argument and it has been said a number of times already. There is a pretty sizeable difference in excess heat and as a result, noise. To cool down an additional 22W (example from a few posts up) in a PSU-sized and shaped box takes some doing.

22W is not an exceptional number. 80+ Gold is 92%, 80+ Titanium is 96% at their peak. At around 400W usage (which is a mid-high range gaming machine) it is 32W vs 16W.
 
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Ummm, no. That would be almost logarithmic. Its not. Its linear.

How could it be 50% less heat with only 5% increase in efficiency? My calculous is a bit rusty but if your statement were true, you would be talking steel melting temperatures compared to your basic, generic 70% efficient PS

At 90% efficiency, that means the PSU must pull from the wall 417W (417 x .9 = 375.3).
At 95% efficiency, that means the PSU must pull from the wall 395W (395 x .95 = 375.25).

No calculus needed. Just 5th grade math. There was no mention of watts used, the poster is 100% correct. The poster was saying you could halg the heat created in your system, not ytheirpower bil. Using your own example. is about waste heat being halved. In your own example,

375 / 0 .95 = 394.7368 from wall 19.737 wasted as heat
375 / 0 .90 = 416.667 from wall 41.667 wasted as heat

41.667 / 19.737 = about twice the wasted heat

It would take years to make up the difference in costs between Gold and Titanium - unless you managed to score a fantastic deal.

Not arguing the point but well we also have to keep in mind we keep the the PSU for years. Where you live is also a factor. In 2018, New York averaged $0.193 but in the NYC and suburban area it was over 24 cents. In Greenport, Long Island (I ran that utility for 8 years) it was 11 cents ... in certain other areas it was 5.5 cents. Louisiana average was 9,37 cents ... Hawaii 32.67. In the 29 years we have been building PCs, we have often bought larger PSUs of the same brand / model because they were cheaper (efficiency improvement was also nice as systems operated closer to best efficiency point. We have also in more recent years, recommended that our user consider an upgrade when the 4 year cost of ownership is actually cheaper. The jump to Titanium, at the pinnacle, is always of course a big jump like the 2nd tier GFX card to the top tier. but jumping 2 steps (Bronze to Gold / Silver to Platinum) is not at all that uncommon.

Of course right now for whatever reason PSU and storage proces are sky high making it a poor time to use for an example.


ive been buying the Focus+ Golds for a handful of years now, theyre really nice, without requiring the silly prices like the platinum PSU's have.
im all for investing in a good power supply, but i refuse to spend extra for the super duper ultra silent unobtanium edition PSU's. Gold will suffice, & always has for me.

$85 for the Focus+ gold 750 was what i last paid

EDIT*
holy hell! is that what Seasonic PSU's are going for now?! $160+ Glad i bought when they were half that

Yeah I just told my son to wait ... prices in some sectors are too high

However ....

Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 550 = $139.94

Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 550 = $125.95

The cost savings is of curse much bigger from Bronze to Gold than Gold to Titanium ... but moving up a grade can often pay off. We use a spreadsheet tpo perform these anaylyses. Each analysis is tied to utility cost, usage hours and specific load which generalizations are unable to account for
 

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So in reality, it makes very little difference between gold, platinum, and titanium power supplies?
I said my last post will be my last, this time I mean it.

There are many variables and exceptions that should be factored in on a case by case basis. But "in general", you are right. With all else being equal, "it makes very little difference". In fact, the differences are so tiny, that for most users, they are negligible and insignificant. In fact, for most users, Gold is the more cost efficient way to go. But for a few, Platinum or Titanium may be worth it. But I would encourage them to do the math first. And most importantly, be realistic with the numbers they use when doing that math. Including how long they realistically plan on keeping that computer. Most computers are retired (or upgraded) long before they die - and that is much in part because new generation hardware is required to support the latest generations of programs and communications protocols. Or, folks just want something new and faster!

No calculus needed. Just 5th grade math. There was no mention of watts used, the poster is 100% correct.
:( Watts used was mentioned over and over again. For example, I repeatedly said from idle demands to maximum load. You even used watts mentioned from my examples.
Not arguing the point but well we also have to keep in mind we keep the the PSU for years.
:( Just saying "years" is not helpful. 3 years is years. So is 5. The fact is, when it comes to computer components, PSUs fail more often that other components. Or they need to be upgraded to support a bigger GPU, etc. And again, people, on average, replace their computers long before they die.
 
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Yeah I just told my son to wait ... prices in some sectors are too high

However ....

Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 550 = $139.94

the Focus + Gold 750 was MSRP (or were a year or so back) at $89.99 or there about.
maybe its corona borealis, or just market fluctuation, but theyve climbed 100% in under 2 years, last time something like this happened was when mining made GPU's like unicorns :rolleyes:
 
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Yes, so get what is the better unit/lower price.
i usually look at a couple of recommended/top review units from a few websites like tpu and guru3d,
then pick the ones fitting power features (semi/fully modular), and do a more detailed lookup,
as the rating doesnt equal build quality.

e.g. there are great bronze units out their matching "numbers" etc of another brands next higher tier (or even gold rating),
but their are also plat (less titanium) units that i would never touch, and rather get a gold rated one.

havent looked at it for a while, so cant tell if its content is up to date..
psu review data base
 

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Cost savings isn't the right argument and it has been said a number of times already. There is a pretty sizeable difference in excess heat and as a result, noise. To cool down an additional 22W (example from a few posts up) in a PSU-sized and shaped box takes some doing.

22W is not an exceptional number. 80+ Gold is 92%, 80+ Titanium is 96% at their peak. At around 400W usage (which is a mid-high range gaming machine) it is 32W vs 16W.
Are these differences in excess heat appreciated by the general user?

I also have another silly question but if you were to compare an 850W PSU and 650W, would the former run hotter and cost more to run, despite the same pc components?
 
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I also have another silly question but if you were to compare an 850W PSU and 650W, would the former run hotter and cost more to run, despite the same pc components?
the wattage rating isnt affecting wattage used in any real sense (aside from extremes or full load). an 850W PSU can simply handle more wattage, it doesnt necessarily use more while running an identical load to a 650W model of the same type.

so if you have 2 identical systems, running identical loads, 1 with a 650W PSU & 1 with a 850W PSU , and if they are both running minesweeper, or firefox, the usage should be nearly identical for both PSU's
 
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So in reality, it makes very little difference between gold, platinum, and titanium power supplies?
In this case, with Seasonic Prime Titanium vs Platinum and even vs Gold there is indeed very little difference because other than for the components that make up for better efficiency (MOSFETs and capacitors mainly), they're pretty much identical.
However if you're talking about different PSU there may be noticeable difference in performance or quality but efficiency is secondary to that, i.e you shouldn't base your PSU choice on efficiency badge, period.
 

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the wattage rating isnt affecting wattage used in any real sense (aside from extremes or full load). an 850W PSU can simply handle more wattage, it doesnt necessarily use more while running an identical load to a 650W model of the same type.

so if you have 2 identical systems, running identical loads, 1 with a 650W PSU & 1 with a 850W PSU , and if they are both running minesweeper, or firefox, the usage should be nearly identical for both PSU's
Does this include your yearly electric bills, efficiency and wasted heat (assuming all components including power supply itself are the same, except the total wattage)?
 
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Watts used was mentioned over and over again. For example, I repeatedly said from idle demands to maximum load. You even used watts mentioned from my examples.

1. Bill, .... it is expected that when you quote a specific post and put your reply underneath that, that the comment refer to the quoted post and not something posted somewhere else. It was the 7th post ... how is posts 8 onward in any way relevant ?

My intent was to correct a misstatement, not nitpick ... but ... this doesn't fly .... "watts used" was not mentioned.... not even once prior to your post. There was mention of fans, warrantees, etc.... but no mention at all of power consumption .... the word "watt" only appears once before your post (in relation to PSU rating not consumption ). here's what you quoted:

Correct me if I'm wrong, I guess?) Thermals. An uptick in efficiency from 90% to 95% should half the amount of (waste) heat a PSU generates;

You corrected the poster,.... the poster was not wrong. The subsequent responses don't change that.

Just saying "years" is not helpful. 3 years is years. So is 5. The fact is, when it comes to computer components, PSUs fail more often that other components. Or they need to be upgraded to support a bigger GPU, etc. And again, people, on average, replace their computers long before they die.

I'm not just "saying" years, this is standard economic practice. We consult to developers, municipalities and other entities that build things. We make recommendations based upon TCO or total cost of ownership. A municipality wants to repave a section of road. We might advise them that they have 2 options:

a) $80,000 using a pavement design with an anticipated life of 6 years
b) $96,000 using a pavement design with an anticipated life of 8 years

Factoring in the cost of borrowing when all is said and done, the monthly payments are not the issue ... the total cost of ownership is and its cheaper for the muncipality to pave the road on an 8 year cycle.... it also reduces the impact on the community as is 3 repavings in 24 years instead of 4.

Sound economic judgement depends on TCO. With a PC, this includes, how long they intend to keep it ... including if user will use same case / PSU in an upgrade or pass it on to someone else. The build Im typing from is 7 years old ... PSU has a 12 year warranty. Have 6 boxes here.... system components vary from 7 years to 6 months (in case upgrade) ... but every case and PSU is at least 4 years old. The oldest is Gold Antec CP-850 I bought in 2009. We been building PCs for 29 years .... most of our users average 3-5 years of usage ... even when they upgrade, the old PC gets handed down to a family member of friend. Monthly cost of electricity is not a purchase related decision.

With a PSU we use information provided by the user on frequency of usage (Joe Blow games 30 hours a week), how long they keep their PSUs and cost of electricity. In the attached example.....

Total Estimated Cost of Ownership Including PSU and electricity costs are $1,220.83 w/ Seasonic 750 Watt Gold
Total Estimated Cost of Ownership Including PSU and electricity costs are $1,216.92 w/ Seasonic 750 Watt Platinum

Payback period for the extra $20 investment is 3.35 years; $4 not really a major impact on anyone's life, but neither is 420. But in Hawaii, it grows to $35 ... in parts of Europe even more.
 
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Does this include efficiency and wasted heat (assuming all components including power supply itself are the same, except the total wattage)?

there should be no noticeable differences.
 
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the wattage rating isnt affecting wattage used in any real sense (aside from extremes or full load). an 850W PSU can simply handle more wattage, it doesnt necessarily use more while running an identical load to a 650W model of the same type.

so if you have 2 identical systems, running identical loads, 1 with a 650W PSU & 1 with a 850W PSU , and if they are both running minesweeper, or firefox, the usage should be nearly identical for both PSU's

Agreed. There is a difference.,,, but as you said, it's small and whether it's significant is a question that each users opinion will vary on. Lets assume a 500 watt load.

1. Power used:
At 77% load, a Gold 650 watt PSU will be operating at 77% load or about 88.38% efficiency, pulling 565.74 watts from the wall
At 59% load, a Gold 850 watt PSU will be operating at 59% load or about 89.46% efficiency, pulling 558.91 watts from the wall

No big deal of course, it pulls only 7 more watts and would cost me about $10 over 4 years.... no big whoop.

2. Heat - There's the associated extra heat ... again not a big whoop at 7 watts

3. Performance - I have chosen a bad example at 500 watts for this one, but the close your load get to the power rating, there are several performance impacts. For this part let's assume we 600 watts or so.:
a) In many instances, the closer you get to a power rating, the impact on voltage stability increases a bit
b) In many instances, the closer you get to a power rating, the impact on electrical noise increases a bit
c) The closer you get to a power rating, the impact on fan speed and the associated sound noise increases.

For most, the 1st two won't be significant unless they extreme ovelcockers ...but I have a real bugaboo about noise, if i can tell system is on with my eyes closed, I'm unhappy.

... on my build I calculated about a 775 watt load, a 850 was a bit to close so I was thinking a 1050 ... but the 1250 was cheaper so i grabbed that at the time ... the PSU fan has never urned on. POTOH hand my son was looking for an EVGA G2 850 and bought the 1000 ... for the get go ... it was the only thing in his system that you could hear and he had 2 cooler (later 2 fan OLC type AIO) fans and 7 case fans. It failed during warranty and the replacement was just as bad. He replaced it with a Seasonic Focus Gold and no longer an issue.
 
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I use my PCs for gaming. They pull plenty of continuous power while I'm doing that. Don't assume that your individual use case and cost basis matches everyone else's.

Other than efficiency itself being a good goal, I like that my power supply generates less heat and therefore doesn't generate as much noise for cooling.
 
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I like that my power supply generates less heat and therefore doesn't generate as much noise for cooling.
And that, again, doesn't depend on the efficiency of the PSU directly but rather on the design of the PSU and it's fan curve. Two PSUs with difference efficiency certificates can have the very same fan curve and conversely, two PSUs with the same efficiency or even using the same platform can have drastically different acoustic profiles.
 
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