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PSU gurus needed! Failed project

hat

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#1
So, I have a Corsair CX600w. It's not a terrible unit, but the +12v leads burned up, most likely because I was running two GTX1070s at 100% load without any sort of additional power (besides the usual pci-e power connector, of course), drawing too much power from the 24 pin ATX connector. I was able to save the +12v wires by splicing fresh ends on, but the 24 pin connector is (was) burned up. I was able to remove the 24 pin connector from a spare donor unit, but when I went to do the same to the Corsair unit, I couldn't get the pins to come out... I only wound up further damaging the connector.

So basically I'm left with 3 options.

1. Just buy a comparable power supply. This idea sucks because there's still nothing really wrong with the CX600, other than a bunch of lopped off wires, and I've saved it a time or two before by splicing the +12v leads. I guess you could say it's a little sentimental now. Also, I don't like spending money.

2. Buy pins and a crimping tool from... somewhere. I know I can get pins from modmymods and I think I saw a crimping tool on Amazon that would work... but I don't like spending money and with the cost of these items, I could just get the cheap but respectable eVGA 450 BT. And then I toss a good unit.

3. Without buying pins and a crimping tool, or a power supply, what's left? Splicing wires that already have the ends on them. This means splicing every wire on the 24 pin connector. A bit of a pain, but I could do it, provided it doesn't burn my house down. I'm a little worried doing this would increase resistance or something... I'm pretty confident I can splice wires well enough for this to work, but... eh.
 
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#2
I'd just go with soldering the two ends together and heat shrinking them to cover the joint
 
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#3
(if your in the US)I may have a spare 24 pin modular cable i think, if it's suitable for your cause, but it's not a corsair cable. it would likely have ripple suppression capacitors, and all the fancy stuff ,because it's either a G2 EVGA ,or seasonic.

I actually have quite a few spare power supply cable's that are modular because they build up over the years and I have 5 PCs that are often with you being upgraded
 

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#4
This means splicing every wire on the 24 pin connector.
You can pick up solderless crimp connecters and some heat shrink from an auto parts store for probably less than $10
 
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#5
Amazon has heatshrink tubing assorted color/length 800pcs for around $8usd fwiw
 

hat

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#6
I may need to at least get heatshrink tubing. I have electrical tape, but that's a lot of taping... I don't have a soldering iron either, though, so the splices are likely just twisted together and done...

The power supply is non modular, so extra cables and such wouldn't really help.
 
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#8
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#9
If you aren't a good solderer then I would butt splice them. In either case, stagger them as best you can so you don't end up with a giant wad of splices or solder joints. Also, if you are playing with electronics, don't be cheap. You are only going to make it worse.
 
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#10
If it's to the point where your iffy on the work you have to do to get the power supply functional, I would say just get a new power supply.

They've gotten more expensive since theyve become popular ,but you can get a 550 W seasonic focus plus gold for $75 , or you could get a lesser model for 50 bucks from a decent company with fewer options. the way i look at it is god forbid, a spliced connection comes loose, and the bare wire touches your motherboard, or your GPU, or worse, your cases metal parts, and you touch it.....spend the $50-$80, and be safer
 

hat

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#11
I'm sure I can do it, but to do it right is gonna cost some kinda money... those solder seals look nice, though. But at that point I can get the cheap but respectable evga 450 bt. Its slightly bigger brother is powering two 1070s and an overclocked 2600k right now...
 

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#12
You over amped the corsair, just use it as a boot up unit for testing but not 24/7 use. Get a bigger psu
 

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#13
I'm not sure exactly what happened there. Seems like the evga 500w is handling it fine though...
 
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#14
Pretty damn stupid running ~800usd graphics cards with a low-end 50usd PSU. Just sayin'.
 

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#15
Pretty damn stupid running ~800usd graphics cards with a low-end 50usd PSU. Just sayin'.
Naah, not if it's a decent unit, which this is. The GPUs won't benefit from even a Corsair AX unit.
 
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#16
Naah, not if it's a decent unit, which this is. The GPUs won't benefit from even a Corsair AX unit.
But the reliability of a cheap PSU.. and it doesn't always go under RMA if a crappy PSU kills hardware.

Well, not my problem, but I prefer high quality PSUs. Even if it's more expensive, I'll just drink less beer and that's it. :D
 

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#17
But the reliability of a cheap PSU.. and it doesn't always go under RMA if a crappy PSU kills hardware.

Well, not my problem, but I prefer high quality PSUs. Even if it's more expensive, I'll just drink less beer and that's it. :D
They're not less reliable though.

And beer money is not like other money. ;)
 

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#18
You over amped the corsair, just use it as a boot up unit for testing but not 24/7 use. Get a bigger psu
Yeah @hat this one ^^ beat me to it. :p

I'd like to add that I've been running the 850W Corsair PSU in my specs since 2009 and I could throw everything at it without breaking a sweat, even a couple of GTX 590 cards in SLI a while back. You can't really have too much power on tap with to cover these eventualities, so I'd recommend something like a Seasonic 850W or better to ensure that it never happens again. The cables in such a PSU will be rated for such a load 24/7 and shouldn't burn out on you.
 
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#19
Naah, not if it's a decent unit, which this is. The GPUs won't benefit from even a Corsair AX unit.
CX from Corsair ... decent? :laugh: i wouldn't even get a CX750 to power my rig even if it was free + a 500$ voucher on a GPU... OEM is CWT also ... (the only PSU's i had that went south were CWT OEM )

well a CX750 would spare me 15$ over my Seasonic M12II 750 Evo ... i guess 15$ more is not too bad :laugh:

all review i saw about the CX were in the "more cons than pros" and denoted a pricing being a little "off"

I'd like to add that I've been running the 850W Corsair PSU in my specs since 2009 and I could throw everything at it without breaking a sweat, even a couple of GTX 590 cards in SLI a while back. You can't really have too much power on tap with to cover these eventualities, so I'd recommend something like a Seasonic 850W or better to ensure that it never happens again. The cables in such a PSU will be rated for such a load 24/7 and shouldn't burn out on you.
well you run a HX... not a CX, although they are from the same OEM (CWT) but CWT tend to do a better job on high end, still overpriced tho, units

also on the Seasonic recommendation i agree ... but even a 750W like mine would hold that rig (i have a similar configuration and even if i added a second 1070 it would still be within safe zone )
 
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#20
CX from Corsair ... decent? :laugh: i wouldn't even get a CX750 to power my rig even if it was free + a 500$ voucher on a GPU... OEM is CWT also ... (the only PSU's i had that went south were CWT OEM )

well a CX750 would spare me 15$ over my Seasonic M12II 750 Evo ... i guess 15$ more is not too bad :laugh:

all review i saw about the CX were in the "more cons than pros" and denoted a pricing being a little "off"

Too expensive is the only bad thing about them really, that much is true. But they're not bad units by any account. CM Lite and random Ebay crap are bad units.
 

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#21
well you run a HX... not a CX, although they are from the same OEM (CWT) but CWT tend to do a better job on high end, still overpriced tho, units

also on the Seasonic recommendation i agree ... but even a 750W like mine would hold that rig (i have a similar configuration and wven if i added a second 1070 it would still be within safe zone )
Yes, I got this particular HX unit, because of the incredible reviews it received and it hasn't let me down. I can thoroughly recommend the Corsair brand, but you do have to be careful to get the right model, as you've described.

I got mine for a decent price too, on special offer. :cool:
 
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#22
CX600 is laughably bad by today's Corsair standards. This PSU have a rich history of bad performance reviews. Its build quality is not on par with competing products.

Great PSUs are cheap, grab a 650W BQ series for 60$ or better yet a 650W GQ for 70$ and move on.
 
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#23
It's possible to repair it, but consider the cost: to do it the right way you need pin headers, plastic housing for your 24P and a crimping tool.
The latter one is $20 alone (that's the cheapest one I found on Aliexpress for my projects). Pins and connectors are cheap.
Also, if you want to save some work time by keeping some survived pins on 5v and 3.3V rails and stick'em into a new housing, then you'll also need a pin extractor (that's another $5 on top, and with the quality of these tools you might need at least 2 of them).
That easily covers half the cost of a decent 600W PSU. Given how much time, effort and punctured fingertips you'll have to spend on this project, I'd say buying a new PSU doesn't sound that bad at all.
 
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#24
CX from Corsair ... decent?
the longest lasting PSU ive owned was a CX600. Ive recently heard someone who's actually lasted longer (mine went nearly a decade) . I wont argue they were top of line units, but not everyone had terrible experiences with them.
 
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#25
the longest lasting PSU ive owned was a CX600. Ive recently heard someone who's actually lasted longer (mine went nearly a decade) . I wont argue they were top of line units, but not everyone had terrible experiences with them.
My longest lasting was an Antec Trupower Trio 650W. I still have it, it still runs. And I purchased it in 2006. Fan just doesn't run anymore and I already replaced it a couple of times.

I just do not want to use it due to its age though. Plus two broken power sata connectors.
 
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