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PSU too small/PSU Failing?

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#1
Within the last week i added a 2nd GTX660, and i have started noticing "freezes" where the computer becomes unresponsive. I can still move the mouse, but I can't click on anything, and no key press appears to be recognized. When the computer starts responding again every key press and click happen normally within 1-2 seconds. The 12v supply also drops from about 12.1 to 11.45-11.6 when a 3d application is ran. Volt read taken with DMM.

The PSU is a Thermaltake TR2 600w Model TR-600

Specs
+3.3v=22A
+5v=18A
+12v1=23A
+12v2=20A
-12v=0.3A
+5vsb=2.5A

The reasons I am questioning the PSU are
1. recent increased power demands
2. voltage drops on 12v supply
 
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#2
search google for testing 12v rails with a voltmeter.

the quality will be paramount and a cheap psu will may be dying with this hardware and you may be seeing it die!

i learnt this when i had some cheap £40 psu and the pc freezes, runs hot and the psu gets hot!
 

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#3
You test the voltages with a multimeter? Because that's the only reliable way to do it.

But you are right we need the PSU sticker.
 
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#4
1. Which EXACT PSU...remove it check as that is VERY important here...
2. Your voltage drops, were they measured by a Multimeter or software? (Note software is notoriously inaccurate).
3. 2 GTX 660's at stock speeds could EASILY be powered by a 500W QUALITY brand PSU. So assuming your PSU is decent, the wattage is not the issue.
 
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#5
I knew I forgot to add something. I got those with a digital multimeter. Will add that to 1st post.

EDIT: Turning of pc now to check PSU sticker. will add soon.
 
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#6
Ok, so with a DMM... interesting...

That said, 5% is spec so...12.6 to 11.4 is in spec really...
 
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#7
Need the brand of PSU as well as the specs. Also is it clean from dust? And where do you live. Not all country's have clean power
 

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#9
I knew I forgot to add something. I got those with a digital multimeter. Will add that to 1st post.

EDIT: Turning of pc now to check PSU sticker. will add soon.
This is actually the internet at it's finest. I'm sitting in my underwear, slihly high from meds that didn't take as they should have, waiting for a guy in god knows where to take apart his computer.
 
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#10
This is actually the internet at it's finest. I'm sitting in my underwear, slihly high from meds that didn't take as they should have, waiting for a guy in god knows where to take apart his computer.
I live in the USA, and the PSU is a Thermaltake TR2 600w Model TR-600.
I posted this about 2 minutes before you and since then i have updated my first post.

And i have even add the PSU to MY System Specs
 
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#11
If that's the original TR-600, I'd probably consider upgrading, especially if it's a few years old. Your PSU only has "72% +" efficiency, which means up to nearly 30% of the electricity going into it from the wall gets converted to useless heat. Given the relatively massive voltage drop in your 12v rails under load, your power supply is probably struggling even though 2 non-Ti GTX 660s isn't really a lot. I'd start searching for a new one in the 750-850w range for a little headroom since you're running an LGA 2011 system. I personally prefer 80Plus Gold/Platinum rated PSUs (90-92% peak efficiency) but most Bronze (85% peak) would do alright as a minimum.
 
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#12
This is actually the internet at it's finest. I'm sitting in my underwear, slihly high from meds that didn't take as they should have, waiting for a guy in god knows where to take apart his computer.
TMI :rolleyes:
 
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#14
Very bad PSU, get's terrible reviews, 20% DOA, system crashes, squealing noises, etc. For SLI you want a little headroom, get a 750-850w, Corsair and Seasonic are the best.
 
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#15
I'd change the PSU. 600W would be more than enough, but I'm sorry to say that your PSU is really crap... Sell it off on ebay and buy a better one?
 
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#16
I'd change the PSU. 600W would be more than enough, but I'm sorry to say that your PSU is really crap... Sell it off on ebay and buy a better one?
I would do that, but for some reason i did not think to say that when running 3d programs, the PSU makes a loud noise that reminds me of welding with a mig. So I am thinking that a capicitor is going or has gone.
 
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#17
I would do that, but for some reason i did not think to say that when running 3d programs, the PSU makes a loud noise that reminds me of welding with a mig. So I am thinking that a capicitor is going or has gone.
Or it could just be overly stressed which (from my experience with overclocking motherboards and graphics cards) causes their voltage regulation circuitry to become noticeably noisier due to increased current draw I presume.
 
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#18
PSU has multi rails. Look at the amps on each rail. that is the culprit. this is why I am against multi-rail PSU's. My Corsair HX 1000 went poof due to overloading a rail.
 
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#19
I would do that, but for some reason i did not think to say that when running 3d programs, the PSU makes a loud noise that reminds me of welding with a mig. So I am thinking that a capicitor is going or has gone.

Or it could just be overly stressed which (from my experience with overclocking motherboards and graphics cards) causes their voltage regulation circuitry to become noticeably noisier due to increased current draw I presume.
Probably the main transformer is "feeling the pressure". That PSU is overrated by at least 150W, and it doesn't appreciate being pushed to the limit. The sound is a product of a phenomenon akin to coil whine. The transformer's core is near saturation, so eddy currents form on the windings and cause them to vibrate.

PSU has multi rails. Look at the amps on each rail. that is the culprit. this is why I am against multi-rail PSU's. My Corsair HX 1000 went poof due to overloading a rail.
No. In this case, I'm familiar with internal layout of the PSU, and it's decidedly single-rail, it's just advertised as being multi. That being said, there's nothing inherently wrong with the multi-rail idea (it's similar to what the circuit breaker does in your house), it's just that there are good executions of that idea, and there are bad ones. Just as there are good single-rail units, and there are horrible ones.
 
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#20
This is actually the internet at it's finest. I'm sitting in my underwear, slihly high from meds that didn't take as they should have, waiting for a guy in god knows where to take apart his computer.
can i use that as my signature, pretty please??? :p
 
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#21
PSU has multi rails. Look at the amps on each rail. that is the culprit. this is why I am against multi-rail PSU's. My Corsair HX 1000 went poof due to overloading a rail.
Thing is, not all PSUs that are labeled like that are true multi rail PSUs in the first place. A lot dont have OCP/OVP on each rail so though the box says it, each rail can truly handle the full output. Your HX was with OVP/OCP on each 12v rail, however, Im not sure on that thermaltake (doesnt look like it). Multi-rail PSUs are fine for those not running a shed load of stuff. The other problem with a monster PSU and a single rail is that is a shed load of power on one rail. You may want to ask cmaris, JG, or from your previous site more information on the good and bad for single/dual rail PSUs. Again for most, especially here at TPU, its a non issue. :toast:

No. In this case, I'm familiar with internal layout of the PSU, and it's decidedly single-rail, it's just advertised as being multi. That being said, there's nothing inherently wrong with the multi-rail idea (it's similar to what the circuit breaker does in your house), it's just that there are good executions of that idea, and there are bad ones. Just as there are good single-rail units, and there are horrible ones.
QFT.
 
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#22
it could just be coincidence but run Crystal Disk Info and check if your hard drive is ok.
 
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#23
Got a new PSU yesterday, and my computer is quieter and not 100% sure on this but but seems to idle at lower temps.

Model of new PSU = Thermaltake SP-1000M
Specs
+3.3v=28A
+5v=30A
+12v1=40A
+12v2=80A
-12v=0.8A
+5vsb=3A
 
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#24
Got a new PSU yesterday, and my computer is quieter and not 100% sure on this but but seems to idle at lower temps.

Model of new PSU = Thermaltake SP-1000M
Specs
+3.3v=28A
+5v=30A
+12v1=40A
+12v2=80A
-12v=0.8A
+5vsb=3A
Assuming all is well then for now?

Although you should have done some research before you spent the $200 on that psu (http://www.overclockers.com/thermaltake-smart-m-1000-w-power-supply-review)

Use your tools (Internet) to make the best decisions to avoid making the same mistakes.
 
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#25
yes all good, and considering i got it for about 100$ it will work for now.

edit: yes it was new.
 
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