Pump Making Grinding Sound

[blu3flannel]

Well according to FrozenCPU "While designed to be corrosion resistant, OCZ reccommends the use of integrated anti-corrosive additives for all water cooling systems to ensure maximum lifespan of your products." So it is recommended to use glycol. However if you notice any micro cracks starting in your res then I would swap the res out or get a better pump like the MCP 655 or something. May want to include a drain as well in your next tube routing project. Makes it easier to empty the loop and clean the system from time to time.

Yeah, there are some micro cracks starting to show on the left side. How much to MCP 655's go for?

EDIT: That's without added glycol, is that bad?

 

[Sadasius]

Yeah, there are some micro cracks starting to show on the left side. How much to MCP 655's go for?

EDIT: That's without added glycol, is that bad?

Well you may wish to change out the 2 of them then. The pumps are usually around $100 depending if it comes with a top or not. Click pic (This one is $76.95)


It is handier with a top to screw in fittings. However the stock top is fine as well and just need clamps. Also you may want to look at delrin bay reservoirs. They are more durable and resistant to cracking unlike many acrylic types. Take a look at BP's here..

 

[blu3flannel]

I really can't afford that, is there a cheaper alternative that I can look into? Perhaps a quick fix or something?

EDIT: I may be able to when Christmas comes around, but I'll need to find something temporary until then. Any suggestions?

EDIT 2: Where would I empty and fill the loop if the res doesn't have the fillport in the top?

 

[Sadasius]

I really can't afford that, is there a cheaper alternative that I can look into? Perhaps a quick fix or something?

A quick fix is using a 'T' line directly to the pump entrance that can serve to fill and empty the loop. 'T' lines have been the answer to this quick alternative since the beginning of watercooling.

EDIT: I may be able to when Christmas comes around, but I'll need to find something temporary until then. Any suggestions?

For the pump or res? See above fix for res and the pump....well either take the noise for now or add glycol and take your chances a tsunami does not occur.

EDIT 2: Where would I empty and fill the loop if the res doesn't have the fillport in the top?

You add lines as fill ports and you add a drain to the bottom of your loop. Very easy to implement. Heck my build has 2 drains right before each pump. Mind you I did it the expensive way. Using a small tuck away 'T' line is not only affordable but pretty darn wise as well. Same thing with a fill line. Add a small tuck away fill line with a screw top fitting to keep it all sealed up. Easy to do and cheap as well. All it takes is research and planning. But if that is your first loop then I would give yourself a pat on the back as that is pretty decent for the first time. If it is not your first time then hang your head in shame as you will not walk the halls of watercooling greatness....j/k

Here is an old pic (need to take an updated one) of one of my systems. My tube routing is better now then in that old pic. But just before the pumps you can see I added ball valves that drain the loop. I simply bring my tower to the sink and open them up and open the fill port and it drain very quickly. No mess!

 

[blu3flannel]

A quick fix is using a 'T' line directly to the pump entrance that can serve to fill and empty the loop. 'T' lines have been the answer to this quick alternative since the beginning of watercooling.



For the pump or res? See above fix for res and the pump....well either take the noise for now or add glycol and take your chances a tsunami does not occur.



You add lines as fill ports and you add a drain to the bottom of your loop. Very easy to implement. Heck my build has 2 drains right before each pump. Mind you I did it the expensive way. Using a small tuck away 'T' line is not only affordable but pretty darn wise as well. Same thing with a fill line. Add a small tuck away fill line with a screw top fitting to keep it all sealed up. Easy to do and cheap as well. All it takes is research and planning. But if that is your first loop then I would give yourself a pat on the back as that is pretty decent for the first time. If it is not your first time then hang your head in shame as you will not walk the halls of watercooling greatness....j/k

Here is an old pic (need to take an updated one) of one of my systems. My tube routing is better now then in that old pic. But just before the pumps you can see I added ball valves that drain the loop. I simply bring my tower to the sink and open them up and open the fill port and it drain very quickly. No mess!
http://www.circleofleviathan.com/rig5.jpg

Thing is, I got the res so I didn't have to use a T-line anymore (used to have one, massive hassle though ). I really don't want to have to add the T-line back in and have to deal with it again. And what do you mean by a tsunami? Will the res bust open or something?

 

[Sadasius]

Thing is, I got the res so I didn't have to use a T-line anymore (used to have one, massive hassle though ). I really don't want to have to add the T-line back in and have to deal with it again. And what do you mean by a tsunami? Will the res bust open or something?

Just gave an option that is quick and cheap which is exactly what you asked for. May not be what you want to hear but it is what it is. It should not just bust open but will start to leak slowly and then quicker. Water has a funny way of finding weak points. Grand Canyon is a case in point.

 

[MT Alex]

With the location of your pump, draining would be a piece of cake by just taking off the zip tie, pulling the pump towards the edge of the case, and removing the inlet tube. That's my exact MO as well. I wouldn't worry about a T if you don't want it. I have always wanted one, but not enough to rebuild everything. The old inlet hose trick works fine.

Worst case scenario, the cracks in your pump rupture, the water drains out the bottom of your case (since your pump is in an opportune position,) and your cpu shuts itself down when it gets to hot. Not great, but not a real big deal. EDIT: Just noticed it's your res with the cracks, not your pump housing. I doubt that Brandon would have sold you a res that was dangerous.

Also, the 655s are much louder than the Jingway pumps, if that makes a difference to you.

 

[Wile E]

With the location of your pump, draining would be a piece of cake by just taking off the zip tie, pulling the pump towards the edge of the case, and removing the inlet tube. That's my exact MO as well. I wouldn't worry about a T if you don't want it. I have always wanted one, but not enough to rebuild everything. The old inlet hose trick works fine.

Worst case scenario, the cracks in your pump rupture, the water drains out the bottom of your case (since your pump is in an opportune position,) and your cpu shuts itself down when it gets to hot. Not great, but not a real big deal. EDIT: Just noticed it's your res with the cracks, not your pump housing. I doubt that Brandon would have sold you a res that was dangerous.

Also, the 655s are much louder than the Jingway pumps, if that makes a difference to you.

And much less awesome. If not the 655/D5, I like going with 350/DDC3.1 for silence or 355/DDC3.2 for performance with aftermarket tops.

 

[blu3flannel]

Why do the 350/355 pumps need replacement tops, are the stock ones inadequate or something? And the 350 is only $60 on Newegg, hmm...

 

[Wile E]

They only have fixed fittings for 3/8" ID tubing.

 

[MT Alex]

This is the step above the Jingway you have. I just got one to replace my 655 and I couldn't be happier. http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html?&cat=0 I'm pretty sure it has a lot more sauce than the 350, especially one without a top. It is virtually silent, which (if you haven't guessed) is a huge deal to me. The custom tops increase head pressure and make it easier to use g1/4 fittings.

 

[Wile E]

This is the step above the Jingway you have. I just got one to replace my 655 and I couldn't be happier. http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html?&cat=0 I'm pretty sure it has a lot more sauce than the 350, especially one without a top. It is virtually silent, which (if you haven't guessed) is a huge deal to me. The custom tops increase head pressure and make it easier to use g1/4 fittings.

They don't have more power than a topped DDC, and they don't beat a stock DDC in a high head loop. Great for silence and low head loops tho.

 

[MT Alex]

Yah, I was pulling that out of my ass. They are so close it isn't even funny. I have no experience with the ddc. My 655 was a high flow, low head pump as well. Both move water through my 2 rad, 2 block loop very well.

The pump performs very well compared to the stock DDC 3.2. An average to low restriction system would typically see higher flow rates with the CPX-Pro, and really high restriction systems would see very slightly more performance from the DDC. The important part that catches my attention is the power consumption. At the 2 GPM mark, the DDC is consuming nearly 21 watts, where then DD CPX-Pro is only consuming about 15 watts, so the DDC at that point is consuming about 40% more power which in the end becomes added heat to the loop.

Neat charts:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Danger-Den_CPX-Pro-Pump-Review.html

 

[Wile E]

Not sure where you were going with that post, but that article just basically said they are good for low head and silence, just like I said.

They don't beat the topped DDC's tho.

 

[MT Alex]

That's where I was going. You were right. Neat article, though.

 

[Wile E]

I like all of his articles. Shame he retired.

 

[Sadasius]

Why do the 350/355 pumps need replacement tops, are the stock ones inadequate or something? And the 350 is only $60 on Newegg, hmm...

Just watch the temps on the bottom of those pumps as they get hot and some aftermarket tops leak into the motor. Plus do not forget the history of these pumps burning out which is why I suggested the D5 or the MCP 655 as it is cheaper from Swiftech. If you get the variable one like I pointed out you can turn it down for silence if need be but I have to say they are pretty silent to me on full pin. The 350/355 are awesome when it comes to performance on the top curve but they don't like going the distance. It is why they are cheaper. You don't hear of many D5's burning out because they are designed to run all day every day. I have a few that have been running literally for years 24/7 without a hiccup.

 

[blu3flannel]

Performance PCs has the 655 for a nice price. The only thing is that I use 3/8" barbs and this comes with 1/2". I'm guessing that that's where a custom top comes in, right?

 

[blu3flannel]

And just for the record, here's an mp3 of the sound it makes. The mic doesn't pick it up as well, so imaging the whining sound doubled.

 

[MohawkAngel]

With my car mechanic experience I could say that a worn out pump is always making grinding noise not intermitent. So you have air in your system or some shits are passing between the pump gears. One thing is sure its that in boat case your plastic bushings inside the pump could be worn a little now so next time dismantle the pump and repack it a little with a thin film of silicon based grease. We use this grease for whippers motor on cars. Since its always getting water frrom road or liquid on it. It will help to repair the damage done to plastic and extend the life of your pump.

 

[MohawkAngel]

And just for the record, here's an mp3 of the sound it makes. The mic doesn't pick it up as well, so imaging the whining sound doubled.

Definitivly a bushing that starts to worn out. Maybe the air in the system made it overheat and now theres the result. Do what i told dismantle the system and see if the small bushing could be replaced aftr cleaning the pump. If not then put some thin grease like i told ya.

 

[blu3flannel]

Where would I get a replacement bushing and how would I know which one to get?

 

[MohawkAngel]

First: Dismantle the pump
After you will know what bushing to get You should get it at any electronic stores or hardware stores.

 

[brandonwh64]

The pump was only ran for 3 months or less in my HTPC and i purchased the pump from ebay NIB. I always ran distilled water and never dry. the loop had a T-Line the whole time that was clear so i could monitor water levels. The RES was ran in my main rig for over 6 months and never had a single leak, I also pointed out that maybe USPS may have gotten a little ruff with it. If you want a refund let me know and i can arrange it.

 

[blu3flannel]

Now that that's resolved, I welcome any opinions that may help me out of this tight spot.