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Random lag spikes after new rtx 2080 install

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Hello, recently I did an RMA on a gigabyte RTX 2080 due to a bad fan and my new one came in 2 days ago. After using DDU to uninstall all of my old drivers and install the recent drivers I booted up Call Of Duty Black Ops 4 and everything seemed to be running smoothly until maybe about 2 matches in my fps would shoot down to 50 fps for about 20 seconds before returning to my 144 fps cap. I also noticed that my gpu temps were pretty hot at 84°C. I set a custom fan curve using MSI afterburner and managed to maintain 75-76°. But the problem still persists. I tested this in apex legends as well and my fps wouldn't drop to the extreme like in Bo4 but rather having little skips here and there. But apex isn't as graphically demanding as bo4. I'm only assuming that this is a gpu problem considering i didn't have any of these problems with my other rtx 2080. I've heard that high gpu temps wouldn't cause fps spikes because of overheating but I dont know what else is to blame.
My specs:
Gigabyte RTX 2080
Water cooled Intel core 17-9700k
16gb ram
newly installed CORSAIR RMX 750watt 80+ Gold Certified
Asrock z390 phantom gaming motherboard
 
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RMA it again and tell them you want other brand not gigabyte.
 
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Post exact model of your Gigabyte card so that potential buyers will avoid getting a lemon.
 
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84C is where Nvidia GPUs will throttle down. Not as much as you describe but noticeably. If increasing fan speed brought temperatures down and the problem remains, I would not be sure the problem is with GPU. Could something else cause the problem - are CPU temparatures fine? How does memory usage look?

Run MSI Afterburner monitoring graphs and keep an eye out for anything suspicious - when it comes to GPU throttling, especially power/temp/voltage/no load limits. These will tell you if and which one of the limits gets tripped.
 
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Water cooled CPU, but no mention of fan set up. :rolleyes:
System temps or a screenie of HWMonitor while gaming might help.
 
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Don't accept this card. Should be flawless out of the box and with returned items there is always a risk they fork over a refurb or some sort of failing GPU hoping you won't notice.

Tell them to offer you a non-Gigabyte product as you've lost faith in the brand after two faulty ones, or a full refund including shipping costs. Don't pay for their (potentially) shitty service and products. Yes, the seller too. Two in a row is too often in my book to be coincidental and even if it is, its not your problem :)

Above method increases your chances of getting it replaced with a non-GB card, and maybe with bonus points for them paying shipping at least partially.

EVEN if your system was cooking on the inside, the GPU is supposed to just take off voltage and clock down substantially, which will cause dramatic FPS drops but not spiking/hanging/stuttering. It may do that momentarily but when clocks are adjusted, it should just provide lower FPS. That is GPU boost doing the job as it should. Anything else = problem. And that doesn't even consider the fact that its ridiculous a full blown desktop card runs into throttling all the time.
 

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Water cooled CPU, but no mention of fan set up. :rolleyes:
System temps or a screenie of HWMonitor while gaming might help.
Sorry I wasn't at the house and forgot what brand I bought. Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 280mm - All-In-One RGB CPU Liquid Cooler - CAM-Powered - Infinity Mirror Design - Performance Engineered Pump - Reinforced Extended Tubing - Aer P140mm Radiator Fan. My cpu stays 43-47°. Im also at work and cant post a screenie of my msi afterburner osd

84C is where Nvidia GPUs will throttle down. Not as much as you describe but noticeably. If increasing fan speed brought temperatures down and the problem remains, I would not be sure the problem is with GPU. Could something else cause the problem - are CPU temparatures fine? How does memory usage look?

Run MSI Afterburner monitoring graphs and keep an eye out for anything suspicious - when it comes to GPU throttling, especially power/temp/voltage/no load limits. These will tell you if and which one of the limits gets tripped.
My cpu stays in the mid 40s and I ran msi afterburner and everything looked fine. My gpu had about 90-98% usage and my cpu around 60 or 70% usage. I don't know what else it could be because again I didn't have this problem 2 weeks ago with the same card.

Post exact model of your Gigabyte card so that potential buyers will avoid getting a lemon.
GIGABYTE WINDFORCE 8G Geforce RTX 2080

Don't accept this card. Should be flawless out of the box and with returned items there is always a risk they fork over a refurb or some sort of failing GPU hoping you won't notice.

Tell them to offer you a non-Gigabyte product as you've lost faith in the brand after two faulty ones, or a full refund including shipping costs. Don't pay for their (potentially) shitty service and products. Yes, the seller too. Two in a row is too often in my book to be coincidental and even if it is, its not your problem :)

Above method increases your chances of getting it replaced with a non-GB card, and maybe with bonus points for them paying shipping at least partially.

EVEN if your system was cooking on the inside, the GPU is supposed to just take off voltage and clock down substantially, which will cause dramatic FPS drops but not spiking/hanging/stuttering. It may do that momentarily but when clocks are adjusted, it should just provide lower FPS. That is GPU boost doing the job as it should. Anything else = problem. And that doesn't even consider the fact that its ridiculous a full blown desktop card runs into throttling all the time.
The first time I requested a different brand they snapped at me on the phone and said they wouldnt sell defective cards if it would cost them money. Real douche bag.
 

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Due to alot of peoples replies on different forums I decided to buy an MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 8GB GDRR6 256-bit VR Ready Graphics Card (RTX 2080 GAMING X TRIO) today. I'll keep everyone posted if the problem is still there.
 
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Gigabyte is infamous for their after sales / RMA department.
 

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Update: The first MSI RTX 2080 i bought at best buy was also defective straight out of the box. Both my monitors said no signal. I returned it and had them confirm that it was indeed defective and couldn't get it to work. Go figure 3 gpus in a row!!:laugh: my luck with computer parts are trash! Thankfully they had one more left in stock so I snagged it and installed it in my pc and managed to get both monitors up and running. I opened up my MSI OSD and launched Bo4 and after one match my temps didn't go past 60°c! So buyers beware of the GIGABYTE WINDFORCE 8G Geforce RTX 2080. Thank you to everyone who told me it was more than likely another dud.
 
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GIGABYTE coolers suck and should be avoided!

A buddy and I had 10 RX 480s from them ... they all ran in the 70s at 100% fan speed, underclocked and undervolted. The eight STRIX cards struggled to get above 43c at the same settings.
 
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Update: The first MSI RTX 2080 i bought at best buy was also defective straight out of the box. Both my monitors said no signal. I returned it and had them confirm that it was indeed defective and couldn't get it to work. Go figure 3 gpus in a row!!:laugh: my luck with computer parts are trash! Thankfully they had one more left in stock so I snagged it and installed it in my pc and managed to get both monitors up and running. I opened up my MSI OSD and launched Bo4 and after one match my temps didn't go past 60°c! So buyers beware of the GIGABYTE WINDFORCE 8G Geforce RTX 2080. Thank you to everyone who told me it was more than likely another dud.

Wow. That is something else man. So I guess 4 times was the charm for you... Glad it worked out!
 
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It sounds like you should also avoid that store.
 

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It sounds like you should also avoid that store.
Well I got my gigabyte cards online and had to wait two weeks. At best buy their return policies are pretty good and easy in my opinion.
 
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best buy will price match newegg and newegg keeps up with amazons prices. ends up being better if replacing a card because you actually end up seeing the new card come right off the shelf and handed to you at the checkout. with an online sale, they just send you a refurbished card most times and half the time it ends up working out. my local best buy will even match prices for items they need to order to the store if you go in and show them what it is you want. its once of the ways they have managed to survive so long.

i obviously like to make bigger purchases in store so that i can take it back immediately if i find a problem.
 

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best buy will price match newegg and newegg keeps up with amazons prices. ends up being better if replacing a card because you actually end up seeing the new card come right off the shelf and handed to you at the checkout. with an online sale, they just send you a refurbished card most times and half the time it ends up working out. my local best buy will even match prices for items they need to order to the store if you go in and show them what it is you want. its once of the ways they have managed to survive so long.

i obviously like to make bigger purchases in store so that i can take it back immediately if i find a problem.
Exactly, I know alot of people hate best buy but I find it to be a pretty good store to buy pc parts/peripherals. And they always seem to be kind to swap out bad parts. At least the best buy in my area.
 
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1. Have you tried comparing your cards temps, power usage, OC settings etc against any published articles.



In a moderate climate at clock settings most 2080s should be under 70C. Thermal throttling has not been an issue as TPU has tested 2080s at 84C with no problem....power throttling is not uncommon.


Temperatures are pretty high despite the massive cooler, due to the uncapped power limit. Given these constraints and the noise levels, I'd say Zotac did the right thing by accepting higher temperatures. Otherwise, the card would be too noisy.
2. Using the following 'rule of thumb" do you have...

a) One 120mm (1250ish rpm) for every 50-75 watts of componentry or one 140mm (1250ish) fan for every 75 - 100 watts
b) More intakes than exhaust (1.3 - 1.5 times)

3. By "fan setup", w emean all the fans in your case. A common cause of case overheating is installing CLC fans with fans blowing in exhaust. If you have more fans blowing out (actually concerns is more air but assuming here all fans same) than in, or even the same because or air inlet filter restrictions, then you have created a negatoive pressure situation. Ypu probably heard about dusy being an issue here v=but that's the least of the concerns. If the case is in th emiddl of the room and the room has good air circulation, then it wouldn't be much of an issue. But the reality is cases are often place under desks or up against the wall on top of a desk. In this case, the hot air exhaust from PSU and GFX card is getting sucked right back into the case ... and in trying to cool your 90 - 125 watt CPU, you are using air preheated by the 850 watt PSU and 300 watt GFX card.

122975


I have not heard about any specific brands causing problems outside of EVGA Black .... as you can see, the Gigabyte OC 2080 tested here at TPU and Guru3D tested fine with temps of 69C when OC'd. Not sure what model you have.... again, the 84C Zotac was not misbehaving inTPUs test. If looking for another brand, here's a summary of TPUs test results. For me, the 0 dbA idle noise is a big factor ... as for temps, I don't much care as long as it's under 80. So far the favorite 2080 / 2080 Ti among our users has been the Gaming Trio ... not in stock everywhere and often carries a price premium

122976
 

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1. Have you tried comparing your cards temps, power usage, OC settings etc against any published articles.



In a moderate climate at clock settings most 2080s should be under 70C. Thermal throttling has not been an issue as TPU has tested 2080s at 84C with no problem....power throttling is not uncommon.




2. Using the following 'rule of thumb" do you have...

a) One 120mm (1250ish rpm) for every 50-75 watts of componentry or one 140mm (1250ish) fan for every 75 - 100 watts
b) More intakes than exhaust (1.3 - 1.5 times)

3. By "fan setup", w emean all the fans in your case. A common cause of case overheating is installing CLC fans with fans blowing in exhaust. If you have more fans blowing out (actually concerns is more air but assuming here all fans same) than in, or even the same because or air inlet filter restrictions, then you have created a negatoive pressure situation. Ypu probably heard about dusy being an issue here v=but that's the least of the concerns. If the case is in th emiddl of the room and the room has good air circulation, then it wouldn't be much of an issue. But the reality is cases are often place under desks or up against the wall on top of a desk. In this case, the hot air exhaust from PSU and GFX card is getting sucked right back into the case ... and in trying to cool your 90 - 125 watt CPU, you are using air preheated by the 850 watt PSU and 300 watt GFX card.

View attachment 122975

I have not heard about any specific brands causing problems outside of EVGA Black .... as you can see, the Gigabyte OC 2080 tested here at TPU and Guru3D tested fine with temps of 69C when OC'd. Not sure what model you have.... again, the 84C Zotac was not misbehaving inTPUs test. If looking for another brand, here's a summary of TPUs test results. For me, the 0 dbA idle noise is a big factor ... as for temps, I don't much care as long as it's under 80. So far the favorite 2080 / 2080 Ti among our users has been the Gaming Trio ... not in stock everywhere and often carries a price premium

View attachment 122976
Alot to take in there I'll fully read and click your links when im back at the house. But I will say the first gigabyte rtx 2080 card I got was perfect averaging a pretty cool temp somewhere in the 70s if I remember correctly. A few months into using the card one of the fans slowed down and had a really loud rattle to it. I'm pretty sure I have good air flow in my case it's sitting up on my desk as well. The temps with my new gigabyte card were around 80-85. Sitting at 75-80 with the side panel off and just sitting in the menu screen. I played bo4 for 2 hours last night and didn't get that extreme fps drop and my gpu temp stayed in the 60s without overclocking or setting a custom fan curve. I'm not sure if this is related to what you posted because as I said I can't fully read what you typed right now but I'll definitely thoroughly read through it.

Well everything was going smoothly... Any ideas? I don't know why the quality is so bad but it says "What failed: dxgmms2.sys"
 

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Alot to take in there I'll fully read and click your links when im back at the house. But I will say the first gigabyte rtx 2080 card I got was perfect averaging a pretty cool temp somewhere in the 70s if I remember correctly. A few months into using the card one of the fans slowed down and had a really loud rattle to it. I'm pretty sure I have good air flow in my case it's sitting up on my desk as well. The temps with my new gigabyte card were around 80-85. Sitting at 75-80 with the side panel off and just sitting in the menu screen. I played bo4 for 2 hours last night and didn't get that extreme fps drop and my gpu temp stayed in the 60s without overclocking or setting a custom fan curve. I'm not sure if this is related to what you posted because as I said I can't fully read what you typed right now but I'll definitely thoroughly read through it.

Well everything was going smoothly... Any ideas? I don't know why the quality is so bad but it says "What failed: dxgmms2.sys"
Are you saying this is GPU No4 you now have an issue with?

Reinstall Windows on a different drive and try a new PSU I don't care how unlucky you are unless that store is stocking bad GPU's there is no way you have 4 defective 2080's in a row that were supposedly brand new.

Also where do you live? do you have good electrical wiring/grounding to your home? do you have a UPS and power surge protection, like I said something is not right.

Failing all of that next port of call would be your motherboard, but like I said, 1-2GPU's DOA/faulty ok.... 3???? well certainly posssible I guess, now number 4? nope sorry, not buying it something else is at play here.
 
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Are you saying this is GPU No4 you now have an issue with?

Reinstall Windows on a different drive and try a new PSU I don't care how unlucky you are unless that store is stocking bad GPU's there is no way you have 4 defective 2080's in a row that were supposedly brand new.

Also where do you live? do you have good electrical wiring/grounding to your home? do you have a UPS and power surge protection, like I said something is not right.

Failing all of that next port of call would be your motherboard, but like I said, 1-2GPU's DOA/faulty ok.... 3???? well certainly posssible I guess, now number 4? nope sorry, not buying it something else is at play here.
I have good electrical wiring as well as a surge protector. I just installed a brand new corsair 750 watt 80+ gold psu. I don't think this card is deffective though this happened randomly in the middle of a match and hasn't happened again yet. I did another clean install of the latest drivers when I restarted my pc though.
 
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Update SSD firmware if available, reboot. Reinstall Windows. Download the latest chipset drivers from the motherboard mfr page install and reboot, download newest Nvidia drivers, install and reboot, update Windows reboot. Do you have office installed? some talk of an office update required with this specific BSOD here: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance/fix-for-systemserviceexception-dxgmms2sys-bsod/fb59863d-331d-4e13-afd0-8ae538b1a472?page=2
Thanks for the suggestions if i get this BSOD again I'll try all these. I doubt it but reinstalling my graphics drivers may have fixed it. I'll let you know what works
 
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Please stop spreading this misinformation, you clearly misunderstand the directions given in them.
You make a claim of misinformation by presenting 0 information of your own to counter the statement. I have an open mind but you have provided no support by which one can evaluate or modify one's understanding. What is in any way ambiguous in this statement ?

"For the best cooling performance, we recommend mounting the fans as an air-intake into your PC."

What word am I misunderstanding ? In our testing, which was done at varying case fan rpms, the displayed temperature sensor for the coolant was pretty consistently around 33C ... at a given rpm, the ambient air sensor would be say 23.1C and the interior case air sensor would read 26.7 C. Do the math ... what cools better 23.1C or 26.7. Simple math says:

Delta T => Ambient = 33.0 - 23.1 = 9.9 C
Delta T => Inside Air = 33.0 - 26.7 = 6.3 C

Ambient therefore cools 1.57 times (9.9 / 6.3) as well as interior case air ... the only way to change that is to somehow get interior case air < ambient. The mathematics is unassailable. How are you able to accomplish getting air inside the case that is cooler than ambient ?

That's Corsair's published recommendation; it's in their manual. You could maybe write to them and tell them they have no idea how their products work. If you want to discuss the point, published sources and links please. There's not much ambiguity in the statement ..... no way for a layman to misunderstand let alone someone who taught college level fluids and thermodynamic, has been practicing in the field for 42 years (licensed PE in 3 states), has served as an expert witness in over 50 court cases and has been building PCs since the early 90s. But I'm still listening ... if you have some facts, published test results contradicting Corsair and our own measurements, I'm anxious to see them. But how is it that you better understand how Corsair products work than the people who design, manufacturer and support those same products ? Why did they make this statement if it's not true ? Why has no one told them they are wrong in all these years ?

What equipment was used in your test rig that was responsible for your current understanding ? We use 6 thermal sensors accurate to 0.1C (4 coolant / 2 air), a 6 channel LCD temperature readout and a fog machine.

If you have actual data or published sources contradicting the manufacturer's and our our own rest results, I'm most interested in reading them. I like to say, "no one is ever wrong, someone has been misinformed". If I have been misinformed, please provide contradictory information so we can re-evaluate our position. What is the source of your information ? If you are going to just say "you don't understand", I don't have anything to look at which would change our view on the matter.

Last night I watched Professor Dave present his arguments on the Flat versus Round Earth theories on Youtube (Response to Globebusters - The Earth Still Isn't Flat) and in response to Professor Dave's statements, the Globebusters provided no applicable experiments or test results, they just would laugh and answer "Dave, you clearly don't understand the science involved". As that was the entire basis of their rebuttal, I don't see any minds being changed.

Now while the flat earth stuff is ridiculous, I am not saying your position is ridiculous. I understand why many folks draw the same conclusion. We all learned in 8th grade earth science that hot air rises and in the absence of other factors it does ... very slowly. So I do understand the mindset. But there's that huge other factors thing. Sit under a ceiling fan at the kitchen table and light a candle, you are not going to see smoke rise. I'd be happy to have an ongoing discussion of the science involved but that conversation can noto happen w/o something meatier than "John, you clearly don't understand the science involved".
 
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