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Ryzen 3600x temperature

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Great post man. Thank you. :respect:

About undervolting through negative offset. I already did it remembering that this is how I undervolt my former Sandy with a great success.
But this CPU baffles me. I've tried to set Vcore offset from AsRock A-Tuning utility from Windows. It has 2 steps, -0.05V and -0.1V
This is stock under prime95 SmallFFTs.
load_stock.jpg
This is undervolting with -0.05V offset
load_005.jpg
And this is undervolting with -0.1V offset
load_01.jpg

Temps are dropping indeed with 4°C per step but my also my CPU frequency and PPT/TDC/EDC are dropping. A lot. :eek:
Whats's going on here? :kookoo:

Thanks for any light shed for me.
 
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Better way to see what is happening and if you are loosing performance is to run a benchmark with some score like Cinebench or any other.
Dont look current effective clock, this could be confusing.
Even though you undervolt I see that last 2 screenshots Core VID for each core is up and PPT/TDC/EDC (last column=avg) is up also...
Run for a score with those 3 settings (minimum 2 times per set) and we'll see next...
 
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Even though you undervolt I see that last 2 screenshots Core VID for each core is up and PPT/TDC/EDC (last column=avg) is up also...
That's because I didn't stop/start HWInfo64 between testing. It's the same window for all. I wanted to see in realtime what's happening between changing offset.

OK, now Cinebench R20 2 runs/settings.
Stock: 3732/3730
-0.05V: 3684/3662
-0.1V: 3120/3107

So it looks like indeed CPU frequency is dropping.
 
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@burebista the issue here is still ventilation. If the only fan in your case is that included OEM 120mm exhaust fan, you're in for a bad time. Even if you had removed all of the drive cages and installed extra 120mms up front, that's still one hell of a restrictive front panel for any fan to pull decent airflow through. Have you tried testing with the side panel off to see how much a difference there is? Is the PC itself crowded by other objects nearby?

Any undervolting should always be done in BIOS. 0.05V is way too big a jump. -0.05V is the kind of undervolt I end up on, not the steps I take to get there. BIOS should have dynamic voltage offset control more along the lines of 0.005-0.00625V increments. Always adjust Vcore in the smallest increments possible, and test extensively for stability before changing it further.

It's a little hard to directly compare, because your 3600X is a 105W part and draws about 10-15W more than the 65W parts here. Even so, there are 3900Xs on that same D15 running appreciably cooler.

It would be much appreciated if you could provide your SVI2 TFN Vcore reading during Cinebench, and the clockspeeds you sustain during the test to get a gauge for whether you actually need to undervolt. From a general look at your voltage ranges, it doesn't seem like your chip is overvolted much. Again, it still comes down to airflow, but it helps to know exactly what voltage your chip is using to attain a particular all-core clockspeed.

How are your case fan and 140mms on the D15 being controlled? Are they all PWM/voltage or are they being run at fixed speeds? What is the temperature control for the case fan bound to, a system temp sensor, PCH or VRM temp? Are they set on a normal profile or a "silent" one that reduces PWM speed?
 
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Guys a question about CPU temperature.
Coming back to AMD after many years of Intel and today I've put together 3600x, Asrock B450 Pro4, HyperX Predator Black 16GB DDR4 3200MHz CL16 and Noctua NH-D15. Windows 10 November, updated, latest AMD chipset drivers.

But I'm puzzled about CPU temperatures. Just writing here in forums and it's jumping from 43-61°C.



Playing a game and hits 78°C.
Running 5 minutes prime95 Small FFts hitting 84°C.

Cooler is fine. I've even dismounted it and mount it again. Basically no difference. And fins are mildly hot so it's doing his job I guess. I even run 1usmus Custom Power Plan but same temps.

So I want to know if it's something wrong or those are usual temps for Ryzen on air cooling.

Thanks.
Hey man I have a Ryzen 5 3600 oc to 4.2 ghz all cores, 1.3 v and I can tell you it's not the cooler chip I've ever seen. I have an arctic freezer 33 esport cooler, the one with only one fan.
In game it sits around 60-65 C, but when stressed with prime95 it can reach almost 90C (part of the problem is the bad airflow of my case)
Your model has a higher TDP and even when mine was stock had pretty hot temperatures, so it's fine.
 
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That's because I didn't stop/start HWInfo64 between testing. It's the same window for all. I wanted to see in realtime what's happening between changing offset.

OK, now Cinebench R20 2 runs/settings.
Stock: 3732/3730
-0.05V: 3684/3662
-0.1V: 3120/3107

So it looks like indeed CPU frequency is dropping.
Ok, the truth is that -0.05~0.1V is a lot of voltage missing. If you want to test undervoltage you should try it from BIOS/UEFI with much smaller steps.
Windows is not the place for this kind of tweaking.

Alternatively leave offset auto and voltage on auto and set PBO in manual or advaned mode like this:

PPT: 0
TDC: 0
EDC: 65A or less
Scalar: auto

This wil cap the Current of CPU (topping now at 70~71A) and may give you a little more clock with ~same temp.
And whatever you do to improve cooling will help further.
 
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@tabascosauz. About my case airflow. Upper HDD cage is removed and I have 2 Noctua NF-P12-1300 (intake and exhaust). All fans (cooler included) are custom PWM controlled in BIOS with CPU temperature as target.
Basically it's something like this, until CPU temp 60°C all fans are set at 60% RPM. When CPU hits 80°C the all fans are 100% RPM.
Now after I've added that intake fan and put cooler fan in the right direction I'm pretty happy with temps. 30-35°C in idle (with occasional jumps to 45-50°C ) and 65°C during gaming (with occasional jumps to 70-72°C ).

Below is HWInfo during Cinebech run.
CB20.jpg

I won't mind if I can undervolt a little. I have this underclock/undervolt/silent stuff inside me for too long. :oops:

@WatEagle. Thank you man, I'm relaxed now knowing that this is how Ryzen works. :)

@Zach_01. Thanks again man. I have in plan to add another Noctua NF-F12 PWM on cooler but I have to buy it and to figure how to made some decent spring clips to hold the fan in place.
 
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@burebista that's some much improved airflow. I see you're going for a quiet fan curve, and things look about right there. 67c in R20 is probably where I'd expect a D15 to be.

I actually pull the exact same Vcore (~1.337V) and clocks (41.3x) in R20, just with 2 more cores and slightly less wattage. That's on stock voltage, 2x PBO and a -7A EDC adjustment. In R20, I usually hit about 74c.

I can go down to a -0.075V offset losing only about ~15-40pts in R20. Improves thermals and noise a fair bit on my U9S. It doesn't look like you'll have quite as much room, but you can go down to say -0.05V and try more aggressive LLC to compensate for Vdroop. Just don't ever use any LLC except for Auto when you're reducing EDC, they go against each other; lowering EDC from stock should be done with stock Vcore and auto LLC.

Try P95 Small and Smallest again. Small shouldn't be running hot at all, multiplier appears to be capped and generally runs cooler with lower clocks and much lower Vcore (1.212V) than even R20. Smallest runs hotter, but not by much. P95 on Ryzen 3000 is a little different than what we're used to on Intel with it literally melting Haswell chips.
 
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I don't find LLC in BIOS. Probably because this (found it on net) : From my knowledge this board has an Intersil ISL95712 voltage controller which does not support programmable LLC.

Anyway, the fan arrived today and this is how final setup looks.

final fans.jpg

Did another CB run, room temperature same 22°C

CB_final.jpg

1°C up since last run lol. :kookoo:
But after 5 minutes of prime95 Small FFTs 1°C less compared to previous run.
Both results are in the margin of error though but it looks like second fan is useless.

Anyway I'm happy now, temps looks in line with others. I'll let Ryzen alone to do it's job.

Thanks very much all of you guys for your advice/thoughts/opinions. :toast:
 
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are there top mounted fans in that case? if not, mod them in! Maybe even a drive bay intake fan mod.
 
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Yes, I have a place for a top fan but it's closed with Nexus DampTeck. I'm a silent fan, you know...:oops:

My God, with Ryzen all my silent tricks are gone lol.

OK, moved second fan on top of the case as exhaust, run CB and basically same temperatures.

cb_4fans.jpg

So for my setup this fan is useless. Useless on CPU, useless as second exhaust fan but I'll leave it there on top on low RPM.

I'm done now. I'll enjoy my rig and let CPU make his job.
Thanks again all of you for help. :toast:
 
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Just my 2c to add for I have the same 3600X cpu, and my case is a NZXT H510i, with 2 fans in the front, on on top, and the stock in the rear, and using the NZXT cam software set to performance for all fans, with a upHere CCF150ARGB, and Artic MX-4 2019 edition, its idle is 50-52c, and at load is 63-67c. So I wouldnt worry too much about it for the cpu is normal all the way up to 90c according to AMD's website for I thought the same thing ;)

Only thing I could add more to it, is if it is going like 50-70 all over the place at idle just web surfing, the heatsink, and or paste isnt set right and may want to try to redo it, and if using the coolers thermal pad built on oem, ditch it right away and get a good quality paste and retry. It should fluctuate but if its a massive amount just surfing, I have found doing pcs for over 25 years I fudged up setting the paste or heatsink right and pulling off and redoing it, with the correct amount, fixes it, but temps should be steady within 3-5 if just surfing the net.
 

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Looking at it it sounds about right

I'm running a 3600 Non X at 4.25GHz all core and while gaming its around 65C but in prime95 SmallFFTs it hitd 83C and hovers up and down around 85C max.

Thermal limit is 95C so still 10 degrees from the limit
 
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The CPU has more than temp limit. While under and far away from thermal throttle limit, temperature alone means absolutely nothing if other aspects of CPU have exceed limits. Temp is used by the silicon manager to regulate clock and voltage during loads. Having a static OC the manager is canceled and the CPU its under the user's mercy...
Just FYI...
 
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A question for my curiosity.
I have only one game installed, Chernobylite. Playing it at fullHD all High graphic options. Runs smooth like silk without problems but I wanted to monitor it a little so I "borrowed" some sensors from HWInfo (CPU0-5 Effective clock and usage), Vcore and CPU (Tctl/Tdie) and put them in MSI Afterburner (remaining sensors are from Afterburner).
This is how it looks (more or less) during gameplay.
chernobylite load.jpg

And TBH I'm pretty shocked about cores frequency and load.
This is real lol? :kookoo:
 
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If you took effective clock values then yes...

Look at mine after 2+ hours of FarCry 5.
See the Max and Average column values of
1. Core 0-5 Clock perf #
2. Core 0-5 T0/1 effective Clock
3. Core 0-5 T0/1 usage

HWiNFO_18_01_2020_FarCry5.png


Effective Clock contains the active(C0) and sleeping(C1/6) states of the cores.
Look below CoreRatio the C0 and C1/6 Residency
C0 percentage is how active the core is and the more % the more active it is.
C1 percentage is sleeping core state and the more % the more in sleep it is
C6 percentage is deep sleeping core state and the more % the more in deep sleep it is

For this C-state residency the actual valueble column is the last (average).
 
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Great stuff man. As always. :respect:
I'm a little bit puzzled now. What to monitor during games, Core Clock or Core Effective Clock? :confused:
I guess Effective clock is the real frequency.

Damn, I forgot everything about AMD. And on top of that Matisse is different. :banghead:
 
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This stuff is new... Old AMD chips don’t have that info and monitoring tools didn’t have this kind of reporting.

From HWiNFO author:

I would monitor Core Clock Perf#. The current value or the average.
 
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Thank you again. Core Clock Perf# will be then.
 
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I have that same Antec case. Great case that. Not the best for cable management or AIO coolers but a classic case with a great design. I have an Intel Core i7 3930K in that case.

I’ve been experiencing similar temps with my AMD R9 3950X / ASRock X570 Taichi build in a Zulman MS800 case using a CoolerMaster Master Liquid 240mm AIO. Like you I resisted installing front intake fans but I’ll remedy this with 3x front HDD backplane cages with 120mm fans each (no drives installed).

Windows idle temps were about ~35c
gaming temps were about ~55c
load temps were tough to say because I stopped the stress test when it started to hit ~80c

I switched / swapped the fan headers of the pump and Radiator fans. This dropped the BIOS temps readings although I don’t remember by how much. Then set in BIOS pump mode for the pump and full speed for the fans (as a test).

Windows idle temps then went down to about ~30c
gaming temps went down to about ~50c +
load temps were about ~75c although it took some time to ramp up to that. 75c isn’t a stable fixed max though. It more or less hovers around ~75c but from there it will drop a few degrees and spike a few too. So it will drop to about ~73c briefly and it will spike to ~79c or 80c briefly too. Usually its fluctuating in the 70’s most of the time (maybe ~90% of the time). If it spikes ~80c or ~82c it’s infrequent and brief, it doesn’t just sit there.

This is using Handbrake and all cores are usually around 4GHz. I suspect Prime95 would be even more stressfu.

Generally I’m OK with this. Like you it took me a little time and a little research to come to the understanding that this is normal.

Naturally I would prefer lower temps But I don’t think it’s worth buying a 360mm AIO or a 280mm AIO in pursuit of a temp drops of a few degrees.
 
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Thank you man, really appreciate. :toast:
TBH now I'm perfect fine with my temps.

But now I have another question. I'm not an overclocker (quite opposite I'd say) but I want maximum from my rig even stock. So today I've read this post by Chrispy_ and suddenly I'm interested. Messing with RAM seems doable if you know what are you doing. :D
So this is my RAM
RAM.png

And this is DRAM Calculator (didn't find Hynix J-Die so I choose Hynix CJR) Safe values 3600.
DRAM calculator.png

Can I test them from Windows somehow or I must fill this endless BIOS pages? :eek:
BIOS-MEM.jpg

Also CJR is not J-Die so can I trust those values? :confused:

Any advice is appreciate like always.
 
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I broke a fundamental rule with my RAM configuration. I used two different G.Skill RAM kits of different speed. One kit is DDR4-3200 and the other is DDR4-3600.

I installed the 3200 kit first which defaulted to DDR4-2400 as expected. I then used the XMP setting in BIOS which set it to 3200. Finally I added the DDR4-3600 kit and all was sailing along at DDR4-3200.

I'd say just look in the BIOS for XMP and set that. It looks like you've got a DDR4-3200 kit given the part number KHX3200C16D4/8GX.
 
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Looking at it it sounds about right

I'm running a 3600 Non X at 4.25GHz all core and while gaming its around 65C but in prime95 SmallFFTs it hitd 83C and hovers up and down around 85C max.

Thermal limit is 95C so still 10 degrees from the limit
Same for me in manual all-core OC (4250/4225, CCX0/1, 1.325V, LLC3). Idle is around 30C and I think it drops voltage while being idle (judging by Ryzen Master, around 0.5-0.7V). Frequencies/watts also drop quite a lot.

AMD says idle downclocking is not supported in manual OC, is it true?

 

Durvelle27

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Same for me in manual all-core OC (4250/4225, CCX0/1, 1.325V, LLC3). Idle is around 30C and I think it drops voltage while being idle (judging by Ryzen Master, around 0.5-0.7V). Frequencies/watts also drop quite a lot.

AMD says idle downclocking is not supported in manual OC, is it true?

Not going to say if its true or not but i know mine indeed doesn't downclock with manual OC
 
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