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Ryzen 5 3600 turbo speeds

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All ClockTuner did was shove 1.55v down my CPU's throat then have the audacity to run a light AVX test. Never gonna use anything made by 1usmus again.

LOL it did the same and I'm with you 110% about that software. Really not worth tinkering with the 3600 unless you are playing to kill it outright.
 

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I don't see 1.37V set, and how would this again, be representative of the long term and all CPUs?
 
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Unless I'm missing something, nothing about OCing is mentioned and the description says the CPU is running on stock (as it should).

wrong clip LOL, fixed
 
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Thanks for helping so much. :)

I loved my 3100 to bits for being so economical. Maybe I'll just dig it out of my drawer, pop it back into the mobo and call it a day. :D I'm sure it would be plenty powerful for the low profile GTX 1650 I bought for it.

Speaking of cases, I bought this one originally for a HTPC, but I thought why not use it as my main PC as it has a huge grate on its side for CPU air intake. It always had the 3100 running around 45-50 degrees with the tiny Wraith Stealth even at full load. Maybe that grate doesn't help with the 3600 as much as I thought.

Other thing: I managed to find the PPT setting in the BIOS. With it set to 65 W, PBO enabled, the CPU runs at the low 70s under a Cinebench run. Weird thing that now HWinfo reports clocks between 4-4.1 GHz, while Windows Task Manager got stuck at 3.6 GHz. Idle clock reporting is also all over the place.

The side vents are good for downdraft coolers like the L9x65/Shadow Rock LP/L12/L12S/Dark Rock TF/C14S. It's just that you can't rely on the CPU cooler alone for airflow in SFF. When I chose the 5.3L HT5 for my Renoir HTPC I specifically wanted it for the ability to run the 2 x 80mm Noctuas to exhaust air in the immediate vicinity of the CPU and RAM. Technically, I could have gone with a Velka 3RL or similar but I'd just be hotboxing the Bdie.

Partly because B-die is temp sensitive at low tRFC, but also because downdraft coolers just dump hot air into the case in all directions. They need either convection + very unrestrictive venting, or fans to help extract that hot air from the case, or both or perform optimally. If the case has plenty of intake venting for the downdraft cooler but little provision for fan or natural exhaust, temps are really going to climb in there. And that's not helping your CPU, GPU or RAM.

HWInfo's Effective Clock metric is all you should care about when under meaningful CPU load. That, or run Snapshot Polling on and use the regular CPU clock numbers. Task manager is trying to be too many things it's not these days.
 

_L_

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wrong clip LOL, fixed
And yet, it's nowhere near representative of anything even remotely long-term and still no citation that this is safe over an extensive period of time, it's also ignoring the fact that all-core loads exist and the CPU can process things in the background (antivirus scans) or similar things....
 
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And yet, it's nowhere near representative of anything even remotely long-term and still no citation that this is safe over an extensive period of time, it's also ignoring the fact that all-core loads exist and the CPU can process things in the background (antivirus scans) or similar things....

Truth is no one knows LOL, that includes you. That's the reason why Der8auer set out to find out.
So don't talk like it's set in stone what the safe voltages are when all you have are anecdotal evidences.
 
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The side vents are good for downdraft coolers like the L9x65/Shadow Rock LP/L12/L12S/Dark Rock TF/C14S. It's just that you can't rely on the CPU cooler alone for airflow in SFF. When I chose the 5.3L HT5 for my Renoir HTPC I specifically wanted it for the ability to run the 2 x 80mm Noctuas to exhaust air in the immediate vicinity of the CPU and RAM. Technically, I could have gone with a Velka 3RL or similar but I'd just be hotboxing the Bdie.

Partly because B-die is temp sensitive at low tRFC, but also because downdraft coolers just dump hot air into the case in all directions. They need either convection + very unrestrictive venting, or fans to help extract that hot air from the case, or both or perform optimally. If the case has plenty of intake venting for the downdraft cooler but little provision for fan or natural exhaust, temps are really going to climb in there. And that's not helping your CPU, GPU or RAM.

HWInfo's Effective Clock metric is all you should care about when under meaningful CPU load. That, or run Snapshot Polling on and use the regular CPU clock numbers. Task manager is trying to be too many things it's not these days.
I have an 80 mm fan just above the CPU cooler acting as exhaust. It's doing something, but not enough, I guess. With the side of the case taken off, PBO enabled and PPT auto (~80 W power consumption), I get 76-77 C in Cinebench.

Honestly, I'm quite disappointed in the 3600 so far. If I knew that the difference in heat output compared to the 3100 would be so huge, I wouldn't have bought it.
 

_L_

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That's the reason why Der8auer set out to find out.
On 3 CPUs, lol... how delusional are you going to be?
So don't talk like it's set in stone what the safe voltages are when all you have are anecdotal evidences.
On a lot more than just "4" CPUs, there's literally plenty of evidence and all you have is puny deflections or completely missing the point and absolutely zero testing to prove.
 
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Truth is no one knows LOL, that includes you. That's the reason why Der8auer set out to find out.
So don't talk like it's set in stone what the safe voltages are when all you have are anecdotal evidences.
I'm willing to pay for that chip when it eventually dies, it's gonna be a nice addition to my keychain collection. Right next to it will be my friends' 3600 which he killed using the same amount of ludicrous voltage combined with not listening to me, in a matter of months.
 
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I'm willing to pay for that chip when it eventually dies, it's gonna be a nice addition to my keychain collection. Right next to it will be my friends' 3600 which he killed using the same amount of ludicrous voltage combined with not listening to me, in a matter of months.

Sure, let see how long it lasts LOL.
 
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I have an 80 mm fan just above the CPU cooler acting as exhaust. It's doing something, but not enough, I guess. With the side of the case taken off, PBO enabled and PPT auto (~80 W power consumption), I get 76-77 C in Cinebench.

Honestly, I'm quite disappointed in the 3600 so far. If I knew that the difference in heat output compared to the 3100 would be so huge, I wouldn't have bought it.
What is the PowerReportingDaviation (PRD) and PPT during (and only during) that Cinebench run?
 
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What is the PowerReportingDaviation (PRD) and PPT during (and only during) that Cinebench run?
PRD is 88-89% and PPT is 80 W.
 

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Just a dumb question, did you remove the plastic from the bottom of the cooler? What are the fan curves set at? Is there air going into the case? If possible a picture would help.
 
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I have an 80 mm fan just above the CPU cooler acting as exhaust. It's doing something, but not enough, I guess. With the side of the case taken off, PBO enabled and PPT auto (~80 W power consumption), I get 76-77 C in Cinebench.

Honestly, I'm quite disappointed in the 3600 so far. If I knew that the difference in heat output compared to the 3100 would be so huge, I wouldn't have bought it.
I really cannot see why you're having issues. My ITX case has the usual push / pull config and works fine. 2 x 120mm Corsair fans at the front and one at the rear + the one on the cooler. The possible only difference to yours is I have the rear lid off to dispurse heat from my M.2 drive that's attached to the back of my mobo (Do you have an M.2 drive on the rear of your mobo without a heat sink?)

I'm asking because after leaving the rear lid on my case with the M.2 drive, seeing temps rise to chicken cooking level, then removing the rear panel and watching temps drop significantly, is what might be your problem here.
 
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Just a dumb question, did you remove the plastic from the bottom of the cooler? What are the fan curves set at? Is there air going into the case? If possible a picture would help.
I did the most recent test with the case open. My cooler came with thermal paste pre-installed, there was no plastic aside from the cover to protect the TIM. Fan curves on BIOS standard.

I really cannot see why you're having issues. My ITX case has the usual push / pull config and works fine. 2 x 120mm Corsair fans at the front and one at the rear + the one on the cooler. The possible only difference to yours is I have the rear lid off to dispurse heat from my M.2 drive that's attached to the back of my mobo (Do you have an M.2 drive on the rear of your mobo without a heat sink?)
It puzzles me too. The Shadow Rock LP should dissipate 80 W of heat without any issue. I have no m.2 drive on the rear.

Edit: I'll try with Arctic MX-4 thermal paste tomorrow, but I don't expect much change. If nothing happens, I'll just disable Turbo altogether (or pop the 3100 back in and call it a day for the 3600).
 
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I did the most recent test with the case open. My cooler came with thermal paste pre-installed, there was no plastic aside from the cover to protect the TIM. Fan curves on BIOS standard.


It puzzles me too. The Shadow Rock LP should dissipate 80 W of heat without any issue. I have no m.2 drive on the rear.
Pop open HWinfo and do a quick CPUz bench. We'll see what the chip maxes out at. Just because it says "max xx tdp" doesn't mean it won't go above it.
 
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PRD is 88-89% and PPT is 80 W.
80 / 0.88 = 90
The real power consumption of the CPU is 90W during that test. And if it had run cooler it would be even higher.
R3 3100 doesn't come close to that. 3300X is closer to a 3600 in terms of total power consumption.

This is mine during R20 but with better cooling
HWiNFO_27_04_2021_b.png

Around 92~93W real.
 
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80 / 0.88 = 90
The real power consumption of the CPU is 90W during that test. And if it had run cooler it would be even higher.
R3 3100 doesn't come close to that. 3300X is closer to a 3600 in terms of total power consumption.

This is mine during R20 but with better cooling
View attachment 198279

Around 92~93W real.
If you manage 61 C with a 280 mm AIO, then I guess 80 C isn't that bad for a slim SFF build.
 

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If you manage 61 C with a 280 mm AIO, then I guess 80 C isn't that bad for a slim SFF build.
Gotta remember, these are tiny heat generators. Smaller than previous generations. A bit harder to cool too.
 
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I did the most recent test with the case open. My cooler came with thermal paste pre-installed, there was no plastic aside from the cover to protect the TIM. Fan curves on BIOS standard.


It puzzles me too. The Shadow Rock LP should dissipate 80 W of heat without any issue. I have no m.2 drive on the rear.

Edit: I'll try with Arctic MX-4 thermal paste tomorrow, but I don't expect much change. If nothing happens, I'll just disable Turbo altogether (or pop the 3100 back in and call it a day for the 3600).

I'd go with what Toothless has suggested. But I will add that you should try the latest AMD chipset from their site as it may include fixes although I haven't looked lately. And I would also try and get Ryen Master up and running before throwing in the towel.
 
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Gotta remember, these are tiny heat generators. Smaller than previous generations.
That is the "issue" with 7nm. High heat density.
If you manage 61 C with a 280 mm AIO, then I guess 80 C isn't that bad for a slim SFF build.
And with Liquid Metal for TIM. That help dropping a few deg more.

EDIT: typo
 
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You should check out those new gen Thermalright coolers.. they take the heat away :D
 

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That is the "issue" with 7nm. High heat density.

And with Liquid Metal for TIM. That hepled dropping a few deg more.
Heat and sensitive to current. At least they're not pulling 200w+ like a new generation we know,
 
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Heat and sensitive to current.
Yes I should have said one of the issues...
The CPU must run really cool to allow more current.
 
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