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Should i liquid metal cool my laptop

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my laptop has terrible thermals and has a copper heatpipe
 

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Putting liquid ultra to my i5-4210M dropped its temps about 5C, why not.
 

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You can, but you need to be careful. If done right, it works really well.
 
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Maenad

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Check for tutorials. I personally put liquid metal with a q-tip.
 
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What do you mean by "terrible thermals"? What are your temps? Is the notebook throttling back in speeds? Have you changed any of the timing or voltage defaults?

While it is true you may get 5°C improvement with a "proper" (critical requirement) application of new TIM (thermal interface material), the fact is, if you "need" that 5°C to keep your system from crossing over thermal protection thresholds, your system is running too hot to begin with. Are the vents and interior clean of heat trapping dust? Are the fans spinning properly? Do you use a cooling pad and/or are you operating the laptop on a flat, hard surface?

I personally put liquid metal with a q-tip.
A Q-tip? I hope you mean you snip off the cotton swap end and use just the plastic shaft part. It surely would be counterproductive if even a single fiber of cotton from the swab got in between the CPU and the heatsink.

I use a Q-tip/cotton swab too - a plastic shaft swap. But I snip off the cotton-swap end, then bend the plastic shaft about 1/2 inch from the cut end to form a little hockey stick applicator. Then I put a dab of TIM on the die and spread it around with my stick applicator like icing a cake - spreading it as thin as possible while ensuring full coverage. This is, of course, after thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces of any old TIM and other possible contaminants with 91-93% isopropyl alcohol.
 

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A Q-tip? I hope you mean you snip off the cotton swap end and use just the plastic shaft part. It surely would be counterproductive if even a single fiber of cotton from the swab got in between the CPU and the heatsink.

I use a Q-tip/cotton swab too - a plastic shaft swap. But I snip off the cotton-swap end, then bend the plastic shaft about 1/2 inch from the cut end to form a little hockey stick applicator. Then I put a dab of TIM on the die and spread it around with my stick applicator like icing a cake - spreading it as thin as possible while ensuring full coverage. This is, of course, after thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces of any old TIM and other possible contaminants with 91-93% isopropyl alcohol.
Nope, I mean just taking an unused q-tip and spreading the LM with it.
 
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Nope, I mean just taking an unused q-tip and spreading the LM with it.

Yeah, that is a bad idea and you need to stop doing that because you risk a cotton fiber shedding off the swap and getting trapped between the mating surfaces.

Remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. The purpose of TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that might get trapped in there. Any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that transfer of heat. This is why you want to apply it as thin as possible.

So since we are talking about "microscopic" imperfections in the IHS and heatsink mating surfaces, imagine that a tiny cotton fiber from a swap, which is something we can see with the naked human eye, would be like a giant tree trunk in the way! :eek: Not good. You don't even want specks of dust in there! Also, cotton is a great insulator because the fibers trap air. It is not a conductor of heat. That is one reason clothes and sheets are made of cotton.

If the liquid metal comes in contact with any aluminum, it will destroy the aluminum.

Yeah, and many heatsinks are made of aluminum.
 

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Yeah, that is a bad idea and you need to stop doing that because you risk a cotton fiber shedding off the swap and getting trapped between the mating surfaces.

Remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact. The purpose of TIM is to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push out any insulating air that might get trapped in there. Any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that transfer of heat. This is why you want to apply it as thin as possible.

So since we are talking about "microscopic" imperfections in the IHS and heatsink mating surfaces, imagine that a tiny cotton fiber from a swap, which is something we can see with the naked human eye, would be like a giant tree trunk in the way! :eek: Not good. You don't even want specks of dust in there! Also, cotton is a great insulator because the fibers trap air. It is not a conductor of heat. That is one reason clothes and sheets are made of cotton.



Yeah, and many heatsinks are made of aluminum.
Oh shit, here we go again.... I don't have anything personal against u, but we have always different opinions about things. :laugh:

Application with q-tip is just so much easier than with those brushes. And I believe that you have eyes just like I do to see that are there any bonus crap in the LM TIM application.

I don't force anyone to use my method but I still prefer it.
 
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OP Should really think twice or at least look into watch a how to if it's worth trying
 
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Application with q-tip is just so much easier than with those brushes.
:( It has nothing to do with being easier. You could just put a dab on your finger tip and smear it around if you were looking to be lazy about it.

And no where did I mention brushes.

It is all about avoiding contamination! That's not opinion - that's just fact.

If you don't care if foreign particles get in between your CPU and heatsink, fine! Doesn't affect me. But I sure don't see how snipping off the cotton end of a Q-Tip is hard.

Let's move on.
 
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Putting liquid ultra to my i5-4210M dropped its temps about 5C, why not.

There is something I am missing here; according to my estimates (and I could be wrong) for a heat-sink

Power 100 W​
Area 3 cm x 3 cm​
Thermal conductivity 20 W/ K m​
Thickness 0.05 mm​

I get a temperature drop of 0.28°C; so maybe 1°C for a reasonable heat grease.

But 5°C?

What is the area on that CPU? that might be it.
 

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OP Should really think twice or at least look into watch a how to if it's worth trying

It's not a thing people not familiar with it should ever use
 

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There is something I am missing here; according to my estimates (and I could be wrong) for a heat-sink

Power 100 W​
Area 3 cm x 3 cm​
Thermal conductivity 20 W/ K m​
Thickness 0.05 mm​

I get a temperature drop of 0.28°C; so maybe 1°C for a reasonable heat grease.

But 5°C?
You must think that every laptop and their cooling isn't the same, the effects are different between different laptops.
 
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Application with q-tip is just so much easier than with those brushes.
Brushes to apply liquid metal?!
But I sure don't see how snipping off the cotton end of a Q-Tip is hard.
Actually, I don't like the cotton ones either. But I could go with the black ones that come bundled with Conductonaut. They don't shed fibers.

 
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Nope, I mean just taking an unused q-tip and spreading the LM with it.

That isn't the best idea for avoiding contamination and also a big waste of LM as most gets absorbed into the cotton and that stuff is expensive. Even if you can't see it there are going to by fibers left behind from the qtip.
 
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But 5°C?
I think you are over thinking it, Andy. I believe your math and theory are correct, but it assumes ideal conditions "before" the new application too. And we cannot assume that. Perhaps the cured bond of the old TIM was broken - as often happens, ironically, when users twist the cooler too hard when checking to see if loose, and they end up loosening it in the process. So maybe the old TIM was not working as efficiently as theory would have it. Or perhaps the old was not applied properly.

And I, for one, always thoroughly clean the heatsink fins and fan whenever I pull a cooler. And if I open a case, I always clean out the interior too. So maybe an additional degree or two of better cooling was achieved through those actions.

Point being, there are too many unknown variables in this particular scenario for you to come to a viable conclusion.

Actually, I don't like the cotton ones either. But I could go with the black ones that come bundled with Conductonaut.
I would not spend money for those, but if the TIM maker includes one in the package, then sure, I would use it. As for using cotton swabs, it is not about the swab, but the relatively stiff plastic shaft. They are not so hard and stiff they risk scratching the soft metals, and they are not so flimsy that they cannot push and spread evenly the TIM. I tried plastic straws, and even plastic stir sticks. But they are not stiff enough. Plus, most folks already have cotton swabs in the house - you just need to make sure they are not the type with wooden shafts. So I clip off the swab, bend the end, give it a quick wipe with alcohol on a soft microfiber cloth. Then I give the mating surfaces a quick blast of canned dusting gas. Then I apply the TIM and quickly (to avoid any contamination) mount the cooler.

No doubt others have their own non-contaminating ways that work fine. I certainly am not saying my way is the only way. It is just what has worked for me for over 45 years maintaining electronics. A fellow tech I know uses a credit card. Another puts plastic wrap over his finger tip, then spreads it with his finger. Others use these spreaders. Anything that doesn't risk contaminating the field with dirt and debris, including skin oils, is fine.
 

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That isn't the best idea for avoiding contamination and also a big waste of LM as most gets absorbed into the cotton and that stuff is expensive. Even if you can't see it there are going to by fibers left behind from the qtip.
Well, I've used only Coollaboratory liquid ultra and pro and with those, q-tips have been fine.


But that's just me, not gonna argue with ya.
 

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Remember to also clean the heatsink :)
 
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Remember to also clean the heatsink
Oops. I forgot to list that in my last reply. And clean the IHS too. There should be absolutely not trace of any old TIM anywhere. I use 91-93% isopropyl alcohol with a clean microfiber cloth. Eyeglass cleaning cloths are great for this. That alcohol is more concentrated than the typical 73-76% stuff more commonly found. I use the 91-93% stuff, which you can find at your local pharmacy/chemist, because it does not leave a film and dries/evaporates more quickly.
 
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If you can find it, ArctiClean works well for cleaning TIM too.
 
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