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socket 939 backplate screws thread size?

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by coodiggy, Jan 13, 2009.

  1. coodiggy

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    I'm putting together a WC loop on a socket 939, using a backplate from a dynatron s939 heatsink. I don't have a screw gage, so I'm wondering if anyone knows what screw the backplate takes, if it's metric or sae and what diameter/thread pitch. As you can see in the pic, the screws that the backplate comes with are too short for what I'm doing :(

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  2. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    take the screws to any respectable hardware store and they should be able to match em up and just get longer versions!
     
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  3. coodiggy

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    Thanks sneeky, I'll see what I can find :) aslo, any idea how to get little bits of metal outa my waterblock ? I drilled the centers out of the inlet/outlet's to flow a little more n have been shaking it around with it upside down, I can't hear anything left in there, but I'm sure there's little bits n dust n junk in there.. I was thinking of soda blasting the inside to clear out the old oxidation n maybe I'll run the outflow strait to the res n hope it settles to the bottom :( oh the stupid things I do....
     
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  4. MKmods Case Mod Guru

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  5. coodiggy

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    Thanks, I also read someone's post on another forum that said the same, "pretty sure they were 6-32" thats SAE.. off to the store cause I don't have any sae screws.. smallest I got is metric 7x1.0 and 8x1.25
     
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  6. coodiggy

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    Confirmed :) 6-32 sae. I wound up getting four of them, at two inches long, that way I have room for springs and washers, with a little extra that I can cut off if I need. While I was at the store I found some male pipe thread to 3/8" brass hose barbs that I reworked to use as solder on barbs for the 3/8" inlet/outlets of the mcw6000. Had to turn off the threads and tool surfaces, bored the bottom ID to 3/8", bored out the through holes to match the ID of the inlet/outlet pipes, then cut off two of the end barbs to make them a little shorter.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 13, 2009
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  7. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    If you are still wondering about flushing the bits out, I'd would hit it with a garden hose if it wasn't so cold out here now, but that may oxidize the copper too. Flush it with a light vinegar. It wont oxidize and its liquid so it should pick up the bits with a bit of shaking, then dump it out and repeat. Could substitute a $1 jug of distilled water to flush it with also.
     
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  8. coodiggy

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    I'm gonna try flushing it out a few times with some detergent, then maybe vinegar, I have some distilled water that I can finish it off with though.
     
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  9. coodiggy

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    K, finally got the barbs soldered on this afternoon; little cleanup of the solder joints n I'm ready to figure out how to clean the "inside" heh...
     

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  10. MKmods Case Mod Guru

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    nicely done
     
  11. coodiggy

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    Thanks, I have a little practice soldering, there was a big gob of solder on the outside of the barbs flat collar that I filed off and cleanned it up with some emery.. Best part is "no leaks" the barbs n copper sucked the solder right up. I did have to wrap the back and sides of the block with a wet rag, cause the top is soldered to the base, the two top pipes are brazed on, so no worries there..
     
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  12. coodiggy

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    I hooked it up to the faucet, filled it with detergent, ran water through it while shaking around upside down, got half soaked myself and dammit, I can still hear a little metal bit clinking around in there.....
     
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  13. coodiggy

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    I finally got all the bits of metal out of the block. I found that when I bored the outlet ID, I went a little too deep with the drill and bent over two of the internal cooling pins. All the little metal bits were clamped down by the bent over pins, so I had to use a smaller drill bit in a pair of vice grips to unbend the pins. Shook out the bits by tapping the side of the block with a mallet while holding it upside down. These things would have destroyed the water pump! I went ahead and soda blasted through the block for a minute or two to remove the oxide and old coolant/UV residue, n blow out any remaining metal bits. Now I just need to wash it out and hook it up :)
     

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  14. coodiggy

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    MCW 6000 revissited

    Decided that I wanted to go with all 1/2" fittings, so I started by removing my 3/8" solder on barbs, dremelled off the old brazed on tubes from the top of the mcw6000, then carefully increased the diameter of the holes with a small dremel saw bit so that the base of my new barbs fit snug inside the top :) After dremelling and rensing out the block I noticed there was a bur on the inside edge of the top's new holes and some other bits of metal stuck under a metal flow plate inside the waterblock that I didn't know was in there... Decided the only way to clean it was to unsolder the base from the top of the block, which turned out to be a good idea..

    When I got the base and top apart I found a mess inside! Lots of oxidized copper except just below the inlet and outlet's where I had blown in with the soda blaster. Check out the pictures :) First pic shows the uglyness, last couple pics are after re-soldering the top and new 1/2" barbs.. I gotta do a presurized leaktest, then re-lap the base :)
     

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    Last edited: Mar 8, 2009
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