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Soldering Guide Help

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Would like to try at some point, but the old lead solder is universally found and I have heaps of it and solder paste cost a lot more anyway. How long does it last unopened/opened? I have looked at some and they generally say they don't last long. Is that why the fridge?
In general 6-12 months officially. On practice few years, depending on the packaging quality. Problem with those, many flux/compounds itself are not approved for anymore. It is internally proven to be aggressive, conductive, corrosive and not ESD safe. There is nothing much to do about it if your work under the manufacturers and he dictates the standards, as from the assembly line and further RMA experience they deduced it causes problems, the information often is closed under NDA. We only store few glues and rubber gap fillers in the fridge.

I adore these warnings. Those MAYs.

20200213_115258.jpg
 

Frick

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In general 6-12 months officially. On practice few years, depending on the packaging quality. Problem with those, many flux/compounds itself are not approved for anymore. It is internally proven to be aggressive, conductive, corrosive and not ESD safe. There is nothing much to do about it if your work under the manufacturers and he dictates the standards, as from the assembly line and further RMA experience they deduced it causes problems, the information often is closed under NDA. We only store few glues and rubber gap fillers in the fridge.

I adore these warnings. Those MAYs.

View attachment 144729
With solder paste you mean? I knew lead free solder is not as good (don't forget the whiskers!) but I know next to nothing about solder paste.
 
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With solder paste you mean? I knew lead free solder is not as good (don't forget the whiskers!) but I know next to nothing about solder paste.
That paste also has flux mixture in it, there are 3 types of it, from that depends that the shelf life, prone to evaporation etc, new ones ain't anymore, no need for the fridge. I haven't met anyone really using it much. It is more easy to use hot plate and instantly solder everything on. Cleaning that paste often could end up as a pain in the arse, soaking up with shady solvents sensitive parts etc... it has drawbacks. Just as everything.

Lead free ain't that bad. It has higher melting point, it behaves bad with corrosive damage, it simply rots away versus the older lead based. But other than that... no real differences if you solder a fresh project... When doing repairs, that's a different story, actually the practice is adding lead solder to drop melting point and do less damage.

For special items... there are some super heat sensitive fragile parts, mostly RF transmitter department, for those we have low melting point solder, Bismuth/Indium.
 
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In general 6-12 months officially. On practice few years, depending on the packaging quality. Problem with those, many flux/compounds itself are not approved for anymore. It is internally proven to be aggressive, conductive, corrosive and not ESD safe. There is nothing much to do about it if your work under the manufacturers and he dictates the standards, as from the assembly line and further RMA experience they deduced it causes problems, the information often is closed under NDA. We only store few glues and rubber gap fillers in the fridge.

I adore these warnings. Those MAYs.

View attachment 144729
If I was to replace my current solder paste I would buy something like this https://uk.farnell.com/multicore-loctite/2006905-m/solder-paste-62-36-2-179-deg-500g/dp/5091111?st=solder paste

I use lower melting point solder as I have infrared workstation. I don't want to disturb other components like PCI slots. That's the only reason why I choose lower melting point solder. All of the solder paste I buy has an expiry date on it. Zoom in on the photo of item in link, you can see the use by date (example).
 
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I use lower melting point solder as I have infrared workstation
It depends on what you solder, for planar parts, no BGA involved. Also risk of cold joints as the melting point is way to low and the metal diffusion for some reasons doesn't happen good(nitrogen must be used), xray then needed also, etc etc. People often use some china powders, made from who knows, there we know about Chinese electronics quality problems, the root cause is actually there, the perception of things. You cannot gimp it here much anymore.

More modern is GC10, it does not need refrigeration.

It is another specific case for each of us, but it doesn't really concern starters. It is mass production mode already.
 
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More modern is GC10, it does not need refrigeration.

It is another specific case for each of us, but it doesn't really concern starters. It is mass production mode already.
GC10? interesting never looked into that. It will be on my shopping list in next bulk buy.

EDIT: I do have very cheap solder paste from EBAY. This paste is used for experimental projects. It does not need to be perfect, it just needs to work. I only use my best paste when project is complete & transferred to main PCB.
 
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Great video that's what I call proper soldering. Funny Alpha is the flux I use, very expensive, but i have others.
Yes they have a ton of these PACE training videos this was the first in the series. Some are antique but pretty helpful.
 

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Yet another
I still have my Amiga 1200 motherboard, but I modded it many years ago & should still be working. I removed all the IC & fitted sockets.
So my A1200 motherboard is unique & different to any other A1200 motherboard. It can be repaired in 60 seconds or less if any of the IC goes faulty.

If i get request, i will dig it out & post photo.
 
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Sorry have to scrap that, too much stuff in the way, also I just remembered the CPU & memory are not socketed, everything else should be socketed thou.
Fair enough. That is a very involved process and requires either a ton of time or skillful soldering work.
 
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