This is a tale of woe and despair. Look at the images. That is a tip that has been used for a few hours. The iron is a Weller WM20, the tip is a MTN2. I do the same things I do at home (this isn't my iron, I'm not really working but sort of), the only difference is I have to use lead free solder with this one. This is the third tip, and this is what I am doing and have tried: - At first I used a damp sponge. Good, Ersa-made sponges. With this tip I have used the wire tanglethings (I have no idea what you call them in english) because damp sponges make some unpleasant temperature changes. The tangle thing is made by Weller. - I use Stannol KS100 TC solder (I have a feeling this might be the primary cause because of the high tin content). - I turn the iron off when not in use for more than a few minutes. - I tin it when needed (when finished jobs, before putting it down). - I clean it and retin before shutting down. - I do apply pressure at all. - The things I'm soldering is basic electronic components in boxes (as educational material). Is it the tin? Is the iron too hot, too cold? I do it the same way as I do with my own incredibly crappy iron and that tip just does not die. These tips are literally eaten through in hours. I've read A LOT about soldering lately and I'm pretty sure I'm doing the rights things. Are there special irons/tips for lead free solder? Should I choose a different composition? Again, I am at a loss here. I do the same things I do with my own extremely crappy iron with a tip that just keeps going, but I have a hard time believing the solder can make such a difference. Or can it? And no, I can't use leaded solder. And besides, lead free is where it's at no matter what I feel about the subject. Thanks for looking! EDIT: Oh, I forgot to say that he used to have a $10 extremely crappy pen, and with the same solder I treated that pen way worse and that is still servicable.