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stupid fujitsu 12v only psu 16pin connector

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#1
ok so i have this fujitsu esprimo c700, Its not terrible specs really for a tin thting..
4ram slots 1x pci-e slot 3 Sata ports tin little motherboard M-atx or something similar with an i5-2400..

So seems good for a simple build, BUT its not really..

Im going to skip the long story and just come out with my main issue..
its a 12v only board. so its a propriatary connector 16 pins + a seperate 4 pin.. I got the multi meeter out and all the yellow wires are 12v all the blacks are ground. theres a grey one which i think is a power ok check.
green is power on. and then theres a brown 1.. which is 11.3v dont ask me why but it is.. I THINK this is possibly a 12v standby, but im not certain..

What i really want to know is Can i use 12v on the wire that has 11.3v
In theory i should be able to use a diode inline which would naturally drop off 0.7v giving me the 11.3v (but why doo that if its not needed and create a possible failure point..

Help would be apretiated..

also i have seen people all over the internet with these things and they just gave up..
i dont see any reason why i cant swap this out with a standard atx psu.
The plug is a standard atx plug its just shorter, and the wires are in the wrong place.
the 4pin connector really does not seem to be needed at all if you were using a standard atx psu as its only for supplying sata drives.

I will upload a small "very porly made" png i scetched out earlier in paint as i was testing the outputs.
because it seems the pinouts for these psus is a guarded sceecret, and no one else who had one had a multi meeter.

12v fujitsu.png


P.S

the motherboard is also upside down.. (if you wanted to install it in to a standard case the pcie slot would be where the IO sheild is and the IO section would be where the pci-e slots were..)

So just thought id mention that.
you can pick them up for cheap as ex buisines systems, but Im not sure you could even jam a gtx 750 in the case as standard due to clearance isues between the cpu cooler and pcie slot and also the case.. And anything bigger than a 750 would need extra power and thats a no no with the standard psu as well..

Still perfectly fine for a cheap-o in desk build or something (although you will need a pci-e riser cable if you want to use a GPU with any kind of decent cooling on it.)
 
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infrared

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#2
Damn, I dunno if it's really worth messing with proprietary stuff. It makes everything awkward, motherboard holes not lining up, coolers not fitting, not to mention the stupid wiring you're trying to get your head around. I mean, I'm an electrician and have plenty of experience with crimping up these type of connectors, but even I wouldn't bother, it's too much work and plenty of risk of getting one of the wires wrong and killing it.

You could take out the cpu/ram/hdd/dvd drive etc, anything that's a standard non proprietary component, definitely throw the motherboard & psu away, there'll be plenty of used motherboards that will work and can be bought for peanuts. Then you'd just be looking at a new case & psu. That's the direction I'd go with it anyway.
 
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#3
yeah thought of that too.
but for now im going to be trying to run this off a atx psu. if not just for me also for the others who wanted too.

im just wating for a 24pin extender cable to be delivere, and will just modify that, (like i said its a standard layout for the atx plug.. its just shorter) I dont want to hack up a psu when £3 will get me an extender cable i can modify in to an adapter. theres plenty of 12v lines on an atx psu for me to use, and i can even use the +4 pin for cpu if i need more.

by looking at it you keep the +4 part of the 20+4 and 12 aditional holes and those all line up and
the only 1 im worried about is the brown wire, but agdain i know a1n4005 diode will drop it down to 11.3v if thats neded..

i have also seen multiple posts on the internet asking if it can be done. And having actually looked at it i think the answer is yes. so it would be nice to do it and confirm it so others who wanted to do it can do it..
(i see most of them just used the standard psu, then they jumperd the atx psu to power a gpu.)
 
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#4
one reason it has different layout is their own design and it makes you harder to put anything from outside. the bad thing is when you need to replace it but it harder to find or too much expensive, so better trash it than replacing the components
 
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#5
yeah they were built as buinses systems really. and they seem to be coming on to the market now cheap as buisnises upgrade. so its probably about time some one figures it out.
but im sure with a moded cable + riser you can make a cheap in desk 1080p build using a cheap gpu.
i can probably recouperate any money i spend on parts by selling the stupid propriatary 12v only psu. i plan to use a ice 270x in it. but that thing has a huge blower cooler on it, so deffo needs to use a riser cable. which is cheaper than giving it water cooling to try and make it fit. a 750/750ti would probably be a better choice and could even probably be run with the psu that comes with it but im not buying a gpu just for it, and even then i doubt it would fit in the case *(not having one to try means i cant be sure though)
 
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#6
https://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1426547&p=19844363#post19844363

The guy posted pinout with 11V AUX solution: pair of diodes regular + schottky to drop it as close to 11V as possible.
11V is a standby rail, similar to 5VSB on ATX and ESP power supplies, but at higher voltage.
Grey wire is PWR_GOOD, Green is PS_ON as usual.

I'm not really sure about that 4-pin connector.
-5V is normally not used (haven't been for ages), so if it won't start without it, you may attempt to hook it up to


My bad on 11VAUX... It's a standby, so it has to be present all the time.
Here's another solution from some random russian guy:
Basically he took an external 12V PSU (like the ones you buy for LED strips etc), and downtuned it to 11V to supply the standby rail.



EDIT #2: 4-pin is not needed. It's meant to be a power output for your peripherals (HDD, ODD etc.). If you are planning to use a regular ATX PSU, you don't need that connector at all.
 
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#7
so mine with 11.3 is a 11v line ??
So i should deffo throw a a1n4005 diode inline which will drop 12v down to 11.3v (which is what its getting from the psu)
Would be nice if i could get away with feeding it 12v. but if its really suposed to be 11, then 11.3 is as high as i feel comfortable going with and thats only because that is what the fujitsu psu is supplying any way..

the extra 4 pin..
i booted it up with out that connected and seemed to power up ok *didnt have a monitor connected at the time.* but it powered on and all that so i dont think its needed, unless you want to power sata drives from the board.

also that connector your showing has more 12v lines but everything is in the right place so im confident its the same 12vonly standard just powering a bigger system.
 
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#8
I've missed your reply while editing my old post. Check it one more time - I've added more info on 11VSB
 
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#9
yeah that answers my question..
i can just pull 12v from the psu and throw a a1n4005 diode inline. the diode will naturaly "due to not being efficient" drop it from 12v to 11.3
i could use a potentiomiter but the diodes ar like £1 for 50 of the things.. although a small potentiomiter would be less likley to fail.

also i thought it was a standby wire. just seems strange to have 11v from a 12v only psu.. it 100% defeats the point of a 12v only system lol. (possibly why they never became a standard.)

edit.
Actually just thought that a standard atx psu has a 5v standby not 12v... So that complicates things a bit.. Il have to think about it for a while. il try and work with using only an atx psu. but pulling 5v up to 11 is gona be more expensive than droping 12v down to 11.3v

And may just end up making a new 1155 board the cheaper option.
(having looked at viable options, a step up + a diode would cost £3.60 per adapter, with the extender costing £3.50. which means if some one was to make one it would cost atleast £7.10 without labour costs.)
Thats still cheaper than a 1155 board even second hand. but makes it a lot less viable as an option..
If some one wanted me to make one for them for example after labour partys and postage they would be looking at like £15 and then thats just a bit too expensive ompared to getting a 1155 board + all the benifits that come with a non propriatary mother board.

i will have to pin out an atx psu and find if you can pull a 12v constant from it. because 1 dont want to have to make these things for people who want them, and they need to be as cheap as possible or they arent at all viable.

the goal is to make an adapter from a 20+4 extender cable, that uses only the atx psu, for as cheap as possible so i can post how to do it on the internet and the 5-6 other people who want one can make one too "if they find this web site"

i will try 5v standby on the 11v standby. The motherboard is just stepping it down to a usable voltage for standby. With a lot of luck it will work using 5v as standby.

I also think i could shunt power on to ground. after the atx psu is connected. then run a 12v line droped to 11/11.3v to the 11v standby. BUT then you wouldnt be able to turn off the pc. (although restart then load to bios, would allow a safe way to unplug the system)

with the power being shunted on the standby wouldnt really be needed (atleast i dont think it would) so i could try it without standby at all.
This would be a dirt cheap way of doing it. but the least elegant.
im also worried that the 11v standby powers the usb ports.. but im not certain about that.
 
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#10
Just to update on this..
got the 20+4 extender cable today, and went ahead and re wired it...
as suspected 5v standby is not enough to power the motherboard standby, but you can just temporally short out green to ground.
So you can just wire a reset or standard case power switch between green and ground and use that to power on the system, and the rest works as intended. once the system is on green is grounded any way so you dont need to permanently connect green to ground. just make sure you leave it connected to the board as well.

What you really need to use this in either a btx or atx case. is a 30cm (minimum length for atx case longer wouldn't hurt) pci-e riser cable. that will let you relocate the gpu to a slot space, and it will also guarantee clearance from the heatsink.

so far its all running fine. with only 5v connected to the standby (but you have to ground out green wire for a second to power on)
and the 4 pin extra connector is not connected at all.
So it seems you don't need 11v at all unless you really want it to work as intended.
All the usb ports seem to get power just fine, i was worried they would use the standby power as well but seems they dont.
 
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#11
all the extra volt would do is maby add a tenth of a degree to the vrm temps buck regulators generally don't care about a couple volts
should use a relay for the power-on circuit

or you could just pickup a boost converter/voltage doubler on amazon and step the 5v standby up to the required 12ish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MMTLB4/?tag=tec06d-20
 

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#12
Thank you so much for looking into it. I just bought Fujitsu desktop to upgrade it and was surprised when I noticed it's using proprietary power connector.

Hopefully something can be done about it because I would hate to throw away working mobo especially because it's got win10 on it.

Maybe I'll try asking some questions on PSU manufacturers forums?
 

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#13
Thank you so much for looking into it. I just bought Fujitsu desktop to upgrade it and was surprised when I noticed it's using proprietary power connector.

Hopefully something can be done about it because I would hate to throw away working mobo especially because it's got win10 on it.

Maybe I'll try asking some questions on PSU manufacturers forums?
Best to ask there or call technical support.

Me personally I'd stop messing with it buy the recommended part, make it work then sell it off. It's like some dell's and all Apples, just meant to be binned after it fails...
 
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#14
Honest answer..
You can just wire up a 24 pin extender cable, and trim the other end to fit..

is it worth it??

Nah.. The Psu is a stupid shape, making a higher wattage replacement need a new case. but you could probably find a SFF atx PSU that Would "KIND OF" fit.

In all honesty the best bet for an upgrade to this system. is leave the psu as is, and get a low profile single slot gtx 750 or 750ti (a 750ti would need to be the one without a pci-e power connector)

yes i did this so others looking could find the answer, but its a small pool of people who will actually use the information. its fine for idiots like me who tinker and dont mind a massive nest of wires and a precarious motherboard shoe horned in to a home made case.. or a modified BTX case.

so if your thinking "i want to game on this thing"
just try and get a 750 or 750 ti either would be pretty well balanced GPU(s) for the system in all honesty. and is probably the best choice all round as in a upgrade path for the system.

otherwise you have to modify a case. re wire an extender cable. and risk all the problems that could be caused by that.
if you want to use the same case then your still limited to a low profile gpu. so just get a 750

if you just need the standard PSU for it, well i put mine for sale on ebay. so you could search for one there, but i am in the uk, and not likely to post over seas.
 
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#15
I've got same kind of problem with Fujitsu W510 power (D3067 motherboard). The PSU model is a 500 watts 'DPS-500XB A'. This setup has same kind of 16pin connector as in the 1st post, except there are 6 x 12V lines. Also that 3pin "empty line" from the 1st post's picture is connected. There is also a 8pin connector with 3 wires coming from the PSU toi the motherboard, but it's not important about my notices.

I have done some research with multimeter. Here are my notices
  1. In my PSU there is 12 and 6 pin connectors free at the PSU like "normal" modular PSUs. The 6pin has 3 x 12V and 3 x ground -> you can get one GPU power line (PCIE) from there. Adapters with same connectors at each end are hard to find, so I just bought the components from local electronic store and will make the wires by myself. Or actually I will put 8pin connector to the other side, so I don't have to use any adapters. As the PSU can easily give needed 150W for each 12V rail.
  2. This 2nd notice is quite interesting. At least my Fujitsu motherboard and the one in the video few posts above are actually "ATX 24pin connector ready". Just the connector is missing from the motherboard. Look at the right side on the motherboard on that video. There are 24 pins in a 2 x 12 rows without any connectors. I measured those "pins" with multimeter and pins are in standard order, e.g. 5V standby is there. The ATX connector's clip should be outwards. Therefore I think the motherboard has an option for standard ATX PSU to override original PSU and 3.3/5V voltage regulation components on the motherboard. I don't know why Fujitsu has left that option. Maybe the haven't trusted their "12V only PSU" themselves and left backup option without need for motherboard re-design :) . Anyway I at least will solder ATX connector to the motherboard and test what happens.

And for me that 500W with one PICE connector isn't enough, as my GPU GTX770 requires 2 extra power connectors. I already bought an used 5,25" GPU power supply and use that at least in the beginning for the GPU's second power connector.
 
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#16
ok, with a 12v only board. you run a slight BUT NOT MASSIVE risk if you were to solder on a 20+4 header.
the 12v only boards have circuitry on the board that steps a 12v input down to 3.3 and 5v as and where needed.
the chances of supplying a 20+4v connector with a standard atx psu and the thing actually working are really slim.
the 5v lines will be expecting 12v and will step it down to 5v (probably using resistors) so a 5v supply would be stepped down to unusable voltages. I guess its worth a try if you are confident in your ability to solder the connector, but for it to work all the step down circuitry would have to be located Right on the proprietary connector outputs and not inline with the 20+4. they would hopefully also be protected by diodes. which could be possible

I imagine the 20+4 connection on the board is mainly for testing btw.
1st you check the board works with proper voltages supplied by an atx psu.
then you check it works with a 12v only psu.
then you check that the voltages at the 24pin are correct when supplied with a 12v psu.
Easier to have the board verified that the regulations are all working correctly by having a test pad and then just measuring the voltages at that. rather than measuring voltages at every single component,
but that does imply that you should be able to power it from there Provided the pin out is correct.

i would test the idea out for you on my board but having looked at it mine does not have a 20+4 pin header any where, nor does it have any solder pads or holes where one could be installed.
 
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#17
then you check that the voltages at the 24pin are correct when supplied with a 12v psu.
I'm already at this point :) Yes, I have learned in last few days how "12V only" boards work. The 24pin connector has right voltage (12V, 5V, -12V etc.) in every pin when the computer is running. Meaning that this connector is after resistors in the power circuit. So I think that voltage changes from 12V only PSU are made in "1st step" in motherboard and everyhing else after that works normally. And this connector is part of that normal motherboard design.

I attached few images of the moterboard and enclosure info. Even there is a mention of "PSU Connector MultiRail"

And I've got nothing to lose. I have old normal PSU, GPU and HDD. I will start computer at my yard in case of something gets burned. And I can get another similar computer, if this one will be destroyed :)
 

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System Name Sham Pc
Processor i5-2500k @ 4.33
Motherboard INTEL DZ77SL 50K
Cooling 2 bay res. "2L of fluid in loop" 1x480 2x360
Memory 16gb 4x4 kingstone 1600 hyper x fury black
Video Card(s) hfa2 gtx 780 @ 1306/1768 (xspc bloc)
Storage 1tb wd red 120gb kingston on the way os, 1.5Tb wd black, 3tb random WD rebrand
Display(s) cibox something or other 23" 1080p " 23 inch downstairs. 52 inch plasma downstairs 15" tft kitchen
Case 900D
Audio Device(s) on board
Power Supply xion gaming seriese 1000W (non modular) 80+ bronze
Software windows 10 pro x64
#18
Well..
Id personally try it. but im one of those people. lol

I would hope that it is wired like this:
FNE.png

And Does have the Diodes (yes i know that's a stupidly basic image) even without the diodes should still work if its wired like that.

And it is not wired like this:
NFNE.png

Like i said i would go ahead and do it.
Slap some leaded solder on the pads 1st, then clear out the holes (i assume its through hole)
Then its easy to solder on a connector, the hardest part is getting the old solder out without damage.
 
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#19
And I've got nothing to lose. I have old normal PSU, GPU and HDD. I will start computer at my yard in case of something gets burned. And I can get another similar computer, if this one will be destroyed :)
Did U done this? If that works? I have the same problem as U. Could U give some details please?
 

Kvass

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#20
Not the best solution, but you can buy a board that you plug sata port in, and 24 pin from auxiliary psu and both will turn on on boot. I have done it this way and it works just fine.
the name of the board I've got is ADP2ATX-NO1

but I've seen other similar.

The only problem I had is, after I put a GTX-970 in the chassis, there was no room where to mount the psu so I have it dangling from the back and had to buy a magnetic filter so it doesn't get dusty.
 
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#21
Did U done this? If that works? I have the same problem as U. Could U give some details please?
Only 23 out of 24 pins worked :(. The problem was multilayer a circuit board and high temperature tin.

Tin on the mother board had a high melting temperature. I couldn't get it melted with just soldering iron tip, so I drilled small hole (1-1,5mm) first and then heat conduction was better. When I lifted soldering iron up, the hole was again shut with remaining tin -> new drilling. So slowly and carefully with drill / soldering iron -combination I could get holes big enough to fit connector legs in. I also tried melting with small amount of soldering tin, but it didn't help - drilling gave better results.

At first attemp 3 pins didn't have proper connection (voltage), when the original PSU was connected. So I had to melt / re-solder those. Finally one 3,3V connector hadn't any voltage even tin seemed to be OK. This is a multilayer circuit board and the connection for this pin was in the middle layer. In few places around the holes the circuit board changed from green to brown before tin melted. Maybe this pin connector was damaged inside the circuit board when I had to use so much heat to melt the orginal tin.

So I sold my GTX 770 graphics adapter and bought GTX 1060, which works with one 6pin PCI-E power connector and my Fujitsu 500W power has output for that. But the motherboard didn't broke, so it was worth trying this :)
 

Sgoaty

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#22
Very helpful stuff. I only wish id read this before winning an ebay auction for a W520. I was hoping to sling in an old GTX670 to make a pretty decent budget gaming PC but it looks like I've just bought myself a headache instead.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fujitsu-...Sc%2BJ47pc%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc

I'm hoping if i cant get the 670 to work off of the 500w PSU then with any luck the case might accept a standard ATX board and PSU.

Thanks
Scott
 
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#24
Hi...in my case also the 6pin has 3 x 12V and 3 x ground -> you can get one GPU power line from there. Adapters with same connectors at each end are hard to find, so I just bought the components from local electronic store and will make the wires by myself.
 
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