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System not performing well

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#1
Alright, I've posted this question before, but now I have more to add. I just woke up so forgive me for any errors I make. My system is as follows:
i5 3570k at 3.4 ghz
Asrock Z77 Extreme4 Mobo
Crucial Sport Ballistix 8GB ram (2x4)
Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler (brand new, replaced a stock CPU cooler)
Seagate Barracuda 500GB HDD
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD
EVGA GTX 780 Classified Edition with 3GB of VRAM (brand new, replaced a EVGA GTX 670 FTW 2GB)
Corsair AX860 Platinum PSU (brand new, replaced a Corsair TX650 PSU Bronze)
Cooler Master Haf 932 Full Tower (brand new, replaced a generic cheap mid tower)
Running on Windows 7 OS

OKay, these problems started around the time the Tianfall beta was open, I think the 17th of February. All of my old parts were still in the PC and I did not replace them until last week. I did not remember downloading anything that day, although I did receive some malware or adware around that time (SavingsBull), which is only present on Mozilla Firefox now for some reason, which I uninstalled. I also downloaded BitDefender somewhere around that date, which I have already uninstalled to see if it was the problem, it is not. I don't think it is hardware, several stress tests were ran on about every component and they were fine. However, the voltages I'm not sure about, using SpeenFan, my voltage drops from like 12 something all the way down to 11.83 volts while playing a game, is this normal? I get random FPS dips and when it drops it lags too much, consistent 60 FPS all the way down to 30-40(which should still be playable). The new GTX 780 should perform way better than my previous card, it doesn't. My computer isn't performing as well as it used to, sometimes programs won't do anything when I click them, random crashes when in game, etc. In Tomb Raider, all settings maxed out, I maintain 60 FPS, then when there are no enemies around, it'll drop suddenly then pick back up. Benchmarks easily put the card in the 80s MINIMUM at 1080P, I do have V-sync turned on at the NVidia Control Panel. My Gtx 670 ran games just fine, might have to lower a few settings but it maintained a constant 50-60 FPS most of the time, and didn't lag, stutter, etc. Then one day it went to crap. At first I though it was the PSU or GPU, now that I've replaced those it's got to be something else. ALL of the drivers are up to date that I know of, including the Mobo, if you would like to know which updates are currently installed let me know how to tell you. I've done a clean installation of the latest Nvidia driver as well. I did take it to computer shop where they ran stress tests and scanners for TWO days, and they didn't find anything. They recommended that I buy a new HDD and reinstall just my OS on it to see if it's a software issue. Everything is staying cool so I'm really frustrated. I realize no GPU could stay locked at 60 FPS all the time, but for the most part this one should, and it shouldn't lag under 60. I'm thinking I just want to format everything and start over, I bought the PC used from a friend so I've only had time to basically install games, nothing important. Last night I almost threw the thing away, I got a blue screen on a restart and it kept popping up, wouldn't let me boot up, finally remembered how to boot into safe mode and I restarted to a previous successful boot. Please help if you can guys, I love the PC and I plan to play at 1440P and overclock stuff soon, not until I get this fixed though. Thank you for your time.
 
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#2
I would delete some of your other repeated threads. You spammed this exact thing through atleast 4 different areas of the board.
 

Mussels

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#3
stop spamming this across the forum. i'm deleting the other ones, do it again and i'll just delete everything.
 
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#4
I just signed up, I just posted to ones that may have been relevant. Please leave at least one up
 
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#5
You probably have a corrupted Windows, since you said that you have nothing important on the HDD and the SSD, why would you lose time repairing it, format both (I suspect that Malwares may be present on your HDD and/or SSD) and reinstall Windows.
 
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#6
You probably have a corrupted Windows, since you said that you have nothing important on the HDD and the SSD, why would you lose time repairing it, format both (I suspect that Malwares may be present on your HDD and/or SSD) and reinstall Windows.
I don't have a Windows installation disc or code, so I would have to purchase the OS again, I don't mind if I know it'll work. Is there a full proof way to tell if the os is the problem?
 

Kursah

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#7
Download the Magic Jellybean or Bellarc and you can extract your CD Key and find out which version of the OS you have. You should then be able to go through Microsoft to download the correct ISO. You may need to provide a key or make an account..I don't quite recall but I know it's possible. That or you can get your ISO from another source.
 

Norton

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#8
Download the Magic Jellybean or Bellarc and you can extract your CD Key and find out which version of the OS you have. You should then be able to go through Microsoft to download the correct ISO. You may need to provide a key or make an account..I don't quite recall but I know it's possible. That or you can get your ISO from another source.
+1

ISO files can be found here (need your key to install):

http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river/
 
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#9
How did the OS get corrupted? It's ran fine for a long time.
 
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#10
It can be caused by a software that you installed, a cleaning software that deleted registry keys, malwares/viruses or even an accidental deleting of windows files. It might as well be bad sectors in your HDD or a bad SSD.

Download CrystalDiskInfo Standard Edition and verify the health status of your drives.
Run cmd.exe as administrator and type CHKDSK X /F where X correspond to your HDD letter.
Install Malwarebytes and do a full scan.

If nothing comes up, it's Windows.
Do a secure erase of your SSD, reinstall Windows using the link Norton posted and here is an alternative to get your current Windows Key => ProduKey (It can be seen as a key gen by some anti viruses, but it is safe).
 
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#11
How did the OS get corrupted? It's ran fine for a long time.
You did it, by not paying enough attention to security, or by going to a website you should have avoided, assuming you're the only user. Or possibly by installing and deleting a program that changed registry entries, or it could be a buggy driver file. Whatever the cause, the easiest fix is to nuke the drives and start over.
 
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#12
You did it, by not paying enough attention to security, or by going to a website you should have avoided, assuming you're the only user. Or possibly by installing and deleting a program that changed registry entries, or it could be a buggy driver file. Whatever the cause, the easiest fix is to nuke the drives and start over.
I've only had the PC for about a month and a half, it's a large investment so I don't go to any bad sites(porn). I installed bitdefender the day I got it and ran several scans with it and Malwarebytes. I will completely format, should have done that before I started downloading games I guess. Thanks for your replies guys. Hopefully the problem will get fixed, I'll update later this week.
 
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#13
Try this.. "spybot search and destroy" http://www.safer-networking.org/mirrors16/ ..been using it for many years.. one of the best ways to keep spam/malware away if you have any. and then it blocks it from ever getting in again ;)
 
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#14
I've only had the PC for about a month and a half, it's a large investment so I don't go to any bad sites(porn). I installed bitdefender the day I got it and ran several scans with it and Malwarebytes. I will completely format, should have done that before I started downloading games I guess. Thanks for your replies guys. Hopefully the problem will get fixed, I'll update later this week.
Okay, sorry, it seems you do keep on top of it, but things can get past your security in many ways. Porn sites aren't the only bad sites, they are in every area of interest, and "gaming" sites are probably second worst. I've been invaded by malware just by visiting a site, not downloading anything. There's a fine line of browser settings between security and access; too little and malware gets through, too much and half the web page won't load because you've blocked it. I hate clicking on popup boxes asking permission to proceed, so my security settings are going to let things through occasionally, and I deal with it using MBAM.
 
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#15
Yeah, that's the good thing about consoles I guess. Hopefully soon I'll be gaming at 1440P with no hiccups. I'll be buying a new monitor when this problem gets resolved and later this year I'm going to add another 780. I honestly wouldn't care if I sold my consoles at this point. Now I just watch Netflix on the old 360. My next step will be to overclock my CPU and GPU, however I am not going to be setting up a custom water loop for the system until I add another GPU, so how high could I go with the stock cooler on the GTX 780? The Noctua cools the CPU plenty, I hope to reach a stable 4.5 ghz. Also I'm not sure what to do as far as fans go, the case has 3 large fans and 1 small one. 2 intakes and 2 exhausts. I really like the Noctua fans, even though they're ugly, what would you guys recommend for a good setup? I don't mind if it's loud, as long as it's not like a vacuum.
 
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#16
Yeah, that's the good thing about consoles I guess. Hopefully soon I'll be gaming at 1440P with no hiccups. I'll be buying a new monitor when this problem gets resolved and later this year I'm going to add another 780. I honestly wouldn't care if I sold my consoles at this point. Now I just watch Netflix on the old 360. My next step will be to overclock my CPU and GPU, however I am not going to be setting up a custom water loop for the system until I add another GPU, so how high could I go with the stock cooler on the GTX 780? The Noctua cools the CPU plenty, I hope to reach a stable 4.5 ghz. Also I'm not sure what to do as far as fans go, the case has 3 large fans and 1 small one. 2 intakes and 2 exhausts. I really like the Noctua fans, even though they're ugly, what would you guys recommend for a good setup? I don't mind if it's loud, as long as it's not like a vacuum.
I'm in the same place as you, my system is so full I can hardly lift it, but I need to get a 30" monitor and the card(s) to run it properly. My CPU and GPU are water cooled by H100/H55, and I believe a total of 14 fans of various sizes are installed. This was built for performance, not looks (no side window), so I went a little crazy. Running stable @4.5GHz CPU, 2400MHz RAM, 1200MHz GPU, although I mostly run the GPU with a milder OC so as not to push my luck. My next system will be cleaner and probably have 2 x 780s and a custom loop, maybe in a Corsair Graphite 760T. Image00001.jpg
 
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#18
I'm going to completely take it apart and do some better wire management later, I'm sure this is fine but I want it neater. I'm thinking when I add the 2nd 780 I'll water cool everything and add a 1000 watt PSU, not sure though. I did mount the Noctua the wrong way, as you can see. I would like to clean up those wires near the PSU and mount a fan at the bottom. I thought this case came with rubber grommets for all of the holes, but I guess not. Does anybody know if I'll have to upgrade the Mobo anytime soon? I mean would there be any point to if I add another GPU? The Noctua is a beast by the way.
 
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#19
I'm going to completely take it apart and do some better wire management later, I'm sure this is fine but I want it neater. I'm thinking when I add the 2nd 780 I'll water cool everything and add a 1000 watt PSU, not sure though. I did mount the Noctua the wrong way, as you can see. I would like to clean up those wires near the PSU and mount a fan at the bottom. I thought this case came with rubber grommets for all of the holes, but I guess not. Does anybody know if I'll have to upgrade the Mobo anytime soon? I mean would there be any point to if I add another GPU? The Noctua is a beast by the way.
Your rig makes mine look like crap! I guess I suck at wire management, but it was mostly added at different times as I got more hardware. If I started over from scratch there would be a lot less clutter and fan wires showing. And even though my PSU is fully modular, I'm using every port so it's a mess anyway. My $100 Corsair 400R has rubber grommets, so you'd think your $170 HAF case would too. That mobo should be fine for SLI, it's x8 x8 bandwidth, but it's gen 3 so it's not a bottleneck. You certainly have lot's of room above the mobo for fat rads or a push/pull 240mm AIO cooler, unlike my case which barely fits an H100 with 2 fans (but I put 2 more on top outside the case). You're right, that Noctua is huge, and it cools better than most AIOs with 120mm radiators. You're lucky, you still have lots of overclocking to do and free performance to gain, mine's been wrung out as far as it will go without massive custom water cooling, and I'm bored with tweaking it, ready for the next decent platform so I can start all over...
 

eidairaman1

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#20
My case is pretty heavy without anything in it lol

Your rig makes mine look like crap! I guess I suck at wire management, but it was mostly added at different times as I got more hardware. If I started over from scratch there would be a lot less clutter and fan wires showing. And even though my PSU is fully modular, I'm using every port so it's a mess anyway. My $100 Corsair 400R has rubber grommets, so you'd think your $170 HAF case would too. That mobo should be fine for SLI, it's x8 x8 bandwidth, but it's gen 3 so it's not a bottleneck. You certainly have lot's of room above the mobo for fat rads or a push/pull 240mm AIO cooler, unlike my case which barely fits an H100 with 2 fans (but I put 2 more on top outside the case). You're right, that Noctua is huge, and it cools better than most AIOs with 120mm radiators. You're lucky, you still have lots of overclocking to do and free performance to gain, mine's been wrung out as far as it will go without massive custom water cooling, and I'm bored with tweaking it, ready for the next decent platform so I can start all over...
 
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#21
Yeah, mine has got to weigh at least 50 pounds, maybe more with everything in it. I'm excited to start overclocking within the next couple of weeks. I would like to run a custom water loop later, however with two 780s it might be a bit cramped, by the time I get the entire system in. I was looking to spend around 500-800 bucks on water cooling.
 
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#22
replace 780 with 780ti
780 ti has 15-27% better performance in games
 
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#23
Yeah, mine has got to weigh at least 50 pounds, maybe more with everything in it. I'm excited to start overclocking within the next couple of weeks. I would like to run a custom water loop later, however with two 780s it might be a bit cramped, by the time I get the entire system in. I was looking to spend around 500-800 bucks on water cooling.
Probably closer to $800 by the time you buy all the parts, the GPU water blocks aren't cheap, and all those fittings add up... I think I came up with $1000 the last time I priced a similar loop; it can be done cheaper, but I like top quality, especially when a failure could fry your whole system. I was only wishin' anyways, so price was no object. I usually upgrade with my Christmas bonus, so I have to wait 9 or 10 months to even decide if any new platforms are worth the trouble, and much will be different then. I avoided Haswell for my rig, but I got my fix this year by building a nice little Haswell i3 system for my brother and an APU system for the hell of it (sold to a friend a week later). I was not impressed by the AMD system, yeah the on-die graphics are great for an iGPU, but sucks for most gaming, and the CPU section felt like a dual-core (which it essentially is if you study AMD's architecture). Avoid these, even the new Kaveri chips are only a marginal improvement. Intel still rules.
 
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#24
I think most people have said the Ti isn't worth the extra money.
 
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Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD, Seagate Hybrid HDD 2TB
Case Corsair 900D
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Software Windows 8.1
#25
The only thing I'm worried about is maxing out the vram on a 3gb card, I would have liked to see at least 4 gb on the 780.