Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by de.das.dude, Feb 8, 2014.
if u mean desk and by that mean the case, then red like the one in my avatar.
nvm you explained it later.
will it be of any facilitation for you and your family if bed lvl chainging is electrical and can be done with one button only. can you pls upload pictures of the lvl locking mechanism and hinges but pls use tpu fileshare.
what is material of the plates of the bed on which you lay on - wood, plastic or metal.
i kind of disagree with this "which is like that". i am not a doc but i strongly doubt that dusty environment doesnt affect at all your respiratory problems. with easy accessable materials and some hand work amount of dust coming from outside can be vastly reduced.
what are the window frames made from. wood or pvc. there is a door with anti-inscet mesh. door leads to balcony? is there other way to access balcony or this is the only door.
a lot of stuff and huge mess with cables. if we put aside problems with handling (cleaing room etc.) there is a huge risk of accidents. why not make a bit of optimisationa with cable ducts and customized conectors/cables. with good planing huge improvement can be done in this area.
what is the route of audio lines. all devices to onkyo->qsc->beheringer->speakers?
why nas/file server isnt option.
the box you plan to make with all drives, watercooling, 2 pcs etc will be about 25-30kg at least. with size big enough to be uncomfortable to be carried/moved by only one person. this makes cleaning around it hard and timespending.
you have 2 pcs. you can make one of them file server with RIDE 0,1 in separate small case and main pc in other case with only ssds and other essectials.
why you need air in box to be changed 9 times per min. to cool single titan and psu?
if your rosewell collect so much dust in only 2 months with 3x120mm fans, with 30x120mm fans and no air filters after 2 months you will need shovel to clean dust from tarantula box.
o yeah, sorry i mean the desk.
straight red and black is nice
but sometimes finding the right color is hard
Electric bed is not needed as manual has less parts which can become defective also is not difficult to change positions.
The bed is metal.
What can be done to reduce the amount of dust coming in?
Window frames are made of aluminum.
Where is the door with a anti-insect mesh?
There is no balcony in the room.
The cables everyone is used to so if it is changed now there can be accidents.
all devices to onkyo->speakers and beheringer->qsc->subwoofer is the route.
The beheringer and qsc are for the subwoofer only.
I don't like nas/file servers.
I like cooling because I oc.
The rosewill had 6x 140mm and 6x 120mm.
This will have 12x 120mm and 6x 140mm.
Will use filters on the Tarantula Box.
Also will get it carried using 2 people to take it for cleaning once a Month.
there will be some highlights in Blue LED.
only parts that can become defective in electric bed will be motor, reductor and switch itself. all other parts needed are just for support ant connection and if mounted properly cant become defective
they are made with profiles like this http://www.wispe[/quote]co.co.za/products/detaildraw/Casement 30.5 third sub category.pdf with rubber sealings at glass edges.
facing the window at right side corner there is a part of the window that has something like anti-insects mesh. its bottom is coverd by white table with box under. my first guess was that this is baclony door. but since there isnt balcony then it should be part of the window that can be opened. if it is openable does it have anti-insect mesh out side. if no what is the distance between window and metal cage outisde. how is window open - top slide, side slide or door type.
i mean something like this
all power extenders/spliters can be replased with cables inside cable ducts and only power cords of the devices to be connected to plugs.
same can be done with audio&video lines and lan.
why. you will have it attached to your lan and you will have 0 delay. file server in my work is few rooms away from my office and i have faster access to files on it then to files on my 7200 hdd when at home. you can add insulation inside server case to reduce noise from hdds. you can cool it with only 1-2 fans. you can put it in corner so it doestnt mess in the room. you can use it as stool.
only 3 of rosewell fans are unmeshed.
you have aio for cpu (both 360 rads are for cpu only?) oc. you will hit limits of cpu/mb way before you hit termal limits of the rad(s).
in this box you dont need to keep neutral preasure. you have thick walls attached to each other and even if edges of the walls are not cutted straight gaps will be fiilled in for painting. so only intakes in the box will be those you cut. if you add filters on the holes you dont need intake fans. rads fans on push-pull will be enough to drive air inside the box. filters wills prevent dust dumping inside and top glass can easily be sealed. preasure inside case will be irrelevant. just make sure you have fresh air hole agains titan's fan.
less fans=less noise
err can you please take this huge convo to private? this is kinda derailing the work thread.....
Still 3 parts extra with a chance of getting defects.
They are with rubber sealing at the edges of the glass.
That mesh is the old rosewill side panel.
Windows side slide.
I just find open cables more convenient.
Just find the idea of a nas too tedious.
I have a 360mm aio for the pc #1 cpu and a 120mm aio for the pc #2.
I will try your airflow way someday too.
changes in design on their way.
left side will hold 480 rad.
front component alignments have been changed.
will be able to finish the whole design after getting the second donor pc.
no updates here, but been busy at work nevertheless.
went and brought second donor case. a Lian Li
after a trip to the chop shop
salvaging the power buttons wont be easy. they were two part to remove from the upper bezel, and the buttons itself pressed on these buttons on the pcb which is a fixed distance away. unnecessary complications
here is the motherboard and PCIe plate extracted.
used a heavy duty drill. was pretty easy to dismantle this case. time spent 3hours.
the rosy mobo plate isnt as simple as this. there are two extra extensions on the top and bottom of the plate where the other side panel would slide and lock into. these were unnecessary and also used up more space. I had already accounted cutting this in my design to make the mobo sit good at 60mm from the top.
and so on with the chopping.
the circular magnet helps collecting the iron dust and reduces the dirt in my room drastically.
Cut and filed:
Final bit of filing will be done when putting it into the case.
total cutting time 2hrs.
Hopefully i can start the woodwork tomorrow. probably will start with the left side.
total time : 11hours
the top left piece of aluminium channel is clamped too the left . the wood is there to prevent the long channel from slipping under the smaller channel. i would be forcing left on the channel as i saw.
cut out the piece for the left side.
not bad for the first time using a jigsaw eh? used a speed wood blade for this.
total time 12.5hours
use highest speed of the jigsaw motor and move it slower over wood
pendulum action is at medium level. this makes it faster without much chipping.
showing side is on the underside of the cut as that side will not get chipped. jig saw cuts in the upward stroke.
showing side doesnt matter atm. you will have to sand and fill it before painting anyway.
edge of the plate is ruff. if you use fastest saw movement and slide jigsaw slowly you will get more clear cut and you will have to sand less
no. showing side matters to an utmost extent.
the underside is not rough. its smooth. no chipping there because the saw cuts on upward stroke. there wont be any filling. wood grain texture will be maintained. just light matte spray over the whole thing. i dont need to file either because i am cutting it to exact dimensions.
and yes i lock it in the fastest speed and move slowly enough to cause no chipping.
Fan holes drawn onto the side.
testing with fans
rough cut with the jigsaw. i can now do direct cuts with it
after a bit of filing
total 15.5 hours.
What ne6togadno is tryin to tell you is that all experienced woodworkers leave the line when they cut, then use a joiner, plane or sander to remove the rest of the material. If you are happy with your results, that's fine, as you are the customer. Other people just have a different expectation.
yes i got that . see i am only doing the long rough cuts of edges that wont be visible with a rough blade. even with a rough blade the underside does not chip. black and decker gave a very detailed guide with the jigsaw and little things like these were mentioned properly.
in any case "some" bit of sanding will be required to fit in the end :3
for the other detailed edges like the fan hole as you can see. i am using a finer blade with much higher tpi and then sanding it down anyway.
one of the problems with sanding a hick piece of wood is since i dont have a vice at home, i cant get the edges perpendicular quickly. a lot of slow sanding is required since i got to do it by eye. jigsaw eliminates this since the blade is always at 90 degrees.
the inside corners of the case wont be visible so little bit of chipping isnt visible.
also i have found an ingenious way to prevent chipping. draw a fine cut alone the line with a sharpie this already cuts the fine top layer and prevents chipping.
as said.... with practice and making a fine cut along the line with a sharpie, and a higher tpi blade its possible to eliminate chipping even on the top surface.
this is right after the cut.
i have cut really close to the line. Only the starting bit at the drill hole is a bit off. I will be finishing that off later as well with the jigsaw itself, but a different blade.
The hole cut and finished off with jigsaw. Nothing else has been done to it. Will be using sandpaper to smooth it later.
All holes cut and about to be finished with a different blade
Finished with the jigsaw and filed/sanded down:
this is the view from the outside.
total 18 hours.
subscribed. keep us posted !
as always. click the
measured around some limits and other things to check how much i need to leave for the wires. 30mm should be plenty since there is loads of place to route around.
then had to decide if the io sheild and pcie part would go from the inside or the outside. had to be inside since outside would make putting in pcie cards very complicated.
drew the out and drilled starting holes for cutting with the jigsaw.
the left bottom hole is for aligning the io and PCIe bracket part of the motherboard to the motherboard tray. this needed to be done since the i/o part would be fixed permanently onto the left face where as the motherboard tray will be removable by velcro/screws.
checking fits. this face is on the inside of the chassis.
checking fit from the other side
now that it all fits. time to finish/smooth it off with a bit of sanding. this face is the outside face
time to mark out the fan holes for the final time. i got a recent drill bit kit of varying diameters. this is how i used a 4mm one to mark out the holes.
checking it with the rad in the position it will be mounted.
holes were final so time to counter sink them a bit.
this needed to be done since there will be a mesh over the intake fans. also looks cleaner.
one side done 5 more to go!
time taken for this 1.5hours. total time:- 19.5hours
what up? time for a big-little update.
Started working on the HDD cage assembly. if you refer to the design, these are stacks of 3 lian li 3x 5.25" -> 4x 3.5" drive +2 ssd +fan converters.
First off, disassembled the cages as it would not take the force of working because of the non hardened aluminium used in the essential bits.
then lay them flat and started riveting them together in lap riveted joints. i used some 1mm aluminium that i hand brushed for the overlapping pieces.
did this to both sides.
closer view of the delicious brushed aluminium finish.
the ends will be capped off with square aluminium pieces, salvaged from the lian li side panel(s). Then the easy mount mechanism from the rose will will be split and applied to four corners of this. This will allow the 3 bays to come off the cabinet together.
time spent : 4hours.
not been able to exert fully today. food poisoning :s
total time spent 23.5hours.
You have a lot of skill!
huge update on its way.....
I know its been a long time since the last update (20days :O) but been busy with college, exams, job interviews. never the less.. the job was going on in the bg, just didnt have enough time to update.
Some changes were made to the plans for the HDD cages. the lian li cages were of bad soft aluminium. so they had no strength to even hold their own weight. Initial plan was to cut out from the lian li side panels and stick them on but the aluminium is very thin soft there, so i cut out a piece from the rosewill. 2mm solid steel. this was gonna add too much weight so this idea was scrapped too. Finally i decided to fashion two braces out of 1mm thick hard good aluminium.
Because of the busy schedule i forgot to take pics of the brace forming process. In short: 1st i cut 4 pieces to exact size 20mm by 140mm. then straightened out the hard bends etc out of them all, bunched them together and clamped them b/w two pieces of scrap wood from the project. 2nd A bit of the aluminium was handing out, which i used to heat it on a cooking gas burner and let it cool slowly within the wood. This would soften the aluminium and the force from the clamps will make them dead straight. 3rd i checked their sizes a final time and filed down the rough edges. 4th and final i sanded and gave them that brushed finish. the last step put some surface hardness back. This aluminium hardens itself automatically at ambient temp.
I prepped the hdd cage sides by cleaning them with alcohol. With the help of two clamps and rubber based glue, i glued and clamped one of the braces on to the hdd cage as below. Used my fully functioning hdd to get the correct distance. As usual clicking images will show larger resolution.
After the glue has cured over 8 hours, i take the clamps off, mark drill locations and drill and rivet them. The rivets are offset to a side for allowing the easy mount mechanism which will come later after the aluminium has plenty of time to harden.
Here you can see one setting next to a completed one i made earlier
weight test. each clamp weighs 1kg.
After that i went and bought more wood for the top side. Then cut the top side to size, and cut out its acrylic window. The wood from this was enough to make the right side which i will work on now.
Template for fan holes 120mm.
Marking out the holes on the right face
Marked out the second mobo i/o position and scoured along lines with a cutter to reduce splintering at the edge.
Started drill holes for the jigsaw blades with a hand drill thats around 20years older than me. yes thats right.
HDF wood was too hard to finish drilling large holes with hand.
Holes finished off with a power drill
Started branch out cuts with a curve cutting blade for the jigsaw. This will help accomodate the larger final finishing bade
This special blade is a finishing blade. Notice the filing marks on the sides as well as the high TPI. I will use this to cut all the holes as well as do the final finishing.
This is one badass blade.
Fan holes cut out with jigsaw, only the bits at the corners holding the cut outs in place. I will leave them in place for now as they will add structural stability for when i will cut the long mobo tray hole. Without them the vibrations from the jigsaw would damage the wood fibre or even jam up the blade and possibly end in a bloody mess.
All holes cut. Time to pop the scrap out gently, and by that i mean with a hammer.
After the cutouts have been removed
the starting points for the cuts need finishing along with some tid-bits here and there.
After finishing off with the jigsaw:-
Might look ok. but this is the inside face which will be covered by fans rads and not visible.... So hows the outer face lets see....
looks decent. But till i did some final hand finishing with a sanding block and a file on some patches here and there specially around the corners.
Drilling out fan holes and final right side after completion.
Thats all for now. Total working time:- 41Hours.
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