Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by F430, Sep 11, 2009.
I Need it for my pII 955
Way to vague a question here. One thing I'll say. You want to go custom.
high flow barbs and 1/2 tubing bro thats all i can say the HK blocks are awesome i personally love my Dtek
umm, tubing size is personal preference. There's less than a degree difference from 1/4 push fit fittings to 1/2 full sized barbed fittings.
there was a online store that has tons of custom kits with good instructions but i dont remember the name.
if your wanting an all in one kit. there are a few swiftech kits that are decent. or check danger den's site.
these guys have good prices and excelent service with fast shipping. i've had several transactions with them.
about what you are referee?
No one understands the question.
Check my Water loop
I have a 955 x4 PII at 29c idle 34/35 load.
Heatkiller v3, Swiftech MP220 Rad, 1/2 tube.
Cant get much sweeter.
These will work for most anything:
Select your tubing and barbs and have at it.
Not the GTZ. Their are much better blocks out such as the HEATKILLER LT or the EK-Supreme LT.
Nothing wrong with the GTZ and they fit well. Others will not walk all over it as some may think.
Here is a set-up on AMD...http://www.hwbot.org/result.do?resultId=897384 My advise would be to buy whatever is cheapest because at the end of the day it doesnt amount to squat in the real world. Btw, your links are for 1366/775...he needs AMD.
do not go with the koolance rad. aluminum construction and high fpi is bad unless you're all aluminum and have a tolerance for high speed fans.
Just gave him something that was ready to go with no fumbling for parts. I use Swiftech myself.
There you are wrong.
So you are implying that he should buy something that is "ready to go" but will ruin his expenisve loop. Ever here of galvanic corrosion?
Nice charts, but like what was mentioned earlier...in the real world you will never notice a difference. We should be willing to pay double for 2c difference between two blocks? If one were at the end of a demanding bench run and on the ragged edge, you might be able to justify that...most could not.
When Swiftech first hit the market they sold at a premium also and was proclaimed to be the "end all" of water blocks. Now they are junk? There is only so much one can do to improve the wheel. As for "galvanic corrosion"...do you really want to know what kind of rad is in your vehicle atm and how many different metals are involved in the loop?
Not trying to start a war here. There will always be a certain amount of people who have to have the latest and greatest products...I just prefer to spend my money on parts that really do make a difference in the end. Thanks
The EK Supreme LT is the same price as the GTz and cools over a degree better. The The Heatkiller is $12 more and performs 2.5*C better. I don't see what is not to like.
EK Supreme LT
sigh. Car rads can be aluminum because they have antifreeze.
What is the difference between the regular hk 3.0 and the lt edition. Is it only the POM (acetal)?
You cant use 100% water in your loop....you need to have some kinda additive to protect the metals and stop bacteria from growing.
I normally use 84% distilled water + 15% antifreeze + 1% water wetter.
right. i own it myself, performance is equal to the cu version,so its in no chart,
the lt has lesser fin amount,only slightly worser cooling,but better flow,and is cheaper. it also lacks the quad nozzle and the stainless steel plating on top (just the lookings)
Yes you can. I use only distilled water. No additives at all. It performs better than anything else.
All this arguing over what parts and liquids are better is moot however, because of this:
F430 - we need to know how much you plan to spend.
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