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The same old Fan setup Question

FireFox

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Sup Guys

like every human being sometimes i have doubts too.:)


My Fan setup = Negative pressure

20181228_130730.jpg


My doubts/question are:

1- The fans in the bottom chamber could they affect in any way the Negative pressure?
2 - What could happen if i set the front intake Fans at 1900RPM and the top/rear exhausts lets say to 1000RPM?

Thanks in advance.
 

hat

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What's this intake-exhaust? Out of the 4 fans at the bottom, some are blowing in and some are blowing out? That doesn't seem efficient. Those fans might be fighting eachother, or just pushing in cold air and sucking it right back out.

If it were me, I might try setting it up so the 3 in the front and the 4 at the bottom are intake, and the 3 on top and the one in the back are exhaust. It will create positive pressure for sure, but it would create a nice flow through the case. If you can control the fans independently, maybe set the intake fans as slow as possible in this configuration, while running the exhaust fans faster.
 
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Firstly, sweet rig. looks really nice^^ negative pressure, In my experience, works best when you have a big open air cooler.But I agree with hat in all honesty, also as heat rises , it would create a very good airflow in the case.

Btw are those radiators in the case? sorry i am being blind. also i notice you have a water chiller so does that do all the heat removal? Personally if you have 2 rads i would have one on the bottom intake, one on the front intake, then rear and top exhaust. I like all rads to be intake for maximum cooling.

also keeping the exhaust fans higher RPM would ofc make better negative pressure to removal all heat. if you were really set on negative, you could put all fans except bottom in exhaust. IK most cases aren't set up to push exhaust in the front but i have done this before with open air 390 CFX in a corsair air 540 and it worked great (no bottom fans but everything else on exhaust, yep, i had no intakes. intake was through the various grills passively. dust magnet tho^^). in your case not a lot of heat is going to be generated by internal components.

Sorry im rambling
 

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Don't think he has any rads... not traditional ones, anyway. The water chiller itself is the rad.
 

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What's this intake-exhaust? Out of the 4 fans at the bottom, some are blowing in and some are blowing out?

I know it is funny.

The 4 fans at the bottom pull air inside the case through the right panel and push is out through the left panel

I might try setting it up so that the 4 at the bottom are intake,

In fact they are intake and exhaust too:laugh:

Btw are those radiators in the case?
Don't think he has any rads... not traditional ones, anyway. The water chiller itself is the rad.

There is just one in the front.

Here you can see the Rad:

20181222_165951.jpg
 

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Can you move the rad to the top? You're pushing fresh air through the rad, which is going to heat it before it even gets to anything else.

Or not. I forgot about the chiller... it might have a cooling effect instead, or at least balance it out.

Still, I would try setting it up like I mentioned before, if you feel like messing around with it.
 
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Ok in this setup i would have front rad = intake, bottom = intake, top = exhaasut , rear = exhaust. as heat rises/ yes the rad at the front is going to heat the case, BUT in this situation all the components are under the loop. VRM's aren;t going to mind a bit of warm air honestly, as long as it is moving out of the case fast enough (which it is, from the top and rear). the bottom on full intake IMO, is best option as it will help cool the air from the rad in the front and heat naturally rises,. contributing to the overal airflow of thecase :)
 

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Ok in this setup i would have front rad = intake, bottom = intake, top = exhaasut , rear = exhaust

First pic i posted shows that it is set up that way;)

in your case not a lot of heat is going to be generated by internal components, in this situation all the components are under the loop. VRM's aren;t going to mind a bit of warm air honestly, the bottom on full intake IMO, is best option as it will help cool the air from the rad in the front and heat naturally rises,. contributing to the overal airflow of thecase

There is a point i forgot to mention: The temperature inside the case is between 10c/15c below ambient temperature ( 25c )
 
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First pic i posted shows that it is set up that way;)



There is a point i forgot to mention: The temperature inside the case is between 10c/15c below ambient temperature ( 25c )

Ah right sorry I'm being dumb and/or blind lol. But i think is best setup for you :D

Ah yeah wit the water chiller even the CPU and GPU warming that air in the front rad, it's going to still be pretty chilly in there. So there's no issues then :D

it's an awesome setup. you thinking of getting a 9900K any time? 8086K at 5.3 is pretty damn nice but there's always moar cores to be had :3
 

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you thinking of getting a 9900K any time? 8086K at 5.3 is pretty damn nice but there's always moar cores to be had :3

Not really, more than 6 cores just for Gaming aren't needed;)
 
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True enough:)

but

BENCHMARKS!

Ergh. I guess that argument is pointless really unless you have a W-3175X at 5 ghz with a waterchiller lol.
 
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You shoot yourself in the foot by running a rad or rads with a chiller. You give away cooling power by doing that. Just a fyi.
 
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FireFox

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You shoot yourself in the foot by running a rad or rads with a chiller. You give away cooling power by doing that. Just a fyi.

Explain a little bit more i am curious
 
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It's simple really ...

Fan orientation is basically a function of location:

A. Air Cooling: The default is as follows:

Rear = Out
Bottom = In
Front = In
Top = Out

You can not use the default when ....

a) water cooling
b) you don't have 1.33 to 1.5 as many ins as outs

There are four misconceptions which if you can not shake, you will have trouble understanding air cooling:

a) Forget what you learned in 8th grade earth science ... yes hot air rises ... but only in the absence of other factors... like fans spinning at 1000 rpm. The force created by heat rising is of co consequence as the temperature differential (air density) in a PC case is so far past being insignificant. Remember ventilation of enclosed spaces is not a new science. Been here for 1000s of years in its most basic from. The design concepts for a case are the same for any enclosed space, like a room, house or anything else.

b) You do not need fans blowing in two directions. Have an exhaust fan in your kitchen ? ... where's the intake fan ? How about when you put a fan in a bedroom window ? ... do you put another one in blowing opposite way ? No because it is not needed. And unlike your kitchen and bedroom, you don't have an entire wall poked full of holes to let air / in or out.

c) Fans produce anywhere near there published specs ... expect half. When you see 50 cfm @ 1.2 SP, that means 50 cfm @ 0 sp and 1.2 DP @ 0 cfm ... reality -means in the neighborhood 25 cfm @ 0.6

d) Dust is not the major concern in a negative air pressure situation. Here's a common PC case fan mount arrangement

Bottom = 2
Top = 3
Front = 2
Rear = 1

So 4 in and 4 out, sounds OK right ? Nope. The 4 intakes have dust filters which means depending on how clean they are . You are losing anywhere from 1/3of your flow from dust filters depending on how much dust they have collected. Let's say the fans are pushing 40 cfm so the front and bottom fans giving you 4 fans x 40 cfm x 2/3 = 107 cfm ... the other 4 unrestricted are pulling out 160 cfm. The balance is coming in thru the vented flot covers and the giant grille on the back of the case. But what are we concerned about bsides dust then ? How about that 250 watt GFX card exhaust ? Some of that is making it out thru that rear vent. What about the exhaust from that 750 watt PSU ? Much of that is being sucked right back in.

B. Water Cooling: The default is as follows:

a) All Rad fans blow in, no exceptions. Why ?

1) What's hotter, air outsede the case or air inside the case ? I we can safely presume that you bought the AIO or CPU water block to keep your CPU cool, we must say "it's a given" that the central goal here is to cool the CPU ? So if ambient outside the case is 22C and air inside the case is 25C, then here's your choices with a system designed for 10C delta T:

Heating Removed w/ Ambient Air =150 (watts) a C (heat coefficient) x (water temp 32C - ambient) 22C = 1500C
Heating Removed w/ Inside Case Air =150 (watts) a C (heat coefficient) x (water temp 32C - ambient) 25C = 1050C

By using outside air you are getting 50% more CPU cooling. If your goal is to cool the components that you invested "Mucho Dinero" in, then those components should be your primary concern. But id the science is out, we can always look at what the folks who are "do this for a living" say and read the instruction manual (in this case Corsair) say:

H100i.jpg


2. As for "But what about the extra heat that's now inside my case ?" ? ... so what ? If your memory is 28C instesad of 25C, is it going to fail or perform better ? recognize that if you have designed your case cooling properly ... (1) 120mm fan for each 50 - 75 watts or (1) 140mm for each 75 - 100 watts, you are likely turning over the entire case volume 1.5 to 2.0 times per second. What component are you concerned about that is getting 2C hotter ? And what's worse, pushing air into the case that is preheated by a 150 watt CPU ... oir sucking air in thru the rear grille that is preheated by a 250 watt GFX card and 750 watt PSU exhaust ?

A $30 investment can help you see very easily what is going on ...

https://www.amazon.com/CHAUVET-H700-Hurricane-Machine-Machines/dp/B0002D0JX8/

We used to use it on every build .... but after a while we learned that if we had 1.3 times as many in's as outs , we were not sucking in air thru thr rear grilles. If you lazy about keeping filters clean, I'd go to 1.5


1- The fans in the bottom chamber could they affect in any way the Negative pressure? .... The 4 fans at the bottom pull air inside the case through the right panel and push is out through the left panel
2 - What could happen if i set the front intake Fans at 1900RPM and the top/rear exhausts lets say to 1000RPM?

1. Depends on how sealed the bottom chamber is. I am assuming that there is some type of heat exchange behind this fans and that ambient air is being sucked in across that heat exchanger creating positive pressure which will be pushed out thru the front (dont see a fan there) , back, left side, bottom and to a lesser extent up theu the top panel. What goes thru which side depends upon relative the "free area" (sum of all openings) in each panel.

However if there is no radiator or heat exchanger in that bottom section, then the fans are basically doing noting. That whole bottom section essentially serves no purpose.

With (3) in (filters assumed) and (4) out you will likely have as much as twice the air being sucked out as coming in thru fan openings ... Obviously with the GFX card water cooled, sucking in hot exhaust is not an issue. The only potential impact other than dust that I see is the PSU exhaust and the rear exhaust from the bottom chamber getting sucked back in.

I don't quite understand the "chiller" concept. I see the tubes leaving the case to what I assume is the off image chiller. If the coolant cooling is provided by the chiller itself, then what is the radiator for ? I would expect, at least in summer, ambient air is warming the coolant.

With a Chiller in the loop, Id have the 3 fans in front blowing in, 1 at the rear and the chiller handling everything else. But can't think of a use for the bottom section. Do you have any tenmp sensors int the loop or in the case to measure air temps ? It's insta;; a teeo in the inlet and outlet to the case an meaore the coolant temp leaving and coming back into the case ... I use 6 of them (1 in and 1 out for each rad plus case air and ambient) and display thm on a 6 channel display.
 

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However if there is no radiator or heat exchanger in that bottom section, then the fans are basically doing noting. That whole bottom section essentially serves no purpose.

That is what i think too.

I don't quite understand the "chiller" concept. I see the tubes leaving the case to what I assume is the off image chiller. If the coolant cooling is provided by the chiller itself, then what is the radiator for ? I would expect, at least in summer, ambient air is warming the coolant.


That is right the coolant cooling is provided by the chiller itself and the Radiator has a big role in the loop because with the Rad placed in the front with 3 fans intake attached to it when the water gets really cold the temps inside the case drop drastically ( as mentioned before 10c/15c below ambient temperature ) and that means that the air circulating inside the case it is not hot air but instead cold air, at this point it shouldn't matter how the fans are mounted considering there is not heat inside the case to remove?

Do you have any tenmp sensors int the loop or in the case to measure air temps ? It's insta;; a teeo in the inlet and outlet to the case an meaore the coolant temp leaving and coming back into the case

I have a Temperature Humidity dew point Meter inside the case and the Waterchiller as you can see in the pic above has it is own Water temperature sensor.
 
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Explain a little bit more i am curious

As John said, your goal with a chiller is to cool the CPU and GPU. Everything else inside the case is fine ambiently aircooled. There is no performance increase to be gained by allowing the rad to basically steal cold from your chiller just to dump into the case to be exhausted, when you could be using that cold more toward your CPU and GPU, or just saving the load on the chiller even.
No rads with sub ambient liquid is pretty much rule of thumb.
 

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As John said, your goal with a chiller is to cool the CPU and GPU. Everything else inside the case is fine ambiently aircooled. There is no performance increase to be gained by allowing the rad to basically steal cold from your chiller just to dump into the case to be exhausted, when you could be using that cold more toward your CPU and GPU, or just saving the load on the chiller even.
No rads with sub ambient liquid is pretty much rule of thumb.

You are right.

I tested the loop with and without Rad and the difference is just 2c/ 3c in summer and in winter there's no difference and considering that CPU and GPU run cool enough i decided to sacrifice those few degrees and keep the inside cool too.
 
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You are right.

I tested the loop with and without Rad and the difference is just 2c/ 3c in summer and in winter there's no difference and considering that CPU and GPU run cool enough i decided to sacrifice those few degrees and keep the inside cool too.
I understand.
I speak from a benchmarking standpoint, so that 2-3 degrees makes a difference to me.
On a daily rig, it probably wouldn't.

Thanks for explaining your reasoning. :)
 

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Neat info.

I suspected as much when it was mentioned; the rad has the opposite effect: you're actually warming the coolant (as it's below ambient) rather than cooling it, like it would in a normal setup. But you do get cold air in the case as a tradeoff.
 
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Wow @John Naylor that's a lot of info^^ very true and correct though.

I feel like an idiot now. I like to suggest things but in reality I guess i know very little. Maybe i should just not recommend things. I had this thought the other day. I'm too fickle and impulsive to make really good decisions. T_T
 

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Neat info.

I suspected as much when it was mentioned; the rad has the opposite effect: you're actually warming the coolant (as it's below ambient) rather than cooling it, like it would in a normal setup. But you do get cold air in the case as a tradeoff.

My loop runs this way: Waterchiller- CPU-GPU-Res+Pump Rad and back to the Chiller,that been said i guess that the water that cool the CPU hasn't lost any efficiency since it comes directly from the Chiller and when the water goes back from the Rad to the Chiller those 2-3 degrees that the Rad add i guess won't affect that much the cold water ( 4 liters ) in the Chiller?

That is just a/my theory i could be wrong.
 
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Interesting. I wouldn't expect the rad to add anything to temps when set up that way. Even more interesting to me is that the coolant is still cold enough to have that cooling effect after hitting the CPU and graphics card...

That rad must really be something to have a greater effect on temps than the CPU and graphics card, but I guess that's what they're designed to do, after all...
 

FireFox

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Even more interesting to me is that the coolant is still cold enough to have that cooling effect after hitting the CPU and graphics card...

I guest it's because the amount of coolant flowing through the Loop? ( if i am not mistaken 6 liters)

At the end i have a GPU+CPU that run cooler than the average Watercooled GPUs and CPUS out there plus very low temperatures inside the case to keep cool enough Motherboard, RAM, SSD/HDD and VRMs
 
Last edited:

hat

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System Name Starlifter :: Dragonfly
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Cooling Cryorig M9 :: Stock
Memory 4x4GB DDR3 2133 :: 2x8GB DDR4 2400
Video Card(s) PNY GTX1070 :: Integrated UHD 630
Storage Crucial MX500 1TB, 2x1TB Seagate RAID 0 :: Mushkin Enhanced 60GB SSD, 3x4TB Seagate HDD RAID5
Display(s) Onn 165hz 1080p :: Acer 1080p
Case Antec SOHO 1030B :: Old White Full Tower
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Ah yes, good point. It would take a lot to heat up 6 liters of coolant. It's really an interesting setup you have there.
 

FireFox

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Ah yes, good point. It would take a lot to heat up 6 liters of coolant. It's really an interesting setup you have there.

And would believe me if i tell you that i am tempted to get a Phase Change:D
 
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