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You're going to be a very happy man when you start doing some gaming benchmarks. My before and after results were jaw-dropping (up to 60% improvement in some instances from Zen 2).



Relax, mine is 2020 Week 40 and is doing just fine with C-states disabled. Sounds like yet another one of those generalised myths that the tech community like to hype up.
Actually, the 1440p benchmarks weren't all that jaw-dropping at all.
Scratches head smiley required.
 

tabascosauz

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Actually, the 1440p benchmarks weren't all that jaw-dropping at all.
Scratches head smiley required.

On my end the difference was minor; stuttering was reduced a fair amount for me. But unlike you I'm also still playing on a 60fps framerate limiter in Nvidia control panel.

On paper there was a 400MHz difference, but I went from a Zen 2 Core 0 that couldn't maintain 4250MHz effective, to a Zen 3 Core 0 that does 4850MHz effective all day long. So more like a 600MHz+ difference. Moreover, Windows scheduler tried to keep loads on the best cores (Cores 5+7), but often times the load inevitably came back to Core 0, which is even more a problem because Core 0 and Core 7 are literally on opposite ends of the chip in different CCX. On the 5900X the load never goes outside of Core 0 and Core 1, Core 1 is actually slightly better and hits 4.9GHz effective sometimes.

Also apparently I can't RMA my 3700X without "proof" that I've at least attempted AMD's "very useful" troubleshooting suggestions that I've already done and said I did; I'm not risking my 5900X's pins just to get some 3700X screenshots for AMD's bonehead support dept, and there's no GPU output if swap it with my 4650G.
 
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Actually, the 1440p benchmarks weren't all that jaw-dropping at all.
Scratches head smiley required.

Try some games that are actually CPU-bound. Minecraft modpacks are a great reference because they only use four threads and the maximum FPS will be identical on any graphics card. My averages and minimums jumped over 50% when I tested Zen 3 after upgrading from Zen 2. Your mileage may vary.

If you're playing games like Shadow of the Tomb Raider at 1440p, I wouldn't be expecting major improvements either.
 
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First time I've ever got a modular power supply and it's a stunner, it's a Be Quiet! Straight Power 11 650W 80 Plus Platinum fully modular unit that I got on a sale for US$125.

Yeah the ripple isn't as good as the Corsair units and it doesn't have a fan stop mode, but I love the Silent Wings 3 fans and the internal components are very high quality. PCB soldering looks good. A very well-built unit that will finally rid my Ryzen system of the Zalman mustard/tomato cable rats nest.
I have the 750 Watt variant. Two things that I find odd are the weird connectors (like 2 sata plus 2 molex connector, why not separate?) and the heat shrink over zip-tie. Other than that it's a great silent psu.
 

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Got a new board yesterday, installed it already and flashed the newest BIOS. :toast:

It's dead. Continuing with my old B450 until I get cash to get an another one. Fuck. :/
 

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Keullo-e

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Keullo-e

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Is that a split in the board? And the hole at 3 o'clock?
To be honest and quoting Tupac, I don't give a fuck.

I'm more or less drunk atm so I'll report later. :D
 
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Is that a split in the board? And the hole at 3 o'clock?
Looks like a scrape/gouge in the PCB. Across a significant amount of RAM traces. It's definitely deep enough to expose the copper traces, so it might well be deep enough to have severed some of them. My guess is the source is a slipped screw driver, or possibly a mounting screw attached to a cooler that was dropped. The hole is a CPU cooler mounting hole.

I mean, theoretically that should be repairable. Scrape off the solder mask on the affected traces a bit out from the scrape on each side, then solder a bodge wire across the cut. That would of course require some rather insane precision given how tiny these traces are. And of course there's no guarantee that it would actually work, given how sensitive RAM traces are to timing differences due to trace length. A bodge will inevitably extend the trace length by some amount, so ... @Chloe Price Might I suggest you send the board to some enterprising YouTuber or similar who might want to attempt a fix? It would sure be an interesting project to watch.
 

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dorsetknob

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Looks like a scrape/gouge in the PCB. Across a significant amount of RAM traces.
To me this looks like a Production line wuck up
If it was OP then how come the white silkscreen next too and below cover the scratch ?
No chance for a dodgy RMA?
looking at photo supplied this would not be a dodgy RMA
 
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To me this looks like a Production line wuck up
If it was OP then how come the white silkscreen next too and below cover the scratch ?
It wouldn't surprise me if the silkscreen was significantly stronger/more scratch resistant than the solder mask - given that it's a white pigment on a black background it would need to be quite thick to not be translucent and look grey. Solder mask is quite easily removed from PCBs, at least partially by design (being able to scrape it off facilitates repairs where traces are broken or solder pads are lifted).
 

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Looks handy... :D


That doesn't look like it went deep enough to have caused any damage. Have you checked it's not something else?
You just seem to have "chipped" the paint off.

No chance for a dodgy RMA?
It's dead as it doesn't even power on. And no, it doesn't go to RMA..
 
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It's dead as it doesn't even power on. And no, it doesn't go to RMA..
Wow, not at all? No fans spinning, nothing? Or does it get stuck in RAM training (fans/LEDs on), never showing the POST screen?
 

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Keullo-e

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It's dead as it doesn't even power on. And no, it doesn't go to RMA..

Plug that EPS 4+4 connector in! lol

Man that'd suck if it's due to a scratch on the PCB. Doesn't really look serious enough to brick it, if you ask me.

Or maybe it is, pictures can be deceiving. At least one of those traces don't look too hot but it's hard to tell if they've actually been severed completely.
 

trickson

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