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Thermaltake 3.0 ultimate critical pump failure!

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I am seriously lucky. My water pump started making a noise and i noticed cooling was less than adequate. After everything being fine for nearly 2years. I was trying to install the driver for the pump as my asus front base kept showing the pump slowing down to 40rpm from 450=600.rpm.
As soon as i noticed this behavior i should of uninstalled the water pump. If anyone else sees this happen you must switch off your machone immediately. The pump had some sort of blockage causing the radiator to burst poisening my air and effecting my eyes. I leant across the pc to unplug the psu. And then spent 5m trying to get my gpu put safely.
Im unsure weather i managed this untill i try to use the system again. The ram was also effected. My eyes are stinging like mad and im not to happy with thermaltake. I will be ringing them first thing in the morning. If i hadnt of noticed my pc would of only switched off after my componants had been drenched and possibly broken. I had drops of water across the top of my gpu which scared me to death. I immediatly pulled the power. Still. I breathed most of the air and even burnt my hand as i desperatly tried to remove the gpu. This is all at 4.00am. I cant believe how close i just came to losing my system. Lets hope they didnt use too many toxic chemicals in the distilled water. Just a heada up Cheers!
 
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Called amazon and they immediately offered to replace the unit. I just need to print off the label so they can collect the old one.
result..
I also tried another cooler, an X42 which id used on my r290... I sold that card a long time ago and was thinking of using the cooling unit too cool my titan v... that wont be happening now.
The error in the bios or the driver which caused the first pump to blow, has also destroyed this cooler in much the same way. So after 3 days searching I finally found the original amd bracket for the asus crosshair VI hero... I fortunately bought the 2700x which came with the wraith prism cooler. which I thought would be garbage. Its pretty good and holding the temps well. It doesnt look bad either.

I couldn't edit my initial post... anyone know why????
 

aQi

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Seems you got lucky this time. May be its a sign for you to upgrade to something better :peace:
 
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One does not have an ultimate critical pump failure every day :D

Thanks for sharing, glad it turned out well. This also reminds me how happy I am with air cooling...

I couldn't edit my initial post... anyone know why????

I think mods need to set that as an opt-in for you. Topic editing permissions are not on by default.
 

HTC

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I couldn't edit my initial post... anyone know why????

After a certain amount of time, OP will no longer be editable: to fix this, report OP with the explanation and mods will turn editing on for it again. I did just that with a few of my topics.
 
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Just a geeky sidenote: Destilled Water is non conductive :toast:

(adding liquid to my build I've spilled some drops on parts and nothing happened.)
 
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Just a geeky sidenote: Destilled Water is non conductive :toast:

(adding liquid to my build I've spilled some drops on parts and nothing happened.)

It also doesn't cause blockage, poison the air, burn your hands, and kills people.
 
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Just a geeky sidenote: Destilled Water is non conductive :toast:

(adding liquid to my build I've spilled some drops on parts and nothing happened.)

Since these items are shipped thru mail, they must protect against freezing and most units have antifreeze in them. And yes, ethylene glycol is poisonous. I am syurpised the 'specs" don't detail what is in the coolant used.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol_poisoning

There are non toxic versions but you are not going to see that in the specs

The problem with all coolants is that the day they are installed, they start degrading. Distilled water has a conductivity of between 1 and 3 and has a pH of 7.0 ... until it's exposed to air. As soon as the DW is exposed to air, the carbonic acid in their air combines with the eater and drops pH to 5.8 or so within hours. That acidic solution will react with the metals ... more so with aluminum.

https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html

As more and more ions are released the more conductive it gets and the more galvanic corrosion occurs. Thats why we have additives and these actions create solid particles which adhere to surfaces (isially cooling fins) and cause flow restriction. Every algaecide and corrosion inhibitor tho loses its effectiveness and within 18 - 24 months is "spent", In open systems it can be replaced or augmented but not w/ CLCs. With ions moving from aluminum rad to copperblocks , it is more conductive as time goes on. With the dissimmilar metals compounds do form and do clog the blocks (and even exlpode CLCs) which you can see here:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/


https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/my-corsair-h60-exploded.326466/

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/4pxjp2
More reading

https://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-i/
https://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/
 
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Wow... So if we leave our liquid cooling reservoir open some time (filled with liquid and maybe with system running) this will harm the quality of the liquid? Now I get paranoid! :)
 
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thanks for all the info guys... as far as the water poisoning the air. I literally couldn't see properly for the following 2 days. I felt poisoned...

now the behavior which caused the two different coolers to explode in almost exactly the same way, for me was down to the bios. it simply stopped working as it usually did.

I kept noticing the pump would pause for a second, then my temps started to rise until the water turned to a gas and literally melted the hose connector. As well as this the radiator popped on the Thermaltake cooler. on the nzxt cooler the same thing almost but it was just the hose melting and this is while I watched both carefully.
I simply daren't install another water cooler on this motherboard. Thank the hardware gods I had an air cooler to use.

very interesting fact about the distilled water dropping ph down to 5.5.. when left in contact with the open air... :toast:
 
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I’m not sure how it heated the water to boiling point. The system would’ve shut down long before that happened unless you disabled the protection...
 
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@ TheMadDutchDude - it was a malfunction of the boards software and protection did kick in, just too late to save the radiator and pump.

the temps rose very quickly and even with me sat 2 feet away I was unable to do anything about it.

the replacement arrived from amazon, but the driver wouldnt accept the return. and so far no ones been for it. I wont be happy if I end up being charged for the new unit... time will tell...
 
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I’m not sure how it heated the water to boiling point. The system would’ve shut down long before that happened unless you disabled the protection...
Boiling point of liquid changes depending on the pressure.
 

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Time to switch to a Cryorig R1 or a Noctua D15. This is also something that I have planned eventually
 
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that's exactly why clc's should belong in rig builder's contests,not in user's homes.
crappy,noisy,pricey and dangerous.only advantage over high end air is the looks.
what good is a long warranty if it can take your components out in the process.
 
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Just a nother reason for why i stick to an aircooler. There arent much that can fail on a aircooler or be warrent out.

The only thing i can think of that will fail on a aircooler is thermal paste will go bad over time and fan/fans will be warent out in time and fail. But when you just replace paste and/or fan and you are good to go again.

I happy with my noctua nh-d14.
 
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Just a nother reason for why i stick to an aircooler. There arent much that can fail on a aircooler or be warrent out.

The only thing i can think of that will fail on a aircooler is thermal paste will go bad over time and fan/fans will be warent out in time and fail. But when you just replace paste and/or fan and you are good to go again.

I happy with my noctua nh-d14.
even with a fan failure and bone dry paste,a good air cooler will never put your cpu or any component at risk.
 
D

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You could say exactly the same for custom water loops. Scare mongering imo. Search on the Corsair forum for leaking aio, there is 17 threads out of how many they have sold.
 
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i must agree, ive built many custom loops over the years and have never had any problems "well i tell a lie" a table got knocked over last year and the rig hit the floor and pulled a joint and it lost a bit of fluid but it wasnt powered on so just had to do some drying.
 
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even with a fan failure and bone dry paste,a good air cooler will never put your cpu or any component at risk.

Yeah. Even with out a fan, an aircooler will still cool the cpu to a point.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
even with a fan failure and bone dry paste,a good air cooler will never put your cpu or any component at risk.
Sure... but only because of thermal protection that is in place, not because a fanless heatsink with dry paste will keep it cool.
 
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Sure... but only because of thermal protection that is in place, not because a fanless heatsink with dry paste will keep it cool.
it'll keep it well under TJ when you leave the pc idling,that's for sure.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
it'll keep it well under TJ when you leave the pc idling,that's for sure.
I wouldnt bet on that as it depends on many factors. I've seen a 212 evo get saturated with a 65w CPU as well as a 2x120mm AIO without the pump running.

I'd trust the thermal protections before I would think a CPU at idle wouldnt eventually saturate some coolers and overheat...especially using crusty toothpaste. ;)
 
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