Thick 240mm radiator for 8700k + 1080ti

[gasolina]

I was wondering about this a bit, can a 240mm radiator thickness around 30-45mm can handle these 2, i would not overclock the cpu and gpu, cần this radiatod keepst temp under 80 for these 2? Or i might try to use 280 rad thickness 30-45.

 

[Outback Bronze]

Hey buddy,

Ive got a 280mm rad cooling a 7600k and 2 x 1070's with no issues.

My rad is 60mm thick tho, in push pull.

 

[Staba]

Give em a little headroom, buy the biggest you can fit. Even with good aircooling you can keep them under 80. with 240 radiator you can keep the cpu under 80 for sure and gpu under 60 (with a good waterblock) but your liquid wiil be too hot . possibly close to pumps max temp 50-60.

 

[jboydgolfer]

my Rad is CPU only, i have a 8600K which ive Oc'd to 5.3Ghz Max, & 5.2Ghz for longer periods of time, and i have never run into an issue with coming even close to temp limits, 65C max. mine is a basic H110iGTX, im sure a custom loop of 280mm will handle those two fine, s ive set up similar PC's years back, with a 7970, and a 2500k on a single 240mm, no problem what so ever. just set it up to intake outside air over the Rad from preferably the front bezel, or other location where it can draw fresh air easily, and you'll be fine. 2 or 3 fans on one side (either will do), no need to use fans on both sides, as its redundant, and offers little to no benefit over single sided setups ime, & you'll be good to go. just be sure to install a couple decent exhaust fans on the opposite sides (top) of the case, or both.

 

[gasolina]

I'm in the middle of a project to make a custom itx rig with wc cool around 9L to 10

 

[thebluebumblebee]

Think about it this way:
Do you think you'd have a problem keeping the CPU cool with a thick 120MM AIO? (most likely using an aluminium rad)
Do you think EVGA has problems keeping their HYBRID GAMING GPU's cool with their 120MM cooler? (they use a thin, most likely aluminium rad)

So why do you think that a thick copper rad would have problems with what you're trying?
Might want to look at this: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/radiators-part-2-performance/

 

[John Naylor]

1. There's a size estimator here.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1457426-radiator-size-estimator.html

2. In the downloadable spreadsheets at that link, you can d/l radiator characteristics by size and thickness.

3. What sound level you are willing to put up with is a priority in correct selection.

4. Air cooling will do just fine if not overclocking.... a $45 Scythe Fuma will handle the CPU as good as any $90 air cooler of $150 2 x 120mm AIO

5. If ya want quieter, use 1250 rpm as your fan speed under streess testing. In RL usage, it won't exceed 850 rpm.

6. 140mm will get you about 35% more cooling than 120mm ....

7. At low rpms, 1250 for example, the difference between 45,, and 60mm 240 is miniscule... 122 versus 125 watts ... at 2200 its 205 versus 217

8. It matters which 1080 Ti

9. Let's calculate wattage... MSI 1080 Ti Gaming X peaks at 305 watts in gaming per TPU. yu not OCing so no need to checl MSI AB for what the power slider will allow. The 8700k, let's call it 95 watts. So that's 400 watts total. Now, not all of the heat is exhausted by the radiator and the two will never be at peak power usage at same time ... testing here has shown that the peak power usage (measured at wall and adjusted for PSU efficiency with a Delta t of 10C is about 60% of calculated. Again some of that is not being at peak power and the rest is the heat radiated off into the case by all the warm surfaces, radiator shroud, tubing etc. So 400 x 0.60 = 240 watts.

10. To hit 240 watts, with say and Alphacool radiator, you would need an 80mm Monsta and fans going at 2200 rpm at a Delta T of 10C. A 60mm at 1800 rpm would deliver 180 watts and all that means is that your Delta T (difference between ambient air and coolant temps) will be 13.3C. At 1250 rpm, it would be 19.7 C ... all workable, tho custom loopers will usually aim for that 10C Delta T. A 60mm rad will deliver 217 watts (11C Delta) in push pull... 1250s rpm fans in ush pull will deliver 15.7C delta T

11. With a 280mm rad, you could do 244 watts at 1800 rpm w/ a 60mm At 1250 rpm, the 60mm delivers 170 watts of cooling ... a 45 mm 166 watts. If ya felt the need, adding fans in pull will bring that to 206 watts and an excellent 11.7 delta T at 1250 rpm...that would be my choice. Start with 1 fan in push (blowing air into the case of course) ... then if ya want more cooling, add the 2 extra fans in pull. For the 1250s, Id recommend Phantels F-140SPs .. at 1500 rpm, the Silent Wings 3.

 

[thebluebumblebee]

1. There's a size estimator here.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1457426-radiator-size-estimator.html

2. In the downloadable spreadsheets at that link, you can d/l radiator characteristics by size and thickness.

3. What sound level you are willing to put up with is a priority in correct selection.

4. Air cooling will do just fine if not overclocking.... a $45 Scythe Fuma will handle the CPU as good as any $90 air cooler of $150 2 x 120mm AIO

5. If ya want quieter, use 1250 rpm as your fan speed under streess testing. In RL usage, it won't exceed 850 rpm.

6. 140mm will get you about 35% more cooling than 120mm ....

7. At low rpms, 1250 for example, the difference between 45,, and 60mm 240 is miniscule... 122 versus 125 watts ... at 2200 its 205 versus 217

8. It matters which 1080 Ti

9. Let's calculate wattage... MSI 1080 Ti Gaming X peaks at 305 watts in gaming per TPU. yu not OCing so no need to checl MSI AB for what the power slider will allow. The 8700k, let's call it 95 watts. So that's 400 watts total. Now, not all of the heat is exhausted by the radiator and the two will never be at peak power usage at same time ... testing here has shown that the peak power usage (measured at wall and adjusted for PSU efficiency with a Delta t of 10C is about 60% of calculated. Again some of that is not being at peak power and the rest is the heat radiated off into the case by all the warm surfaces, radiator shroud, tubing etc. So 400 x 0.60 = 240 watts.

10. To hit 240 watts, with say and Alphacool radiator, you would need an 80mm Monsta and fans going at 2200 rpm at a Delta T of 10C. A 60mm at 1800 rpm would deliver 180 watts and all that means is that your Delta T (difference between ambient air and coolant temps) will be 13.3C. At 1250 rpm, it would be 19.7 C ... all workable, tho custom loopers will usually aim for that 10C Delta T. A 60mm rad will deliver 217 watts (11C Delta) in push pull... 1250s rpm fans in ush pull will deliver 15.7C delta T

11. With a 280mm rad, you could do 244 watts at 1800 rpm w/ a 60mm At 1250 rpm, the 60mm delivers 170 watts of cooling ... a 45 mm 166 watts. If ya felt the need, adding fans in pull will bring that to 206 watts and an excellent 11.7 delta T at 1250 rpm...that would be my choice. Start with 1 fan in push (blowing air into the case of course) ... then if ya want more cooling, add the 2 extra fans in pull. For the 1250s, Id recommend Phantels F-140SPs .. at 1500 rpm, the Silent Wings 3.

EVGA keeps a GTX 1080 Ti cool with just a thin 120 MM rad, We all accept that an H80 will keep a 95 watt CPU cool enough.
So how come you need a Monsta rad when you put the 2 together?

 

[therealmeep]

Take a look at the EK XE series, I keep my 6800k and 1080ti cool with a single 360 rad and at stock it doesn't go above ambient. That said it can get pretty toasty with the 2 of them sucking down somewhere in the neighborhood of 4-500 watts with a full oc.

 

[jboydgolfer]

i think i did this one with a 280mm Rad sorry 360, since it has 3x120mm fans it must be 360. it was nice n cool.

 

[phill]

As long as your giving each piece of hardware (CPU + GPU) 120mm of rad space, then you will be fine. Sometimes a thicker rad can cause temps to go up if the air isn't being forced through it, so it's worth keeping that in mind.

Depending on what your actually cooling as well (stock speeds or overclocked speeds) will also make a little difference two

Example, my two X5650's run at 2.67Ghz each, I've a 7970 in the loop as well (not really the best thing in the world for cool/low heat output) and even with the two CPUs at 100% load running WCG, at times I don't see the CPU temps pushing above 40C.
It's on a quad rad admittedly but another thing to remember is that it's never going to be lower than the ambient temp, so if your air temp is about the 20C mark, your water temp at idle will possibly be around 22C to 23C. Plus then when you start putting heat into the loop, it'll rise up a few degrees, so you might be looking at maybe 26C..

But as a few including @thebluebumblebee has pointed out, most things are being run on single 120mm rads without any issues, so I go back to my first point.. As long as you have at least 120mm of rad space per item you're looking to cool, you'll be fine

 

[thebluebumblebee]

Or i might try to use 280 rad thickness 30-45.

A 280 MM rad has 92 or 93% of the surface area of a 360 MM rad. If you have the space, and can get fans that perform the way that you want, (noise level) why not.

 

[John Naylor]

EVGA keeps a GTX 1080 Ti cool with just a thin 120 MM rad, We all accept that an H80 will keep a 95 watt CPU cool enough.
So how come you need a Monsta rad when you put the 2 together?

So does an air cooler... I know of no CPU or nVidia GPU that requires water for adequate cooling in a properly designed and ventilated case. I used to build custom loops so i could overclock, now I do it to make a quieter PC... if I know its on with my eyes closed, it's unaceeptable. And no CLC cooling device ever built accomplished that. Your H80 and other coolers are usimg 2600 rm fans... that's unacceptable.

At the point where the CPU hits 55% CPU load, Im leaving the room.

In addition, the CLC type AIOs are hitting 20C delta T, custm loop folks will usually target 10C. Also.... when cooling a GFX card, ver often you worsen CRM and memory temps... thinking about this. The most common CLC type CPU cooler is a 2 x 120mm and its being used on a CPU w/ 2 x 120mm fans spinning at 2200 or more rpm . So if 95 watts (130 OC'd) needs 2 x 120mm ... do the math ... what should 300+ wats need ? To remove 390 watts from heat from a GFX card, you need 3 times the cooling capacity that you need for a 130 watts CPU.

Custom Loops are usually designed for 10C Delta T
CLC type AIOs will usually result in 20C Delta T
OLC Type AIOs like EK and Swiftech can easily manage 15C

The thing is you are looking at it the wrong way ... one at a time versus a system approach. The GPU is easy to cool, because of the HUGE (by comparison block), at 1250 rpm, I see GPU temps of 39C ... but i don't want to sit in a room with 1250 rm fans ... at 44C, the fans are inaudible. But all that heat is going where ... into the coolant ... and while the GPU could certainly stand higher temps, the coolant is already at 32 -33C with 23 ambient. As that coolant temp starts to climb, the delta T increases and each degree means less effective cooling of my CPU. So if lack of rad leads to more noise and higher coolant temps.... 2200 rpm and 43C coolant. My CPU which was 75C at 33C coolant temps means 85C at a coolant temp of 43C. Because of the small surface area of the CPU block, it is far less efficient than the HUGE GPU block.

This should help
https://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

 

[phanbuey]

^ this. Cooling a GPU and CPU in the same loop is sub-optimal.

 

[John Naylor]

I'm in the middle of a project to make a custom itx rig with wc cool around 9L to 10

How much room ya got ? Can ya fit this ? $165



https://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx

I'd say pair it with a MSI Seahawkk EK X and ya on ya way easy-peasy but those who have them are raping folks on the price with many at $2k

\https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-GeForc...716392&hash=item1a5c3e5eee:g:JX4AAOSw4cBbfga-

Prolly be cheaper to get a card and then a EK full cover water block. Whichever way ya go.... just avoid CLcs with mixed metals and you won't endanger your investment.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

^ this. Cooling a GPU and CPU in the same loop is sub-optimal.

Not really, in CPU loop, you need more rad than would otherwise be needed ... in GPU loop, you have less, but controlling GPU fans due to widely varing loads means whiring noises as it ramps up and down. SLi builds with the cards in parallel provides half the CPU flow to each card which evens out the size advantage. You can do it, but all you are doing is allowing water to reach higher temps which means faster fan speeds required.

 

[gasolina]

How much room ya got ? Can ya fit this ? $165



https://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx

I'd say pair it with a MSI Seahawkk EK X and ya on ya way easy-peasy but those who have them are raping folks on the price with many at $2k

\https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-GeForc...716392&hash=item1a5c3e5eee:g:JX4AAOSw4cBbfga-

Prolly be cheaper to get a card and then a EK full cover water block. Whichever way ya go.... just avoid CLcs with mixed metals and you won't endanger your investment.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/



Not really, in CPU loop, you need more rad than would otherwise be needed ... in GPU loop, you have less, but controlling GPU fans due to widely varing loads means whiring noises as it ramps up and down. SLi builds with the cards in parallel provides half the CPU flow to each card which evens out the size advantage. You can do it, but all you are doing is allowing water to reach higher temps which means faster fan speeds required.

My case should be fit only a 240mm thickness around 40-45 + 25mm thick fan , or another larger model should be fit a 280mm rad, i only use 1 1080ti + 1 8700k

in my case i'm trying to build a 9-10L itx chassis ( for selling purpose ) support watercooling and keep the temp below 80 if possible, i did use some itx cases but the temp quite hot......

 

[John Naylor]

Again... A $45 Scythe Fuma will keep your 8700k as cool as any $90 air cooler and any $150 CLC water cooler. I expect that will be in the mid 60s running RoG Real Bench which is a multitasking application based benchmark. Without OC'ing Id expect mid to high 50s in everyday usage.

Here's a factory OC'd MSI 1080 Ti Gaming X .. it's one of the most "free" as far as how much extra power you can let in when OCing

Again, does just fine with stock cooling

If ya want 2 x 120mm ... the the H240X3 for $139 is your best bet

https://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx

If ya want 2 x 140mm, they are getting hard to find

https://www.swiftech.com/h240x2.aspx

If you were willing to go slightly bigger mATX, a 3 x 120mm fits in this mATX case
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-mATX-TemperedGlass.html

10L is a really really small case 8.5" x 8.5" x 8.5" ... one of those without temp issues is a really tall order

But I have had no temp issues with this ITX case ... fits a 280 ...

http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX-TemperedGlass.html
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX.html