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TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

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Better than nothing! And I agree, they should give you a full refund.
The thing is it only cost just over £5 ,i am not worried about such a small amount
.I got a message back saying

dear buyer, sorry, I'm glad to 50% refund you and u can keep the item, because the profit of the item is very small , and hope you can understand . Is that ok? Looking forward for your reply.
I accepted 50%

I wonder if anyone has ever been given a full refund, even if something is faulty from China like mine?o_O

 
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A couple of years ago a vendor in China sent me 8 120mm Delta 150cfm fans that had the wrong connector on them. He told me to keep them plus sent me 8 more of the correct ones.
 
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A couple of years ago a vendor in China sent me 8 120mm Delta 150cfm fans that had the wrong connector on them. He told me to keep them plus sent me 8 more of the correct ones.
That sounds like a good seller :)Unlike mine bearing in mind the amount for my item is only £5 pound plus.The seller said i can keep it but whats the point if idoes not work.:(Plus the fact his only willing to give me 50% o_O
 
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A couple of years ago a vendor in China sent me 8 120mm Delta 150cfm fans that had the wrong connector on them. He told me to keep them plus sent me 8 more of the correct ones.
I have a similar experience, which I shared with @lexluthermiester the other day. A while ago, I bought the soldering iron set (iron + tips), but the shipment got stuck. After waiting for couple of months, I got in touch with them & asked for refund, which I was provided in full. Meanwhile I bought another iron from a different seller & sure enough, couple of weeks later this other iron arrived to my address. But few days later I received yet another package, containing my original order (blue 60W soldering iron + extra tips), which was basically free of charge since I was already sent, given the money back.

I wrote them one more time, this time explaining what happened & asked if maybe I could make an empty order, to pay for the initial iron (without them sending me yet another iron & set of tips), but instead they told me to just keep it as it is (for free) and apologized for the inconvenience.

Edit
If I remember correctly, the store had 4 and a half or 3/4 (out of 5) stars for its reputation, which is probably the key component in this story. Because if it hadn't been as trusted & highly reviewed as it was, I would have bought the soldering iron someplace else.
 
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I have a similar experience, which I shared with @lexluthermiester the other day. A while ago, I bought the soldering iron set (iron + tips), but the shipment got stuck. After waiting for couple of months, I got in touch with them & asked for refund, which I was provided in full. Meanwhile I bought another iron from a different seller & sure enough, couple of weeks later this other iron arrived to my address. But few days later I received yet another package, containing my original order (blue 60W soldering iron + extra tips), which was basically free of charge since I was already sent, given the money back.

I wrote them one more time, this time explaining what happened & asked if maybe I could make an empty order, to pay for the initial iron (without them sending me yet another iron & set of tips), but instead they told me to just keep it as it is (for free) and apologized for the inconvenience.

Edit
If I remember correctly, the store had 4 and a half or 3/4 (out of 5) stars for its reputation, which is probably the key component in this story. Because if it hadn't been as trusted & highly reviewed as it was, I would have bought the soldering iron someplace else.
You and Biooby hit the jackpot with thouse two sellers. :)I am after a soldering iron set what would you recomendo_ONot from China off course. :(
 
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You and Biooby hit the jackpot with thouse two sellers. :)I am after a soldering iron set what would you recomendo_ONot from China off course. :(
Well, unless you are willing to shop online, your only other alternative is going to be the local hardware (or electronics) store. I actually have electronic store close to my apt and they sell (among other things) soldering irons. However, the cheapest one you can find is around $20, where on the other hand I got Chinese one for around 15$ ... including the spare tips. Weller-type model, with interchangeable tips & ceramic heating element.

But your experience might ... and probably will be different from mine. Depending on the availability and local prices, you might be able to find a nice one for about the same price or so.
 
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Well, unless you are willing to shop online, your only other alternative is going to be the local hardware (or electronics) store. I actually have electronic store close to my apt and they sell (among other things) soldering irons. However, the cheapest one you can find is around $20, where on the other hand I got Chinese one for around 15$ ... including the spare tips. Weller-type model, with interchangeable tips & ceramic heating element.

But your experience might ... and probably will be different from mine. Depending on the availability and local prices, you might be able to find a nice one for about the same price or so.

Well, unless you are willing to shop online, your only other alternative is going to be the local hardware (or electronics) store. I actually have electronic store close to my apt and they sell (among other things) soldering irons. However, the cheapest one you can find is around $20, where on the other hand I got Chinese one for around 15$ ... including the spare tips. Weller-type model, with interchangeable tips & ceramic heating element.

But your experience might ... and probably will be different from mine. Depending on the availability and local prices, you might be able to find a nice one for about the same price or so.
They have lots of them at good prices on Amazon
This soldering iron looked just about right for a novice/beginner to get started doing some very basic soldering. I found it easy to use Thats what u need easy to use. :)

1685809258633.png

Soldering Iron Kit, Tabiger 60W Welding Tools with Adjustable Temp 200-450°C and ON/Off Switch, 5 Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Solder Wire, Ir seems good value at just £16 it has the most reviews.
 
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They have lots of them at good prices on Amazon
Soldering Iron Kit, Tabiger 60W Welding Tools with Adjustable Temp 200-450°C and ON/Off Switch, 5 Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Solder Wire, Ir seems good value at just £16 it has the most reviews.

View attachment 299077
Mine is ever so slightly different but yeah, that's about it really. I even have the small (in my case velcro) bag, with the metal stand, tiny pliers and tin solder tube. Not sure I'd want to have on/off switch on mine, I kinda prefer the simple logic behind almost every iron ... if it's plugged in, it's hot - if not, it is safe to handle. But that's just me & my reasoning.

By the way, mine is also 60W and has temperature control knob just like the one from the pic.
 
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I bought one of these in 2009 when they were $14.95 with free shipping and it's still going strong. Everybody I've recommended them to also says they're great. The replacement tip kits have jumped in price recently though.

Stahl Tools STSSVT Variable Temperature Soldering Iron Station (parts-express.com)
Yeah that's true, and not just the replacement tip kits I'm afraid...

Edit
By the way, I don't feel as if we are off-topic here. It may not be nostalgic hardware that we all love & cherish, but IMO without the soldering (and de-soldering) equipment, maintaining those older boards & systems would be impossible. Whenever you have to remove the leaking NiCd battery, make a small jumper across the chipped or cut board and/or recap the entire motherboard (or perhaps the power supply), it all comes down to soldering sooner or later.
 
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Mine is ever so slightly different but yeah, that's about it really. I even have the small (in my case velcro) bag, with the metal stand, tiny pliers and tin solder tube. Not sure I'd want to have on/off switch on mine, I kinda prefer the simple logic behind almost every iron ... if it's plugged in, it's hot - if not, it is safe to handle. But that's just me & my reasoning.

By the way, mine is also 60W and has temperature control knob just like the one from the pic.
Not that i know what all the parts are for. o_O I get your point about the on/off switch.:)That looks like pro stuff there Bobby prices that is. o_O I will only be doing it for the odd jobs with caps So the best cheap ones hot air blower and the solid needles and that cheap one that he did not think much of,Of course the best was the very exspencive one as you would wxapect exspect.

I bought one of these in 2009 when they were $14.95 with free shipping and it's still going strong. Everybody I've recommended them to also says they're great. The replacement tip kits have jumped in price recently though.

Stahl Tools STSSVT Variable Temperature Soldering Iron Station (parts-express.com)
So thats a good one to get then Bobby.:)That,s all ways the way with replacementso_O Like the one that did not work that i got from China it does not even look like it has been soldiered,I don,t know why it is so loose though.o_OIt is the one Phil recommends i do have another one that works fine:)

I put on here that the ECS board had lights on the keyboard and Mouse lights were working they are nor.The fan is spinning lights flashing on the board no bleeps from the speaker when no ram is in there I don,t know why the .pci pc analyser tester post card is just showing 0 ,s o_OThe fans sounds like a jet engine o_O

This guys good
One of my fav uk youtubers :)

PC Analyzer Diagnostic card errer codes
E1. E0. GPU in orange slot
7F. 7E. GPU in the Blue slot
Power button does not work in the orange slot have to press for a bit to shutdown.
The. board shutsdown properly when in the Blue slot
Does not bleep when no Ram is in
Blue lights on board flashing
anyone got any ideas?
Keyboard lights up brifley when board is turned on.
 

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I spent two years soldering circuit boards and making wiring harnesses for the U.S. Navy. Every one had to be perfect to pass quality control. I like that cheap Stahl soldering station far better than the much more expensive ones we had at work plus it's never failed (something that happened far too often at work). Even at whatever it's selling for today it's a great deal. Amazon and Ebay have listings for them so you should be able to get one where you live. Make sure to get an extra set of tips.

Advice: Never overtighten the retaining ring for the tip. Always clean the tip on the wet sponge when you're done soldering. Always tin the tip after heating it up again. Practice makes perfect; a good solder joint will always be shiny. I always use the highest heat and work as quickly as possible. Circuit boards are wave soldered and require a higher heat setting to melt wave solder. A solder wick and sucker help greatly. Make sure to clean then flux whatever you're soldering. Through experience you'll learn the correct tips to use for various jobs. If you can find 60/40 solder get it, that's my favorite. Soldering is an art when done properly.
 
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I spent two years soldering circuit boards and making wiring harnesses for the U.S. Navy. Every one had to be perfect to pass quality control. I like that cheap Stahl soldering station far better than the much more expensive ones we had at work plus it's never failed (something that happened far too often at work). Even at whatever it's selling for today it's a great deal. Amazon and Ebay have listings for them so you should be able to get one where you live. Make sure to get an extra set of tips.

Advice: Never overtighten the retaining ring for the tip. Always clean the tip on the wet sponge when you're done soldering. Always tin the tip after heating it up again. Practice makes perfect; a good solder joint will always be shiny. I always use the highest heat and work as quickly as possible. Circuit boards are wave soldered and require a higher heat setting to melt wave solder. A solder wick and sucker help greatly. Make sure to clean then flux whatever you're soldering. Through experience you'll learn the correct tips to use for various jobs. If you can find 60/40 solder get it, that's my favorite. Soldering is an art when done properly.
Thanks for the very informative advice Bobby :) I wish someone could answer what the codes mean ,i understand they mean different things depending on what the Bios is
on the board.I have just looked up error code E1.
*The E1 error code typically indicates a problem with the electronic control system in a device. It can indicate a malfunction or failure in the control board, a problem with the thermostat or temperature sensor, or an issue with the electrical power supply*
E0 mentions about pins on the CPU all the pins look good to me.I have put it back in
tried both 4 pins with the same results
GPU in the Orange slot. codes E1. E0 have to press the power button for a bit to shutdown
Gpu in the Blue slot. codes 75. 74 normal shutdown
That looks to me like it is in the slot properly :) I can,t see myself getting this board to work:(
The code 75 generally points to hard drive connection, or other IDE device.
I can,t find 74 code. o_O
Same codes with the drive on.
I don,t think there is anymore i can do with this. :(
I never thought for one minute it would not work:(
I suppose are the E codes ,as the seven ones are only on the SLI slot.
 

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Ruru

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I'll build a P4 machine, dammit! I'm getting my friend's old case (Fractal Focus G) so I can build an ATX system, so why not a P45 Pentium 4 setup :)

I could put a GTX 560 Ti or something to it, but nah, I put a period correct card, a Radeon X800 GT :toast:
 
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20230604_222206.jpg

20230604_222147.jpg

P5WD2-E Premium + Pentium D 930 + 2GB Corsair XMS + 7800 GT :D
 

Ruru

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Leadtek had simple yet cool looking coolers :)
And heavy, considering the backside got a heatsink too. :laugh: (not even kidding, it's a big heatsink covering the back as well)
 

Ruru

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And heavy, considering the backside got a heatsink too. :laugh: (not even kidding, it's a big heatsink covering the back as well)
I had a GF4 Ti 4200 64MB from them back in the day, though its original fan was dead but the heatsink was fine otherwise. It also had a heatsink/backplate on the backside for the VRAM chips there.

1685907535916.png
 
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I had a GF4 Ti 4200 64MB from them back in the day, though its original fan was dead but the heatsink was fine otherwise. It also had a heatsink/backplate on the backside for the VRAM chips there.

View attachment 299344
I was going to mention this one, myself... In fact, those of you who followed my posts in here for years (between 2015 and 2020) may even recognize this one?

When I first came up with "RetroMaster" rigs for playing old games, I hand-picked WinFast A280 ViVo card for the main (primary) graphics. GeForce4 Ti4200, which easily overclocked to 4600 using the stock cooling solution. Excellent card, never had any issues with it whatsoever. At the time it was paired with AthlonXP 1800+ and couple of Voodoo2 cards in SLI, good times!


That being said, I gave up on RetroMaster series due to several different reasons, and disassembled them for parts. Some of the components had been sold, some re-purposed and some replaced. As for WinFast in particular, I traded it for Asus V8200 Deluxe, GeForce3 Ti200 with zero regrets. Both of them are great, don't get me wrong ... but I wanted GF3 for a while, and (on top of that) wanted to maintain Asus motherboard/graphics theme going on, and WinFast just didn't fit into the new scheme.
 
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Alright, here's my 7800GT's backside. I admit, rather ashamed, that one of the screws post broke (and it's obvious which.

It doesn't seem to make much difference in how it's holding together though.

20230604_225951.jpg



Also... seems like the CMOS slot will need replacing. Great. At least I have a magnitudes better socket than th "goofy ahh" socket ASUS used, on a P5B-VM DO that's dead for 4-5 years already.

20230604_230207.jpg


EDIT: ...aand installing XP x64 SP2 as we speak.

20230604_235914.jpg

Left is the bare P5WD2-E Premium/Pentium D 930/7800GT build, right of the screen is my P5Q Deluxe/Q9400/HD7850 build. The new TV that is in place of the ole' 32inch Sammy TV is a LG 32LB5610 of the same inches, except natively FullHD.
 
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It's been a while but I am actually working on something myself. I wouldn't necessarily call it a system just yet because I'm still missing the key component which would be the case. No idea when (and if) I'm going to find it, but everything else is here & ready to go.

This is going to be a Slot 1 system, powered by Asus P2B. Paired with Pentium III 550 Slot 1 CPU, 128MB of RAM, and it will feature GeForce2 GTS graphics, SoundBlaster Live! Sound card and 56k V90 dial-up modem for good measure. It will also feature BTC CD-ROM drive, Teac 3.5" floppy & Quantum Fireball (3.5" series) hard drive, all powered by 300W Codegen power supply.

I no longer have any 3dfx Voodoo cards, so I'm probably not going to include one ... but IF I ever come across either Voodoo or Voodoo2 it will be included separately, in addition to GF2 GTS.
 

Ruru

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Benchmark Scores It runs Crysis
An X1800 or X1850 would be a better choice.


Are you sure it didn't just need a cleaning and relubing job? Fans rarely actually "die". They just get cruded up and need some TLC.
Its fan was already gone when I bought it as an used one. :D

I have a 7800 GT but somehow I want to use that Radeon for a P4 build :)

I was going to mention this one, myself... In fact, those of you who followed my posts in here for years (between 2015 and 2020) may even recognize this one?

When I first came up with "RetroMaster" rigs for playing old games, I hand-picked WinFast A280 ViVo card for the main (primary) graphics. GeForce4 Ti4200, which easily overclocked to 4600 using the stock cooling solution. Excellent card, never had any issues with it whatsoever. At the time it was paired with AthlonXP 1800+ and couple of Voodoo2 cards in SLI, good times!


That being said, I gave up on RetroMaster series due to several different reasons, and disassembled them for parts. Some of the components had been sold, some re-purposed and some replaced. As for WinFast in particular, I traded it for Asus V8200 Deluxe, GeForce3 Ti200 with zero regrets. Both of them are great, don't get me wrong ... but I wanted GF3 for a while, and (on top of that) wanted to maintain Asus motherboard/graphics theme going on, and WinFast just didn't fit into the new scheme.
My old card looked exactly like this. Though it was a WinFast A250 LE 64MB
 
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System Name Adison "Open Space" 19
Processor Intel Pentium II, 350MHz
Motherboard Chaintech 6BTM, Slot 1
Cooling SECC Cartridge
Memory 1x 64MB, PC100
Video Card(s) ATI Rage IIc AGP, Diamond Monster 3DII 12MB
Storage BTC BCD-40XH, Quantum Fireball 3.5 Series, EX6.4 GB
Display(s) LG StudioWorks 57M
Case Adison Midi Tower, ATX
Audio Device(s) Creative SoundBlaster 128
Power Supply Codegen 300W
Mouse Genius SlimStar 110, PS/2
Keyboard Genius SlimStar 110, PS/2
Software Microsoft Windows 98
My old card looked exactly like this. Though it was a WinFast A250 LE 64MB
They probably had few similar cards on the market, with only few differences between the models & various editions. What made this one "special" was the ViVo feature (Video In - Video Out). That being said, I never even tried it out, and the whole feature felt kinda redundant IMO. I just wanted something to keep that could run FlatOut & Half-Life 2. Check out my ORIGINAL POST from way back in 2015 for more info...

Edit
Another Post from 2015

Are you sure it didn't just need a cleaning and relubing job? Fans rarely actually "die". They just get cruded up and need some TLC.
I once had a three year old Thermaltake Blue Orb FX cooler which (for some, unknown reason) decided to stop cooling & overheated to the point of melting the plastic fan assembly. So by the time I realized what is going on & pulled the plug from the power supply, the entire room had that awful melted plastic stench.
 
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