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Unlocked Realtek HD Audio Drivers for Windows 10 (Dolby Digital Live/DTS Interactive)

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Did you read my post by clicking the link? It explains it all.
 

trickson

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He does want surround I understand, so why should he choose stereo if he also says above that he only is/was able to choose stereo ouput (through Realktek/Optical).
To tell you the truth I really do not like surround sound, Personally I just do not like it unless I am in a theater. I do not know what it is but every surround sound system I have ever had I just never liked it. I like full room sound and in stereo or quadraphonic TBH. This is why I use the 7 channel stereo setting on my Dennon. It is just far better in producing the sound I want.
 
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Ok I looked at the Denon Manual. You do not have HDMI on your AVR. So you like me are stuck using the toslink optical for sound until we buy new AVRs. Mine does have HDMI but not at 4k60hz. So we are both stuck.

Thing you need to understand, HDMI can passthrough Lossless as I understand it. I can test both and to be honest there is no perceivable difference in quality. Which is why I am settling on using the 3rd option for me which is optical.
 

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Ok I looked at the Denon Manual. You do not have HDMI on your AVR. So you like me are stuck using the toslink optical for sound until we buy new AVRs. Mine does have HDMI but not at 4k60hz. So we are both stuck.

Thing you need to understand, HDMI can passthrough Lossless as I understand it. I can test both and to be honest there is no perceivable difference in quality. Which is why I am settling on using the 3rd option for me which is optical.
So I am NOT wrong? I thought that I was messed up and all confused but NO I have limitation on my system and I am NOT going to run out to get a NEW AVR system NO way My Denon is FANTASTIC as is!
 

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Seriously You do not know what a stereo is? It is the denon AVR-3802. It has 3 optical input ports and since that is the only connection cable I have to hook the Stereo ( Denon AVR-3802) up to the computer then how else do I connect them? And yes an Optical cable goes from the TV ( Sony 4K Bravia ) to the Stereo (Denon AVR-3802).
But The video card HDMI cable goes from the Computer to the TV ( Sony 4K 65" Bravia) This is of course my "Monitor".

I'm not natively speaking english and "stereo" is a "stereo" (2 speakers) for me and an "AVR" is an "AVR" (amplifier and HDMI switch) for me and a surround system is a surround system for me (like e.g. Logitech Z5500 oder Z906). Therefore my confusion and question about it.

I really don't have any idea why you do it that weird way! Or do I miss something important? PC->GPU->HDMI->AVR->Speakers & AVR->HDMI->TV. Really simple for me, similar I mentioned just in my post above about my PC/AVR setup.

(Is it that your AVR does not support 4k60p? Then hotrippr's suggestion suddenly makes sense to me with two HDMI connections but this looks like some "quirks mode fix" to me but is certainly legit in that case)

So Nahimic works great the Optical cable works the one thing I do not have is any way to configure the speakers in realtech and it only has 2 channel. so there is a mess some where yet the sound is "better" and louder with the on board sound realtech. and Nahimic gives me some really nice surround sound.

What does "Nahimic" mean?

This other thing with optical and only stereo ist what I mentioned in my 1st or 2nd post and which is this whole thread about as I understand. But I can't tell you how to fix this exactly but this thread should give any answer about it.
And about the later 1. I don't understand what you're trying to tell and 2. HDMI vs. Optical: As I said in my 1st post:

Since as far as I know Surround over optical from games and so on does not work but only over 3 analog wires because optical S/PDIF does not have enough bandwidth for carrying those uncompressed streams for 6 channels!? (But HDMI does)

I'm sorry but I've got no idea what "a mess some where yet the sound is "better" and louder with the on board sound realtech" should mean. Technically, HDMI is "better" and none should be louder or not other than what you set in your PC/OS.
 

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Nahimic 3 is a audio tool that is part of the realtech sound card that is built into my mother board.
 
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Yes it is now all cleared up. trickson has a "receiver" with no HDMI and I have an "AVR" with only 4k30hz passthrough.
I cant live with the quirks of using another hdmi cable as nvidia does not have an "audio only" option so it displays 2 monitors even though one is just audio.
 

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Yes it is now all cleared up. trickson has a "receiver" with no HDMI and I have an "AVR" with only 4k30hz passthrough.
I cant live with the quirks of using another hdmi cable as nvidia does not have an "audio only" option so it displays 2 monitors even though one is just audio.
I'm Fricking 100 years old people I call it a "STEREO".
 

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Did you read my post by clicking the link? It explains it all.

No because it didn't make any sense to me and give no additional, useful information for me I think (see ma last post as I would normally and have personally connected and set it up, you will then understand what I mean and what whas my confusion) but now everything solved up with the latest posts from you and me.

Ok I looked at the Denon Manual. You do not have HDMI on your AVR. So you like me are stuck using the toslink optical for sound until we buy new AVRs. Mine does have HDMI but not at 4k60hz. So we are both stuck.

Thing you need to understand, HDMI can passthrough Lossless as I understand it. I can test both and to be honest there is no perceivable difference in quality. Which is why I am settling on using the 3rd option for me which is optical.

So now it's clear what your problems are and why you make it so "complicated"! For the later I already explained two times about optical S/PDIF bandwith and HDMI as you just said above.

So I am NOT wrong? I thought that I was messed up and all confused but NO I have limitation on my system and I am NOT going to run out to get a NEW AVR system NO way My Denon is FANTASTIC as is!

No, you're not. Or at least not in using optical for sound to your AVR instead HDMI. About the other: As I already told multiple times, if you want surround through optical (what I didn't know before today that it's even possible from pc for games and applications because Optical S/PDIF bandwith vs. HDMI what I explained two times) you need to read through this thread and search and try until it (possibly) works for you as others described and posted pictures about those enabled settings in the Realtek control panel.

About the other method you tried through your TV with 5.1:
Did you then connect an optical cable to TV output and AVR input? Do you have sound from the TV? What does your AVR play/show then? Did you have a look at TV sound settings?
I'm not sure if it could work exactly like this or if you had to do the same "hack" to send already encoded audio to your TV which can then be passed through to your AVR (what you now try to send directly to your AVR through optical.

To tell you the truth I really do not like surround sound, Personally I just do not like it unless I am in a theater. I do not know what it is but every surround sound system I have ever had I just never liked it. I like full room sound and in stereo or quadraphonic TBH. This is why I use the 7 channel stereo setting on my Dennon. It is just far better in producing the sound I want.

Just saw this other post from you. But then I'm confused again!
If you do not like surround, so why the hell this discussion about this whole thing to enable and configure more than 2 channels if you don't want to use them anyway?
 
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This will depend on how old his TV is. I also use a Sony and I believe mine will only passthrough DD sound. But this is interesting if he can do it.
 

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Yes it is now all cleared up. trickson has a "receiver" with no HDMI and I have an "AVR" with only 4k30hz passthrough.
I cant live with the quirks of using another hdmi cable as nvidia does not have an "audio only" option so it displays 2 monitors even though one is just audio.

Since you output your vide to the AVR as output/display device, no matter what's behind.
Why not just turn of the 2nd monitor? Maybe it's possible to "delete" this device from the registry directly...?

This will depend on how old his TV is. I also use a Sony and I believe mine will only passthrough DD sound. But this is interesting if he can do it.

I've got a Philips but don't know exactly from memory right now what it is able to do or not to do. Since I also don't need and use this anyway as I go PC->HDMI->AVR->HDMI->TV & projector. If I've turned of the AVR (Standby w. HDMI passthrough) on the PC I see my TV and I think as I remember I am only able to use 2 channels.

Nahimic 3 is a audio tool that is part of the realtech sound card that is built into my mother board.

Thx!
 

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No because it didn't make any sense to me and give no additional, useful information for me I think (see ma last post as I would normally and have personally connected and set it up, you will then understand what I mean and what whas my confusion) but now everything solved up with the latest posts from you and me.



So now it's clear what your problems are and why you make it so "complicated"! For the later I already explained two times about optical S/PDIF bandwith and HDMI as you just said above.



No, you're not. Or at least not in using optical for sound to your AVR instead HDMI. About the other: As I already told multiple times, if you want surround through optical (what I didn't know before today that it's even possible from pc for games and applications because Optical S/PDIF bandwith vs. HDMI what I explained two times) you need to read through this thread and search and try until it (possibly) works for you as others described and posted pictures about those enabled settings in the Realtek control panel.

About the other method you tried through your TV with 5.1:
Did you then connect an optical cable to TV output and AVR input? Do you have sound from the TV? What does your AVR play/show then? Did you have a look at TV sound settings?
I'm not sure if it could work exactly like this or if you had to do the same "hack" to send already encoded audio to your TV which can then be passed through to your AVR (what you now try to send directly to your AVR through optical.



Just saw this other post from you. But then I'm confused again!
If you do not like surround, so why the hell this discussion about this whole thing to enable and configure more than 2 channels if you don't want to use them anyway?

There are only 3 ways to connect components to the "Stereo" AVR system.
1St is RCA jacks.
2nd is S/PDIF ( Or as I know it the cable with the tinny pins round connector.)
3rd Optical.
I do like surround sound when watching movies but not gaming or listening to music or just watching regular tv.

**EDIT**
I ran a test using the Nvidia HDMI and the Realtech sound card and the HDMI sound is less audible low volume, Same volume level switched back to MB realtech sound and it is CLEARER more pronounced and yes LOUDER.
So this HDMI from nVidia crap is just that CRAP!
I would still like to know what these drivers are for? I get an error message when trying to install them and then have to re-install all the old realtech drivers and Nahimic3.
I am no longer confused at all my DENON AVR is working perfectly and is hooked up RIGHT!
 
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I do like surround sound when watching movies but not gaming or listening to music or just watching regular tv.
For gaming you do not know what youre missing.

Since you output your vide to the AVR as output/display device, no matter what's behind.
Why not just turn of the 2nd monitor? Maybe it's possible to "delete" this device from the registry directly...?
Yes many of us have tried it, it doesnt work, there may be a pay software solution but it doesnt really solve the issue at bootup. There are numerous threads sent to Nvidia support about this issue. They either cannot do it or dont care enough to enable this feature.
The 2nd monitor is basically a phantom and is displayed by selecting the ARC input on my tv. It is lame, quirky and not stable. I ran it like that for years but now I am happy sacrificing it. Especially since I just now figured out that my TV supports DD+ passthrough which isnt much but is one less thing I am sacrificing. To be clear I am sacrificing Lossless audio, DTS HD Master, Dolby TrueHD, multi channel lossless pcm in games, etc, by going with onboard optical. What I am gaining is stability, no quirks to deal with like switching inputs to get to bios or get to my AVR osd.

**EDIT**
I ran a test using the Nvidia HDMI and the Realtech sound card and the HDMI sound is less audible low volume, Same volume level switched back to MB realtech sound and it is CLEARER more pronounced and yes LOUDER.
So this HDMI from nVidia crap is just that CRAP!
I would still like to know what these drivers are for? I get an error message when trying to install them and then have to re-install all the old realtech drivers and Nahimic3.
I am no longer confused at all my DENON AVR is working perfectly and is hooked up RIGHT!
Man what are you talking about it has already been said that youre receiver does not have HDMI at all. So how are you testing HDMI? Nvidia has nothing to do with it on your setup. You do not have much choice other than the setup you currently have which is using the optical. So you are correct there.

These drivers enable DDlive and DTS Interactive, they encode things like game audio so you you can hear surround if the game supports it.
 

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For gaming you do not know what youre missing.


Yes many of us have tried it, it doesnt work, there may be a pay software solution but it doesnt really solve the issue at bootup. There are numerous threads sent to Nvidia support about this issue. They either cannot do it or dont care enough to enable this feature.
The 2nd monitor is basically a phantom and is displayed by selecting the ARC input on my tv. It is lame, quirky and not stable. I ran it like that for years but now I am happy sacrificing it. Especially since I just now figured out that my TV supports DD+ passthrough which isnt much but is one less thing I am sacrificing. To be clear I am sacrificing Lossless audio, DTS HD Master, Dolby TrueHD, multi channel lossless pcm in games, etc, by going with onboard optical. What I am gaining is stability, no quirks to deal with like switching inputs to get to bios or get to my AVR osd.


Man what are you talking about it has already been said that youre receiver does not have HDMI at all. So how are you testing HDMI? Nvidia has nothing to do with it on your setup. You do not have much choice other than the setup you currently have which is using the optical. So you are correct there.

These drivers enable DDlive and DTS Interactive, they encode things like game audio so you you can hear surround if the game supports it.

So what does this picture say?

play back devices.jpg


Is that NVIDIA High Definition Audio or am I just BLIND!
 
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Yes! It is A/V going to your TV! Not your "STEREO" :)
 

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Yes! It is A/V going to your TV! Not your "STEREO" :)
Umm..Okay? Yet every thing has to go through the stereo in order to hear it so how does that work????
 
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Haha you tell us. I am betting you have the optical out on your tv going to your STEREO?
So basically you have this PC>STEREO over optical. Nvidia>TV over HDMI. So youre going through a loop to get that sound test which isnt really fair nor valid as a test for HDMI.
 

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Haha you tell us. I am betting you have the optical out on your tv going to your STEREO?
So basically you have this PC>STEREO over optical. Nvidia>TV over HDMI. So youre going through a loop to get that sound test which isnt really fair nor valid as a test for HDMI.
No PC stereo , TV stereo via optical cables.
 
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Yes. That is what I just said. You have to havit like I said. Man I am about to take your avatar as my own right now. lol
 

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I tell you this I give up. Really I can not get HDMI audio nor surround sound audio it's like I have to put out another 2K for a new stereo system!
I am sticking with the Realtech sound card that my MB offers it is still the best and sounds the best and also unless there iis another way like RCA cables I would need 5 to plug into the MB then into the RCA jacks in the back of the Stereo so that vs ONE SMALL cable? Yeah I am sticking with the optical hook ups they are more than PERFECT.
 
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Yes optical is your best option till your STEREO dies. When it does make sure you get one that can passthrough 4k60hz and you will be happy.
Just understand that optical is the best option for YOU at this moment. HDMI is the best as of right now in general.
 

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Yes optical is your best option till your STEREO dies. When it does make sure you get one that can passthrough 4k60hz and you will be happy.
Just understand that optical is the best option for YOU at this moment. HDMI is the best as of right now in general.
See now this clears things up perfectly.
Yeah no plans to replace this sweet Denon just none.

Another thing is that I am getting simulated surround sound on 7 channel stereo all with Nahimic3 and Realtech and quite frankly I would argue full digital HD quality as well. The sound is AMAZING when I use Nahimic3 and flat when I have it off.
Is this what the OP's drivers do? and if so well they do not work.
I really wished you all could hear my system sounds like A true Audiophile setup like and old one for sure yet one that is in the showroom sall setup and perfect. Man the sound is INCREDIBLE Better than ever! The Klipsch RP speakers are JUST FING AMAZING!
 
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I am not sure how to test whether my Logitech g906 speaker is working using the optical output from my Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master.
I believe I have everything upto date - Drivers and Windows.

I did the following Steps:
1 - Uninstalled the Realtek HD Drivers and restarted PC
2 - I downloaded both Realtek R2.80 & R2.82 Zip files as I tried both. (Note R2.80 allowed the Realtek Manager, where as R2.82 did not)
3 - I then extracted the zip file to an install folder on the Desktop
4 - I then downloaded and used the Realtek HD Sound Driver Patcher (A1) from Pihto (22-04-2015) and copied it to the install folder
View attachment 135968
5 - I applied the patch to both RltkAPO.dll & RltkAPO64.dll in the Win64 folder
6 - I then ran the setup as administrator after successfully patching the files
7 - During the installation, a pop-up from Windows Security requesting to install the unverified driver/publisher, which I selected to install anyway
View attachment 135969
8 - After installation completed, I restarted the PC

For the R2.80:
View attachment 135964View attachment 135965View attachment 135966
View attachment 135967View attachment 135970
View attachment 135971
Note in the sound properties, the configure button is greyed/blocked
In Realtek Digital Output Advanced tab, I had both DTS & Dolby Digital Live (5.1) options included
In Realtek HD Audio manager, if the Dolby Digital Live was selected, the Dolby/DTS tab cannot be used. When changing the option as shown above to DTS it unblocks the slider(not sure what the slider does though) - How ever still don't know how to send a test sound/tone through individual speakers?


For R2.82:
View attachment 135972View attachment 135973
Note that Realtek HD manager does not open with R2.82

So, I am not sure how to test whether this is working or not?

What I tried, was to download a DTS trailer demo and ran it through VLC Media Player with these settings and it seemed to be working?
View attachment 135974

So is there a way to configure and test each individual speaker(distance/independent volume), including the Surround L/R, asthe test signal in Sound Manager plays a stereo sound, like the oooold Realtek HD manager used to do in the early 2010s?

For now, I'm going to run with the R2.82 modded driver and assume it working as DTS and hopefully get my surround game on for the first time? I Hope.

Thanks to the modders/Developers!

I followed the way to do this in another thread which made me do stuff with the registry and couldnt get it to to work no matter what and I followed it to a "T" and it just didnt work at all. YOURS however worked and was super simple to do! Only thing I could add is if anyone is looking to try it, download Iobit Uninstaller 9 program for free and uninstall your previous drivers with it for it will also remove all the residual registry items, or you can use cccleaner, but that requires to open more programs to do the same thing. But I did try with the 2.80 and 2.82 drivers, only bad thing I can report is, both my son and I use home theater receivers to do our sound with, I like big speakers and a ton a watts ;), and DTS and DD worked fine with them, but no software application using the 2.82. It was tested on 2 different motherboards a Gigabyte GA-AX370 Gaming K5 with a Realtek 1220, and my Gigabyte X470 AORUS Ultra Gaming with a Realtek 1220-VB. I had one problem with the 2.80 driver on my sons receiver though, his is a Onkyo 5 disc dvd changer/receiver combo and for some reason the 2.80 driver was randomly sending some code over the digital in DTS and DD and made his receiver switch over to dvd mode killing to sound off since it switched to that input then Video 1. I have a Denon AVR-S530BT and dont have a problem at all, but all I had to do was do the patch method to the 2.82 driver, and yes no more app, but can configure it through windows and it shows up that way with DD and DTS, and his receiver no longer switches over anymore.

I cant thank you enough for this method and all the help, so much easier for I spent well over 2 hours with no working the other ways, which are much harder to do I guess if you never messed with it that way with making a registry file, then going into save mode and moving a file into the system 32 folder, then find out what all you did didnt work. Not sure also if its because of my chipset that made it not work doing that way, but since most "newer" boards use these chip units, this worked great for me and decided to go for it and then give up, but to my surprise Im glad I did give it a go, now my games play on my receivers in DD or DTS which sounds completely different then using it in stereo mode and the receivers set up in DTS Neo or PLII Game mode, the separation is astoundingly different. The only reason I was looking for this is I remeber having a older board back in the day that if you got the driver from Gigabyte, not realtek, you was able to do DD and DTS and I went to their site with our "newer" boards and they have like a 12mb patch that did nothing to make this available again to use.

AND if anyone cares this helps with headphone use as well unlocking the Dolby Theater software, and my main headphones are razer tiamat 7.1 v2, which they claim you cant really use them on Realtek hardware, but if you do the above you can select Dolby and DTS software to use with them, AND as long as you make it 16/24/32 bit 44100 HZ, dont suggest you go higher, and enable Bass management they sound outstanding. Also I have Logitech G633's before these and I highly recommend you run them them with the same HZ setting for there is pretty much no bass with either if you go past that for some reason. And with the G633's if you want them to blow your ear drums out, hook the 3.5mm and usb plugged in and it set to pc mode on the headset, using the headphone jack of the Realtek card, front panel is what I was using, then go into windows audio setting, enable eq and turn the bass up some more, they can handle it dont worry, and its NIGHT AND DAY difference then using its software to produce sound. I also recommend getting the dtd and dd headphone software from the MS store, for the Logitech software produces a "echo" using it, and you dont get that doing it this way, and if you like loud bass heave guns, or music, with the G633's or the Razers, youre in for a treat if you do what I mentioned ;) Just Make sure you keep it at what ever bit rate, but its got to be 44100 HZ for even a jump to 48000 makes a difference, and going to full on 32 bit 192K HZ sounds like utter garbage with almost no bass to speak of no matter how much you give it to the EQ. I dont know if this is the same for say creative, or others, if it makes this huge of a difference doing it set up this way, dont have the money to buy that stuff yet, but if you got this chip set, try it and you will see Im right ;) I spent hours and days watching reviews on both headsets including the G933's, which will work wired or wireless, and was killing me for the lack of bass till I accidentally hit the 44100 HZ option and was like, HOLY CRAP, and then tried them all and it made such a huge difference sound wise, and then when I got my Razer's found out it acted the same way, no bass unless I hit the bass management on and then dropped it to 44100 HZ and they just came alive with great sound, which the reviews on it all said there was none to speak of with Realtek, which they were partially correct, turning up the sub, and sub in Realtek software did help with that, but switching to 44100 HZ and bass management on, and was like WOW, but I do like the razers better IMO, due to having true 7.1 vs software based, there is a difference to my ear at least, and Im big on sound and can tell the differences, even subtle little ones. I cant speak for audiophile grade stuff, but give what I mentioned a try and report in, Id like to know since I cant afford much, and got my Logitechs for $30 shipped and the Razers for $40 shipped off ebay to play around with, I couldnt of been able to touch these at retail thats for sure, and I love messing around with this crap, and have since I was a kid, now 48, and no signs of stopping anytime soon if my wallet allows me to get this stuff from people that havent a clue what they are selling for the logitechs mic wasnt suppose to work, it does, they forgot to hit the switch over to pc to test them before selling, and the Razers have a small fray on the cable and thats why they were selling so cheap, and maybe also that they have no bass unless you do what I mentioned. Dont get me wrong, the Logitechs had some bass, not as much as I liked, using the software, but man what a huge difference in it using the 3.55mm jack and usb at the same time and pushing it up more with the EQ with no distortion at all as my old G35's used to fart if I barely gave it a little extra bass to them, I wasnt happy with them at all :(

But again thanks to Dodge Gee for all your work, sometimes the simplest way is the best :D
 
Last edited:

ERGLS88

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NEW REALTEK DRIVER VERSION 6.0.1.8551 + SOUND BLASTER X 720° APP (NOT UWP)
THIS DRIVER IS SIGNED BY ME, NOT REQUIRING THE DEACTIVATION OF THE DRIVER SIGNATURE ENFORCEMENT OF TEST MODE.

ANALOG OUTPUT: SOUND BLASTER X 720°

DIGITAL OUTPUT: DDL AND DTS


DOWNLOAD

WARNING: SOUND BLASTER X 720° REQUIRES NET FRAMEWORK. DO NOT INCLUDE IT IN THIS PACKAGE BY SIZE, BEING NECESSARY TO DOWNLOAD IT FROM MICROSOFT SITE.
FOLLOW THE .NET FRAMEWORK DOWNLOAD LINK:


1 - REALTEK AUDIO DRIVER 6.0.1.8551 (SIGNED BY ME)
2 - CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER X 720° APP (NOT UWP) VERSION 3.2.28.0
3 - REALTEK ASIO DRIVERS
4 - BONUS: MY DIGITAL CERTIFICATE FOR INSTALL DRIVER
5 - BONUS: MICROSOFT VISUAL C++ ALL IN ONE PACKAGE

GOOD RESORT TO ALL
Hi, I downloaded and installed this NEW REALTEK DRIVER MOD VERSION 6.0.1.8551 and it initially worked great. Windows update updated and caused a problem with it. I attempted to reinstall it and ran into a problem with the Microsoft visual c++ part of the re-install it wouldn't close out after attempting to re install it. I also tried to uninstall the Microsoft Visual c++ and had problems getting some of it to uninstall. Do you have a clean way to uninstall the whole package so I can do a another clean install. Or do you have any suggestions on what I need to do to uninstall so I can do a fresh install? Thanks.
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2020
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Hello All, my realtek drivers with enhacers. Thanks for Best Driver Modder EVER mr Alan Finotty!!!!
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