Unlocked Realtek HD Audio Drivers Windows 7 & 8 (With Dolby Digital Live and DTS Interactive)

[funboy6942]

In sound options, game lets you choose 5/7.1 you can then DDL those games in TRUE surround to your home theater receiver.

In sound options there is no setting for that or compression, just vol rockers and such, and your output is HDMI/Coax/Optical/Spdif, it will then be in 2.0, that DDL will decode into a SIMULATED surround sending that signal, to be processed as Dolby Digital/DTS by your receiver, and ONLY way around this problem, is to go with true 7.1 analog out of your sound board of choice. Only a Console game and unit, can encode and decode in true DD/DTS and send the correct signal to the home theater receiver under DD/DTS/DTSES/HDDDDTS/Atmos/DTSX for all movies and games. But if you do not see this as a option to choose from in your games settings/sound config, its all simulated unless you go analog 100% to and from.

Good news though, should you just go analog, and NOTHING sent digital, your sound card will decode and send through the right speakers through analog, so hook up the 3-4 3.55mm to RCA to a home theater amp, and ditch digital completely and listen to what you been missing

 

[Mussels]

Do you have anything I can read that supports this when it comes to gaming, all else is fine, but gaming is sent as 2.0 over DDL, with encoded "stuff" the receiver picks up to try and get the right speaker(s) position for it. Kinda like old DDPLII does, take ALL 2.0 stuff, and decodes it where it thinks the chip is saying to put that sound. Im not disputing the fact you can get 5.1 with ddl, and be right, its when it comes to pc gaming, and not CONSOLE gaming, where ur pc is actually sending a 2.0 through DDL, so your receiver will then decode it where it needs/thinks it to be since it is now simulating 5/7.1 for its not done through analog, and true "GAMING" in TRUE 7/5.1

It would require a uncompressed signal, to do REAL 7/5.1 like a PS and Xbox are able to do. BUT on the pc end of things, best you can do is uncompressed 2.0 through a digital source, like HDMI or SPDIF, WITH and digital source coming from your pc be it onboard HDMI AUDIO or even External/internal SPDIF IN GAMING ONLY. Sad to say but true, so best you can do is if gaming using those cables you will get 2.0 output, and everything from there is simulated in surround.

But I could be wrong and would love to read something that says a HDMI or SPDIF/Optical/Coax and send better then a uncompressed analog source further then 2.0, I would love to read how it does that and eat my words, for this ONLY pertains if you are using your rig for gaming, thinking its in DDL and its true surround, your wrong, and need to go analog and see/hear what you been missing

If HDMI/Optical/Coax/SPDIF did true pc gaming in surround, why is there still analog on the boards, especially 7.1 realtech onboard, if something that new it is on, is too new to put really old OS on it, taking advantage of then having analog, if the digital ends of things are to have made them obsolete? Other then the fairy dust they been sprinkling on the consoles since around OG XBOX, PS2 days, getting uncompressed sound from a game played in said consoles since, they can encode, and decode Dolby true surround, or DTS, and send through a digital cable as such, but to this day, to my knowledge, if it is still PC you are playing games on, and need/want true analog 5/7.1 it must be through analog, not uncompressed stereo 2.0 (all they can do for a PC sound card) simulated as DDL or DTS (something).

BUT I would love to know something has changed that a PC can finally send uncompressed 7.1 like consoles have been doing for a super long time at this point.

Read more in that article, and replies and see

You've got that all muddled

It's either 2.0 stereo PCM *or* (2.0 or 5.1) DDL/DTS (which is compressed)

If you have an encoder card, you can definitely get true 5.1 sound from games on PC over optical/coax toslink.
on cards with DDL support you literally do have an option for 5.1 DLL

you're confusing DDL with the passthrough settings for pre-encoded media

 

[brotherscro1]

If anyone wants to try just to get DTS/DDL I have been using this method from dvojinov since 2017 and no problems so far (I have Logitech Z906 Speakers over optical)
I'm using dvojinov drivers(realtek_hda_8059_DTSi_DDLrdy) which you can find somewhere in this thread (If not I can upload them it should be around page 108) version 6.0.1.8059 ( I have x99 sabertooth ALC1150 codec)
Instructions that I've followed
"1. Install the windows update, version must read 1703 build 15063.332 or above
2Uninstall any Realtek drivers & Reboot
3. CCleaner, clean registry and reboot: disable driver signature enforcement.
4.Install. Accept prompt asking you about installing unsigned drivers. DO NOT AUTO REBOOT
5. registry: add dword32 in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Audio". Add "DisableProtectedAudioDG" of DWORD32 set to 1
6. Reboot
7. Let the DDL Boom your head!"
So far after watching this thread this is the simplest easiest method that I've found you still get that Realtek HD Audio Manager panel and you can choose DTS Interactive and Dolby Digital Live

The only downside is the drivers are somewhat old don't know since have there been any enhancements and will it work on some new motherboards but it's worth to try
The only method so far that ever worked for me since 2017 ( Havent changed reinstalled anything and every windows update so far it still works) and the easiest method to do with no additional enhancements (virtual etc) just simple DTS/DDL

 

[CityCultivator]

In sound options there is no setting for that or compression, just vol rockers and such, and your output is HDMI/Coax/Optical/Spdif, it will then be in 2.0,

Why do you say that it will be in 2.0?
The game see a 5.1 output, the game will send a 5.1 signal if it can, that is very simple.
DDL is done on that outputted signal, and the game does not need to know explicitly that there is DDL going on.

Anyways as you already have the X3, when I get my X3 I can how you how to set 5.1 encoding (X3 already has DDL), so as you can do your own tests.

 

[G502]

I'm using dvojinov drivers(realtek_hda_8059_DTSi_DDLrdy) which you can find somewhere in this thread (If not I can upload them it should be around page 108)

Those are here: http://sharemods.com/ct89upig9f92/realtek_hda_8059_DTSi_DDLrdy.rar.html

But another driver worked for me......

that is the 19/10 http://sharemods.com/dmwlfqpe2h66/Realtek_HDA_6.0.1.8272_DTS_DDL_experimental.zip.html

I took it off as it was in fact BETA driver and 8273 is WHQL so I have it running on my end and uploaded it instead of 8272 there is another beta 8275 but this one acted strange on my end so I didn't upload it .

anomaly was DDL was working normally with beta 8275 ...but DTS -i popped up error msg as you guys explained ..so I just drop it .

This driver was the only thing which worked with my MSI B550M Mortar motherboard with ALC1200 codec in Windows 7. Thank you very much @dvojinov. If you know why your driver worked but all the others didn't I would love to find out.

I post my full solution in this thread: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...therboard-under-windows-7.281211/post-4508041

 

[funboy6942]

OMG
If the game you are playing has a option within the sound settings to change it around from 2/5/7/9.1 then YES, that game will send a correct signal separating those channels correct.
If your game does not allow you so set it as such, and only gives you the options to make music, effects, and the like louder and softer, then UNLIKE a console game, it is only going to send that signal as 2.0, using DDL sent to your receiver which THINKS its being send discrete separate channels, but it is simulated.

Games for PC and different then what is encoded in a movie playing on it. Hence why EVERY game on a xbox or playstation sounds right, but it is NOT the case when it comes to pc gaming. AGAON, if I am wrong, and a compressed signal for a game with actually play in DDL, without DDL tricking the receiver as to what goes where, due to the makers of the game putting cues into the signal, to help the receiver figure out then where to put that signal, it will sound like crap, to me at least, unless you go pure analog, which if you do that EVERYTHING off your pc will sound perfect, without the need of a HMD, or toslink cable. You say I am wrong, even when I give links, like down below, but you say I am wrong without providing any information to rebut what I am trying to help you understand.

THE ONLY WAY A GAME TO PLAY IN TRUE SURROUND SOUND IN 5/7.1 IS ANALOG, UNLESS THE GAME IS SET UP FOR UNCOMPRESSED SURROUND SOUND LIKE Star Wars Squadrons, for it has the ability within its setting to choose it, and how compressed you want it to be depending on how loud the room is you plan on playing it in. Other then that, and PROVE ME WRONG WITH A LINK, it plays in 2.0, then DDL live will take that signal, simulate 5.1 with it, and send it to your receiver making it THINK, its discrete 5.1 dolby sound, making YOU think it is and all is right with the world This is different between DDl and TRUE DD or DTS, AND YES if the game, like star wars I mentioned, has those options, then YES, it will go over Toslink in TRUE DD/DTS, we are talking about the other 90% of the PC games on the market however that DO NOT, no matter what audio card you may be sporting, where the only way around it, if you do not want simulated stereo, or 2 lazy to hook up 3-4 3.5mm to rca cables, then be happy with it, but its not going to be 100% accurate.

Realtek onboard optical (SPDIF) output: I set this as a standard output. I tested Dolby/DTS audio in playback settings, worked fine. I played DVDs/files with surround sound, and my audio receiver successfully recognized Dolby/DTS. But games couldn't. Games output was stereo.
Correct, and this is normal. Movies/DVD's are already encoded in Dolby Digital or DTS formats, which can be carried over SPDIF. Games however, use -----uncompressed audio----, and an uncompressed 5.1 audio signal can ----NOT---- be carried over a SPDIF connection, so you get 2.0 instead. The only way to solve this problem is to get a soundcard that can handle real-time encoding to either Dolby Digital or DTS. [A cheap option is the ASUS Xonar DX [Dolby Support only] or the HT Omega Striker, both going for about $80 or so] Remember, SPDIF can ONLY carry: 2.0 Uncompressed PCM audio 5.1 Dolby Digital 5.1 DTS 6.1 Dolby Digital EX (??I'm not sure on this one??)
Realtek onboard 6 channel direct output (three pin, one for sub, one for front speakers & one for rear speakers): This is the only option where games worked fine for me. I could get surround sound from NFS.
Exactly, each connection carries two channels worth of uncompressed audio, and should work in all cases [provied the source has all the necessary channels, of course]. Unfortunately this isn't a good option for music (mp3) playback and video playback as the Digital sound over optical/HDMI is way better. Usually, the reverse is true. Analog does a MUCH better job of saving the highest and lowest frequencies of an audio track, which are lost in the process of digitizing the audio signal. But unless properly shielded, teh output signal won't be nearly as clear as a digital signal would be.

Please prove me wrong and teach me by showing me a game, without the option to set its speakers and compression within the audio section, like Star Wars, will then somehow play in 5/7.1 over digital, Id really like to know how it is doing this if it is a PC NOT A CONSOLE. There are links all over the googles, like another one I provided you with, to hopefully explain it better then I can, for I have the drain bamage and it is hard for me to do so. But anything played as far as a game, over DDL, or the DTS Connect, is 100% SIMULATED, surround, and you see DD or DTS lit up on ur receiver, for your sound card is tricking it

AVS Forum
Techpowerup
Toms
ARS

I can keep going..................

DDL and "DTS Connect" take a 2.0 channel and upmix it to 5.1/7.1. But by configuring the audio software in Windows and your sound card on either device(sound card or onboard audio), you can get virtual surround from all your speakers.

And again, this is ONLY for the games that in its audio setting does not give you options in it for compression, or how many speakers you are using, for if that option is not there then it sees it as PCM2.0, and DDL DTSC will do its wizardry to it, making ur receiver kick on saying its getting "true" DD or DTS sent to it though SPDIF/Coax/Optical/HDMI. If you run Analog, your sound card will then decode it, AND MOVIES, correctly strictly through the Analog cables, not really needing HDMI or Toslink to send the movie signal to the receiver, just letting your pc and its sound card to handle it, if it is a good one, and call it a day, if, like me, do not want simulated surround sound, and use but one cable only to rule it all

 

[CityCultivator]

OMG
If the game you are playing has a option within the sound settings to change it around from 2/5/7/9.1 then YES, that game will send a correct signal separating those channels correct.

When the output appears as 5.1 why it will send 2.0? That is illogical. If the game has no such settings, if it does automatic detection, it should by default send a 5.1 signal.

Realtek onboard optical (SPDIF) output: I set this as a standard output. I tested Dolby/DTS audio in playback settings, worked fine. I played DVDs/files with surround sound, and my audio receiver successfully recognized Dolby/DTS. But games couldn't. Games output was stereo.
Correct, and this is normal. Movies/DVD's are already encoded in Dolby Digital or DTS formats, which can be carried over SPDIF. Games however, use -----uncompressed audio----, and an uncompressed 5.1 audio signal can ----NOT---- be carried over a SPDIF connection, so you get 2.0 instead. The only way to solve this problem is to get a soundcard that can handle real-time encoding to either Dolby Digital or DTS. [A cheap option is the ASUS Xonar DX [Dolby Support only] or the HT Omega Striker, both going for about $80 or so] Remember, SPDIF can ONLY carry: 2.0 Uncompressed PCM audio 5.1 Dolby Digital 5.1 DTS 6.1 Dolby Digital EX (??I'm not sure on this one??)
Realtek onboard 6 channel direct output (three pin, one for sub, one for front speakers & one for rear speakers): This is the only option where games worked fine for me. I could get surround sound from NFS.
Exactly, each connection carries two channels worth of uncompressed audio, and should work in all cases [provied the source has all the necessary channels, of course]. Unfortunately this isn't a good option for music (mp3) playback and video playback as the Digital sound over optical/HDMI is way better. Usually, the reverse is true. Analog does a MUCH better job of saving the highest and lowest frequencies of an audio track, which are lost in the process of digitizing the audio signal. But unless properly shielded, teh output signal won't be nearly as clear as a digital signal would be.

That's why Creative solution, and @Ferather solution works better than default Realtek DDL. Realtek DDL place the DDL encoder in Windows engine, but do not modify the speaker layout. This cause games to see a stereo output, and those games without output selection will force a stereo out.
Creative solution is simple: take analog 5.1 out, which you know is properly working, copy and encode that signal to DD.
This is the page for analog copy and encode on sound blaster omni:

As you can see this option is meant for those games without proper 5.1 selection.
Ferather does another solution: he complete the setup for Realtek DDL, and also set the speaker layout to 5.1. Games will see proper 5.1 output.
Still, when I get the X3 I will show to you how to set DDL properly for proper 5.1 detection by games, then you can do your own tests.

 

[funboy6942]

I just found this, and it does SUCH a better job then I ever could, but making my point 100% (click me)

 

[CityCultivator]

I just found this, and it does SUCH a better job then I ever could, but making my point 100% (click me)

That answer is 99% perfect, only (extremely) mild issue is in order of connectivity. For maximum quality, I would not choose that order, but for a beginner installation, that order is excellent.
My favourite order would be:

1. HDMI (with proper setup)
2. Analog (ease of setup)
3. DDL
4. Matrix (just forget that, use stereo until you can do better)

Though for gaming audio, I would prefer to use HDMI over DDL for 2 reasons (I would prefer HDMI over analog if possible, but that setup though, is so messy):

1. HDMI supports uncompressed PCM 5.1. No CPU overhead. As good as analog.
2. HDMI can also support Dolby Atmos for Theater, useful for those games with spatial audio. Though that depends on receiver.

Though this setup is also messy, you need to connect a separate monitor via receiver, and set receiver as a pass-through device. And use the additional display as a secondary display, not for gaming, as too often monitor features such as VRR is absent and latency increases.

Analog afterward, I said before.

But then for best gaming performance though, analog has real advantages, and is good for your case:

1. No latency: DD encoding and decoding require audio buffers and these buffers cause some (about 0.1s) audio latency, and they are unavoidable.
2. Use more CPU cycles: live encoding of a 5.1 signal takes some CPU, and this is CPU time unavailable for game application.

Analog's only issue is that it is analog: I prefer to use the receiver DAC rather than carry analog signals over cables, that can get distorted by outside electrical noises.

Now for DDL:

Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect​

The next thing I would check is to see if your motherboard (or sound card) supports Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect (both sometimes given other names). If so then the drivers for your audio device are capable of converting the surround sound from game into Dolby Digital or DTS on the fly. If you have one of the few motherboards (or one of the many sound cards) that support this all you would need to do then is go into the your audio options and enable it. If not then it's possible to buy an add-in sound card that does.

Perfect answer.
As your X3 can also do.
Note that the issue you refers, even if it is real, especially on Realtek drivers, is not referred in the answer.

Final answer, matrix encoding, is not DDL, which is a discrete channel format. it is Prologic, different stuff, matrixed stereo.

 

[funboy6942]

When the output appears as 5.1 why it will send 2.0? That is illogical. If the game has no such settings, if it does automatic detection, it should by default send a 5.1 signal.

That's why Creative solution, and @Ferather solution works better than default Realtek DDL. Realtek DDL place the DDL encoder in Windows engine, but do not modify the speaker layout. This cause games to see a stereo output, and those games without output selection will force a stereo out.
Creative solution is simple: take analog 5.1 out, which you know is properly working, copy and encode that signal to DD.
This is the page for analog copy and encode on sound blaster omni:
View attachment 198108
View attachment 198109
As you can see this option is meant for those games without proper 5.1 selection.
Ferather does another solution: he complete the setup for Realtek DDL, and also set the speaker layout to 5.1. Games will see proper 5.1 output.
Still, when I get the X3 I will show to you how to set DDL properly for proper 5.1 detection by games, then you can do your own tests.

If the game does not have the options for speakers and compression, then how does it take a compressed audio source, which can only be 2.0, then send it through Optical/HDMI as true DD or DTS audio your receive is claiming its getting? Unless you are a HUGE gaming company, like EA, you cannot afford the rights to the license to Dolby to use in their games, so the card will only read it as 2.0, then the sound card has the rights to DDL DTSC, which uses SOFTWARE, to take the 2.0 its reading, and with cues, sends that as true DD or DTS.

If the game was not being read as 2.0, for it again has no options for speakers config, or compression, what is then the need for DDL, or DTSC?? If DTS and DD is just that, and nothing more, then what is the need then to take a 2.0 signal, and fake it? Maybe music perhaps, but in almost all cases, the game you are playing does not have the options within it I have mentioned several times, then no matter what, your pc is reading it as PCM 2.0 compressed, which can only be output though a digital source as stereo. To get around this, there is DDL and DTSC, that can then trick your receiver into thinking it is getting a real DD or DTS signal from ur pc, games or movies, and decode the fake signal as such.

And yes, the Omni, my X3, and SBX and many others, do have that option, as it says, to make your 2.0 sound 5.1 by turning on DDL HOWEVER>>>>
Read above that:

Certain games MUST be played DIRECTY to SPEAKER (not optical option in windows) in order to have the optimum surround audio effects:
IE:
sound from the ANALOG OUT of your sound card, into a ANALOG IN to get real true as intended surround sound in your game, otherwise, click this, and enable DDL which will take that 2.0 signal, and trick ur receiver into thinking its getting the real deal. WHY the need for DDL or DTSC, for without it, it can send to the stereo, and you could just enable DDPLII, but the DDL or DTSC is more accurate. And while thinking of DDPLII (or just PL), why was it ever made to take the stereo signal, and fake surround it, before surround became discrete on its own? Do you not remember on video games back in the day on say playstation, that had the dolby surround logo on it, but had but red and white as audio output, and before digitaL/ Thats because if you had a DDPLII receiver, it did fake surround

Use good cables, and good equipment, and no need to worry about noise, and if thats your worry, for music and all, analog sounds the best in raw form vs digital compressed crap

 

[CityCultivator]

If the game does not have the options for speakers and compression, then how does it take a compressed audio source, which can only be 2.0, then send it through Optical/HDMI as true DD or DTS audio your receive is claiming its getting? Unless you are a HUGE gaming company, like EA, you cannot afford the rights to the license to Dolby to use in their games, so the card will only read it as 2.0, then the sound card has the rights to DDL DTSC, which uses SOFTWARE, to take the 2.0 its reading, and with cues, sends that as true DD or DTS.

Why do you assume a compressed source must be 2.0?
Realtek is buggy. DD is 5.1.
And I do not think EA pays any licensing to Dolby. They do not even use Dolby features, except for matrix surround.

If the game was not being read as 2.0, for it again has no options for speakers config, or compression, what is then the need for DDL, or DTSC?? If DTS and DD is just that, and nothing more, then what is the need then to take a 2.0 signal, and fake it? Maybe music perhaps, but in almost all cases, the game you are playing does not have the options within it I have mentioned several times, then no matter what, your pc is reading it as PCM 2.0 compressed, which can only be output though a digital source as stereo. To get around this, there is DDL and DTSC, that can then trick your receiver into thinking it is getting a real DD or DTS signal from ur pc, games or movies, and decode the fake signal as such.

If the game does not have config page for speaker selection, it will output as it sees the output is, which can be 2.0, or 5.1 depending as it asks for the configuration.
If it sees 5.1, it will send 5.1, nothing to fake.
You mentioned about PC is reading 2.0, and I am telling you that this is false(except in buggy Realtek implementations).

Certain games MUST be played DIRECTY to SPEAKER (not optical option in windows) in order to have the optimum surround audio effects:
IE:
sound from the ANALOG OUT of your sound card, into a ANALOG IN to get real true as intended surround sound in your game, otherwise, click this, and enable DDL which will take that 2.0 signal, and trick ur receiver into thinking its getting the real deal. WHY the need for DDL or DTSC, for without it, it can send to the stereo, and you could just enable DDPLII, but the DDL or DTSC is more accurate. And while thinking of DDPLII (or just PL), why was it ever made to take the stereo signal, and fake surround it, before surround became discrete on its own? Do you not remember on video games back in the day on say playstation, that had the dolby surround logo on it, but had but red and white as audio output, and before digitaL/ Thats because if you had a DDPLII receiver, it did fake surround

enable DDL which will take that 2.0 signal
It will take 5.1 output, as your speaker is set to 5.1, then encode that 5.1. Thus true 5.1, no faking.
You set your speaker as 5.1 when using that solution:

Stop referring to old matrixing solutions (DPL2), this is decade old tech, not even currently used on PC.

 

[Ferather]

I already summarized how transcoders work, games don't see SPDIF in the same way they do for analogue. Transcoders convert analogue PCM to digital, DTS or Dolby, then its compressed.
Games don't actually need to support any kind of compression, they only need to support PCM, analogue. SPDIF is not setup like analogue, you cant detect speakers with it.

When you set HDMI or analogue speakers in Windows to say 5.1, in the registry it will enter codes telling apps how many speakers you have.
Even if a game did detect SPDIF directly, it would have no idea how many channels you can do 2 PCM or 6 compressed.

A compressed digital stream already carries the number of channels within the stream.

----

Imagine you had an audio converter, with various settings, and you have a 6 channel PCM track to play with, and you transcode it to DTS, but set the input to only allow 2 channels.
How many channels out do you get if you restricted the 6 to 2 on input before transcoding it to digital?

----

Try this:

Download my attachment, copy it to 'Windows\System32\' then you need to register it using command prompt admin: regsvr32.exe %windir%\System32\adiapo.dll
Now you need FX config to enter the key at the last place in composite end effect: "{A515262A-68B3-441A-A310-0D145362EE87}"

This will give you DTS interactive with 6 channel input, however you should also do the reg edit.

Using FX config again, select the SPDIF, and on the right press the 'jump to properties key', on the left of Regedit is the master key, right click, rename and copy its name.
Open Multichannel.reg, and enter they key into the DEVICE-ID location, then save it (it will ask to make another file), then run it.*

This wont work with every driver, some drivers for some reason don't support it, you can change the driver however.

*You will need to do this every time you install a driver, the ID will change.

 

[funboy6942]

Analog, if a good card, will do it all in this mode. All I can say is for movies and music, ditch VCL and got for potplayer, everything in one POT. Then you can game on it too, without touching any setting within windows, or your receiver ever again, and will sound the absolute best on what you can afford.

Optical, the Configuration tab is not lit, so you cannot change the speaker settings, so its 2.0 or enhanced 5.1 that is ALL

HDMI, can Configure speakers and then some, but with my Marantz set to Multi 7.1 VIA HDMI input, playing Crash Twinsanity no matter what had HUGE echo added in, so as when I spin, and all environment sounds as if I am in a cave, when I'm in the forest
Set back to analog, and environment all around me again, and when I spin, noise comes from front speaker as it should with NO more echo.

When you get the X3, which you are better off to use it strictly analog, for your sound card, and optical out of your motherboard will do no better at all.

Set up ur X3 and a good receiver/speakers, and see.

I do not use the Marantz Mic and software. I turn everything off in my room, and at a low level test tone, and set up each individual speaker to the same DB start with 0.0 on the front left, then sweep, adding in my sub as I want, and hooked up the way I like, and I have never in my life used a HT in a box set up, its incorporated into everything I own and have. I am not a rich man, but I buy after many hours/days/months/years of research, before at at tax time I feel good about my purchase and its future. I may be old school, but I love it still, and all the new tech I can afford

The only benefit really for these drivers is to use analog, and the SB 720 app so you can use those features it gives, dialog, surround, etc, change though its analog output that you would get if you bought a REAL Sound Blaster card. Also the ability to have DDL, so you can Enhance/Simulate 5.1 from a 2.0 source, for on board, or card, if it is optical, you cannot go into the configurations as a different speaker layout up to 7.1. There for you can only get into its properties and and change from 32 bit 2ch 192HZ (example) right to DDL, for if it was going to be true DD, why the Live added in? For its an enhancement simulated 5.1 surround, and even says so, saying for you to get the most from your audio source, and in certain games, no matter what, you must use and select analog at the output, other wise click here

As for why the massive echo, in HDMI, when set to 7.1 speakers, same as it is set under analog, then setting Amp to HDMI input, multi 7.1 input, there is that huge echo and nasty to the sound of my crash game, and its separation between sounds around me, in combo with the echo, when I have played it many times, always over analog, then switching back, noticing what I was hearing was indeed true, I will now try it over optical, with DDL, and see if it sound the exact same. For I have a hunch, that even with 7.1 selected out the video card audio, its still doing PCM trickery and though you dont see DD lit up anywhere, and my amp says Im getting a 7.1 discrete signal, my pc is still doing a "enhancement to it, tricking now that HDMI side of things and ur amp. I will test and report back.

Well, if I had to game in 2.0 without the ability to select DDL as a option, HDMI is NOT the choice I would go for. After setting up my X3, and windows properties and enhancements, and fired up Crash again, and would say I could really go either way with the sound quality with the sound card. Not sure if it will sound the best, but Im done burnt out messing around anymore. But since I have a 7.1 set up, and at some point hope to afford a 9.2 Atmos receiver, I cannot see going with 5.1, simulated or not, and then going to my receiver then simulates it to do 7.1 from a 5.1 source. Cannot get any better then 5.1 out of Coax/optical/Toslink, so though not unhappy in the least, will still stick with analog then, and get the best there ever could be, for analog is a dirt old tech, been around for ever, and if they did not think it was still the best to get the best, would of gotten rid of it a LONG time ago, and I can just set one setting on both units and tv, and forget it, no switching all over the place to get, IMHO, perfection with what I have. May as well go get a sound bar sub combo, that has Atmos stamped on it, and tell me its doing that trickery with a full set of f/r/s/h speakers out of a bar in the middle of your tv, but dang, I hear that bird in the tree to the right above my shoulder, and do not give me wrong, I heard some, that had me taking a double take, but it still plays on my ocd knowing, its not bit for bit perfect, and I have the means to do so, but its so much easier using one cable, I didnt collect/spend all my money on this stuff for its kinda been ur hobby your whole life, I will just "make do"

 

[Mussels]

I ran dolby digital live for years, probably close to a decade.
Windows sees it as 5.1, and it sends 5.1 sigals out

If your game supports 5.1, you get 5.1. End of story.
If your audio is 2.0 (youtube) you get 2.0, end of story.

If you want your 2.0 upmixed to virtual surround without positional audio, thats an entirely different thing.

 

[Ferather]

Not all drivers, driver policies and sometimes OEM locks can restrict SPDIF input for the transcoder to 2 channels, regardless of upmixing.
In addition the older X-Fi's dont pass 5.1 to SPDIF, they transcode from analogue (speaker) out, then send to SPDIF.

 

[funboy6942]

Im not disputing that live does not send a 5.1 signal through Spdif if I select live, I know how that works. Im trying to tell you that not a lot of games support sending a TRUE 5/7.1 surround sound through Spdif, or HDMI, and ONLY way around it for games that do not support that option, to get real surround sound as intended it has to go through the cards analog. Games set up for such, will play just fine I been saying this. But if your games audio options just give you a sound mixer to play with, setting 7.1 in HDMI configuration, or clicking on just DDL, will NOT make that game true 5.1 through those settings at all.

Again, find me something on the interwebs to prove I am wrong about what I am saying. I am trying to help other understand, if they want the best sounds, and surround in the other 90% of the games on the market without those options, really to have it sound as intended then go analog. PC gaming, licensing for the Codex to allow their games work in real surround through HDMI, or SPDIF, most game makers do not want to do that. If DDL was just a fancy way of calling it DD, then why even bother if it did not up mix to a receiver, fake I mind you, but your receiver will see it as a real, separated 5.1 signal, but it is being lied to. Movies are totally different, and will work just fine with DDl enabled or not over the Spdif, or HDMI, because they are already incoded with the DD proper signal. Same goes for Consoles, and gaming on them, they are set up as DD on everything, and you do not see in the options of them, to switch between PCM/DD/DTS, but where the heck is the DDL feature if DDl is true DD, just stuck live after it?

I am asking, for I have given several links to read with what I am trying to say, if gaming on a pc, and do not want any enhancements screwing with your game sounds at all. Try the enhanced drivers on a realtech card, the SB stuff will no produce any different sounds, extra bass, surround, crystilizer at all when output is set to Spdif digital, or HDMI. On top of this, do what I have done for many years before this, and just did and things did not change as far as I can hear. Play your favorite game, one you have played for ever over Digital or HDMI, then hook it up as analog, mind you I am talking about a game that gives you volume rockers in the audio setting, not channels or compression along with all that. You will/should hear a difference.

Even Creative, in the sound blaster app for you card flat out tells you what I am trying to say, see pic above by other member for it states:

Certain games MUST be played DIRECTY to SPEAKER (not optical option in windows) in order to have the optimum surround audio effects. I did not pull this out of my butt, it says that with the included picture several post above in a pic shared, and MY X3 still says this as well if I do not click on the Dolby 2.0-5.1 upscale?

If Creative themselves have it right there for you to read, why is it I am getting fought with trying to help you do real true surround sound through analog, if you want it to be 100% bit for bit as intended perfect if you ditch Digital, and HDMI? Why the bother for this driver if your sole purpose is to try and get your realtech card to have the DDL option given to it, or Video Card. If you have the means, I am trying to tell you that Analog is still the way to go for best compatibility, sound quality, and separation, with more options on the driver level to set the mood, or type of speakers you are driving.

And again, if Analog was not still considered to be the best way to get the best out of your card, and enjoy all it has to offer to you in terms of messing with the signal and all the changes you can make, and Digital/HDMI (which btw Spdif/Coax is old as dirt too), is considered the way of the future for PC gaming, why is it still offered on its lowest to highest cards, or even motherboards for that matter. PROVE ME WRONG!!! Give me a link showing this please and I will eat my words on it all!!!!! Why bother then still making 7.1 analog out on cards or boards, and just be like a console and have HDMI or Spdif only on it?

My first recommendation would be to check to see if your receiver has an analogue multi-channel input. This is fairly common in older AV receivers, and very uncommon in newer ones. If so you can get surround sound by connecting the multi-channel analogue audio output jacks at the back of your PC to the multi-channel input of your receiver. Not all PCs have will have these jacks but most do. This pretty much the superior option for getting surround sound in games. It has the least compatibility problems, and unlike it Dolby Digital and DTS it's not lossly compressed so the sound quality will actually be higher.
/\
Read that link.

Also taken quote below from that link:
\/

Audio Connection Types

Analog
The analog connection is probably the most common way to connect speakers to a computer. If you have connected speakers or headphones to the green 3.5 mm jack on your computer, you have used an analog connection. Most computers will have a 3.5 mm jack for analog connections.

Figure 7. A stereo analog connection with a microphone input.

Figure 8. An 8-channel (7.1) analog connection with a microphone input.
If you have the stereo connection shown in Figure 7, you will be strictly limited to analog stereo, but if you have the 8-channel or 6-channel connection shown in Figure 8, then you will have the ability to use surround sound via an analog connection.

• Consider this:
• If you connect stereo headphones to a single stereo 3.5 mm connection, you may be able to get virtual surround sound from games that have proper virtual surround sound processing such as Dolby Atmos for headphones.
• If you have a home theater receiver with direct analog inputs, you can purchase 3.5 mm to RCA cables from sites like Monoprice.
• Analog is the most compatible audio output method, if you are experiencing issues with a game not playing audio or not playing audio in surround, try an analog connection.

SPDIF (Digital Optical or Digital Coax)

An SPDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interface Format) connection is typically either a coax (RCA) or an optical connection. On most PC audio devices, the digital coax will be orange.

Figure 9. Coaxial and optical SPDIF connections.
SPDIF is capable of outputting either stereo PCM (uncompressed) audio or Dolby or DTS encoded (compressed) 5.1 audio. I do not recommend using SPDIF unless that is your only option.

1. There are TWO methods for getting discrete 5.1 surround sound through SPDIF:
2. If a movie has a Dolby or DTS audio track, it can be streamed to a receiver in 5.1 through an SPDIF cable.
3. For games, your computer will need software that encodes the game's audio into Dolby or DTS 5.1 format; some computer sound devices include support for Dolby or DTS encoding, you will want to look for either Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect in your sound device settings. And this is where I think most of you are not understanding what it is I trying to say between TRUE PC DD DTS Gaming through DDL/DTSC through a SPDIF connection! YES IF the GAME for the PC supports DD or DTS, which again is not many, Star Wars Squadrons is one example of a game that is Native DD/DTS Capable this goes for new and OLD games made, where then the audio card, and the Computer will send a REAL surround signal, but no HIGHER then 5.1, so if ur set up is 7/9/.1/.2 you have to have ur amp fake the others, or go without. If you have but volume rockers with in that games audio settings, then chances are that it is 99% NOT a DD or DTS audio track it is sending to your audio card and windows is picking up as 2.0 only, and Live is faking its surround and telling your receiving end to go "I guess it goes here, to this speaker. I am getting a Real DD signal, so it must be", and it you had side by side in Digital vs Analog, then you will see why it is I am so anal when playing anything off my pc no matter what it is, Im given more freedom with what I want to do with what it is I am playing over a analog output, then Digital, or HDMI could ever dream of, and I just have to keep it all on one setting for everything, in a 7.1 configuration. If the game is NOT codded in DD or DTS audio track, then the PC will see it ONLY as 2.0, you selected a ENHAnCEMENT for said game in audio driver, which will then figure out what to do with it, and send a DD signal to your receiver to pick up as real DD when its not at the source.

HDMI
I don't think I need to post a picture of what HDMI looks like.

I would say that the best feature of HDMI is its expanded audio capabilities and its ability to improve; it is the successor of SPDIF and it can carry 7.1 PCM; no need for Dolby or DTS encoding. I have read that some games, namely those that use Audiokinetic Wwise, seem to have issues with HDMI audio connections, so this may be a reason to stick with analog or at least have the analog option available when a game does not function correctly with HDMI.

HDMI typically needs to be activated by an HDCP-compliant device on the other end (such as a TV or computer monitor) but you may be able to use an HDMI splitter (check eBay) to get HDMI to activate without connecting a monitor to the other end.

 

[Ferather]

Sorry I have ADHD and my brain keeps turning off with your posts, hehe. Ultimately if you get want you want, then that's all you need. If we are talking lossless that's another subject.
In the games I play I never see any sort of DTS-DDL options, just select default device and how many speakers to use. Cant say I have had any issues.

----

Forgot to mention, the best upmixer in town is E-APO, even with YouTube, you can set it to upmix it, YouTube outputs 6 channels put populates only 2.

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/equaliser-apo-stereo-surround-upmixer.276608/post-4425663
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/equaliser-apo-stereo-surround-upmixer.276608/post-4434448

 

[Ferather]

DTS Interactive for almost any driver, requires testing, comes with readme for a guide. Let me know if I need to change something.

DTS Interactive

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

Edit: If you want to upmix stereo use E-APO, see above.

 

[filter4ever]

Here's what I'm running: https://www.mediafire.com/file/h6yarhqebj0o491/RealtekDriver_2019.rar/file

I have an MSI z87-GD65 (found it at the dump actually) - and it's got a Realtek HD. I don't know how this patch works - will it let me patch my original (MSI) drivers so I can use the 5.1 (AC3 and DTS) output?

I haven't installed any games yet - my friend played 5.1 games and had a Harmon Kardon receiver. This was back in the day - which required him to get an "Asus 'Xonar'" card that encoded the 6 channels to AC3. Do these drivers do this via software?

The drivers I installed were apparently gathered from HP and Dell packages - but work like a charm on my MSI Z87-GD65 found down at the dump. DTS, Dolby and some Soundblaster Stuff. Also doesn't require me to disable driver signature, I believe I was able to install on top of the stock MSI driver but I don't really remember.

Does this patch let me use my stock MSI driver to get DTS and Dolby?

 

[Jgr9]

If you already have working access to DTS / Dolby, then I wouldn't install anything from here. You might try things if you can't get those, but it sounds like you do have them.

 

[tisusbr]

Good Morning. I always read and reread this forum. In search of many solutions. And now I need some help. I would like to know if it is possible for me to get dolby pro logic II on my realtec alc 1220 soundcard.

 

[mkanet]

Good Morning. I always read and reread this forum. In search of many solutions. And now I need some help. I would like to know if it is possible for me to get dolby pro logic II on my realtec alc 1220 soundcard.

Check out my post below. It shows you were to get the latest unlocked drivers that doesn't require using registry editor or any kind of hacking. It will enable Dolby pro logic II and allow 5.1 DTS & 5.1 DDL over SPDIF.

Unlocked Realtek HD Audio Drivers for Windows 10 (Dolby Digital Live/DTS Interactive)

Ok I have managed to make it work with the R2.72 in Windows Fall Update and ALC1150 on ASUS Z170. You follow the classic procedure by disabling Driver Signature and adding the registry value. All DTS interactive, Dolby Digital and Prologic enabled. You can find the driver here...

www.techpowerup.com

 

[tisusbr]

Let me give you some information. I don't have any external decoder. My sound system is completely pre powered speakers. I'm trying to use dolby pro logic II decoder straight from realtek. To be honest, I don't even know if this is possible.

I tried to install unlocked drives. And I used the path to unlock. But I don't have access to the normal gigabity interface. More on the windows 10 sound panel. I have the option to enable dolby pro logic II. But it doesn't work. A silly question. in this case this function would be to decode the signal to the soundcard outputs. or decode to the external receiver. ?

 

[mkanet]

Let me give you some information. I don't have any external decoder. My sound system is completely pre powered speakers. I'm trying to use dolby pro logic II decoder straight from realtek. To be honest, I don't even know if this is possible.

I tried to install unlocked drives. And I used the path to unlock. But I don't have access to the normal gigabity interface. More on the windows 10 sound panel. I have the option to enable dolby pro logic II. But it doesn't work. A silly question. in this case this function would be to decode the signal to the soundcard outputs. or decode to the external receiver. ?

Hmm.. I wish I knew the answer. I only have experience with using an external decoder; expecting multichannel DTS encoded audio over SPDIF. The unlocked drivers I'm using unlocks the DTS and DDL encoders. The Dolby Prologic II audio is also enabled for stereo sources as a bonus. However, I'm not sure if it supposed to also work without an external decoder. Maybe someone else here might know.

 

[funboy6942]

Let me give you some information. I don't have any external decoder. My sound system is completely pre powered speakers. I'm trying to use dolby pro logic II decoder straight from realtek. To be honest, I don't even know if this is possible.

I tried to install unlocked drives. And I used the path to unlock. But I don't have access to the normal gigabity interface. More on the windows 10 sound panel. I have the option to enable dolby pro logic II. But it doesn't work. A silly question. in this case this function would be to decode the signal to the soundcard outputs. or decode to the external receiver. ?

You need a receiver with the ability to decode and process the 2ch audio thats been "encoded" with PLII that the receiver can decode and send to the appropriate speakers. Desktop speakers will do nothing more then stereo, or "mono" from both, but no matter how much you try and do something within windows, or realtek, or use these moded drivers, without a even old ass receiver hooked up from goodwill or ebay, or something like a Logitech Z5500 speaker set up, regular old speakers, ones that have pretty much no pod, and not labeled as DD, DTS, DD PLII, just hook up a cable to ur PC with a vol knob, it will NEVER produce anything but whats given by the source in anything but stereo/mono without the help of a decoding receiver of some sorts. So you may be able to enable it, but without being able to properly decode it with the appropriate speaker/receiver set up to decode it, it will never work I am afraid.

Also to use DDPLII even on a receiver, you will need all 5 channels, and add the .1 (sub) to it to get deep bass. You can never even get the DDPLII sound from a receiver with the decode not in it, for if you just hook 2 speakers to it, it will not be enough for the PLII "experience", you will need 5, for DDPLII is just pretty much trickery, taking the "stereo" signal, and decoding it in a way it sends the "rear" stuff to the back, and center to center, not a full on true surround like DD or DTS, and DDPL, then DDPLII, was the start of the surround forms for home theater, the other dedicated, true separated stuff all came later.

And if anyone wants to see how the achieved the fake rear surround, its not 100% correct, but as a small child I used to mess with electronics, and now I fix them, and been for several years (now 50), but for fun, take the + from left and + from right and put them to a speaker (not really sure if this can be done now a days, but as a kid it did), but in doing so, you will get something lik the guitar in a song, or piano playing, and then other stuff goes missing, like vocals and such, really weird, how 2 positives from right and left to a speaker cancels out stuff from a recording, but then leaves other stuff there to be heard